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Author Topic: Borken easy out in bolt  (Read 2291 times)
Buffy1
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Posts: 15

Southeast Ohio


« on: November 09, 2009, 05:48:00 PM »

Started an easy task today that's turned into a monumental feat. Got a 4 degree trigger wheel for the IS and new timing belts. While removing the timing cover the bolt that has the sealant on it broke. I drilled though it and tried to remove with easy out (first mistake) broke the easy out in the bolt. Any suggestions on how to get the broken easy out, out? I have a die grinder, thinking about looking for carbide tip rotor or I could just thread the broken bolt and just fill the hole in the cover. I hate to do that though, half arse it.
Please, any suggestions would be appreciated.
buffy
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RoadKill
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Posts: 2591


Manhattan KS


« Reply #1 on: November 09, 2009, 05:56:50 PM »

You must heat the broken tap/easy out to a dull red glow and let it cool slowly. that will take the temper out and it will then drill like it was butter. I have had to heat them a couple times to get 'em soft. Remove EVERYTHING you can and be carefull not to get too much heat where ya dont want it.
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2009, 06:16:15 PM »

It also helps to run the motor and have those bolts warmed so they dont break as easily.  Id go for a ride and then come back and mess with it
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Buffy1
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Southeast Ohio


« Reply #3 on: November 09, 2009, 06:25:53 PM »

I'm not sure I can get the easy out hot enough without melting aluminum.
Thanks though, worth a try
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RoadKill
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Manhattan KS


« Reply #4 on: November 09, 2009, 06:44:22 PM »

I've done it before in alum, always had a stiff drink and said a few prayers and apologized for any throwing of tools and swearing before I start. trick is not to melt ANYTHING, just a dull red glow. Aluminum gets rid of the heat alot faster than the easy out will. go slowly. I have been lucky in the past but your other options dont look good either  Sad
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alph
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Eau Claire, WI.


« Reply #5 on: November 09, 2009, 07:40:36 PM »

Is it at all possible to drill several small holes next to the easy out?  I’ve had situations before were I was able to drill several 1/8” holes around the easy out, then grip it with a pair of needle nose vise grips.  Then a gain, it was with a ½” bolt and a 1/4” easy out…..

Either way, it’s a pain!! 

Good luck!
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Buffy1
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Southeast Ohio


« Reply #6 on: November 09, 2009, 07:43:06 PM »

I don't think. It's a 6mm bolt, with about a 4mm hole with easy out broke in it.
Keep them coming though!
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #7 on: November 09, 2009, 08:06:07 PM »

you could saw off the head of the bolt with 1/4" or so shaft...and glue it to the cover so it looks like its in, then cut off any metal sticking out of the hole flush and just not use that bolt....shouldnt hurt anything
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Robert
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S Florida


« Reply #8 on: November 10, 2009, 07:48:33 AM »

I may take some heat for this one but how about just leave it alone and glue the head of the bolt in. Look I know its not the proper way but its only a front cover bolt doesn't support anything and wont matter if its not there. Sometimes you can get the easy out loose by getting a pair of needle nose pliers and try to grab it in the recess and at least get it to wiggle. If you get this far then try to turn it out. Also sometimes a tap with a hammer and punch will loosen it up. It also can be drilled it will take a few bits but it can be done. Good luck no matter what you try.
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Printer Mike
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Eatonton, Georgia


« Reply #9 on: November 10, 2009, 10:08:39 AM »

I have had success with removing screws with stripped screw heads by using a Dremel with a flat grinding disk to create a slot so a flat screwdriver could be used to twist out the screw. I realize this broken bolt is a much tougher problem... just throwing this out...
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F6MoRider
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Lakeland, FL


« Reply #10 on: November 10, 2009, 11:26:59 AM »

You can purchase asbestos or a fire shield from most hardware stores (I think it's only available here in a 4x8 sheet).  Explain what you're trying to do, heat a specific area about the size of a dime, and see what they have. 

One you have a shield, cut/drill an opening no larger than the bolt.  Stabilize it over the hole and torch the bolt/easy-out through the small opening so as to prevent over-heating areas outside of the broken easy out.   Heat it to red hot and then let it cool.  Then drill it out.  Should lose it's temper and drill out easily.

Or, as suggested, file the face flat, and JB Weld the bolt head in place...and nobody will know it but you.
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mikeb
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vrcc-29271

dansville mi by lansing mi


« Reply #11 on: November 10, 2009, 01:29:20 PM »

well if your real talented you could use a wire feed welder and weld a nut on the broken off ez out than unscrew it. i have done this to a few broken bolts in the past the heat might help loosen the busted bolt too ..
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Buffy1
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Southeast Ohio


« Reply #12 on: November 10, 2009, 03:37:33 PM »

Carbide bit was the answer! I went to local Grainger this morning and purchased a carbide bit. The salesman told me that I would have to use a drill press or it would shatter using a hand drill. For $14 I thought I would give it a try before pulling the engine. Slow and easy with plenty of lubricant and it went right through. I then drilled out the bolt and tapped to correct size. All back together now and if the butt dyno is any indication, she sure likes the 4 degree trigger wheel.
 Thanks again for all the suggestions. This site rocks.
buffy
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fudgie
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« Reply #13 on: November 10, 2009, 04:18:39 PM »

I'll be watching this thread. I got a chrome engine hanger bolt to get out this spring. Maybe.
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Bob E.
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Canonsburg, PA


« Reply #14 on: November 11, 2009, 05:14:44 AM »

I'll be watching this thread. I got a chrome engine hanger bolt to get out this spring. Maybe.

Yeah...I there too.  I've got a broken alternator bolt to get out from when I installed the Kury Tranny Covers.  At least it is  the one on the outside.  I bought a right-angle drill attachmet...so I hope I can get it out without too much trouble.
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