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txtriathlete
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« on: April 11, 2018, 07:00:59 AM » |
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Recently bought and installed Murphs' Kit CCS100 cruise control unit which is basically the old audiovox unit. Installed it per instructions on the shoptalk pages here. Took it for a first ride yesterday and it lights up fine but doesn't hold the set speed and won't accel.
Not sure where to start on troubleshooting. Vacuum has a lot of parts to it, my thought is I may have a vacuum leak somewhere. Would this cause it to not set or hold? Other things to check? The unit is brand new so shouldn't have any issues with servo. Lighting on bike is all standard incandescent (no LEDs) so not an electrical thing from that angle.
Any help appreciated. Thanks!
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Novavalker
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« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2018, 08:09:29 AM » |
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You said it lights up fine. Does the center cruise control light come on when the cruise is turned on?
I would double check the purple wire connections from the servo unit to the brake light wire.
It should have power only when either the front or rear brake is actuated. On the Valkyrie, this wire is either GY (Green with yellow trace) or GR (Green with Red trace).
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“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.”
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15210
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2018, 09:03:41 AM » |
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Do you have LED turn signals in place of the OEM incandescent version? If so, you'll need a relay in the purple wire circuit. Obviously something is haywire in your electrical hook up, we need a bit more info on what you hooked up and how.
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txtriathlete
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« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2018, 12:47:40 PM » |
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Connected exactly like Audiovox shoptalk tutorial. No LEDs. The light in the middle of the controller comes on when the unit is powered on. Purple wire is connected to the G/R rear brake light wire in seat area, has .23 volts when no brake applied, 10.55 when brake is applied.
Edit: According to the tutorial the Purple wire is supposed to have some charge at all times as a safety measure, tutorial says 8-9 volts which sounds really high to me on a 12 volt system but maybe...if so then there is not enough charge coming from the servo (on the safety feedback loop). anyone know if 8-9 VOLTs is right?
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« Last Edit: April 11, 2018, 01:01:13 PM by txtriathlete »
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Novavalker
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« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2018, 02:15:16 PM » |
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http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage03.htmlThis is a Standard Schematic. It shows Green with yellow stripe wire for the brake lights. My Interstate shows green with a yellow stripe too.
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“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.”
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15210
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2018, 03:02:44 PM » |
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My shop manual shows G/R is part of the clutch switch circuit via a diode. Look under the right side cover and find a G/Y wire and hook the purple to that. I think you're wired wrong in that part of the hook up. A G/R in the brake circuit might be out there on some models, but I've looked in two different manuals and all the models show G/Y for brake lights. Plus I've never seen a G/R for brakes on any Valkyrie I've worked on and that's been a fair number. Try moving your purple wire and let us know what happens.  |
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« Last Edit: April 11, 2018, 03:08:32 PM by John Schmidt »
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txtriathlete
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« Reply #6 on: April 11, 2018, 04:00:31 PM » |
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Will go back and check color - but this makes we wonder why would it show a change in voltage when I squeeze the brake lever or press the pedal if it is not the brake wire? ??? The part of the diagram that shows the GY wire in the connector looks just like mine at that connector except for wire color. I tapped that GR wire just behind the connector (tail light side) for the purple wire.
No chance this is vacuum, right?
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #7 on: April 11, 2018, 05:05:01 PM » |
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Per my circuit design for run-brake-turn mod using LED arrays, the brake light wire is G/R on an Interstate. G/Y on std/tour. I got that from Honda's schematic in the back of the manuals - std/tour, and the different I/S manual. Just checked Honda's schematic - confirmed.
Just looked at the install in shoptalk. Interesting. Why do 5 vacuum ports need to be hooked up to the reservoir? Due to leakage - or does it need a big volume of vacuum? OK I got it. The servo is apparently a vacuum servo with a diaphram inside. I thought it used a stepper motor inside to pull the cable but I see now this is old-school low-tech.
I suspect I am going to install this on Jade before Inzane.
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« Last Edit: April 11, 2018, 05:21:51 PM by MarkT »
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bentwrench
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« Reply #8 on: April 11, 2018, 05:09:45 PM » |
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If it sets but won't hold or accel it may be vacuum. Are you using a reservior and check valves?How many cylinders are hooked up?
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Dusty
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« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2018, 05:33:31 PM » |
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Mine worked for a couple of years and then quit . I used this thread to clean the solenoids and it has worked like a charm. Symptoms were lights would come on but cruise would not engage. The solenoids came apart easy. The thread is here but photo bucket screwed up the pictures. If you want to look into the solenoids and can't figure it out I will try and help you. http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19536Dusty |
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txtriathlete
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« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2018, 07:59:38 PM » |
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If it sets but won't hold or accelerate it may be vacuum. Are you using a reservoir and check valves?How many cylinders are hooked up?
yes using a reservoir. 5 cylinders hooked up (all but one that goes to the petcock). 5 into 2 into reservoir and then one out to servo. Not sure if this is optimal or just a way to do it - I might go back and redo the vac lines if I can't get it resolved elsewhere. |
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txtriathlete
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« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2018, 08:03:05 PM » |
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Mine worked for a couple of years and then quit . I used this thread to clean the solenoids and it has worked like a charm. Symptoms were lights would come on but cruise would not engage. The solenoids came apart easy. The thread is here but photo bucket screwed up the pictures. If you want to look into the solenoids and can't figure it out I will try and help you. http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19536Dusty Its a brand new unit so I'm hoping there's no need to tear into it - yet. Good to know that it can be serviced tho. I am also going to check the cable routing between the servo and carbs - it makes a couple of pretty sharp bends and it may be that it is binding and not letting the servo do its thing - i.e. the servo is working but the cable isn't able to move. Looks like the darn airbox is coming off...again. Grr. |
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bentwrench
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« Reply #12 on: April 12, 2018, 06:10:38 AM » |
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I managed to service the all the vacuum hoses w/out pulling the airbox. Long hemostats from a gun show or surplus supply are invaluable .
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big poppa pump
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« Reply #13 on: April 12, 2018, 06:50:36 AM » |
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yes using a reservoir. 5 cylinders hooked up (all but one that goes to the petcock). 5 into 2 into reservoir and then one out to servo.
Not sure if this is optimal or just a way to do it - I might go back and redo the vac lines if I can't get it resolved elsewhere.
Make sure you have the input/output right on the reservoir. |
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VRCC#35870 VRCCDS#0266 1998 Valkyrie Hot Rod  |
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semo97
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« Reply #14 on: April 12, 2018, 07:57:30 AM » |
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You are good with the 5 lines for the vacuum, in the past some used none, some one, take your pick. I used all five. How much slack did you put in the chain? I have done several and I leave about 1/16th or none.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15210
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #15 on: April 12, 2018, 06:53:58 PM » |
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Do you have one way check valves in your vacuum lines leading from the back of the carbs to the reservoir? If not, then you're not developing any vacuum in the reservoir.
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txtriathlete
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« Reply #16 on: April 13, 2018, 05:59:32 AM » |
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got it up on the lift yesterday to see if I could set the cruise with the bike stationary. It seems like it tried to set (chain got tight) the first time or two but then failed - so I think the electrical stuff is working.
I need to revisit the cable routing and make sure the vacuum lines are tight. I did put in the valves so it may just be a cable thing.
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MarkT
Member
Posts: 5196
VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"
Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km
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« Reply #17 on: April 13, 2018, 06:15:58 AM » |
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After doing some reading I decided to go with the higher-tech Rostra unit. Concerned the vacuum-based Audiovox unit can fail due to vacuum leaks and diaphram failure. Had enough trouble with the OEM petcock on that.
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John Schmidt
Member
Posts: 15210
a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike
De Pere, WI (Green Bay)
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« Reply #18 on: April 13, 2018, 07:33:46 AM » |
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got it up on the lift yesterday to see if I could set the cruise with the bike stationary. It seems like it tried to set (chain got tight) the first time or two but then failed - so I think the electrical stuff is working.
I need to revisit the cable routing and make sure the vacuum lines are tight. I did put in the valves so it may just be a cable thing.
Cable? Quite possible if you have too tight a bend in it. Mine is installed in the back half of the battery box after removing the divider. The cable exits out the left side and makes a wide sweep back to the right above the overflow tank and another wide sweep in between the carbs to the point where I fastened it down on top of the motor. |
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Novavalker
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« Reply #19 on: April 13, 2018, 08:42:13 AM » |
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got it up on the lift yesterday to see if I could set the cruise with the bike stationary. It seems like it tried to set (chain got tight) the first time or two but then failed - so I think the electrical stuff is working.
I need to revisit the cable routing and make sure the vacuum lines are tight. I did put in the valves so it may just be a cable thing.
I don't think you can set the cruise while the bike is stationary on the lift. The servo will sense excessive RPM (when you pull in the clutch and not engage. I tried that once when I first installed mine. It will only engage when the bike is in motion. I would be inclined to disconnect your servo cable to the throttle linkage . Mark the cable ride the bike and see if the cable moves when you engage the cruise control. |
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“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.”
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txtriathlete
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« Reply #20 on: April 13, 2018, 08:57:39 PM » |
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Spent some time with it today. After much troubleshooting it was the positive wire from the battery. I was running through a relay and I guess it wasn’t enough amps or something. Any rate it is working now. So if we ever get rid of the snow I can go road test it. Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #21 on: April 14, 2018, 05:16:22 AM » |
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Spent some time with it today. After much troubleshooting it was the positive wire from the battery. I was running through a relay and I guess it wasn’t enough amps or something. Any rate it is working now. So if we ever get rid of the snow I can go road test it. Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions.
Are you running it straight off the battery ? |
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txtriathlete
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« Reply #22 on: April 14, 2018, 07:09:11 AM » |
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Spent some time with it today. After much troubleshooting it was the positive wire from the battery. I was running through a relay and I guess it wasn’t enough amps or something. Any rate it is working now. So if we ever get rid of the snow I can go road test it. Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions.
Are you running it straight off the battery ? yep |
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #23 on: April 14, 2018, 07:35:30 AM » |
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Spent some time with it today. After much troubleshooting it was the positive wire from the battery. I was running through a relay and I guess it wasn’t enough amps or something. Any rate it is working now. So if we ever get rid of the snow I can go road test it. Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions.
Are you running it straight off the battery ? yep I’m no electrical expert by any means. But I think it’s going to run your battery down if you don’t have it switched with the key. |
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txtriathlete
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« Reply #24 on: April 14, 2018, 09:18:10 AM » |
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Spent some time with it today. After much troubleshooting it was the positive wire from the battery. I was running through a relay and I guess it wasn’t enough amps or something. Any rate it is working now. So if we ever get rid of the snow I can go road test it. Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions.
Are you running it straight off the battery ? yep I’m no electrical expert by any means. But I think it’s going to run your battery down if you don’t have it switched with the key. It has two switched leads that run the controller, I think the dedicated hot lead only powers the servo when in use. I have it off the trickle charger, I'll keep an eye on it and see what it does. |
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