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sdv003
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« Reply #40 on: December 09, 2017, 09:57:38 AM » |
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All 6 carbs have enough fuel to get a decent stream when I open the drain screws. The flow was the same as it was before I started the bike, so I would say that I have fuel.
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sdv003
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« Reply #41 on: December 15, 2017, 07:26:34 PM » |
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An update:
I removed the Dan-Marc and have just the fuel line from the tank to the carbs. No kinks, uphill runs, filters or any of the other fuel line things to watch out for. And apparently, no spark, even when cold now. Waiting for my peak voltage adapter to see if I can figure out which part is bad.
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sdv003
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« Reply #42 on: December 16, 2017, 03:38:10 PM » |
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Another update:
I received the peak voltage adapter. The pickups test fine. I get 12V at the coil with the ignition on, but nothing more than that when I crank it. The troubleshooting guide says that's a faulty ICM. Is there any other way to test the ICM short of putting it in a known working bike?
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #43 on: December 16, 2017, 04:21:49 PM » |
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Another update:
I received the peak voltage adapter. The pickups test fine. I get 12V at the coil with the ignition on, but nothing more than that when I crank it. The troubleshooting guide says that's a faulty ICM. Is there any other way to test the ICM short of putting it in a known working bike?
Not that I'm aware of. I had a Honda CM400 that went thru a couple of CDI units. Now that I think about it, the first one that went south had the same symptoms as yours. Sam, I'd be willing to let you borrow the one from my standard to see if it solved your problem. Instead of buying one first without knowing if it was the issue. I've got tomorrow off and can get it in the mail Monday. If so, PM me your address.  |
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sdv003
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« Reply #44 on: December 16, 2017, 05:36:43 PM » |
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Sent an email.
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Lyonardo
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« Reply #46 on: December 16, 2017, 10:36:53 PM » |
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Did you check the tightness of your battery cables?
Last year I had similar issues: intermittently bike would crank and crank but not start.
Finally, it died on me briefly after standing the bike up, but started on next try.
I started to remove the battery to test it, but noticed the screw was just slightly loose.
Tightened both posts and never had the issue again.
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sdv003
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« Reply #47 on: December 17, 2017, 04:14:04 PM » |
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Just went and checked, and they are tight.
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sdv003
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« Reply #48 on: December 21, 2017, 07:25:30 PM » |
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Got another ICM and... nothing. No spark. I have fuel, the plugs are wet after cranking it for testing. I went back through the test sequence on 17-3 of the service manual:
Initial primary coil voltage is normal, it drops to 9.something when its cranking. I get no peak voltage above the initial voltage.
- Battery is new and charged
- Peak voltage adapter is working fine, as far as I can tell.
- Peak voltage adapter connections seem fine (I show initial voltage just fine)
- I have voltage at the power source wire (Bl/W) at the ICM connector
- I have continuity between the G wire at the ICM connector and chassis ground
- I have continuity between the ICM connector and the coils on the Y/xx wires
- I'm assuming the kickstand switch and neutral switch are working correctly. Indicator lights are doing what they should do.
- Ignition pulse generators show 3.something volts peak
- I've put a known working ICM into the bike
The only thing I haven't done is checked for a short in a coil, that's this weekend. Would one shorted coil cause no spark anywhere? Anyone got any other ideas? I'll even take crazy ones at this point.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #49 on: December 21, 2017, 07:56:44 PM » |
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Damn, I was hoping that would work. I wish I knew where to look next. But I'm at a loss. I don't think one bad coil would cause loss of spark for the others. I don't remember if you have already went over this. But I remember some having issues with a good ground connection on the engine. I think some even had to change the location of the ground.
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sdv003
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« Reply #50 on: December 21, 2017, 08:02:56 PM » |
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I was very disappointed when it didnt fire. I think the engine ground is good. It looks like the day it rolled off the showroom and the difference in voltage between V+ and V- at the battery is exactly the same as V+ and the engine. I'll test V+ and the ground wire at the ICM connector tomorrow, just to be sure.
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Bone
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« Reply #51 on: December 22, 2017, 01:47:24 AM » |
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I have no idea where to go next. Why not test these ? - I'm assuming the kickstand switch and neutral switch are working correctly. |
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sdv003
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« Reply #52 on: December 22, 2017, 05:49:41 PM » |
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No real reason not to test them, other than my deep dark depression over the whole situation. I'll add it to testing the coils for a short.
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #53 on: December 22, 2017, 08:22:31 PM » |
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Initial primary coil voltage is normal, it drops to 9.something when its cranking.
Does this seem low to anyone else? |
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing   |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #54 on: December 23, 2017, 01:42:23 AM » |
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Initial primary coil voltage is normal, it drops to 9.something when its cranking.
Does this seem low to anyone else? It does. I completely overlooked that. Other than a defective battery, any ideas what could cause this ? |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #55 on: December 23, 2017, 02:03:40 AM » |
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Got another ICM and... nothing. No spark. I have fuel, the plugs are wet after cranking it for testing. I went back through the test sequence on 17-3 of the service manual:
Initial primary coil voltage is normal, it drops to 9.something when its cranking. I get no peak voltage above the initial voltage.
- Battery is new and charged
- Peak voltage adapter is working fine, as far as I can tell.
- Peak voltage adapter connections seem fine (I show initial voltage just fine)
- I have voltage at the power source wire (Bl/W) at the ICM connector
- I have continuity between the G wire at the ICM connector and chassis ground
- I have continuity between the ICM connector and the coils on the Y/xx wires
- I'm assuming the kickstand switch and neutral switch are working correctly. Indicator lights are doing what they should do.
- Ignition pulse generators show 3.something volts peak
- I've put a known working ICM into the bike
The only thing I haven't done is checked for a short in a coil, that's this weekend. Would one shorted coil cause no spark anywhere? Anyone got any other ideas? I'll even take crazy ones at this point.
Hi, Sam. Even though the battery is new it's possible you got a dud. I'd try jumping from your car and see what you get. |
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Valkpilot
Member
Posts: 2151
What does the data say?
Corinth, Texas
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« Reply #56 on: December 23, 2017, 09:01:04 AM » |
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Initial primary coil voltage is normal, it drops to 9.something when its cranking.
Does this seem low to anyone else? It does. I completely overlooked that. Other than a defective battery, any ideas what could cause this ? Other than the battery, my thought would b loose or dirty connections, especially the grounds. Measuring voltage at the battery terminals while cranking should eliminate the battery itself. Even better, take the new battery to an auto parts store and have it load tested. |
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VRCC #19757 IBA #44686 1998 Black Standard 2007 Goldwing |
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sdv003
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« Reply #57 on: December 25, 2017, 08:49:27 PM » |
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Just finished spending the weekend working on the girl. Battery tested fine, but I think it wasn't fully charged after all my cranking. Replaced the battery tender and got it charged. I also opened up every connection I could get my hands on and checked the pins and crimps and cleaned the contacts. I found a few that I would call suspect, but nothing burned or obviously wrong. Sanded and thoroughly cleaned up the battery terminals and ground connections. The worst one was underside of the negative battery cable and it did seem to have some sort of corrosion buildup on it.
And she fired! Rode around the neighborhood and she was good. Had to let it idle in the garage to get the fan to come on. Survived two fan cycles without an issue. Turned it off and let it set a few minutes. She fired back up without a problem. Tomorrow is the big test, I'm going to ride her to work.
Thanks to all of you for your ideas, and thanks to those that kept stressing grounding.
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Lyonardo
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« Reply #58 on: December 27, 2017, 03:58:04 AM » |
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Great news! Reminds me to go connect my own battery tender. I thought it would be something like this. Symptoms were just too similar to the battery connector issues I had last year. Just finished spending the weekend working on the girl. Battery tested fine, but I think it wasn't fully charged after all my cranking. Replaced the battery tender and got it charged. I also opened up every connection I could get my hands on and checked the pins and crimps and cleaned the contacts. I found a few that I would call suspect, but nothing burned or obviously wrong. Sanded and thoroughly cleaned up the battery terminals and ground connections. The worst one was underside of the negative battery cable and it did seem to have some sort of corrosion buildup on it.
And she fired! Rode around the neighborhood and she was good. Had to let it idle in the garage to get the fan to come on. Survived two fan cycles without an issue. Turned it off and let it set a few minutes. She fired back up without a problem. Tomorrow is the big test, I'm going to ride her to work.
Thanks to all of you for your ideas, and thanks to those that kept stressing grounding.
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