electrical dilemma - running lights and a relay connected via accessory wires..

[gordorad]

Wiring is fun!!!

Another issue  arose yesterday.  Out riding and I lost my running lights and music.......When I installed my amp, I wired the remote start up for the amp to the relay for the running lights...(blue wire connected to pole 85 on the relay)....

Anywho, I've tested everything....It is presently hooked up pretty much like this....(exception 85 and 86 were reversed).




The switch for the running lights is a 3 prong.....the middle prong was connected to the relay with the blue wire to 85, and the other two wire, orange and green, i'm assuming were the original "accesory wires)...I traced them back to the right side cover, where they then run into a larger boot...  (I also reversed 85 and 86 as the diagram showed....but does it matter?)

Lights go to 87, and 86 grounded to battery and 30 to battery with an inline fuse.

87A is hot when tested with a meter (12volts)   The relay is getting power.  For some reason, it is not getting enough power to activate.

I tested the green accessory wire, and with they key on, it is registering about .05 volts.   Yesterday I examined the 5A accessory fuse, and it was blown.  Replaced it, thinking, ah ha, thats it!!  Nope, didn't correct it.  Strange this is??  I"m still getting .05 volts from the green with the 5a fuse out!!

After more thinking, does that green accessory wire send 12v???  I believe it should.  Is there another link in the chain??  If I'm only getting .05V, that must be the issue....

What is the purpose of the orange?  green?? 

What is the normal voltage for the green and orange??   With the fuse out, I checked the connections in the panel and it was receiving 12v on the right side of the fuse receptacle...

The 3 prong switch was working.....This was all done by the PO.  

Is the wiring OK??   All the inline fuses are correct.

I tried a new three pole (is that correct) switch....tried both combinations, as I don't know if it is a spdt etc..)  

I also tried a new relay......


When bypassing the relay, lights are working, amp is working....all are grounded.....I'm stumped!!  and when hooking 12v to the relay at 86, the relay is operating.....

So, I've determined the relay is not receiving enough voltage......when it was before.  Must be another fuse somewhere??

[salty1]

For what it's worth, I would put the driving lights on their own relay circuit.  ???  Obviously it worked, but  I would not be comfortable doubling up on one relay. 

[gordorad]

All I added was a rem wire to the amp.......very low draw....it merely sends a small current to the amp to switch it on.......

[shortleg]

  You said that your switch has three poles.
     The at tells me it maybe a lighted switch
with the green to the middle pole and hot in to switch and hot out to relay.
     I maybe wrong, would have to see switch.
           Shortleg[Dave]

[gordorad]

It was, at one time, an illuminated switch......

I've been digging for info on the accessory wires.....What do the green and orange represent??  Are they supposed to be 12v?

[olddog1946]

If you don't need that lighted switch, get rid of it and use a single pole single throw switch (on/off)
with 12 V into the switch to trigger your relay. 85 and 86 can't tell which has voltage and which has ground nor do they care..only that one side is grounded and the other has voltage. 30 to 87 passes the 12V out to the lights.

One terminal of the switch you have should have 12V coming in, if not, you need to trace it back til you find 12V.

[gordorad]

Ok, so the green accessory wire should be passing 12v??   as it is now, it only is showing about .05 on the meter.....with the key switched on....And when I start the cycle, it drops to nothing!!

[Valkpilot]

Ok, so the green accessory wire should be passing 12v??   as it is now, it only is showing about .05 on the meter.....with the key switched on....And when I start the cycle, it drops to nothing!!

In the accessory boot, the green wire is ground.  On the Standard/Tourer, Green/Red is +12V, switched from the ignition.  On the Interstate, White/Black is +12V, switched.

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage02.html

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage02i.html

[Ricky-D]

Since the electrical system on the Valkyrie is a 12 volt negative ground, every hot wire you should find will necessarily be 12 volts.

If you have a low volt reading on any wire you can be sure it is a bleeding source or the residual current from an existing component.   Which would also mean there could be a crossed wire if there is no blown fuses.

This would definitely mean to me that the present wiring configuration is improper and possibly harmful to the electrical system of the bike and could cause harm to other electrical components on the bike.

A lot of common sense and intuitive recognition is necessary when messing with the electrical systems on the bike and simply grabbing the most accessible wires to perform additional operations is not recommended.

***

[Kingbee]

Do you have an Interstate?  If so, you may be using the audio input connectors, or the push-to-talk connectors, in stead of the switched accessory connectors.

[gordorad]

Thanks for all the tips......

After pulling the wires, unplugging from the accessory boot,  and re-attaching it all is good!!

[salty1]

Gordo glad the wiring dilemma is over. FWIW, after cleaning the contact points I would use a little dielectric grease when putting them back together for maintenance of continuity.

[Bullgoose]

I have another dilemma. 97 Valk. Under the ride side cover, I have 7 wires.
Green
Blue
2 Yellow/green
2 Brown/white
Orange

Don't seem to have the switched green/red.

I really need to locate a switched wire somewhere. Headlight? Anywhere?
Thnx ???

[Madmike]

I have another dilemma. 97 Valk. Under the ride side cover, I have 7 wires.
Green
Blue
2 Yellow/green
2 Brown/white
Orange

Don't seem to have the switched green/red.

I really need to locate a switched wire somewhere. Headlight? Anywhere?
Thnx ???

they will be (really should) there somewhere - they are a small gage wire (16 or so)  and should have similar to a butt connector on teh end but it is clear and one end is open - maybe tucked back in the frame..... if the bike is new to you someone may have used them already???

[Madmike]

Wiring is fun!!!

Another issue  arose yesterday.  Out riding and I lost my running lights and music.......When I installed my amp, I wired the remote start up for the amp to the relay for the running lights...(blue wire connected to pole 85 on the relay)....

Anywho, I've tested everything....It is presently hooked up pretty much like this....(exception 85 and 86 were reversed).




The switch for the running lights is a 3 prong.....the middle prong was connected to the relay with the blue wire to 85, and the other two wire, orange and green, i'm assuming were the original "accesory wires)...I traced them back to the right side cover, where they then run into a larger boot...  (I also reversed 85 and 86 as the diagram showed....but does it matter?)

Lights go to 87, and 86 grounded to battery and 30 to battery with an inline fuse.

87A is hot when tested with a meter (12volts)   The relay is getting power.  For some reason, it is not getting enough power to activate.

I tested the green accessory wire, and with they key on, it is registering about .05 volts.   Yesterday I examined the 5A accessory fuse, and it was blown.  Replaced it, thinking, ah ha, thats it!!  Nope, didn't correct it.  Strange this is??  I"m still getting .05 volts from the green with the 5a fuse out!!

After more thinking, does that green accessory wire send 12v???  I believe it should.  Is there another link in the chain??  If I'm only getting .05V, that must be the issue....

What is the purpose of the orange?  green?? 

What is the normal voltage for the green and orange??   With the fuse out, I checked the connections in the panel and it was receiving 12v on the right side of the fuse receptacle...

The 3 prong switch was working.....This was all done by the PO.  

Is the wiring OK??   All the inline fuses are correct.

I tried a new three pole (is that correct) switch....tried both combinations, as I don't know if it is a spdt etc..)  

I also tried a new relay......


When bypassing the relay, lights are working, amp is working....all are grounded.....I'm stumped!!  and when hooking 12v to the relay at 86, the relay is operating.....

So, I've determined the relay is not receiving enough voltage......when it was before.  Must be another fuse somewhere??

sounds like you may have a 5 terminal relay not a 4 terminal as in the schematic.... if so there are two load terminals ... 87 and 87A... they change state when the relay is energised, one is normally open and the other is normally closed, with the relay control circuit unpowered you will have battery voltage going from terminal 30 to 87A and terminal 87 will be dead, when you power the control circuit it closes the connection between 30 and 87 and opens the circuit between 30 and 87A.  Not sure why you have an added switch to control the relay, the accessory wires could be hooked directly to terminals 85 and 86 and it would be keyed.  They may have added the switch so that the driving lights could be shut off for cranking, if this is the case then one of the two accessory wires could go to the switch and then from the switch to either terminal 85 or 86 and the other accessory wire would go to the other terminal.

The 3 connector switch could be one of several things, it could be a lighted switch as mentioned if that is tthe case then the light can usually be tied in to the accessory light circuit of a vehicle so that it comes on with the dash lights etc.  It could also be that from a center position you can throw the switch either way to two separate circuits or it could be momentary one side etc.

[Bullgoose]

Bought the Valk new in Feb.98. I pulled that part of the harness out of its clip and pulled the rubber cover back, so I can see all the wires coming out of the harness. There is no green/red wire...
but I know that I've used and aux. wire in the past, way in the past and can't  remember which one it is. I do have a BackOff installed right there. It's plugged into one of the connectors. BTW, all the connectors are hooked to something. None of them are vacant.
Shoulda studied electrical in my youth!

[hubcapsc]

Bought the Valk new in Feb.98. I pulled that part of the harness out of its clip and pulled the rubber cover back, so I can see all the wires coming out of the harness. There is no green/red wire...
but I know that I've used and aux. wire in the past, way in the past and can't  remember which one it is. I do have a BackOff installed right there. It's plugged into one of the connectors. BTW, all the connectors are hooked to something. None of them are vacant.
Shoulda studied electrical in my youth!

Here's a couple of pictures I searched up... different bikes look different under there,
perhaps yours looks different from these,  especially if there's been work done by a previous owner,
but that little cover with the two wires in it should be under there somewhere...





-Mike

[Ricky-D]

The accessory wires are singularly wrapped and will not be found inside the big boot.

You may have to probe more deeply to find them.

You can take out the battery and the box to get in back, behind all the clutter.

***

[Bullgoose]

Here's a pic of my wires.

[salty1]

Keep looking for two wires with female connectors with a black boot over them. The pictures above show what your looking for. Your picture shows the turn-brake wiring for the rear of the bike. Some where in that same area is where you should find the switchable accessory wire (green with red) and the ground wire (green) in the black boot. It's a 5amp circuit. 

[Bullgoose]

Well, egg on my face
They were behind all those wires/boot... hiding in a black boot.
Muchas Grassy Ass!