covey2008
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« on: August 02, 2018, 11:10:39 AM » |
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Hello, I’m a new to me 98 Valkyrie owner, and the bike has 45k on it, and shifts with a rather loud clunk from first to second, and I can feel that the gears are not meshing i.e. there is just a little bit of grind when shifting. The next upshifts are smooth. I have bled the clutch, and it seems to disengage the way it’s supposed to. I’ve read that the clutch slave cylinder gets pretty messy over time. I guess my question is for anyone who knows or has experienced something similar, and what the problem might be. Thanks in advance for any help. my email is covey2009@gmail.com
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2018, 11:14:50 AM » |
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What is the color of the brake fluid in the sight glass thinggy? If it’s brown it’s past due changing. Could just need bleeding. That would be the first course of action.
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covey2008
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« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2018, 11:23:24 AM » |
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I cleaned the reservoir, and bled the system until new DOT4 fuild was coming out.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2018, 11:32:08 AM » |
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What kind of shape is the brass bushing in the lever in ?
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Avanti
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« Reply #4 on: August 02, 2018, 11:32:59 AM » |
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I believe that the lack of timely maintenance of the brake fluid in both the brake reservoir and the clutch reservoir are in close running with the rear end maintenance. Brake fluid likes to attract moisture.
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covey2008
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« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2018, 12:15:39 PM » |
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The brass bushing is in good shape, and the lever operates smoothly, and tight, and yes I’m sure the brake fluid in the front, and rear brakes needs to be changed. The clutch reservoir was very dirty before I cleaned it
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2018, 12:24:09 PM » |
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All of the Valkyries I've ever ridden are extremely clunky in the 1st to 2nd shift. About the only thing you can do about it is a good synthetic oil and a firm, positive shift. There shouldn't be any grinding though.
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covey2008
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« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2018, 12:37:39 PM » |
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I’ve had a lot of different bikes over the years including Harley’s, and none have felt like this one.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #8 on: August 02, 2018, 12:57:10 PM » |
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I’ve had a lot of different bikes over the years including Harley’s, and none have felt like this one.
Without riding yours and comparing it, it's hard to say. But yeah, I've had 20-30 bikes in my lifetime, the Valk is the clunkiest I've owned.
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covey2008
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« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2018, 01:17:04 PM » |
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Well if its normal for this bike its definitely an odd one for a Honda
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9Ball
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« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2018, 01:20:39 PM » |
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You need to be a bit forceful on your 1st to 2nd shift. Yes, they are clunky. Like someone said, a good synthetic oil helps and also a different shift lever. The cbr1100xx shifter arm is a vast improvement, especially if you have a larger boot size.
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000
1999 Standard 2007 Rocket 3 2005 VTX 1300S
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JimC
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« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2018, 01:29:26 PM » |
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I have found that slight upward pressure on the shift lever just prior to shifting helps also.
But I agree, the Valkyrie has a hard 1-2 shift by nature. I have had several goldwings and none of them shifted like my 2 Valkyries.
Jim
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Jim Callaghan SE Wisconsin
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covey2008
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« Reply #12 on: August 02, 2018, 01:37:39 PM » |
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So if I am just slightly slow on the upshift the gears will lose synchronization?
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #13 on: August 02, 2018, 01:57:13 PM » |
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So if I am just slightly slow on the upshift the gears will lose synchronization?
I’m no transmission expert by any means. But I don’t think it has to do with synchronization but that the gears are square cut. At least that’s the way I understand it.
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Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #14 on: August 02, 2018, 04:03:34 PM » |
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I think if you make sure your slave and master have good fluid and no air in the system and as someone said that you put a little preload on the shifter and decisively upshift, you'll be fine and get used to it. It shouldn't grind, but it is clunky as everybody agrees. there are no synchros in there but it still shouldn't grind, and if it does continue to even after you master the shifting technique then probably your clutch isn't disengaging fully as it should.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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covey2008
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« Reply #15 on: August 02, 2018, 05:00:13 PM » |
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I will certainly give your suggestions a try, although it is unusual to need a “technic” for shifting a motorcycle. I have a CDL, and I am used to truck transmissions being different but I’ve never had it in a motorcycle, and thanks for the response.
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Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #16 on: August 02, 2018, 05:20:33 PM » |
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Yeah I've also owned scores of bikes over the last 45 years but I think shifting the valk is a little unique partly because of that dog-leg shifter that sticks out like 5 inches from the transmission case--one of the real (and few) design challenges our bikes have.
I've heard a little grind a couple of times shifting just due to lazy foot or something, but when I preload i find it shifts pretty smoothly 99% of the time
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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mrgeoff
Member
    
Posts: 193
My 99 CT..."Liahona"
Augusta, GA.
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« Reply #17 on: August 02, 2018, 06:00:23 PM » |
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Its the nature of the beast...I find that I kick her down in first gear and then going to 2nd, she either goes in smooth or she clunks...might be how fast I am taking off, but it is nothing to really worry about...if you have a problem, she will let you know...but I think you are worrying about nothing...!!!
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mrgeoff/SANDMAN
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« Reply #18 on: August 02, 2018, 06:00:53 PM » |
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when I preload i find it shifts pretty smoothly 99% of the time
+1 I do it for all up gear shifts. Just a habit.
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Avanti
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« Reply #19 on: August 02, 2018, 06:24:48 PM » |
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Yeah I've also owned scores of bikes over the last 45 years but I think shifting the valk is a little unique partly because of that dog-leg shifter that sticks out like 5 inches from the transmission case--one of the real (and few) design challenges our bikes have.
I've heard a little grind a couple of times shifting just due to lazy foot or something, but when I preload i find it shifts pretty smoothly 99% of the time
I never liked that shift lever design so I completely redesigned it and got rid of that long off set lever.
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signart
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« Reply #20 on: August 02, 2018, 06:46:37 PM » |
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My two Valks shift just the way every other bike I have ever owned for the last 50 yrs. riding. You train them they way you want them to shift. Shifting with synthetic oil is noticeably smoother.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #21 on: August 02, 2018, 07:06:13 PM » |
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Yeah I've also owned scores of bikes over the last 45 years but I think shifting the valk is a little unique partly because of that dog-leg shifter that sticks out like 5 inches from the transmission case--one of the real (and few) design challenges our bikes have.
I've heard a little grind a couple of times shifting just due to lazy foot or something, but when I preload i find it shifts pretty smoothly 99% of the time
I never liked that shift lever design so I completely redesigned it and got rid of that long off set lever. Did you do the brace setup that someone posted on here a few years back ?
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sandy
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« Reply #22 on: August 02, 2018, 09:19:53 PM » |
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I have found that slight upward pressure on the shift lever just prior to shifting helps also.
But I agree, the Valkyrie has a hard 1-2 shift by nature. I have had several goldwings and none of them shifted like my 2 Valkyries.
Jim
To sum all this up; Use a good synthetic oil, preload the shifter with upward pressure on the shifter. When you pull the clutch, quickly complete the shift. These bikes have crosscut gears which don't mesh easily, but are necessary for strength to handle the torque.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #24 on: August 03, 2018, 06:12:12 AM » |
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If you are sure the fluid is good and the bleeding was good (no air bubbles). I mean really sure. Even re bleed to double check.
Then try shifting at a higher rpm. The higher the smoother
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Avanti
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« Reply #25 on: August 03, 2018, 11:51:28 AM » |
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Yeah I've also owned scores of bikes over the last 45 years but I think shifting the valk is a little unique partly because of that dog-leg shifter that sticks out like 5 inches from the transmission case--one of the real (and few) design challenges our bikes have.
I've heard a little grind a couple of times shifting just due to lazy foot or something, but when I preload i find it shifts pretty smoothly 99% of the time
I never liked that shift lever design so I completely redesigned it and got rid of that long off set lever. Did you do the brace setup that someone posted on here a few years back ? No, I design it so I could also have controls that are along side the valve covers aft of the tip-over guards.
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covey2008
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« Reply #26 on: August 03, 2018, 02:05:28 PM » |
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If you are sure the fluid is good and the bleeding was good (no air bubbles). I mean really sure. Even re bleed to double check.
Then try shifting at a higher rpm. The higher the smoother
. Actually in this case the higher the rpm the rougher the shift. If I shift below 2000 rpm it shifts quite smooth.
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Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #27 on: August 03, 2018, 03:22:08 PM » |
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You know this might sound funny but to me depending on which of my riding boots I'm wearing it's easier to shift. I have these Sidi boots for warm weather riding and I can actually feel the shifting linkage it's great. If I wear my thick cold weather riding boots I can't feel a thing I'm just rotating my ankle when it's the right time to.
Another thing to take a look at on your bike is the position of the shift lever, in case the PO may have changed it but looking at my bike it's just about dead level, which seems to be the correct position.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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ridingron
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« Reply #28 on: August 04, 2018, 06:03:27 PM » |
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There were a couple references to syn. oil. How long has it been since the last oil change? I have only ridden 3000-3500 miles on my Valk. My other Honda's shifting deteriorates after about 4000 miles on the oil. I went to syn. oil and the smoothness last longer.
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covey2008
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« Reply #29 on: August 04, 2018, 07:03:53 PM » |
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I changed the oil just after I got it as I thought that could be the problem, but I’m thinking that even though the clutch disengages at a stop it may not quit disengage fully when accelerating. I’ve bled the system completely but judging by how cruddy the reservoir was I figure it’s in the hole system, so a complete rebuild of the clutch system is in order, thanks for your response.
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