Gas generator to power home when there are power outtages

[..]

Aren’t both ends supposed to be male fittings ?

I was wondering about that myself.

Everyone may not have the setup I have.

But the generator doesn't have any prongs sticking out, and neither does the electrical panel (or any feed connected to the panel).

I can't figure how the female end fits into the generator-to-house-power equation.  

But I'm no electrician or even an apprentice.

Other female ends, I figured out long ago.     (no formal training there either)

Male at house.

Female at gennie.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6QZn9xiuOE

[carolinarider09]

Prob half that price if you make it yourself . . .

Just made one yesterday.  Outlets were about $55 total and wire a about $2 a foot at the local Lowe's

Same connector types and amp rating.

On the good side is it was not made in China.  Maybe the connectors were but I am making the connections with the cable.  So I can say it was assembled in the USA.

Total cost for a 30 foot cable was about $110.

[Jess from VA]

Pic he showed that comes from his “box” was a male. So i think he got the right cord. . .

Oh. I didn’t see that.

Ha, me neither.  Well, I saw it, but didn't register what it was.

Now I'm curious... if the main (pole) power was on (as normal), and you switched the panel generator switch(es) to on, wouldn't those prongs sticking out be hot? 

[carolinarider09]

Pic he showed that comes from his “box” was a male. So i think he got the right cord. . .

Oh. I didn’t see that.

Ha, me neither.  Well, I saw it, but didn't register what it was.

Now I'm curious... if the main (pole) power was on (as normal), and you switched the panel generator switch(es) to on, wouldn't those prongs sticking out be hot?  

The answer is, making some assumptions, Yes.  His breaker panel has an interlock (metal bracket, etc) that appears to prevent the closing of the generator input to the panel with the main input breaker closed.  This is a mechanical interlock and could be manually over ridden, if you really tried.  But it appears to be the proper way to make the interface in his case.

[..]

Pic he showed that comes from his “box” was a male. So i think he got the right cord. . .

Oh. I didn’t see that.

Ha, me neither.  Well, I saw it, but didn't register what it was.

Now I'm curious... if the main (pole) power was on (as normal), and you switched the panel generator switch(es) to on, wouldn't those prongs sticking out be hot?  

The answer is, making some assumptions, Yes.  His breaker panel has an interlock (metal bracket, etc) that appears to prevent the closing of the generator input to the panel with the main input breaker closed.  This is a mechanical interlock and could be manually over ridden, if you really tried.  But it appears to be the proper way to make the interface in his case.

 

I'll make sure I attach the cable before I start the procedure to switch from house to gennie panel.

[Jess from VA]

In simpler terms, you mean the generator power can go in, but the pole power is not supposed to go out those plug prongs.  

I mean, that sounds like the only safe way to have plug prongs like that sticking out.

But you never know what some Harry Homeowner did.  

I'm a card carrying Harry Homeowner, and I know.  

For instance, after several years at my new/old home, I discovered that the previous owner decided it wasn't necessary to hook up the ground wire in any of my 22 house plug outlets.  What a marooooon.  

[Jess from VA]

I'll make sure I attach the cable before I start the procedure to switch from house to gennie panel.

Paul, you never want to start the generator with it all hooked up to the house panel, with all the house circuits on/open.  It puts too much strain on the generator (may not start, or start and bog instantly, and also a chance of browning out some electronics or fridges). Now if all the individual house circuits are switched off at startup, and only after starting and running good, you bring the circuits you want on up one by one, that would be OK.

In my procedure, the main is off, the house circuits are also off, the extension cord to my panel is plugged in, but the other end to the generator is not plugged in.  Then I start the generator.  It takes a minute or so to run good and steady.  THEN I plug the extension cord into the generator (and it reacts going under some load).  Then I go inside and bring up the circuits I want to power one by one.

Just remember, if those plug prongs are hot,  the other end of the extension with the plug prongs for the generator will also be hot.

BTW, this whole business is best done stone cold sober, and not after sipping some fine amber liquid refreshment beforehand.

Good luck in this storm.  They are now saying ALL the models have it moving south, after it hits the coast.

[carolinarider09]

Jess,

You said "In my procedure, the main is off, the house circuits are also off, the extension cord to my panel is plugged in, but the other end to the generator is not plugged in.  Then I start the generator.  It takes a minute or so to run good and steady.  THEN I plug the extension cord into the generator (and it reacts going under some load).  Then I go inside and bring up the circuits I want to power one by one."

If the all house circuits are off why does the generator do under some load?  When you say, you have ll the house circuits off are you referring to all breakers on your breaker panel are open? 

Britman,

The way your system is set up and if I understand what Jess is saying, it would seem that when you want to switch to generator power to the house you could do the following.

Open the main house supply breakers. 
Make sure the generator supply breakers are open
Open all the load breakers on your breaker panel
Connect the cable to the house from the generator
Start the generator and let it idle and come up to operating temperature
Check to make sure all house load breakers are open
Close generator supply breaker to house
Slowly close other breakers that you want to use to power in house loads

If would seem this would ensure the generator gets to come up to speed and temp and then you can do what most power plants do when they use emergency generators, power on loads as needed based on the capabilities of the emergency generator.

I would be very interested in pros and cons of this process.

[carolinarider09]

Sometimes I can't type well and Jess and while I try and proof read it, I don't always succeed.

The basic question was, if all the house breakers/loads are open (not on line) and you plug the generator it, you said it assumes some load. I was just wondering why? 

[Jess from VA]

Sometimes I can't type well and Jess and while I try and proof read it, I don't always succeed.

The basic question was, if all the house breakers/loads are open (not on line) and you plug the generator it, you said it assumes some load. I was just wondering why?  

OK, with no circuits ON (open?), there should be no load, you're right.  My discussion (in this thread) was for best practices, in actuality,  I don't turn off all my circuits, just all the 220s and the few others with heavy use/surge (fridges), I leave the others on (there may be a couple house lights and clocks on them, and all those glowing LEDs in things turned off).  So I do get a small load when I plug in.  You can hear the generator working harder when a load is added. (sort of like a downshift)

I'm not sure what open and closed mean, electric-wise.  Most of my breaker panel circuits are switched OFF (closed?) when I plug the generator in.  

I guess I've got open and closed reversed here.  

[..]

I'll make sure I attach the cable before I start the procedure to switch from house to gennie panel.

Paul, you never want to start the generator with it all hooked up to the house panel, with all the house circuits on/open.  It puts too much strain on the generator (may not start, or start and bog instantly, and also a chance of browning out some electronics or fridges). Now if all the individual house circuits are switched off at startup, and only after starting and running good, you bring the circuits you want on up one by one, that would be OK.

In my procedure, the main is off, the house circuits are also off, the extension cord to my panel is plugged in, but the other end to the generator is not plugged in.  Then I start the generator.  It takes a minute or so to run good and steady.  THEN I plug the extension cord into the generator (and it reacts going under some load).  Then I go inside and bring up the circuits I want to power one by one.

Just remember, if those plug prongs are hot,  the other end of the extension with the plug prongs for the generator will also be hot.

BTW, this whole business is best done stone cold sober, and not after sipping some fine amber liquid refreshment beforehand.

Good luck in this storm.  They are now saying ALL the models have it moving south, after it hits the coast.

I meant that I would make sure the male on the house was plugged in so I don't make my hair go straight! 

Everything would be done in the proper procedure.

[Jess from VA]

Ok, I think we've talked this through.

Now, as always, lets hope you don't need it.  Or me either.

The only additional preparation I've done is to set my operating manual and engine manuals out for a quick refresher course.

[carolinarider09]

Jess,

Yes that clears it up and is not a bad practice.  Just what most automated systems do that I have worked with.  

I have considered the purchase and installation of a whole house emergency generator with an automatic transfer switch.  What has always bugged me about the automatic transfer switch is how would the generator respond to the sudden imposition of normal house loads which could include the HVAC system and other high power consumption loads.

[Jess from VA]

Well my brother has the Generac natural gas whole house setup, and I've been there when it kicked on and took over with no problem.  It also comes on once a month in a test mode for a short time.  He has had to have it worked on a couple times over the years.  Obviously, it would have some outer limits, and once on, one would need to exercise restraint in ongoing electric usage.

My last upgrade gasoline generator will not do central AC or other 220, but it has twice the power my other ones had.  It will run my one window AC unit no problem, and I could get a 2d in an extended pinch.

I really considered the whole house natural gas setup, and could have afforded the coin, but we just have not lost power for extended periods often (3+ days twice in 25 years), and the install was going to require me to cut up concrete I paid good money for.  And I am still not sure I'm staying here till they find my body. 

Though natural gas is the least efficient fuel (compared to gasoline and propane) I see no downside since only an earthquake should disrupt natural gas lines, and we have little of that in the east.  Although a big regional power grid failure or EMP blast could shut down the gas company itself (being close to DC and all).   

[MarkT]

The times I've needed to use the generator, I have shut down the main breaker, and the breakers that deliver to huge power users (spa, water heater), connect the wires that lead out to the bike barn where the generator is, pull it out of the corner and connect the wire at the house portal.  Then start the generator, let it settle into a steady run for a couple minutes, then make the last connection plugging in the wire at the generator.  So the adapter plugs that connect inside the shop at the 240 welder's socket which has two male ends, are unpowered when they are handled.  Circuits that are on at the main panel, feed the whole house, 15 & 20amp circuits, but does include the 240v well circuit and the shop's 240v sub-panel which brings the power into the panel. OK also the kitchen's stove power - but the stove is off.  The generator will power the stove. We don't have or need A/C at this high altitude, dry climate. When the generator is connected, the load then is house lighting (which is generally low, we have lots of LED & flourescent lights) the kitchen fridge and chest freezer and well if they are calling for power. In the winter I'll then add the furnace breaker.  The generator always pulls down a little but handles the load OK.  Again it's rated about 7500w surge, 6500 steady. It's a gasoline generator about 400cc $500 from Costco, had it for over a decade and it's always worked. The power isn't perfect but the computers are protected by UPS and so is the AV equipment in the den.  Costco has models with a bit more power now and more features, but I don't need to replace it - It's unusual for us to have power out now, even once a year.  I keep the tank full, the carb empty with pure gas and Seafoam in it, and a couple cans of the same. I get 10 hours run on a tank.

I need to be able to open the power to the big compressor.  I think that's a good small project for this weekend - after I finish the current pipe build I'm working on.

[scooperhsd]

The house we just sold in Youngsville - we had considered the idea of a generator, but up until we left, our longest power outage EVER was Hurricane Fran in Sep 1996. That outage lasted almost exactly 24 hours - 1 AM to 1 AM, and we were able to cope just fine by having water stored in buckets and taking toilet water out of the pool. We MIGHT have considered a generator because of Florence (we have to admit to missing the adenarlin rush and the excitement of a big storm), but only because it might have been for an extended period and we were on our own well. Cooking could be handled on the propane cooktop and my grill on the patio (hooked to the house propane tank) - the only real issues for an extended period would have been Fridge / freezer and the well.

 I had considered in the past the idea of a Propane fridge (eliminate that user of power), and moving to a propane water heater, but it just didn't make much sense to go to that extreme .

[Jess from VA]

I want to bring this back up again, because I just learned something I never heard of before, and I know some guys here have more technical gas fitter knowledge than I do (which is practically none).

I always assumed if you wanted to run a natural gas generator (assuming you have natural gas to the house), it would have to be plumbed with code qualifying hard pipe from the house to wherever you will run your generator (below ground to the required depth, if it is across your yard).  I assumed anyone with the Generac whole house system had to have that plumbed the same way. (Those generators usually sit just outside the home on a small concrete slab, or something).

Now I have seen some Utubes discussing the use of CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing), which is somewhat flexible, being used to pipe natural gas out of the house, out to your generator.  And I think most (or many) generators can be converted to run on natural gas (with a kit that runs around $200).  

So here's the question:  Why couldn't I tap into my house natural gas line in my basement utility room, with hard pipe, a ball valve inside, and a ball valve outside, through the wall/foundation, with the pipe ready to tap just outside my basement utility room? (This I would pay done by a pro)  Then, when power goes out, I bring out my coil of CSST, properly secure it to the tap on my house/foundation wall, run it out to my generator shed (40 feet), hook the other end to my generator, and run it on natural gas.  I already have the 220/240 feed electrical extension to run from my generator shed, back to my outside box that back-feeds my 200amp panel back in the basement utility room.

While I have lost electrical power many times over the years, the only time I ever lost natural gas service in 26 years was for repairs being performed out on the lines under the street (once).

Here's your CSST:




My preliminary research shows that tens of thousands of homes that are natural gas piped internally with CSST are now in violation of newer code requirements that all CSST be grounded because it is at risk for being struck by lightening.  So I would have to figure out a way to ground my portable line when it is to be connected to run my generator.  I could already have a ground rod in place and simply add that as an additional hookup before powering up the generator.  Or, run a ground rod permanently to the outside ball valve/hard pipe exiting the foundation, if that qualifies.

For those of us with natural gas, it would beat the hell out of having to keep and store and treat and rotate stored gasoline, and constantly worry about gummed up carbs.

So what do you say?


(Please don't tell me this is something that would require a freaking permit every time it was hooked up, or unhooked)
    

 

[MarkT]

Might be a good idea if this is a frequent concern.  Just being selfish, more effort than needed in my case, as I rarely lose power anymore.  Less than once / year and then it's usually back on before I need to fire up the generator.  Though we do have somewhat frequent power hits so I have to reset the spa and clocks - about once / 2 months.  Not too much trouble to dump the stored gas in the truck or use it in the Honda "tug" (used to be a garden tractor but the deck siezed so now it just pulls trailers around the ranch) and swap the gas in the generator & add Seafoam - that's once / yr.

[..]

It lives.

Got the wheel attached. Oil, Gas.

Started first pull.

Battery had no charge but charges whist the gennie is running. Came with a set of tender cables.

Now it's running for 30 mins and then I'll change the oil.

I bought this one.

I went with the dual fuel so I will have a propane tank on standby if TSHTF.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009RBKGZC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know I know it's not  a Honda, Generac etc.

It's not your wallet either. 

Arrived well packed. No damage.

Bloody quick shipping from Amazon. UPS guy noticed the furniture dolly I left outside my garage and put the box on it.

UPS guy 

[..]

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP SO FAR.

[carolinarider09]

When I built my house I had them run a natural gas line out to the edge of the back porch for a proposed grill.  We changed the location of the grill and had another line run from that line to the grill's new locations.  The line is the same line you are talking about and runs to a shutoff valve on the porch.

The grill line simply plugs into that shutoff valve.  

The line runs 20 or more feet under an unenclosed porch the grill location.

So, there is no reason that I can see that you could not do what you want.  

The only issue would be, during operation, you would have an exposed natural gas line on your lawn running to the generator shed which could be easily detached or otherwise molested while it was pressurized.  

As far as permits go, I live inside the city limits of a small town.  I had the line installed by a licensed individual who looked like he got it right.  I did not ask for any additional permitting since I already had the inspection for occupancy with the line under the porch deck.

Just think, a natural gas grill might be handy at that location. 

[Jess from VA]

Thanks CR.  I'm not going to go asking the permit people anything about this.   I never do. 

I (had to) pay a large fee for the permit for my 200Amp heavy-up (plus a bunch of other work), and the County never even sent anyone out to actually inspect the work at all.  I had one of the best local contractors do the job, but they should have inspected it anyway.  It confirms my attitude that building permits around here are just another tax revenue and have nothing to do with safety or public service. 

I'm also not worried about a portable CCST line going across my yard.  No one or nothing is out there, and I have 7 foot fence, lit all night every night (the locals call it Fort Jess).  Also, I would buy the best quality CCST made, if I decided to do this. 

My neighbor is a long serving journeyman guy who takes care of giant Govt and private buildings HVAC, electrical, etc.  My plan is to help him with his house and see how it goes.  If he doesn't blow anything up, I may then do mine.

I'm a bit of an overkill survivalist mentality guy, so I am liking this plan, though my gasoline setup is really all I probably need.  And most of our MANY local gas stations are on backup generators themselves, so unless we have some real disaster, gasoline (with corn) should always be available.

I got rid of my gas grill long ago, and the mice that had moved in there were pretty pissed off about it.   

[¿spoom]

I want to bring this back up again, because I just learned something I never heard of before, and I know some guys here have more technical gas fitter knowledge than I do (which is practically none).

I always assumed if you wanted to run a natural gas generator (assuming you have natural gas to the house), it would have to be plumbed with code qualifying hard pipe from the house to wherever you will run your generator (below ground to the required depth, if it is across your yard).  I assumed anyone with the Generac whole house system had to have that plumbed the same way. (Those generators usually sit just outside the home on a small concrete slab, or something).

Now I have seen some Utubes discussing the use of CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing), which is somewhat flexible, being used to pipe natural gas out of the house, out to your generator.  And I think most (or many) generators can be converted to run on natural gas (with a kit that runs around $200).  

So here's the question:  Why couldn't I tap into my house natural gas line in my basement utility room, with hard pipe, a ball valve inside, and a ball valve outside, through the wall/foundation, with the pipe ready to tap just outside my basement utility room? (This I would pay done by a pro)  Then, when power goes out, I bring out my coil of CSST, properly secure it to the tap on my house/foundation wall, run it out to my generator shed (40 feet), hook the other end to my generator, and run it on natural gas.  I already have the 220/240 feed electrical extension to run from my generator shed, back to my outside box that back-feeds my 200amp panel back in the basement utility room.

While I have lost electrical power many times over the years, the only time I ever lost natural gas service in 26 years was for repairs being performed out on the lines under the street (once).

Here's your CSST:




My preliminary research shows that tens of thousands of homes that are natural gas piped internally with CSST are now in violation of newer code requirements that all CSST be grounded because it is at risk for being struck by lightening.  So I would have to figure out a way to ground my portable line when it is to be connected to run my generator.  I could already have a ground rod in place and simply add that as an additional hookup before powering up the generator.  Or, run a ground rod permanently to the outside ball valve/hard pipe exiting the foundation, if that qualifies.

For those of us with natural gas, it would beat the hell out of having to keep and store and treat and rotate stored gasoline, and constantly worry about gummed up carbs.

So what do you say?


(Please don't tell me this is something that would require a freaking permit every time it was hooked up, or unhooked)
    

 

I imagine it would depend on local codes, but physically it is done all the time. I had pipe run underground from my basement to a detached garage, where it comes up through the sill plate 2x4. There's a gas-rated ball valve and then a gas-rated female quick disconnect like an airline ARO fitting. That fitting is for the factory equipped plastic covered flexible metal CSST tubing (w/male QD fitting) of my Weber natural gas grill.      

[Tx Bohemian]

It lives.

Got the wheel attached. Oil, Gas.

Started first pull.

Battery had no charge but charges whist the gennie is running. Came with a set of tender cables.

Now it's running for 30 mins and then I'll change the oil.

I bought this one.

I went with the dual fuel so I will have a propane tank on standby if TSHTF.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009RBKGZC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know I know it's not  a Honda, Generac etc.

It's not your wallet either. 

Arrived well packed. No damage.

Bloody quick shipping from Amazon. UPS guy noticed the furniture dolly I left outside my garage and put the box on it.

UPS guy 

Fantastic!

If you ever need it (here's hoping that will never happen!) I'm sure you'll be glad you took the time to get set up long before!
I know I was! Like I said, that's one headache I didn't have to deal with, Lord knows there's plenty other things to do during that time!!!

One more suggestion ( if you haven't done this already):
When you get it running again plug in a drill or light just to make sure the electric plugs work.  I heard a story of a guy who bought a generator, ran it every month or so for a few years to make sure it ran.  Unfortunately when he needed it during an emergency found out then the plugs didn't have juice to them. The electrical part was bad or not hooked up right.

Ironically during this discussion I was gathering "Hurricane preparing" items (not sure what Issac is going to do) including rigging up a generator extension cord also.
After dealing with Harvey last year and seeing how we could improve our "recovery" my SIL sent his  guys over to install a "transfer switch" which has a house plug that looks like yours.
So now I intend to hook everything up to make sure it works, unfortunately we're nursing one of our Great Danes back to health after needing emergency surgery last week, so the test will have to wait a few more days.

[..]

It lives.

Got the wheel attached. Oil, Gas.

Started first pull.

Battery had no charge but charges whist the gennie is running. Came with a set of tender cables.

Now it's running for 30 mins and then I'll change the oil.

I bought this one.

I went with the dual fuel so I will have a propane tank on standby if TSHTF.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009RBKGZC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know I know it's not  a Honda, Generac etc.

It's not your wallet either. 

Arrived well packed. No damage.

Bloody quick shipping from Amazon. UPS guy noticed the furniture dolly I left outside my garage and put the box on it.

UPS guy 

One more suggestion ( if you haven't done this already):
When you get it running again plug in a drill or light just to make sure the electric plugs work.  I heard a story of a guy who bought a generator, ran it every month or so for a few years to make sure it ran.  Unfortunately when he needed it during an emergency found out then the plugs didn't have juice to them. The electrical part was bad or not hooked up right.

 

Thanks. I'll have to bite my electrical dunce bullet and plug the house in.

After turning the street supply OFF. 

[..]

Changed the oil this morning. Bloody fiddly. Took longer than a Valkyrie oil change. Put synthetic in.

Found the propane tube tucked up inside the generator housing. A section had melted.

No mention of it in the set up procedure in the accompanying manual or online pdf.

Called Duromax. They told me to call Amazon because it was an Amazon direct order. Spoke to a young woman in India who put me on hold a couple of times whilst she researched the problem. She then passed me to a young Indian guy who put me on hold whilst he researched the problem.

Surprise! They couldn't ship me the part and offered me a 1/3 discount rebate. OK, I'll take that.

Called Duromax and they are going to ship the tube to me.

[carolinarider09]

I have not figured out how to post pictures yet, so this is all text.

This thread and the assault by Florence on the Carolinas redoubled my desire to provide emergency power to my home.

When I built the house, I included a separate system that could be supplied from an outside source.  At the time money was an issue and while I could have more easily added a full house standby generator I did not opt for that. 

It was not a priority at the time so, when I went to check and verify the setup was ready for a portable generator I found that is was not.

Now it is. 

My setup consists of an outside waterproof/resistnat four prong 220/240 volt 30 amp connector (like Britman's).  It feeds a separate four breaker sub panel which is independent of the main house power.

There are four breakers in the sub panel.  One for the refrigerator and microwave, one for the TV and support equipment, one for the outdoor freezer, and one upstairs which will be used to supply LED lighting , the security system and the inverter that powers the internet connection and other support equipment. 

The generator will be a Honda Inverter system that will run on Natural Gas.  The generator comes plumbed for gas but it will be converted to natural gas after arrival on site. 

A natural gas connection will be plumbed to the same general location as the generator electrical connection.

The generator will be stored in a nearby shed and will be rolled out connected and started when needed.

Load connection to the system will require that load be manually transferred (unplugged and plugged) to provide power.  The connections are next to the normal load connections for the devices. 

Issues.  It is a plug and play system requiring a decision to transfer to the backup generator. 

Loading does not include HVAC system. 

The supply cable and natural gas connection will be above ground.

Any comments would be appreciated. 

[scooperhsd]

It may not be the gold-plated best solution, but it sounds like one that will do what you're asking it to do.

DO you have a way to cook when the main power is out ? Gas range / cooktop,  I see you have microwave oven accomodated. What about heating water ? Are you on public water or a well ? If on a well - you should figure out a way to power the well pump in addition.

[Jess from VA]

It sounds pretty well thought out CR.  

The only difference between yours and mine, is that my back-feed plug powers my whole electrical panel directly.  That setup was done by the same ace contractor that did my whole 200A heavy up.  I've used it many times (with the necessary precautions, like throwing my main pole power off) and it works fine.

I do have to throw my main and all 220s off (and in practice, I throw pretty much everything off, then bring up the circuits I want slowly once fired up and plugged in).

I am holding off on the natural gas conversion (for now) only because my power loses over the last few years has dropped to almost none.  It was never bad, but it used to be more often and longer durations.  My next door neighbor is planning a natural gas conversion generator hookup, and I'm going to try and watch and help and learn.  Then we'll see.

Of course, if the big one hits (whatever that is), I'll be sorry.

I guess my only question is... since your main panel and special generator sub panel both power the same things (everything doesn't overlap, but some of it does), when you power up the sub panel, does it back feed the main panel?  Is there some switch that knocks the whole main panel off when using the generator sub panel?

[2KVISRiderDan]

Wow, this thread contains a lot of great ideas, warnings, and links to make your short or long term power loss more tolerable but every one of them could silently kill everyone in your house without a CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR or two scattered around the house while running the generator!!!

[Jess from VA]

Even with all my doors and windows closed and locked, and my generator out in my shed 35 feet from the house? (exhaust vented out the shed door)

I do have a carbon monoxide detector in my bedroom, just over my utility room (which is where the fire will start, if any).  It's never come on, but when my power goes off, it beeps loud enough to wake the dead, so it's really a power loss in the middle of the night alarm.  And the led in it is also the night light so I don't stub my toes making the ritual nighttime yellow water donations.

However, if I ran a generator in an attached garage, I think it would be prudent to have perfect weather seal on the connecting door.  Though I think most people drag it to the garage door and crack the door open.   

[carolinarider09]

I'd never run an generator in an enclosed habitable space.  If you look at the Generac and Kohler websites you will see the recommendations for spacing from the house or other livable areas.

What is interesting is how close to the house they allow a full power system. 

The notion is, keep it away from air inlets to the house (how many houses have external air intakes???).

Keep it away from windows that could be opened.  But if you keep it 10 feet or more from the dwelling and not enclosed it should not be an issue.

I do have a carbon monoxide detector.  The question is, if you only have one, where do you put it?  Living room, dinning room, bedroom?
 

[2KVISRiderDan]

I live by the same rule with carbon monoxide detectors as I do my concealed carry weapons, one is none and two is one. I always have 3 detectors in my house, even without the generator being used.

[Jess from VA]

The question is, if you only have one, where do you put it?  Living room, dinning room, bedroom?

I think conventional wisdom would be a utility room, if you have one. (or closest to the highest risks)

Mine is basement gas furnace & water heater, electric washer, dryer, fridge and sump, main electric panel, and the gas and electric come in that room.  The only reason I didn't is because in my three level split, I couldn't be sure the alarm would wake me up in an upstairs bedroom.

So I put it where I sleep, even though the warning might come later than optimal.  If I'm up and around, hopefully I'll have a clue if I have a fire.  

Have a fire alarm in the stairwell too (with the two big air returns).  Also have an auto mini Halon fire extinguisher inside my electric box.  And regular fire extinguishers in the utility room, kitchen, and my bike shed.

In 26 years, all I've done is burn dinner in my kitchen gas stove a couple times.   Beep.  

[Tx Bohemian]

 Spoke to a young woman in India who put me on hold a couple of times whilst she researched the problem. She then passed me to a young Indian guy who put me on hold whilst he researched the problem.

DANG!!!

 I.........HATE........THAT!!!!!

Had a similar situation a couple of months ago.
I'm on co-op power but I was trying to get the in-laws house on a cheaper provider, going with the same one I had when we lived in town, which I had no problem with for the 12-15 yrs I was with them.
Had to call them probably a handful of times over the years with issues which they always resolved  promptly.

Well, evidently things changed with the company!
Keep in mind I wanted to buy their service!

When the third person came on the phone after waiting 15ish minutes (for each) and started with "your not at the right department..." JUST LIKE THE OTHER TWO, I just hung up!!

There's waaay too many providers out there to be putting up with this BS!!

I'm glad it turned out good for you, sorry for the hi-jack, but thanks for letting me vent!!

[..]

Generator worked fine for the 17 hours power was out. Turned off the generator panel.

Turned on the main house panel and some of the circuits don't work.

Receptacles, fans and lights in some rooms aren't working. Extractor fan in the master bathroom isn't working. Lights are working. Some receptacles in the kitchen aren't working, some are.

Suggestions.

I did turn off the main power a couple of times and turn on the breakers again starting with the lowest amp.

[carolinarider09]

Do you have a tool that can be used to "sense" the presence of voltage on the output side of the breaker?

This is the one I use to ensure power is off before working on a circuit.  It has proven to be very reliable.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1LAC-Voltage-Detector-1000V/dp/B00ATGPRRQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1544539025&sr=8-5&keywords=ac+power+detector

Bought mine at Lowes. 

I cannot think of a rational reason for your problem, particularly the problem with receptacles unless it is related, in some way, to the breakers. 

There is another thought, The AC coming in is in two phases with a neutral.  Power in the breaker panel is, if I remember correctly, distributed from one phase and then the other as in every other breaker.  So, if the power issues occur on every other breaker then it could be phase related to the main breaker. 

To troubleshoot, you will need the tool and then test the output side of every breaker in the panel to see if there is a pattern to the events. 

[f6john]

Generator worked fine for the 17 hours power was out. Turned off the generator panel.

Turned on the main house panel and some of the circuits don't work.

Receptacles, fans and lights in some rooms aren't working. Extractor fan in the master bathroom isn't working. Lights are working. Some receptacles in the kitchen aren't working, some are.

Suggestions.

I did turn off the main power a couple of times and turn on the breakers again starting with the lowest amp.

Do you have some GFCI outlets that could have tripped? They will usually affect multiple outlets and could affect a light circuit depending on how the house was wired.

[..]

Generator worked fine for the 17 hours power was out. Turned off the generator panel.

Turned on the main house panel and some of the circuits don't work.

Receptacles, fans and lights in some rooms aren't working. Extractor fan in the master bathroom isn't working. Lights are working. Some receptacles in the kitchen aren't working, some are.

Suggestions.

I did turn off the main power a couple of times and turn on the breakers again starting with the lowest amp.

Do you have some GFCI outlets that could have tripped?

No.

[..]

Georgia Power tells me I have the correct voltage etc coming to the house meter.

I will have to get an electrician in to check the breakers for me.

Electricity is the work of the devil.