Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club

Hey guys, my 99 IS (69,000mis) is a bear to start when it gets cold. More often impossible. I have read other posts here and have tried a number of things with no luck.

EVERY orientation of the choke lever (yes the cable activates the assembly on both sides)

No throttle, little throttle, some throttle. (by the way, contrary to opinions I've read here, little works better than none)

Battery is recent and checks out strong (rated 220 CCA).

Brand new iridium plugs rated with correct gap (made no difference).

I am getting fuel. Bowls are full. (note:Pingel setup with Dan Marc solenoid).

Carbs recently synced with digisync.

Bike runs smooth and strong once she starts. Should I change spark plug wires next maybe?

I would ride year round if I could. Matter of fact, supposed to be 72 Sunday in VA. Why wouldn't I..?

Thanks for any help.

Try this, even if it sounds stoopid...

Go out and try to start it... four or five good stabs at the
starter button, no more. I use full choke...

Wait a few minutes...

Repeat, at least two or three times before you give up.

Mine usually starts easily, but on cold days I do as above
and it usually starts on the 2nd or 3rd go around...

-Mike

open your slow jet one more turn.

No disrespect intended, but are you sure the 'choke' is fully applied? I ask, because I didn't realize that you need to push it farther, once you feel it get hard to push. The parts were moving, just not all the way.

:cooldude: I owned my Standard for 6 months before I actually engaged the "choke" all the way.  :o it's stiffer than f*^k ! My I/S has always engaged much easier.

I got rid of that fool factory design and made my own choke lever setup. It's more positive, easy to use, and you're not going to break or stretch the cable from the handlebar down to the carbs. The first pic is construction in progress. The second is the completed unit. Been on there for years(12+) with no trouble or loss of function. If interested, I have another pic with drawings and dimensions, and can give a description of how to do it.

(https://i.postimg.cc/9Xv2Ddm5/Choke-construction.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Fs343Yzf/New-choke-operational.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)

What oil are you using. A straight weight oil will do what you describe. Any 10W synthetic oil will help an engine start in cold weather.

This^^^^
When it stops push it some more. I have seen them so hard to push you would think the lever would break,so try pushing it more.

You can look down at the tops of the carburetors and see the mechanism
move when you push the lever far enough...

-Mike

Just another thought
Depending on how cold you're talking about, the vacuum lines could be an issue or the Orings between the manifolds and head. The Rubber doesn't seal as good with lower temperatures.

A friend and I went on a two day ride a week ago.  My bike had to sit outside overnight. It was harder to start than normal. Normally she sleeps in the heated family room so I am used to easy starts in cold weather

I had that exact same problem. the colder it was, the harder it was to start. It finally got to where it wouldn't start in cold weather. I took the carbs off and gave them a thorough cleaning. I changed the bowl and intake gaskets. I also replace the needle valves. Thats all I did. Now it starts right up no matter how cold it is. It probably had some plugged passages in the carbs or had some vacuum leaks. Either way it fixed it.

            My I/S-currently near 130000 miles-cold weather start as follows-choke FULLY engaged no throttle clutch in mash the starter button 3 or 4 turns and she wakes up. She do NOT NO how NO way like any throttle applied til the choke brings the R P Ms up. And I replaced my spark plugs 4 or 5 years back. Carbs were didisynced 2 or 3 years ago. And Phatt Ghurl has been desmogged and the carb O-rings have been replaced. Couple year ago went on a Missouri Fall Color Ride. When I went out to her cave it was 15 degrees F. She argued but she started. RIDE SAFE.

My '97 has been a cold natured beast since new (had to use choke in any weather on first start up)but mever refused to start no matter how cold,she just didnt want to run until warmed a minute or two. Had Bob (aka Attic Rat) do his magic.....and dont even touch the enricher unless below 40 degrees. Even then she fires and runs quickly.

Thanks for all the suggestions. To answer a few..."yes, Im absolutely positive the choke is engaging when i press the lever. " I can see the cables evenly pulling the assemblies on both sides.  Carbs have been cleaned. Gonna try a few of the other suggestions and report back. Thanks again for all the input. You folks are awesome!

mixture screws set at 2.5 turns open. follow owners manual for cold weather starting. just choke, no throttle.

5w-40 Rotella t6

Screws were set at 2 1/4 out (I set them per svc man when carbs were removed and cleaned) I adjusted them to 2 1/2 turns out. Didn't seem to help. Would it make sense to go further?

Also, if I'm adjusting these I assume I should digi sync after?

I replaced all vac caps when I purchased the digisync. Feel like that wouldn't be a factor. I'm sure the o-ring are original and the intake boots. Maybe I'll order some and see.

I don't like the idea of cranking a bunch then waiting then cranking a bunch although I've tried that. Worried I'm gonna wear starter out.

mixture screws not affected by a sync which only affects the throttle plates.  2.5 turns out should be all u need.

is this a recent event hard starting?  make sure battery is providing minimum 10.5 volts while cranking. any lower and the ICM will not fire. 
were timing belts changed recently and where the ignition pickups moved? wrong position gap too large and signal will be too weak to fire plugs.
do u have the tech manual?

A small change to the pilot screws should make such a small change to the vacuum, the digisync probably couldn't measure it. It could, however, shift the idle rpm.

As far as cranking, you should never crank for more than about 30 seconds at a time, so the starter motor doesn't overheat. The brushes last a long time, but would be the first thing, normally, to wear out; I don't know, yet, how hard it is to change them, as I only have about 40k on the clock.

Hey CA, shes been hard to start when cold since ive had her. Battery is about 2yrs old. 12.9 ign off, 12.48 ign on, 11.3 cranking. Starts easy when warm out.

Havent replaced timing belts. Original as far as i know. Havent inspected them.

I have the Clymer manual. I dont have a honda manual.

I agree wintrsol, i never hold starter button for more than 10 seconds at a time. I figure if its not starting to fire by then, it isnt gonna.

One thing is with the cold weather, make sure the battery is tip top charged....

I'm in Detroit MI and I always have mine on a batt tender at the start of September....

The cold start wears the battery down quick and as most of us know if the battery gets to low it will crank the starter, but it won't have enough juice to start the bike... A few cranks might drop it enough to not start the motor.

I run 20w50 and it does make it harder to start, so i usually warm up the garage a bit by bringing in the car after running errands and park it in the garage and close the door... you'd be surprised how much a warm car will warm up a garage,, thats helps get the Ol' Girl warmed up.

Hope that helps.

B

clymer's good so I've read
free download http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html (http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html)

check clearance of the pickups at the trigger wheel. there were cases yrs ago with some being out of spec and causing hard starting.  if aftermarket TW some were bad with that.

Are you running an aftermarket trigger wheel by any chance? My bike had one on when I bought it and I chased cold starting issues for a while. Changed to a stock wheel and never a problem since.