1999 Interstate Exhaust Removal Tools

[charliescarface]

I'm sure it's buried in the forums but I've only found one viable solution so pardon the duplication if this is one.

I can use standard 1/4" drive tools including swivel to remove all but two of the exhaust bolts on the right side. The angles using the swivel don't work on these and a standard open end wrench is not  getting to them either. What tool(s) can I use to reliably remove and install these hard to get to nuts? Thanks in advance.

[Bighead]

1/4" swivel is what I use.
Remove the spacer that is for the engine guard. 12 mm bolt I think.

[charliescarface]

Bighead - Thanks for replying. I've removed the spacer and tried to use the 1/4" swivel. There is inadequate clearance for the 10 mm socket/swivel next to the pipe. The front nut is in a particularly tight space. There has to be some sort of offset tool I'm not aware of.

[hubcapsc]

I use this snapon wrench...



-Mike

[MarkT]

The only wrench I've found that always works is a long handle 12 pnt box end 10mm with one side ground thin on #5 back nut.  Sometimes other specialty tools will work but there are clearance variances from bike to bike.  The only real troublemaker is the back nut on #5. All of them on the left side can be turned with a 10mm swivel socket and medium extension in 1/4" drive.  I've turned a 10mm socket down so it's walls are very thin and drive it with a wobble-drive extension - that will get the hard to reach back ones on the right side, #'s 1 & 3.

[old2soon]

I have a thin 6 point 10 MM socket in 1/4" drive and when I git my jaw set right and throw out a few proper cuss words seems to go purty good on my I/S. RIDE SAFE.

[charliescarface]

All look like good options to consider. I just came across "thin wall sockets." I'd never heard of them. Does anyone have any experience with those attacking the hard to reach Valkyrie exhaust nut problem?

[da prez]

  I bought a set of Astro tool 1/4 inch swivel(?) sockets from an auto supply house. I have removed many and do not remember any real problems. I have wrenched most of my life , so sometimes I just do not think about the problems , I just do the repairs.  The thin wall sockets will remove the nuts as the proper torque is low. The real problem is rust . Lube with WD40 or your favorite penetrant. Wait a while and then go for it. Loosen all before removing any. If you run into a problem , then you decide to continue or stop. I also tie or block the exhaust in place for safety. Good luck and take your time.

                                 da prez

[hubcapsc]

All look like good options to consider. I just came across "thin wall sockets." I'd never heard of them. Does anyone have any experience with those attacking the hard to reach Valkyrie exhaust nut problem?

That MarkT fellow has probably taken off and put back on more exhausts than all the
other VRCC members put together. Or maybe he just receives them in the mail, ida know  ...
You've gotten a lot of probably-good (and different) advice.

Anywho... that curved wrench in the picture I posted allows me to easily get
to the hard-to-reach exhaust nuts every time... it was $20 from the snap-on truck
when I got it 20 years ago, is probably still less than $500  ...

-Mike

[The emperor has no clothes]

All look like good options to consider. I just came across "thin wall sockets." I'd never heard of them. Does anyone have any experience with those attacking the hard to reach Valkyrie exhaust nut problem?

That MarkT fellow has probably taken off and put back on more exhausts than all the
other VRCC members put together. Or maybe he just receives them in the mail, ida know  ...
You've gotten a lot of probably-good (and different) advice.

Anywho... that curved wrench in the picture I posted allows me to easily get
to the hard-to-reach exhaust nuts every time... it was $20 from the snap-on truck
when I got it 20 years ago, is probably still less than $500  ...

-Mike

[charliescarface]

Thanks Mike - I re-read MarkT's post again and then looked up "wobble head extension," another tool I did not know about. I'll be sourcing the curved wrench you reference, the wobble head extension and a thin-walled socket.

[gordonv]

I had been able o get those hard back ones every time with an open end wrench. Takes forever since you can only move it a few degrees, flip the wrench, and again.

I've had studs loosen from the head, instead of the nut off, and had to use heat later to remove the nut from the stud.

Then for all the studs that came out, and all the studs still in, I run them in/out, nuts on/off, with anti seize and a nut driver, to clean the threads up.

[houstone]

Harbor Freight has a set of wobble extensions that I love!  Great for occasional issues like these.
Good luck!

[Bagger John - #3785]

1/4"dr 6-pt 10mm standard-length socket, a couple of different extensions of various lengths, a ratchet and a 12pt 10mm combination wrench are all I've ever needed to remove or install the header nuts on these bikes.

[old2soon]

Harbor Freight has a set of wobble extensions that I love!  Great for occasional issues like these.
Good luck!

                 H/F had a complete-1/4 3/8 1/2-set on sale with lotsa different lengths and that set now lives in my tool box. Put the socket yer gonna use on the wobble head. RIDE SAFE.

[CleoBen]

2000 I/S, Cobra 6 into 6 exhaust.

I don't know if there is anything different on the Cobra manifolds?  I can't think of any way for applying torque to the three inboard exhaust nuts on the right side?  All three have one or more exhaust manifold pipes blocking nearly all access to the nuts.  With the Cobras and new gaskets, the best I can do is maybe one or two threads by hand to get them started.  A wobble extension only reaches the #1 nuts.  The #3 and #5 are blocked by pipes.

For those using the curved box end wrench, are you tightening the inner nuts as much as possible, then torquing the outer nuts to spec?

Thanks in advance,
CB

[hubcapsc]

For those using the curved box end wrench, are you tightening the inner nuts as much as possible, then torquing the outer nuts to spec?

I'd just snug the nuts down, and recheck/retighten them after each ride until they seem to
settle down, especially if you're using the OEM hollow copper gaskets...

-Mike

[CleoBen]

I'd just snug the nuts down, and recheck/retighten them after each ride until they seem to
settle down, especially if you're using the OEM hollow copper gaskets...

-Mike

I'm using the e-bay gaskets mentioned in this thread:  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,102071.0.html

CB

[9Ball]

It’s been ages for me, but I seem to remember using the open end wrench and sockets with two universal joints for several of the header nuts.

MarkT is the expert...

[CleoBen]

I ended up using the stubby wobble extension combined with the longest one and was able to manipulate into place to apply a reasonably consistent torque to all 12. I’ll keep checking them til they settle in. 

Fired it up last night and it roared back to life!  Sweetest sound ever!

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions,

CB

[Chrisj CMA]

2000 I/S, Cobra 6 into 6 exhaust.

I don't know if there is anything different on the Cobra manifolds?  I can't think of any way for applying torque to the three inboard exhaust nuts on the right side?  All three have one or more exhaust manifold pipes blocking nearly all access to the nuts.  With the Cobras and new gaskets, the best I can do is maybe one or two threads by hand to get them started.  A wobble extension only reaches the #1 nuts.  The #3 and #5 are blocked by pipes.

For those using the curved box end wrench, are you tightening the inner nuts as much as possible, then torquing the outer nuts to spec?

Thanks in advance,
CB

Torquing to spec?  Ah nope not on header nuts.  Snug them up and call it good.  When using new gaskets I snug them, wait a few minutes and snug again.  I do this maybe 3 or 4 times before the first ride.  Check them often until the gaskets are all the way compressed.  Any "torquing to specs" before this point is pointless.  After this many snuggings you have the "feel" of what tight enough is, now you simply dont need the torque wrench for the header nuts.