Valkyrie Mantainance Extravaganza

[Valkocalypse]

I purchased a '98 standard last week and now I am getting ready to sit down with it and get it running up to snuff.  The bike had been sitting for at least a year in someone's garage with bad gas in it but other than that appears to be immaculately maintained.  A previous potential buyer had dropped it on the way out of the previous owner's driveway and broke the mount for the mirror on the right side (part of the master cylinder).

Here is the list of what I intend to do to it right off the bat:

1. Oil and filter change

2. Air cleaner replacement

3. Coolant change

4. Final drive gear oil change

5. Valve Clearance check/adjustment

6. Carb sync

7. New tires

8. Check/replace timing belt if needed

There was some dry rot in the tires (pretty minimal, barely visible) I wonder if this is an indication that there may be some dry rot on the timing belt. 

I would like to know if anyone has had a similar problem with the mirror mount.  I am considering getting an aftermarket mirror mount clamp because the master cylinder works beautifully and a new one is going to cost me about $85.  Do standard HD mirror mount clamps fit the bars on a valk?  And if so will the valk's original mirror fit in the hole. 

Is there anything on this list someone might do to a bike that has been sitting for a while like this one has that I may have neglected to mention in my list?  Is doing a compression test in this process important enough to buy a tester before I do the rest of this and ride it?

For tires I am ordering a set of Avon Cobras.  The lowest price estimate I have gotten on installation has been $55 a tire.  Does anyone in the Memphis area know of a place or person that will do it right for any less? At approximately $200 a tire I'm looking to cut corners wherever it is reasonable to do so.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post.  Any opinions or advice are readily welcomed.

[Farther]

You probably know this but change the gas and run a couple of full doses of Techron through the bike.  You didn't say the mileage but the timming belt is probably ok.  If you are changing the timing belt you may want to consider a 4 or 6 degree trigger wheel.  Check for a used master cylinder on ebay.  Change the brake and clutch fluid too.

[Valkocalypse]

My original plan was to run some sea foam through with the new gas.  You think techron would be better?

The bike has just over 20k miles on it.

I also failed to mention the problem exhibited by the bike at the moment.  It doesn't idle.  I rode it home not realizing it had bad gas in it.  Do you guys think its just the bad gas?  If when I replace the gas and mess with the idle screw it still doesn't idle what would be the next thing to check?

[OverdueBill]

While the rear wheel is off, check and lube the splines on the drive and the drive shaft.  For gas treatment, Sea Foam is popular and Techron is said to be a little stronger.  Sounds like the small jets are clogged.  Hopefully one of these products will clean them up.  Make sure you check out the Old Tech Archive at the top of the page.  Lots of stuff about anything you want to do to the bike.  Enjoy your new bike!

[Bob E.]

In addition to the driveline stuff already mentioned, I'd probably change out the clutch and brake fluids, and check/replace the brake pads.  As for the timing belt, with only 20K miles it is probably ok.  I believe the manual says to inspect the belt at 100K, if I remember correctly.  I know I have about 40K on my 1999 and it still has the original belt.  But if you want to change it out just because, you can get a generic belt from NAPA this cheaper than OEM.  And be sure the timing marks stay lined up because having them out of line when the belt is changed could result in major internal damage as the pistons smash into the valves.

Your carbs are probably plugged.  Hopefully, you'll clear that up with the Sea Foam.  If not, you may need to pull them and tear them apart and change out the jets.  Several folks here have done it so I don't believe it's that bad of a job...but I've not done it myself to know for sure.  If you haven't done it yet, get a Honda Shop Manual...they are worth every penny for this kind of stuff.  You can actually download an electronic copy from Dag's site.  Until you've cleared up this problem, I wouldn't touch the sync adjustments because you'll just dial it out and as the carbs clear up, it will be way off.

For the tires, at $55 per tire, I would just go to Harbor Freight and buy their tire changer for under $100.  Then you can mount all of your own tires...and your friends' tires too...from there on.  That's what I did.

[fudgie]

Start from the top down. Do the fuel and carbs. Clean fuel and run seafoam or other stuff in the carbs. Might take a bit to get it 100%. do a complete rear end cleaning as described.

[qc-teky]

Valkocalypse, I have been changing my own tires and using dynabeads for balancing - they work great. No vibration, even up to 115.
I have a Yokohama Avid car tire on the rear and a Cobra on the front and love them both. Do a search on both boards for a link to
http://sporttour.com/store/index.html, they have the lowest prices for Cobras that I've found. If you want to change your tires, we
can do it. John

[F6MoRider]

Check ebay for the replacement part you need:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-Valkyrie-GL1500-FRONT-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e59178f79QQitemZ130343735161QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories  I found one there currently bidding 24.00.but do check out the store where there are lots of Valk items.

Don't know if I'd use other used parts.  Like my u-joint, I found quite a few on ebay for a buy it now price for under $10.00 but bought new for $90.72 cause I don't want to open her up again in 10k miles for the u-joint.

If you can't find it there, check http://www.hondapartsnation.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx for pricing for a new part.  They are the lowest cost OEM provider I've found  (only taxed if you are located in MI).

In addition to the items you mentioned, I'd also change the spark plugs.

[John U.]

The fact that it won't idle is a classic symtom of clogged slow jets. Seafoam or Techron might do the job, I think Techron is a bit more agressive. You might have to clean or replace the slow jets. Many of us have replaced them with 38s (35s are stock) because they are a bit more resistant to clogging. Ethanol is bad about that.
You might want to inspect the inside of your tank. I bought a I/S a few years ago that had sat for a while, the tank can rust from moisture in the atmosphere or in the fuel (ethanol again). My slow jets were clogged also, but they were clogged with rust. Techron won't cure that.

[X Ring]

On the Techron, dump the small bottle in the tank and fill it with fresh gas.  Try to get it started so the fresh fuel mixture is in the carb bowls and let it sit for a couple of days then try it again.  Might take several times to do it.  The members who tell you to take the carbs apart and clean them are telling you the best way to do it.

Marty

[Kelm1]

I'd check the upper rear shock bushings and any leaking of the intake o-rings. I replaced the o-rings (one leaking) and bushings (both shot) recently on my 99 I/S with 24K.

[SANDMAN5]

Probably a good idea to replace fuel and vacuum lines. Might also
want to check the petcock vacuum. I switched to a non-vac
Pingel.

[PAVALKER]

Here is an interesting read on the Shock Bushings for VTX's....  which are the same as the Valk.  I got the VTX 1800 F model lower shock bushings which are a hard nylon, and much better, and less expensive, than the stock rubber bushings.

Honda new green bushing no. 52489-HN0-671  (will fit VTX and Valkyire).  Much better than old stock rubber.  


http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242281&highlight=shock+bushing


I recommend a good flush of the hydraulic (brake and clutch) fluids, use synthetic fluid (less susceptible to moisture collection).  I believe Valvoline is available at your local Pep Boys.  

[alph]

This last summer I replaced all my radiator hoses and thermostat.  Probably didn’t need to, but when you’re that far into it, why not do it all!  An ounce of prevention….. you know the rest….