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Author Topic: Have fuel, and spark and it spins over, but wont start  (Read 2175 times)
Roidfingers
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Posts: 729


Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« on: December 21, 2017, 01:19:17 PM »

Had to pull motor and fix hydrolock. Not that bad of a job really. Got everything back together. Minus some smog metal. Have plenty of battery. Also used a jumper on it when it started to slow down. Had pulled and cleaned carbs and jets with new float needles. Fuel in bowls. No tank on yet. Just doing gravity feed through a container to fuel line. Have spark verified at all six. Spins great but no start. Any ideas????
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signart
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Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2017, 01:44:42 PM »

Did you "bleed" fuel from all the bowls? Sometime hard to fill bowls from gravity only.
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2017, 02:07:13 PM »

Yes I bleed fuel from all bowl.

Can your timing jump when hydrolocked and cause this issue?
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Grandpot
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Posts: 630


Rolling Thunder South Carolina Chapter 1

Fort Mill, South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: December 21, 2017, 03:50:58 PM »

Are the spark plugs wet.  If they are not, the gas is not getting past the carbs.  If the are wet, did you remove the timing belts and not get the timing correct?
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crazy2 Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it.crazy2
oldsmokey
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Posts: 354

Mendon Massachusetts


« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2017, 04:14:33 PM »

Try a little priming action. Wet the cylinders or a little carb spray through intake and crank it over.
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2017, 04:15:52 PM »

Yes I bleed fuel from all bowl.

Can your timing jump when hydrolocked and cause this issue?

I don't think that would be possible. What smog metal are you referring to ?
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2017, 04:17:16 PM »

Yes I agree, how do you know you're getting fuel in there? I imagine you're getting spark unless something was assembled incorrectly so then it sounds like a fuel issue.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Roidfingers
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Posts: 729


Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #7 on: December 21, 2017, 04:43:20 PM »

Yes I agree, how do you know you're getting fuel in there? I imagine you're getting spark unless something was assembled incorrectly so then it sounds like a fuel issue.

I checked the drain screws
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2017, 04:45:05 PM »

Try a little priming action. Wet the cylinders or a little carb spray through intake and crank it over.

Pulled air box and sprayed starting fluid. No help
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #9 on: December 21, 2017, 04:46:27 PM »

Yes I bleed fuel from all bowl.

Can your timing jump when hydrolocked and cause this issue?

I don't think that would be possible. What smog metal are you referring to ?

reed valves did desmog.
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #10 on: December 21, 2017, 04:47:47 PM »

Did you "bleed" fuel from all the bowls? Sometime hard to fill bowls from gravity only.

Is not our system gravity feed already?
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John Schmidt
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a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #11 on: December 21, 2017, 04:58:41 PM »

Did you perchance remove the center cover under the seat....the piece where the seat lock is located? Wondering if you might have done something with the "tip over" doodad on the back of it. Just fishing!  Wink
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #12 on: December 21, 2017, 05:00:36 PM »

Did you perchance remove the center cover under the seat....the piece where the seat lock is located? Wondering if you might have done something with the "tip over" doodad on the back of it. Just fishing!  Wink

yes we did. And tip over was installed correctly. Other wise it wouldn't turn over at all right?
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #13 on: December 21, 2017, 05:02:20 PM »

Would air cut valves make a difference. I wouldn't think so. All carbs at same time?
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da prez
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. Rhinelander Wi. Island Lake Il.


« Reply #14 on: December 21, 2017, 05:40:55 PM »

 If you have fuel and spark , do you have compression. If it was in my shop , I would start over and recheck as if a customer brought it in with a no start. If starting fluid will not kick it , then I would think it to be a compression issue.

                                                     da prez
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #15 on: December 21, 2017, 06:06:40 PM »

If you have fuel and spark , do you have compression. If it was in my shop , I would start over and recheck as if a customer brought it in with a no start. If starting fluid will not kick it , then I would think it to be a compression issue.

                                                     da prez

Ok. I have a compression tool. What should I read? And this can be a problem on all 6? 98 std 10,000

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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #16 on: December 21, 2017, 07:09:23 PM »

Some one said if you turn the engine by hand, front bolt. It can get out 180 degrees. But if belts are sitll on, does that make a difference? so what are you setting?

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signart
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Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #17 on: December 21, 2017, 07:19:15 PM »

Did you "bleed" fuel from all the bowls? Sometime hard to fill bowls from gravity only.

Is not our system gravity feed already?
It's gravity fed, once it has fuel in the bowls, but it takes a lot of cranking to get the fuel to fill the bowls. Opening the drain screws would help, and assure the fuel reaches all the bowls.
As mentioned above, the plugs should be wet after much cranking. Then you have to be concerned about flooding. Also make sure you have plenty of cranking power from the battery. At this point I would be jumping with a car battery.
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #18 on: December 21, 2017, 07:54:14 PM »

Did you "bleed" fuel from all the bowls? Sometime hard to fill bowls from gravity only.

Is not our system gravity feed already?
It's gravity fed, once it has fuel in the bowls, but it takes a lot of cranking to get the fuel to fill the bowls. Opening the drain screws would help, and assure the fuel reaches all the bowls.
As mentioned above, the plugs should be wet after much cranking. Then you have to be concerned about flooding. Also make sure you have plenty of cranking power from the battery. At this point I would be jumping with a car battery.

Have to read entire post. Fuel is in all bowls. Cranking is good.
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Toovalks
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East Lansing,Michigan


« Reply #19 on: December 22, 2017, 12:11:22 AM »

Is it possible that ,since there are three ignition coils ,the coils are wired wrong and not firing the appropriate cylinders..???.. that would leave you with wet plugs and no go.
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #20 on: December 22, 2017, 07:14:14 AM »

Some one said if you turn the engine by hand, front bolt. It can get out 180 degrees. But if belts are sitll on, does that make a difference? so what are you setting?


No difference. 180 degree out is easy to do. If #1 is out, they will all be out.... equals no start. Set T1.2 on mark and make sure #1 is TDC on compression stroke. Easy check.

But belts were never touched. So it should still be right, correct?
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Hook#3287
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Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #21 on: December 22, 2017, 07:51:26 AM »

I don't see where you answered if the plugs where wet or not after cranking.

If you did, sorry for repeat.

If not, gas is not getting pass carbs, as you state there's gas in all bowls.

This is out of left field, but, when you pulled the intakes, did you stuff anything in the ports?

It's happened.
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WintrSol
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Florissant, MO


« Reply #22 on: December 22, 2017, 07:57:55 AM »

A compression test, cold, I would expect more than 100psi, probably 130 or more. Make sure the throttles are locked all the way open, too. I haven't tried a cold compression test on this engine, but my old 450 made about 140psi cold, and lots more when hot.
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Lyle Laun
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Calgary, Ab


« Reply #23 on: December 22, 2017, 02:14:50 PM »

Did you run down John Schmidt's suggestion on the tip over switch ? I think that it will turn over but not start when the switch is tripped.

Lyle...
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Get out & Ride !!
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Hook#3287
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Posts: 6436


Brimfield, Ma


« Reply #24 on: December 22, 2017, 02:24:19 PM »

He's got spark, so it can't be the bank angle system.

I believe the motor will not turn over if the switch is not in the correct position.

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Firefighter
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Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #25 on: December 22, 2017, 04:43:39 PM »

Not much, but the engine had been running recently before the hydrolock? It is good GAS that you are feeding her?
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2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
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Roidfingers
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Posts: 729


Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #26 on: December 22, 2017, 05:22:52 PM »

Thank you for all the info. So I had rebuilt the carbs. And pulled the motor and fixed the broken gears. reinstalled motor, carb bank etc.... Bike only 10,000 on it, for a friend. Well he is telling me all this info, and I'm like. don't make sense. If has fuel, fire and air. Whats up?? So I go back over there and watch it crank. ...... LOL gas pouring out right exhaust. I tell him stop !!!!!. Gotta pull carb bank again. No biggy. Pull airbox intakes etc.... Carbs again and open them up. Didn't find anything wrong. But i'm assuming, something was keeping #5 float needle open. So when the fuel went in, it went to 5 and pored straight through. So  not enough was getting to the others. He had gas coming out hole in exhaust.???? So she wouldn't crank. I pulled it all again, blew everything out reinstalled and she fired right up. I love these bikes. They are so easy to work on. Don't want no fuel injection stuff. LOL really.
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #27 on: December 23, 2017, 07:36:09 AM »

Well that's why so many of us were insisting it was a fuel issue. With what happened on cylinder number 5 I hope it won't hydrolock again
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #28 on: December 23, 2017, 04:53:43 PM »

I'm glad you solved the problem. But it made me think what caused the hydrolock in the first place? Is the petcock working properly? You or your friend might want to make sure it's actually shutting off fuel in the off position, otherwise it may hydrolock again. Just my 1.5 cents.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Jruby38
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Posts: 237

Oxford Mass.


« Reply #29 on: December 23, 2017, 05:22:18 PM »

I'm glad I crap caned the OEM POS at the first leak and installed a Pingle shut off 15 years and 100k miles ago,  instead of dealing with this Hydrolock PIA.
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Roidfingers
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Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #30 on: December 23, 2017, 05:31:06 PM »

Yes he bot a new cover set. PO before him hydrolocked at 10,000 miles. Crazy.  Must have let it sit for a very long time. Got the dan-marc 121, or something like that. Carbs have been gone through, all is good now.
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Roidfingers
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Posts: 729


Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #31 on: December 23, 2017, 05:33:30 PM »

What John said,  that tip over sensor,
I've read more than a few posts where
Valkyrie owners have installed it upside down.  

Just sayin  Anyone post a pic of the sensor installed correctly so we can see  or can the OP post a pic or 2

Oss I think it has it on it, This side up. LOl if you get that wrong. Turn in ur wrench. LOL. Also it will not turn over with it wrong.
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