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Author Topic: Air Cleaner to Carbs tubes - new question  (Read 1653 times)
CleoBen
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Posts: 60


2000 Interstate

Lewisburg. Ohio


« on: July 21, 2018, 08:08:07 PM »

Finished with the desmog installation and reassembling the airbox assembly.  The six air cleaner to carb boots appear to have some type of glue or sealant where they attach to the airbox.  Of course being 18 years old, that glue / sealant is no longer stuck or sealing anything.  

What is it, is it necessary, and what product would I use to seal these fittings to the airbox?

TIA,
CB

« Last Edit: July 24, 2018, 05:32:18 PM by CleoBen » Logged
2KVISRiderDan
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Posts: 250


Valrico, Fl.


« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2018, 09:50:07 PM »

When I removed my air box and carbs last year to replace the fuel rail o- rings and rebuild the carbs I was advised by an old school Honda mechanic to use Permatex weather-strip adhesive. It dries but stays flexible, which will be necessary when putting the air box back into the frame.. Be sure to follow the instructions on the package.
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2005 Yamaha Midnight Star SOLD
1997 Yamaha Royal Star Std SOLD
2000 Blue & Grey Interstate
2001 Black & Champagne Solo Interstate
1998 Blue & Cream Valkyrie Standard Roadsmith Trike
1997 Black Standard
DGS65
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Posts: 440


Time enjoy wasted is not wasted time

Nanuet, NY


« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2018, 12:55:20 PM »

As a boater I tend to use a lot of sealant products, I would think this would do the job well.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-Gallon/dp/B000Y8499G
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CleoBen
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Posts: 60


2000 Interstate

Lewisburg. Ohio


« Reply #3 on: July 22, 2018, 01:34:41 PM »

I have the Permatex in the garage.  Any tips for application and / or reinstallation?

Some of the sealant has obviously peeled away from the tube / airbox.  It's not crispy or flaky, but it's not tacky either.  Should I remove it all and reinstall with the new Permatex?  Will the twisting, turning, and cussing of airbox reinstallation break the seal of the new stuff anyway?

CB
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Hacked Valk
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Posts: 145


« Reply #4 on: July 22, 2018, 01:54:33 PM »

Same problem and I was advised to use high temperature RTV (silicon)
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The problem with humanity is: we have paleolithic emotions; medieval institutions; and God-like technology.
2KVISRiderDan
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Posts: 250


Valrico, Fl.


« Reply #5 on: July 22, 2018, 03:21:25 PM »

I can only speak of my experience with the Permatex  weatherstrip adhesive. I did peel all of the old adhesive off, then cleaned the mating surfaces with denaturex alcohol. The adhesive stuck well and flexed with the tubes during assembly.  I was so busy just trying to get everything back together and didn't think to take pictures.
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2005 Yamaha Midnight Star SOLD
1997 Yamaha Royal Star Std SOLD
2000 Blue & Grey Interstate
2001 Black & Champagne Solo Interstate
1998 Blue & Cream Valkyrie Standard Roadsmith Trike
1997 Black Standard
Carl
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Posts: 78

Friendswood, Tx


« Reply #6 on: July 22, 2018, 10:31:10 PM »

When I took mine off the first time, I had the same question.  After searching the forum and ShopTalk, my take was; reseal it if you want, but it is not necessary.  I've had the airbox off of both my bikes several times since then.  I have never resealed and haven't had any problems.
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #7 on: July 23, 2018, 05:00:33 AM »

When I took mine off the first time, I had the same question.  After searching the forum and ShopTalk, my take was; reseal it if you want, but it is not necessary.  I've had the airbox off of both my bikes several times since then.  I have never resealed and haven't had any problems.
+1
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #8 on: July 23, 2018, 08:05:51 AM »

Many years ago I resealed mine and the adhesive I used is still holding fine, even with the amount of flexing required to remove and reinstall the air box multiple times.  I think I used RTV silicone, after peeling the original stuff off.  Some say the sealant not really necessary, but I followed the logic that if Honda thought it was worth the trouble, I'll go to the trouble.
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Paladin528
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Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #9 on: July 23, 2018, 08:12:42 AM »

I have been running without it for 2 years.  No issues
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Cracker Jack
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Posts: 556



« Reply #10 on: July 23, 2018, 08:24:05 AM »

The only reasons sealer would need to be used is to hold the tubes in place while installing the airbox and to avoid unfiltered air from bypassing the air filter if the tubes don't fit airtight in the airbox because of tube distortion. cooldude
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CleoBen
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Posts: 60


2000 Interstate

Lewisburg. Ohio


« Reply #11 on: July 24, 2018, 05:34:48 PM »

Ready to drop the airbox in and noticed this t-fitting without a hose behind the carb bank.  One  hose goes up to the PCV valve, and I'm assuming the second goes down to drain out the bottom.  I don't remember removing a hose from this fitting during disassembly.

Also, what is the bleeder valve with the black cap for?

Any thoughts?

CB

« Last Edit: July 24, 2018, 05:39:57 PM by CleoBen » Logged
Dr K
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Posts: 66


Southern michigan


« Reply #12 on: July 24, 2018, 06:18:14 PM »

The bleeder is for the clutch slave cylinder   Wasn't there a hose up to the air box
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Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #13 on: July 25, 2018, 07:50:23 AM »

I hope this picture clears it up:

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CleoBen
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Posts: 60


2000 Interstate

Lewisburg. Ohio


« Reply #14 on: July 25, 2018, 03:01:23 PM »

Quote from: DrK
  The bleeder is for the clutch slave cylinder   Wasn't there a hose up to the air box?
I hope this picture clears it up:

Thanks DrK and Gryphon Rider.  I do have two open ports on the bottom of the airbox, and I plugged the one that went to the smog stuff.

CB
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