Checklist after buying used

[dwnorwood]

I'm back in the dragon's saddle again.  We previously owned a black '99 Interstate and loved it, but had to sell it for logistical reasons.  Fast-forward about 14 years.  We just bought another '99 Interstate, this time in green.  It needs a little work and, of course, I don't want to assume too much about the maintenance.  It has just over 35,000 miles on it. 

My checklist of things to check or do in no particular order...
- Inspect the front shocks for signs of leaks (found none)
- Try all lights and electronics (radio is hinky to tune but will use my bluetooth anyway)
- Check tires and pressure
- Oil change (it's clean but I don't know what they used)
- Check spark plugs and replace if needed.
- Run liquid Seafoam (or the other stuff you guys seem to like more) in the gas
- Grease the splines and change the oil in the final drive
- Clean or change air cleaner
- Replace original petcock valve with an electric one from Dan-Marc

What am I missing?

I already suspect I have a vacuum leak because it won't stay running, even when hot, without the choke partially engaged and it idles all over the tachometer at that (starts out at around 3500 rpms and settles down to near stall speed). So I'll just go ahead and do the desmog and expect to eliminate possilbe leaks along the way.  But Red Eye don't have the desmog kits on the Website anymore and I don't know where else to go.  Any other sources for a kit that provides a clean look would be appreciated.  Otherwise I'll have to do it old school with probably multiple trips to Autozone for this and thats.

What about the intake o-rings?  Has that been a source of leaks?

Any input or advice is welcome.

-David

[Gryphon Rider]

Welcome back!

While playing with the final drive, pull the drive shaft to inspect and lube, and check the U-joint for play and smoothness.

The electric fuel shutoff valve isn't supposed to replace the manual one, but to be installed in addition to the manual valve.

Tighten battery connections, and unfasten, clean, and refasten the large ground to engine connection.

Change the coolant.

Ignore the sticker's tire pressure recommendations and put 40-42 PSI in the front, and 44 in the rear (assuming not a car tire).

Intake O-rings will leave a brown tell-tale stain when they are leaking.  Photo from Valkpilots's post (http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php?topic=95448.0):



Take an experienced rider course to knock the rust off of your riding skills.

Register for InZane XVIII.

[Hook#3287]

Replace clutch and brake fluids.

Add chrome

[dwnorwood]

All good advice, Gryphon Rider.  Thanks.

I went to the garage and looked for those telltale brown stains.  #3 and #4, definitely.  #1 and #2, maybe...I'll get a better look when I take the pods off or light it up with my trouble light.  So, we now know at least some of my problem.  I'll order Red Eye's set of o-rings and replace those as well.

Thanks for the comment about the fuel shutoff.  Is that so that it requires two points of failure (well, three if you count driver forgetting to shut off the fuel) in order to have a problem?

[Gryphon Rider]

All good advice, Gryphon Rider.  Thanks.

I went to the garage and looked for those telltale brown stains.  #3 and #4, definitely.  #1 and #2, maybe...I'll get a better look when I take the pods off or light it up with my trouble light.  So, we now know at least some of my problem.  I'll order Red Eye's set of o-rings and replace those as well.

Thanks for the comment about the fuel shutoff.  Is that so that it requires two points of failure (well, three if you count driver forgetting to shut off the fuel) in order to have a problem?

The float needle valves each have an internal spring that can soften, making it easier for fuel to get past, making them a third point of failure on a stock bike (1. manual side of fuel petc0ck, 2. vacuum side of fuel petc0ck, 3. float needle valves).  Adding a solenoid valve adds a fourth point of failure.



Our own BonS made this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuRJcEwW3QY

[da prez]

Disconnect and clean all battery and ground connections. Use silicone dia electric on all connections. If you De smog , do not short cut. Replace fuel vacuum hose and re build the oem shut off and get rid of the electric  shut off.  

                  da prez

[hubcapsc]

Read the date codes on the tires...

-Mike

[pago cruiser]

Check the air cleaner. One of my Valks did not have one.

And, check to make sure the air cleaner box lid has that stringly little rubber seal in the recess  all around the perimeter. NEITHER of my Valks had that.     Some people.... 

And if you have a spare Benjamin at tax refund time, just buy another petcock; best insurance you will ever get. 

And spray some contact cleaner in the kill switch; when that switch loses continuity, you. are. not. going. anywhere.

Good luck! As you know, these are really fun bikes. But I have noticed in my maybe 5 years of ownership, parts are getting scarce.  I have purchased a headlight and saddlebag crash bars new from Honda ; both of which are no longer available. 

[txtriathlete]

If you read the two de-smog 'How To' articles in shoptalk they will give you a couple of ideas on how to do it without the kit.

I just bought a new to me 99 I/S green/silver with approx 36000 on it - brought it home last week. Going through this list along with you. Been a 'bucket list' bike for me for a long time, looking forward to many long rides on her.

Happy riding!

[gordonv]

I think with just adding the carb cleaner to the fuel (Berrymans B12), you should show some difference in the idle. I suspect this 1st, before a vacuum leak. If it does, keep it up.

Going to ride in the rain? Check you spark plug wells, and insure the drain holes are clear.

I've always recommended the rear wheel lube (hub and axle), understanding the petcock and how it works (test it for functionality) and 1/2 can of carb cleaner in a tank of gas.

[RonW]

For the desmog, I plugged the hole in the air cleaner with a vacuum plug (⅛-inch I.D., Dorman brand). The walls on the ⅛-inch I.D. plug is thick enough to fit snuggly in the air cleaner hole, it ain't going anywhere. Could have filled the ⅛-inch hollow with silicone but I didn't think it was necessary. Also, the material isn't viton or neoprene that I'm aware of, so I plan to replace it with a viton plug someday.

[davit]

Do the obvious - oil, tires, air cleaner, then ride it.  As you ride items that need attention will be brought to your attention.  I think a lot of us, myself included, do unnecessary repairs and do them incorrectly, and then have to go back and do them again.  Waist of time and energy and a source of pointless aggrivation.  Don't get ahead of yourself.

A good example of that would be a desmog; just buy some new hoses and orings from Redeye, keep it baseline factory so it's easy to go back and find a problem, and ride. 

[hubcapsc]

Don't get ahead of yourself.

A good example of that would be a desmog; just buy some new hoses and orings from Redeye, keep it baseline factory so it's easy to go back and find a problem, and ride. 

Yeah, I jumped on the de-smog... after I helped Stanley Steamer put a Red-eye kit on his bike,
I began to wish that is what I'd done.

Maybe I'll come back here with my tail between my legs one day, but I'm glad I still have my OEM
petcock and know how to refurbish and test it. And I'm glad I don't have a bunch of extra circuits
and relays running some kind of electric fuel-do-dad crammed up under my tank.

Frank Smoak was all over me to try a car tire, but I'm still running a MC tire.

It is easy to think you need to do all these things right away, since some of the
most-knowledgeable/best-riders on the board have them.

Make sure your OEM stuff is functioning properly so you don't get stuck on the side of
the road and you'll know what else you want to do soon enough if you keep your Valkyrie.

-Mike "get rid of your OEM valve stems  though  "

[dwnorwood]

Starter fluid test confirmed it.  Intake o-rings leaking bad, especially 3, 5, and 4.  Glad  replacements are already ordered from Red Eye Rich.  Meanwhile, the Seafoam has definitely helped.

[hubcapsc]

It's petpencil everywhere, even when you write
... it's a conspiracy!

-Mike "I must have missed that day..."

[dwnorwood]

HubcapSC, me too.  Who the heck renamed it to petpencil?

[hubcapsc]

HubcapSC, me too.  Who the heck renamed it to petpencil?

The moderators are weirdos, but they're OK...

-Mike

[semo97]

I just spent three months going through a 97 tourer, I knew nothing about. I was lucky it was all stock except for the drilled muffler and cut pigs. It was loud and did not sound good. I rebuilt all brake rotors and three master cylinders. When the fluid in the bottom is thick yellow gunk and in the rotors, rebuild. Check throttle cables, go through the rear end, clean all old grease off and all new O-rings and seals and bearings. DE-smog, add a pingel non vacuum put an adjustable hose clamp on it, replace all tubes you will miss a cracked one or spit one. See anywhere a ground goes to the frame look for rust and clean it.The tube under the bike that has a plug in it replace it and lengthen it so the T that is in it  is above the altinator not down beside it. Lengthen the line that goes to the air box from the T about 2" it makes it easier to connect. New spark plugs, new oil and filter, new antifreeze with a flush. If you have the air box out and de-smoging put in a new thermostat. I had no engine issues, carbs just needed new gas and some cleaner run through it. I read on the bosch spark plug sight that to much carb cleaner like sea foam and others can cause poping through the exhaust so watch the ratio. I made that mistake. Rebuild the clutch slave cylinder while you have the rear tire off. Pull exhaust and put new gaskets and might want to buy a couple extra studs they seem to snap some times. Tighten exhaust nuts down even turns. I put 500$ into parts counting oil filter, oil, antifreeze, ss bolts, nuts, moly paste, it adds up fast.

[Willow]

HubcapSC, me too.  Who the heck renamed it to petpencil?

The moderators are weirdos, but they're OK...

-Mike

The moderators don't do that.  It's the BBS software.

OK, so maybe I found a way to remove that word from the list.      petcock

[Motodad71]

New member here.....I have a "mint" 97 I'm picking up soon from a very sad situation which I won't get into, but the previous owner "rest his soul" is no doubt thrilled I am giving his baby a good home. There is only 6700 miles on this beast, but has been meticulously maintained from what I know, and he is the only owner of this bike bought new in 98. Buddy of mine was up there and said it started up pretty good, although battery was weak but it idled perfectly......"I'm hopeful" all is well since it's obviously sat a bit. So are y'all saying I should eventually invest in a Pingle pet-rooster over the OEM vacuum system?

[Hook#3287]

New member here.....I have a "mint" 97 I'm picking up soon from a very sad situation which I won't get into, but the previous owner "rest his soul" is no doubt thrilled I am giving his baby a good home. There is only 6700 miles on this beast, but has been meticulously maintained from what I know, and he is the only owner of this bike bought new in 98. Buddy of mine was up there and said it started up pretty good, although battery was weak but it idled perfectly......"I'm hopeful" all is well since it's obviously sat a bit. So are y'all saying I should eventually invest in a Pingle pet-rooster over the OEM vacuum system?

Welcome to the site.

Petcock replacement with a Pingle is advised by many and not by others.  Some consider it absolutely necessary and others, a waste of money.  You'll have to decide which group your comfortable with.

Some claim it's the save all for hydro-lock prevention, but others claim a hydro lock can still happen with just the gas in the lines.  I think the jury's still out on that.

I think the thing about having a Pingle is you have to be religious in turning it to off, for it to be effective.

I've never installed a Pingle, I rebuild the oem with a cover set.

COVER SET, PETCOCK
16953-MBZ-B51 $28.84

I use the oem because I have the chrome engine hangers and I'm used to the oem set-up.

She started and idles.

Grab a new battery, swap the oil & filter, throw some b-12 in the tank with fresh gas and ride her.

[Motodad71]

New member here.....I have a "mint" 97 I'm picking up soon from a very sad situation which I won't get into, but the previous owner "rest his soul" is no doubt thrilled I am giving his baby a good home. There is only 6700 miles on this beast, but has been meticulously maintained from what I know, and he is the only owner of this bike bought new in 98. Buddy of mine was up there and said it started up pretty good, although battery was weak but it idled perfectly......"I'm hopeful" all is well since it's obviously sat a bit. So are y'all saying I should eventually invest in a Pingle pet-rooster over the OEM vacuum system?

Welcome to the site.

Petcock replacement with a Pingle is advised by many and not by others.  Some consider it absolutely necessary and others, a waste of money.  You'll have to decide which group your comfortable with.

Some claim it's the save all for hydro-lock prevention, but others claim a hydro lock can still happen with just the gas in the lines.  I think the jury's still out on that.

I think the thing about having a Pingle is you have to be religious in turning it to off, for it to be effective.

I've never installed a Pingle, I rebuild the oem with a cover set.

COVER SET, PETCOCK
16953-MBZ-B51 $28.84

I use the oem because I have the chrome engine hangers and I'm used to the oem set-up.

She started and idles.

Grab a new battery, swap the oil & filter, throw some b-12 in the tank with fresh gas and ride her.

Awesome info, thanks for the response. So the kit you listed above is to "rebuild" the OEM petcock I assume? I'm floored these bikes don't have a fuel gauge or engine coolant gauge, but I've seen the fella who makes a sweet system for all that. I'm excited to get this beast, only has 6700 miles on it.....owner however has all service records and did maintain everything per age, since he obviously didn't ride it that much.

[Gryphon Rider]

Awesome info, thanks for the response. So the kit you listed above is to "rebuild" the OEM petcock I assume? I'm floored these bikes don't have a fuel gauge or engine coolant gauge, but I've seen the fella who makes a sweet system for all that. I'm excited to get this beast, only has 6700 miles on it.....owner however has all service records and did maintain everything per age, since he obviously didn't ride it that much.

If your original petcock is working well (no problem with leaking or lack of fuel), don't rebuild it as preventative maintenance.  If you wish, purchase the kit to have in case you need it.  This kit only solves two problems:  1. fuel is leaking out the vent hole on the bottom of the valve, indicating a torn fuel diaphragm, and 2. a tear in vacuum diaphragm preventing engine vacuum from opening or fully opening the vacuum-operated side of the valve assembly.  The kit does nothing with the ON-OFF-RESERVE side of the valve assembly.

An aftermarket engine temperature gauge can be installed with a moderate amount of work, and if you swap your fuel tank for one from an Interstate that is complete with the fuel gauge sender, you can find aftermarket gauges to work with the sender.  The sender is 0-90 Ohms, but with 0 indicating full and 90 indicating empty, it is the reverse of most 0-90 senders, narrowing your gauge selection.

[Motodad71]

I just called the local Honda powersports dealer and asked the service department about Honda parts availability. I was pretty concerned with trying to maintain a 20 year old motorcycle should things start to fail, but it sounds like many factory parts are still available and will be for some time to come. Not much goes wrong with these engines so that isn't a concern of mine, but the final drive parts availability is of a small concern. This 97 I am looking to buy only has 6700 "very easy miles" put on it, so other than tires and a battery I feel pretty good about pulling the trigger. The overall reliability of these bikes seem very good, and I've been reading up quite a bit on the forum. So is there a legitimate concern for any OEM parts no longer available, and if so what are they?

[The emperor has no clothes]

I just called the local Honda powersports dealer and asked the service department about Honda parts availability. I was pretty concerned with trying to maintain a 20 year old motorcycle should things start to fail, but it sounds like many factory parts are still available and will be for some time to come. Not much goes wrong with these engines so that isn't a concern of mine, but the final drive parts availability is of a small concern. This 97 I am looking to buy only has 6700 "very easy miles" put on it, so other than tires and a battery I feel pretty good about pulling the trigger. The overall reliability of these bikes seem very good, and I've been reading up quite a bit on the forum. So is there a legitimate concern for any OEM parts no longer available, and if so what are they?

Not really, in my opinion. But some of the parts have increased in price dramatically. The alternator cover went from $30 to over $100 almost overnight. With only 6700 miles, I think you have nothing to worry about. Get the fluids changed, the rear drive lubed, new tires and you should be good for many miles.

[Hook#3287]

I agree with Rob (meathead), on the tires.  (well, on the parts thing, too) (and the fluids)

If original, the tires are suspect and you should inspect them carefully.

Better yet, just replace them.

Good to have new sneakers

If you can't find the part you want as new stock, there's always E-bay, Facebook or here, for used.