stock fuel valve internal o-rings that seal with ball

[Locomotive]

Hello all-

I'm a relatively new owner (third owner, first two kept the bike in sweet condition) of a '99 Standard. As far as I know the fuel valve is original and has never been rebuilt, which concerns me about risk of hydrolock. At first I was thinking of an aftermarket manual fuel valve, but, given the location and how it would awkward at best to reach an aftermarket valve while sitting on the bike, I am coming back around to refreshing the stock fuel valve.

I've been reading the various prior threads here about overhauls and modifications to the stock fuel valve, and I am leaning towards the overhaul + delete the vacuum function to make it 100% manual.

Here's my question: once the stock valve has the vacuum function deleted, it looks like the only sealing is provided by the ball seating into the small/medium o-rings that surround the ports coming from the  main and reserve tubes up into the tank- see the second photo in the fourth message in this prior discussion:
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,8943.msg201638.html#msg201638

So, once I delete the vacuum functionality, then it looks like the o-rings on those ports then become the first and only line of defense to make the valve shut off.

But it looks like both the factory and aftermarket rebuild kits focus only on the diaphragms, and do not include those o-rings.

Can anyone fill me in on whether there are sources for those o-rings- I'd prefer viton, but if anyone can even share the dimensions for those o-rings, that would be tremendously helpful.

Thanks in advance

[Dusty]

 Those o rings are actually a  1 piece formed rubber . They look like a pair of eye glasses. There is two round parts joined with a rubber  strip.  If you take all the guts out of the valve to make it manual they are your only defense. I prefer the vacuum  OEM valve over the aftermarket one . Lots of people have other views.

My $.02

Dusty 

[Jruby38]

Ditch the OEM POS and get a manual Pingel, the guality is day and night above.  No problems or worry about hydro lock for 16 years and 100k miles, and its easy to reach.

[Locomotive]

Those o rings are actually a  1 piece formed rubber . They look like a pair of eye glasses. There is two round parts joined with a rubber  strip.  If you take all the guts out of the valve to make it manual they are your only defense. I prefer the vacuum  OEM valve over the aftermarket one . Lots of people have other views.

My $.02

Dusty 

Thanks- do you (or anyone else) happen to know if that 'eyeglass shape rubber piece' comes with the Honda OEM rebuild kit? I haven't noticed it in online pictures of rebuild kit contents, but who knows how accurate the photos are.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Those o rings are actually a  1 piece formed rubber . They look like a pair of eye glasses. There is two round parts joined with a rubber  strip.  If you take all the guts out of the valve to make it manual they are your only defense. I prefer the vacuum  OEM valve over the aftermarket one . Lots of people have other views.

My $.02

Dusty 

Thanks- do you (or anyone else) happen to know if that 'eyeglass shape rubber piece' comes with the Honda OEM rebuild kit? I haven't noticed it in online pictures of rebuild kit contents, but who knows how accurate the photos are.

No, it doesn't.

[Locomotive]

Those o rings are actually a  1 piece formed rubber . They look like a pair of eye glasses. There is two round parts joined with a rubber  strip.  If you take all the guts out of the valve to make it manual they are your only defense. I prefer the vacuum  OEM valve over the aftermarket one . Lots of people have other views.

My $.02

Dusty 

Thanks- do you (or anyone else) happen to know if that 'eyeglass shape rubber piece' comes with the Honda OEM rebuild kit? I haven't noticed it in online pictures of rebuild kit contents, but who knows how accurate the photos are.

No, it doesn't.

OK, thanks, that seems lame that they do not, especially with what ethanol fuel seems to do to all fuel system rubber, and just rubber losing resilience over time, but glad that I now know.

[Lyle Laun]

Go with a Pingel

Lyle

[Dusty]

Those o rings are actually a  1 piece formed rubber . They look like a pair of eye glasses. There is two round parts joined with a rubber  strip.  If you take all the guts out of the valve to make it manual they are your only defense. I prefer the vacuum  OEM valve over the aftermarket one . Lots of people have other views.

My $.02

Dusty 

Thanks- do you (or anyone else) happen to know if that 'eyeglass shape rubber piece' comes with the Honda OEM rebuild kit? I haven't noticed it in online pictures of rebuild kit contents, but who knows how accurate the photos are.

No, it doesn't.

OK, thanks, that seems lame that they do not, especially with what ethanol fuel seems to do to all fuel system rubber, and just rubber losing resilience over time, but glad that I now know.

The  spring that pushes the ball against the rubber is pretty substantial. The o rings would have to deteriorate or crack to get leakage as long as the ball is centered on the o ring  that controls the off function.





If I remember correctly the  green is main and red is reserve port and the grey one is the off port.





Dusty

[Paladin528]

My OEM has been on the bike for 20 years.  I have done the cover set once.  Anything that lasts that long with only simple maintenance is far from a POS in my view.

[Bagger John - #3785]

My OEM has been on the bike for 20 years.  I have done the cover set once.  Anything that lasts that long with only simple maintenance is far from a POS in my view.

I had to do my '99 Tourer's cover set twice in two years. Last year's failure was a complete loss of fuel flow while the one in May of '15 at least allowed me to limp home.

Changed the set once apiece on my original ('00) Tourer, original ('00) I/S and second ('01) I/S. The first two at ~30k miles and the latter at ~15k.

I'm still puzzled about what caused the early failure of the second Tourer's diaphragm.

[RonW]

I'm still puzzled about what caused the early failure of the second Tourer's diaphragm.

My '07 Shadow 600 had a factory recall issued on that diaphragm a few years after I bought the bike new. The recall covered '08 too or something like that. It was replaced free. I assumed the dealership replaced it with a new and improved version. I *assumed* becuz the second diaphragm gave out last year and left me stranded on the freeway. Anyways, probably the factory received a bad batch from the diaphragm supplier.

Incidentally, TheMotorcycleMD on YouTube mentioned that the rubber behind the larger diaphragm may deteriorate exposing the mesh where upon it won't hold vacuum. I would think the same area could be damaged if you pulled too hard on the diaphragm while double-checking that the button was fully seated in the metal dowel.

[Ricky-D]

My OEM has been on the bike for 20 years.  I have done the cover set once.  Anything that lasts that long with only simple maintenance is far from a POS in my view.

I agree. The problem as I saw it was the "off" being between the "on" and "res". (Res - Off - On)

A positive feel when turning the fuel "off" was non-existent.

The only indicator was the feel of the ball bearing snapping into it's receptacle aperture. 

Any mis-alignment of the knob with the square stem would make that "feel" practically disappear, and could result in fuel still flowing.

***

[Paladin528]

ALL parts wear out over time and use.  Rubber especially.
Routine maintenance on your ride should include the eventual replacement of the Petcock.  The internal no-replaceable seals will eventually fail as will the diaphragms (this is why there is a kit for that)
you cannot reasonably expect a 20 year old bike with who knows how many miles on it to not need parts replaced.