What would you do? Bringing bike back to life

[9Ball]

Intro...I had spinal fusion surgery in June, 2010 and put the 1999 standard Valkyrie up on the lift in my garage sometime during May of that year.  I added all fresh stabilized gas and ran the bike until I had it in the carbs, then shut off fuel and ran until it quit.  Drained the carb bowls and covered the bike.

After the first year of sitting, the old battery started getting weak and bike barely started.  Symptoms of plugged jets that I had cleaned in ‘07.  Decided that whenever I was physically able to ride again that carb cleaning was planned.  Pulled the battery.  Drained the gas each fall and replaced with stabilized gas.  Wanted to keep the tank protected and topped off.

Fast forward to this year and after over 8 years of sitting on the lift I started the overhaul.  I got my Rocket 3 up and running with all fresh fluids and she started like new.  Gotta love fuel injection.

Started at the top and did a complete overhaul of the carbs with the full redeyetech overhaul kit, all new jets and brand new pilots, new OEM petcock, all new tubing Dragon drool, vacuum lines, tank vent, pair tubing fuel lines, and carb drain tubing spider.  Split the carbs and replaced all the fuel and air o-rings and replaced all the rubber on the air cut valves.  Took almost 3 day’s but the carbs were factory fresh when I was done.  Replaced the radiator hoses while access was good.  Put it back together cleaning and polishing while I went and she fired right up.  Did the static carb sync with the brass strip as described in the redeyetech kit and will do a full carb sync when I get it back on the road and put some miles on it.

Here’s what else I’ve done so far...

Rebuilt the three brake calipers with new oil and dust seals.  Brand new SS pistons.
Installed new brake lines front and back
New Avon Cobras...old tires were in good shape but date codes from 2006 and 2007.
New drive dampers installed.
New 3 rear wheel o-rings and thrust washer.
New starter relay switch...old one was maintained yearly but was looking tired.
I have new timing belts, idler tensioners, and springs but haven’t gotten that far yet.

Now my question...sorry for the large lead-in.  While the front wheel and calipers are off the bike, should I rebuild the front forks?  I have all the tools, seals, bushings, and o-rings.  I noticed some weeping from the front left leg...really minor but still there.

My son and I installed the progressive fork springs back in 2001 with the tubes on the bike.  I’ve never refurbished front forks and wonder how difficult of a job...a bit apprehensive.  I’ve never had any maintenance by a dealer other than installing new tires (on the wheels that I removed and installed) and I’m a bit anal about using a torque wrench for everything that I do on the bike.

Is this an easy job?  Any critical things to look out for?  I figure that at some point I’ll need to rehab the forks and since all I’ll have to do right now is to remove the front fender.  Just lookin’ for some expert opinions.

Plan to have the bike back on the road within a week (or sooner if the fork maintenance is postponed).

[hubcapsc]

Is this an easy job?  Any critical things to look out for?

I did it, following the steps in the Honda Service Manual. I refilled the fluid
using the "measure from the top" method. Once it was apart, I noticed obvious
wear on some of the bushings, so I was glad I had purchased all the "wear parts"
the manual specified up front.

I have all the tools

This one?



Sometimes people fabricate this one different ways... I've used a real one. 

I fudged up a seal driver from PVC pipe, but later did another set with a real seal driver,
they cost about $50 but are nice...

-Mike

[..]

Some photos I took of my first bike

https://postimg.cc/gallery/36kismf6o/

[9Ball]

Thanks...big help.  Just a bit nervous going into a new area.  I’m rounding up the parts and tools to see if anything is missing.

[Dragon-6]

Go for it.  I did mine a couple of weeks ago,  having never done them before.   I watched the YouTube VTX fork rebuild first and had no problems.  One difference was that I left the forks on the bike.  Best of luck.

[baldo]

Some photos I took of my first bike

https://postimg.cc/gallery/36kismf6o/

Thanks for the pix. I've never done a set of forks and didn't really know what to expect. Very helpful.

[9Ball]

Is this an easy job?  Any critical things to look out for?

I did it, following the steps in the Honda Service Manual. I refilled the fluid
using the "measure from the top" method. Once it was apart, I noticed obvious
wear on some of the bushings, so I was glad I had purchased all the "wear parts"
the manual specified up front.

I have all the tools

This one?



Sometimes people fabricate this one different ways... I've used a real one. 

I fudged up a seal driver from PVC pipe, but later did another set with a real seal driver,
they cost about $50 but are nice...

-Mike

Mike, thanks for the info.  I got the forks disassembled, cleaned, and new seals and bushings installed.  I also replaced the steering stem bearings while all was apart.

I had bought all the Honda tools for the steering stem bearings and they worked so easy.  The bottom race remover is a slick working tool.  Probably a big investment at the time but a real energy saver.

I have a question and a problem with the right-hand fork.  I can’t get enough leverage with the fork held in a vice to torque to 72 lbf-ft for the special tool.  Can this be part of the assembly be torqued to spec after the forks are installed and the front wheel and axel are installed?  Seems that it will be a rigid assembly with all the pinch bolts tightened and the axel in place.  If not, I may have to take it somewhere.

Thanks for any help...

[hubcapsc]

I'm pretty sure my procedure didn't involve a torque wrench 



-Mike

[Jack B]

John, It's good to see you are well enough to ride again.
Be safe out there.

[9Ball]

John, It's good to see you are well enough to ride again.
Be safe out there.

Thanks Jack...it’s been a long time.  Our best to you and Lucy.

Do you still have any Valkyries?  I know you sold the Jade Tourer a while back but you also bought a green two-tone I/S if memory serves me.  I can still picture your cardboard Valkyrie...cool, rare item.

[9Ball]

I'm pretty sure my procedure didn't involve a torque wrench 



-Mike

That castle nut calls for 72 lbf-ft torque...hard to guess that much for me.  My “gorilla tight” isn’t what it used to be!   

Thanks for the help.

[Jack B]

John, It's good to see you are well enough to ride again.
Be safe out there.

Thanks Jack...it’s been a long time.  Our best to you and Lucy.

Do you still have any Valkyries?  I know you sold the Jade Tourer a while back but you also bought a green two-tone I/S if memory serves me.  I can still picture your cardboard Valkyrie...cool, rare item.

I still have the cardboard Valkyrie hanging on the wall.
The old Valkyrie's are gone I've been enjoying my F6B since, but a few weeks ago I picked up a 2015 Valkyrie to join my B. Great bike at a unbelievable price.

[JerryCS]

My front suspension was not to my satisfaction so something needed to be done. The seals were not leaking so seal replacement was not essential. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. I ordered all possible replacement parts if needed now or in the future. The majority rule here on the Valkyrie forum is 10 weight fluid for the forks. Then there is the suggestion of a little less fluid so the forks have more air breathing room. I used both methods.

I ordered the Progressive springs and they are about 0.75” shorter. Then, the initial travel distance on those springs takes very little pressure. It was obvious the bike would be 1” lower in the front. That is not acceptable for me. A spring 0.75” shorter is not progressive in my opinion. My original springs passed inspection so I put them back in and returned the Progressive springs. I can see where the Progressive springs would be OK for some people.

Draining the oil in the right shock revealed 2 ounces too much. I then put in 0.75 ounces less than what the manual calls for. I did likewise with the left fork. The results are better. The Valkyrie does not have the suspension of a lighter weight off-road bike but it is better than before.  I did not want to rely on fluid level. Fluid quantity seems more precise.
Both Fork spring length specs = 13.3” 
Right fork fluid specification is 22.7 US oz for GL1500C/CT. I subtracted 0.75oz.
Left fork fluid specification is 25.2oz. I subtracted 0.75oz.
I am riding at 489 feet elevation and outside temperature of 85 degrees.
I weigh 220 pounds and am 6’5” tall.

The tires used on the bike will most likely have an effect on ride comfort. Formerly I used Dunlop soft rubber tires. The existing tires are Dunlop Elite 3. They seem hard and tough. My rougher ride seemed to get worse when those tires were installed. The fork fluid change still makes a small difference in the right direction. When pressing the front brakes, the bike dips a little more than before. I have a more comfortable ride but a little less stability. I did a fairly tight turn at 80mph on the highway and the bike handles very well.

The right fork spring was removed. Since it passed inspection I did not remove the left fork spring. The left fork inner fork bolt takes a lock nut wrench 44mm, part number 07VMA-MZ0010A for removal. I would not remove that lock nut without the tool. It requires 72 foot pound of torque and there is no way I would put that much pressure on my shocks with a non-symmetrical force. If I develop an oil seal leak, I will order the tool on eBay. The amount of force to compress the forks to install the bolt is not for a fragile person. I used a long clamp tool with soft feet to compress the right fork for retaining washer insertion. At 75 years of age I do not have the strength of you young bucks out there.

Draining and filling was done with the springs installed. Enough pumping and the old oil will come out. I put all the new fork oil in the outer casing area. Then I was very careful to pump the fork as best I could. Then upon riding down the road I stayed on smooth roads and drove slowly to balance the fluid in the inner and outer chambers. With unequal levels I was afraid I might blow a seal on a big bump. After 10 or 20 miles I feel the bike is ready for rough riding.

I also rebuilt all carbs, the hydraulic clutch and all brake calipers. The bike is better than new.

I just finished a 55 mile ride on Texas hill country roads. I am happy with the old springs and the fluid modification. Thanks to this forum and its members for the much-needed advice.

JerryCS

[9Ball]

Well, the fork refurbish went well.  The only problem I had was torquing the left fork using the special tool to the required 72 lbf-ft specification until I had the fork back on the bike (with the wheel and axel installed).  While it was all apart I installed a new steering stem that I had bought many years ago to replace one that had some cosmetic issues.

Having the tools for removing and replacing the steering stem bearings was also a super easy job.  A lot of these tools are no longer available (or really hard to find...even when I was looking for them back in 2009).

I have had a slight leak from the left fork leg that started sometime before 2009 which was noticed during Americade rally that year.  Since I was going through all the Valk mechanicals this was a job that  shouldn’t be postponed any longer.

One observation during the maintenance was the condition of the oil...more specifically the difference between the forks.  When my son and I installed the progressive fork springs in 2001, we did it without removing the forks from the bike using the “Laine Eton” method from Shop Talk.  The Colorado HCC club had a set of loaner tools to do the swap.  We used a syringe and skinny tubing to suck out the oil that was added at the factory, but we didn’t clean or flush the forks before adding the fresh oil.  We replaced the oil by volume using Honda SS-8.  

When I drained the oil out during this current rebuild:

   - The right fork oil was red, had some suspended “cloudy” contamination but overall not too bad for
      17 year old oil.

   - The left fork oil was black, loaded with particulates, and gritty.  There was no red color remaining
      to identify it as SS-8.

Does anybody have a similar experience and a possible explanation for why the oil condition was so different?