Paging Britman, Britman post up that page of links and tips you used to post for newbies.
If he doesn't i'll post it tonight.
Raymond
I emailed everything to him.
But here it is for anyone else.
The following is copied from a large number of VRCC'ers who all deserve our thanks.Honda Warranty Center:
Main #: 310-532-9811
Inhouse work #: 310-781-4034
American Honda Customer Service (310)783-2000.
NGK plugs DPR7ea9
http://bigbf.com/bigbf_shop/valve/index.htm Valve adjust
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/carlvalve.htm Valve adjust
http://bigbf.com/bigbf_shop/front_fork/disassembly/ Front fork disassembly
http://rattlebars.com/vtx/forktools.html Front fork pics
Fitting extra light on a Valk
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/foglites.htmlElectrical schematic for Valkyrie
http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/index.htmlValkyrie Tech tips
http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Maintenance/maintenance.html#maint-serviceinfo More Valkyrie Tech Tips
http://www.timskelton.com/valkyrie/how_to/index.htmValkyrie wiring
http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/valkyrie.htmlhttp://www.rattlebars.com/goodies/goodies.htmlValkyrie ignition info
http://www.jkozloski.com/ignition_trouble_shooting.htmUniversal Joint Maintenance
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.htmlKnown Valkyrie problems
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/Known%20Valkyrie%20Problems.htm16953-MV9-000 – Petcock rebuild kit
Final drive O-rings from allorings.com
Part # B1000-036
Part # B1000-226
Part # B1000-129
2 of the bags are 50 ct each, one is 100. Can't find the packing slip but I think all three together were under $20.
http://www.rattlebars.com/cart/bushings.htmlGarys bushings
These bushings are manufactured by fellow Valkyrie enthusiast Gary Eckermann to exacting standards from LF-1800a Uniroyal 80A polyurethane. Some features include - quite a bit harder than the OEM rubber, it still gives, but not like the rubber part - made to have some clearance to the I.D. of the shock eye. The shock eye is tapered, but the bushing is not. This provides a place for the material to displace into when compressed. When you see it installed, it all makes sense. These will likely never wear out and will give your Valkyrie or VTX real boost. Normally, on VALKYRIES only the top bushings on each shock need replaced so you'll need one pair. On the VTX, both bottom and top go quickly (the picture shows a bad OEM bottom bushing after only 4,000 miles) so check and see if you need to order two sets. Both the top and bottom on both bikes are the same.
Gary says: "Polyurethane bushings have been in use for quite a while. They are popular among sports cars enthusiasts, hot rodders, and have many industrial uses. I chose a high grade of polyurethane, often spec'd for military use. It is harder than the OEM rubber, but still damps out jarring. Riders have put many thousands of miles on these, and I have yet to see any with visible wear."
HOW TO ORDER: (do not call Rattlebars)
Sold in pairs, for replacement of all four bushings, get two sets.
Send a personal check or money order for $12 per pair of bushings to :
Gary Eckermann
311 N Gardner
Burlington, Wa 98233 (360)757-8886
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Make: Honda | Model: GL 1500 C/CT/CF/CD (97-02) - Valkyrie/Tourer/Interstate Front Rim Size: 3.50x17 | Rear Rim Size: 5.00x16
DUNLOP
Front Tire : Elite 3 | Size : 150/80R17 | PSI/Loaded : 36-factory psi
Rear Tire : Elite 3 | Size : 180/70R16 | PSI Rear/Loaded : 40-factory psi
Avon at 1-800-624-7470. You can ask for Keith, John, Michael, or Scozzi?... one or all can help you.
Avon Venom R Series 150/80HR17 front.
Avon Venom R Series 180/70HR16 rear.
It's a four digit code on the end of the line beginning with DOT in letters about 1/4 inch high. First two numbers are week of manufacture and last two are year. For example, mine is 4703, which would be the end of July in 03
Motorcycle Customer Service Dept.
American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
P.O. Box 2220
Torrance, CA 90509-2220
(310) 532-9811
E-mail addresses:
Malcolm_Geffon@ahm.honda.com Arthur_Ridgway@ahm.honda.com Molybdenum disulfide paste
Generic parts for Valk
http://www.jkozloski.com/generic_parts.htmWheel Bearings
1997 Front 6004-2RS
1998-2000
Front, 6204-2RS or 6204LL
And all models left rear 6204-2RS or 6204LL
(same bearing different mfg.) 6204 is size, letters indicate sealed both sides.
1997-2000 All right rear 5204 Double Row Angular Contact Bearing
I updated the list. I get a lot of people asking about bearing numbers. The number 5204 is the size the suffix is for the "options" like seals. A Z means sealed on one side, a ZZ means seals on both sides. A RS means seal on one side a 2RS means seals on both sides. A C3 means an "extra clearance" bearing for high heat/speeds. It would be impossible to list all the suffix definitions, then some even put the seal designation in the prefix! So some times you just gotta ask for a 5204 with seals on both sides.
Part #: HO-5366935
Honda front wheel bearing, fits either side, 98 and 99 only.
Part #: HO-2811412
Honda right side rear wheel bearing-fits all Valkyrie models.
Part #: HO-4517710
Honda left side rear wheel bearing. Fits all Valkyries.
Part # 16953-MV9-000
Petcock repair kit
Cable A (Pull) # 17910-MZ0-000 will break more than Cable B (push) # 17920-MZ0-000.
Wal Mart Battery
Everstart #ES14BS
Yuasa YTX14-BS
NAPA Auto Parts. Valk headlight bulb
Part # BP1210/H4
Description = LMP Bulb
Cost? $10.99
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Measure the oil WITHOUT the springs. I have found that the actual fluid capicity is better measured by volume.
Right Fork Standard & Tourer: 22.7 +/- .08 US oz
Right Fork Interstate: 22.6 +/- .08 UA oz
Left Fork Standard & Tourer: 25.2 +/- .08 US oz
Left Fork Interstate: 24.8 +/- .08 US oz
Remember, the left leg is the special tool leg and the spring is under pressure. Expect it to "pop" free.
Also remember to count or measure the threads on the damper rod tops.
After some research I have come up with the following filters that fit GL1500 bikes and possibly GL1800.
Wal-Mart ST filters are made by Champion Labs who also make STP, Bosch and Mobil-1 filters.
ST6607 52 sq in of media. same size as OEM
ST7317 62 sq in media same dia 1/2 longer then OEM
ST3593A (160 sq in? not confirmed) larger dia but shorter than ST3717
all of the above have the required 8-11 psi by-pass valve.
this site has cut open 6607 and 7317 filters
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001207 this site has a cut opened ST3593A and is a cross reference with the honda/toyo filter from the oildrop site.
http://community.webshots.com/album/81528451STiyTw It looks like the 3593 is the best for filter area and flow. Cost is $2 at Wal-Mart.
Vacumn hoses
5/32" ID I agree. I just replaced mine and I used the silicone hose at NAPA, part #H467, 72" length, 5/32" ID, prepackaged. Use the string method as it saves time and frustration. To reinstall the airbox use this link
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/AirBox%20VentHose/venthose.htmHere is basically what I (you?) will be doing to remove the rear wheel/tire:
1) Take out four bolts (to remove shocks)
2) Take out one bolt (holds brake caliper)
3) Remove axle nut & axle (to remove wheel/tire)
4) Remove nuts on engine hangers and insert a piece of ¾” rigid tubing between the exhaust and swingarm to force the engine hanger bolt away from the swingarm
Everything else is done to help you do these 4 things.
Raise bike on lift, just slightly, to remove shock bolts & shocks. Then lower bike, with lift, just until axle is above and clear of the exhaust so it can be removed. Take out the bolt holding the brake caliper in place. Remove axle nut & axle, spacer, and brake caliper (hang caliper with wire up & out of the way), slide wheel/tire to the left to clear the final drive, lift bike enough to remove wheel/tire out from under the fender.
Use Sargeant Joe's write-up too (in Shop Talk) if it helps.
Most, if not all, of this will be clear to you once you start doing it. Everything is right there for you to see, no hidden stuff.
And, yes, take your time. If it takes you a week, so what. You will have saved some money & have gotten to know your bike that much better. And if you ever "have" to do this, (an emergency breakdown for example), you will know how. And you will also become another source of information for anyone else who may need assistance in this matter. Spread the news so-to-speak.
To re-install, do the same in reverse.
First if the starter turns by hot wiring it, check the starter button maintenance from Chet’s site:
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html If it’s not that then it might be the side stand switch as that happened to me. Here is a re-post from my problem and possible solutions from Frammis.
Posted By: Airetime <
Airetime@Digitalputty.com>
Date: 6/2/2003 at 09:00:20
Ok, most know that I had a problem with my Valkyrie on the 400-mile road trip this past weekend from Jawz posting it here. Thanks for your input, I resolved the problem with it cutting out by tightening both the POS and NEG post down and checking the connection with the ICM unit. All fixed and back on the road?
Yep, sort of, as that solved one problem but not another that has been a PITA. First let me say that I have checked both manuals without success. Let me also say that I rely heavily on those who know how to handle electrical problems, as this is one of my weak spots and I could sure use some help!
Let me describe what it does, what I think it is and get your input. First it does not do this on a consistent basis so that it is very difficult to check it. OH well here is the problem;
After riding it for awhile, I stop and then when I restart it, everything is fine as it starts well enough until I bring the kickstand up, (everything is still good and the yellow light goes out) I grab the clutch (still everything is normal)and kick it into gear,(PROBLEM) it simply cuts out. It doesn’t die, it cuts out like you have hit the cutoff switch or had the stand down. Now mind you, it does not do this every time, it’s more like every 10th, 23rd or 37th time. It has a mind of it’s own! I love checking things like this! I have to go through the process 3 or 4 times before it actually works again. I also keep the revs up and it helps, maybe? The thing is, if it was the switch, wouldn’t it light up the yellow “side stand switch on the instrument panel” if the switch was the culprit?
I believe it is the kickstand switch because it acts just like having the side stand down. I have checked the connection, sprayed the switch with WD-40 etc. I am about ready to just order a new switch but that would be what the Dealers do now-a-days so I don’t want to simply start replacing things. How about some input from you guys/girls who may have had the same problem or who are “real wrenches” and not shade tree mechanics like myself ? Sure would appreciate it.
Anyone?
Re: Ready! Start! Die! - PITA Problem!
Posted By: Frammis
Date: 6/2/2003 at 10:41:57
In Response To: Ready! Start! Die! - PITA Problem! (Airetime)
My money is on the kickstand switch. Check this diagram and I will tell you how and why this circuit works.
http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage06.html, plus the page JAWZ posted.
First, the neutral switch. This is a single pole switch. When closed, it connects to ground. If you have a neutral light, then this switch is functioning because this switch provides ground for both the ICM and the light at the same time via the diodes (page 5). This is sort of the master switch. When it provides ground, it does not matter what the position of the kickstand or clutch switch is. When the bike is in gear, something else must provide ground or the bike dies.
Next, check the kickstand switch. This is a double pole switch. When it is down, it provides the ground for the kickstand light. When it is up, the ground to the light is cut (the light goes out), and the ground is switched to the ICM so that the engine will run. So, you could have a working kickstand light but still have a faulty switch if it does not snap or stay in its second position.
The clutch switch actually only matters for starting. If the bike is in neutral, then the neutral switch provides the ground for the starter solenoid and the clutch switch is irrelevant. If the bike is in gear, then the ground circuit goes through the clutch switch and then to the kickstand switch. If the kickstand is down, no ground is created at the start solenoid so the bike doesn’t start. If the kickstand is up, it completes the ground circuit via the clutch switch to the start solenoid. In short, if the kickstand is down, the clutch switch doesn’t do anything. When the kickstand is up, the clutch switch only controls the starter solenoid.
Thus, the kickstand switch has to be the culprit. It is a double pole switch so it could be half bad. The neutral switch clearly works since you can start the bike with the clutch out and you have a light. The clutch switch cannot be the culprit since it only controls the starter solenoid, not the engine kill.
Perhaps you can swap the wires on this switch or ground them to see if this is the problem. Otherwise, you do have an intermittent problem elsewhere, either the band angle sensor, the ignition switch, the kill switch, or possibly the ICM itself
Thanks Frammis, question for you
Posted By: Airetime <
Airetime@Digitalputty.com>
Date: 6/2/2003 at 11:26:45
In Response To: Re: Ready! Start! Die! - PITA Problem! (Frammis)
I think that the side stand switch is probably it. What you say makes sense (even though I had to re-read it a couple of times, me being electrically challenged) Usually I can figure things out with the help of the manuals but when it is not consistent it drives me nuts. Jawz is going to come over later today and use his voltage tester. I am also going to make sure that the green connector for the switch under the frame cross member is tight. If the connector is not firmly connected, would a faulty connection there cause the problem and to be inconsistent?
Absolutely!
Posted By: Frammis
Date: 6/2/2003 at 12:34:25
In Response To: Thanks Frammis, question for you (Airetime)
What is interesting about the electrical design of the Valk safety mechanisms is that they all ultimately GROUND the ICM. If the ICM isn't grounded via the neutral switch or the kickstand switch, then it is NO GO. Thus, a bad or intermitent connector would indeed break ground and create problems.
Petcock o-ring Part #
16958-KM9-005 (O-RING: 14.2 X 1.3)
Petcock repair kit, Part # 16953-MV9-000,
Eliminated Noise coming from the Clutch Slave Cylinder
Had quite a noise (similar to the loose belt noise - squeal - you sometimes hear on a car) coming from the Clutch Slave Cylinder area. Noise occurred both when moving and at a dead stop. The noise went away when the clutch was pulled in.
Took H-2’s advice (below) and lubricated the end of the push rod in the center of oil seal, with white lithium grease, in the clutch slave cylinder. The noise has been completely eliminated. (Lithium Grease is probably not the lubricant of choice, but it's all I had at the time).
One of the few pieces of advice I would add to H-2’s description below is the 10mm bolt, on the top end of the clutch bleeder pipe, needs to be removed and I don’t quite agree it is a “simple half hour fix”, at least not for someone as mechanically challenged as me. Anyway, can’t thank you enough H-2, for your help on this and I hope someday I have the opportunity to return the favor.
Bill
H-2:“I had the same problem last spring. A fellow here helped me fix it. There is a pushrod between the slave cylinder and the clutch with a seal around it to prevent the oil from going into the slave cylinder. The problem on mine being that the pushrod spins in that seal a little when the clutch is fully released. The pocket that the rod fits into in the slave cylinder was dry causing that little pushrod to make one troublesome sounding squeek when the lever was out. I pulled the sidestand and bracket that holds it to the frame, removed the slave cylinder and put a dab of moly paste in the pocket where the pushrod sits in the slave cylinder. I rode the valk 6,000 miles last summer and no noise at all. Hope this helps it was a simple half hour fix for mine.”
How to desmog Valkyrie
http://hammer.prohosting.com/~schutzrs/desmog.htm------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
5/32" X 72"Silicone Vacuum Hose
72" length, 5/32" ID
Here's a question again: Which Petcock?
Posted By: sasha47 <
asb@mossww.com>
Date: 4/23/2004 at 00:28:49
Among the following models:
1311CH, 1311CRV and 1311CD
which one to use? the 1311 CRV, Single outlet Reserve Valve Vacuum?
Additional, Short Line Filter, is it recommended?
Thaks for your imput
Posted By: Wil
Date: 4/23/2004 at 05:15:47
In Response To: Here's a question again: Which Petcock? (sasha47)
This is what the confirming order looked like for this item:
Item 2
Product ID: P1311-CH
Product Name: Pingel - Fuel Valve
Attributes: A. Standard Pingel (1311-CH),
Product Price: $73.95
Quantity: 1
Additional fuel filter is not required. The built-in screen is sufficient.
Wil
Posted By: Þrúðr <
eckfam@verizon.net>
Date: 4/23/2004 at 06:25:34
In Response To: Here's a question again: Which Petcock? (sasha47)
Also you can order a rebuild kit.
Re: petcock
Posted By: Brian in B.C. <
iemiller@shaw.ca>
Date: 3/10/2003 at 15:16:41
In Response To: petcock (bob)
I was able to buy a diaphragm kit which included the two diaphragms, the spring and the end plate that the vaccum line hooks up to thru Honda Canada.I think the Shop talk section has a blurb on rebuilding them with pictures. These kits may not be available in the U.S. as Bagger was saying. Good Luck
Brian
Re: Dude! Get us a P/N!
Posted By: Brian in B.C. <
iemiller@shaw.ca>
Date: 3/10/2003 at 16:50:38
In Response To: Dude! Get us a P/N!
http://bbs.valkyrieriders.com/forum/tech.cgi?read=327259(Bagger John - #3785)
I looked up on the Direct line Micro fiche And the kit I got looks like #5 in the fuel tank picture.Part # 16953-MV9-000. Price is $28.58. I still have the old one at home and will cross reference to see if part number is the same as what I have posted. On the technical side of the petcock having spent some time figuring out how it works if your petcock isn't closing when the engine stops the end plate that the vacumm line hooks onto has a one way valve that allows the vacumm from the engine to overcome the spring pressure and open the diaphragm to allow fuel to flow.When the engine stops the one way valve shuts and air is allowed to bleed back into the diaphragm cavity thru a tiny, maybe .005" diameter hole and that allows the spring to push the diaphragm shut. I think it is designed with this one way valve to stop the diaphragm from pulsating as vacumm increases and decreases.The problem with this is the tiny hole which allows the air back into the diaphragm cavity can become plugged up and not allow the diaphragm to close. That was the problem with mine . Hope this helps.
Brian
Vent Hose Replacement
Actually if you take your time it's not too bad. Pick up some orange silicone hose from NAPA. NAPA part #H467, 72" length, 5/32" ID, prepackaged.
Posted By: W0QNX <
w0qnx@sctelcom.net>
Date: 1/17/2004 at 19:43:13
Well I read here a while back that someone suggested using a wire inside of the hose to get to the top hose. I'm talking about the hose that runs up from the T to the top of the Pair valve.
IT WORKS! I changed out my hoses today and DID NOT pull the air box. I needed to change out the air filter so while I had the tank off I did the hose job too.
I pushed the old hose off with a long screwdriver, pulled the side hoses attached a string to both sides and pulled the hoses out up through the left rear and center carbs.
I cut the new top hose about 2" longer and then using an antenna whip I had that fit loose in the hose I installed the top of the Pair valve hose by angling in from behind the left rear carb. It was not a perfect clear shot but only off by 5 degrees or so. I did need to hold up the hose end with the long screwdriver while I twisted slightly on the hose and just barely got the end started on the nipple. Once it was started I used the long screwdriver to gently finish sliding the hose completely on the nipple. I got the hose all the way on clear up to the bend in the nipple.
Then I fed the other 2 hoses in from the top and connected the sides.
The top hose operation probably took around 4-5 minutes, beat the heck out of pulling the airbox.
I don't think you could do this without pulling the tank.
Give it try next time instead of pulling the airbox.
Of course there were no holes or cracks in the hoses (29000 miles) but I know they are new.
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/AirBox%20VentHose/venthose.htmHere is a sheet I prepared for the session. It is not really as hard as it first appears. Some were frightened off at the tech session but it is way easier than pulling the airbox.
Raymond
Vacuum Line replacement without air box removal
Raymond Metcalf “W0QNX”
Tools needed:
6 to 7 feet 5/32 vacuum/fuel/emissions hose.
12 mm socket or wrench
5 mm hex wrench (with an accessory chrome cover on the tank front) or 10 mm socket.
#2 Phillips screwdriver.
9” long straight blade screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
2 #8 wood screws and some small wire or heavy string.
Flashlight.
20” of small antenna whip (.100-.125” stainless steel wire).
Optional but very useful, Honda service manual for your model Valkyrie. Study any pages showing information on the PAIR valve and its hoses.
It is best to prepare your Valkyrie for fuel tank removal by riding the motorcycle to a low fuel level thereby reducing the weight of the fuel tank.
The motorcycle should be completely cooled down before tank removal as there will be gasoline spillage when removing the fuel supply hose from the tank petcock.
Let’s begin:
Remove the seat. (If you need help with seat removal stop here, you are probably not able to perform this vacuum hose replacement procedure! You would be better off having a mechanic working on your Valkyrie.)
Turn the fuel petcock to the off position and with the Phillips screwdriver unscrew the fuel selector handle from the petcock. The screw is down inside the plastic handle. Be carefully with the selector as it a plastic item. The selector does not need be taken completely off the bike. Just pull it off the petcock and set the end below the petcock. Be careful with the fuel selector handle during removal and re-installation of the fuel tank.
Place a rag under the fuel petcock to catch fuel that will leak from the hose during removal. Remove the fuel tank supply hose (3/8 diameter hose) clamp spring and remove the hose from the petcock nipple. The long screwdriver works well to pry the hose off the nipple, be careful not to create any sparks! Tilt the fuel hoe down to drain the remaining fuel from the hose.
You may want to secure your handlebar in the straight ahead position with a rope from the right handlebar to the rear of the bike before proceeding with the next step.
Remove the front bolt holding the tank, then remove the rear bolt holding the tank. Gently lift the rear of the tank and remove the fuel vent line that is at the very rear of the tank. (The tank requires a little adjustment to clear the frame in the petcock area.) From the right side of the bike find the small vacuum line that runs to the petcock. It is just right of where the fuel hose was connected. Pry the vent hose off with a screwdriver. If your Valk is an Interstate there will be a blue wire connector running to the bottom center of the tank, unplug this wire before lifting the tank completely off.
The tank should now be free from the motorcycle and can be carefully lifted off and placed on a soft mat.
Closely study the hose routing of the #3 and #4 vacuum lines across the center top of the engine. Try to remember where the right hose (#3) runs as it goes below the chrome tube into the riser fitting. If it is not placed correctly it will lie on the chrome tube and may fail quickly as this chrome tube becomes heated.
Cylinder #3 is the right center cylinder when you are sitting on the bike. #4 is the left center and #6 is the left rear cylinder.
With needle nose pliers remove the vacuum hose to the #3 and #4 vacuum fittings inside of the chrome intake riser tubes. Pull the removed hose end out as much as needed and insert the wood screws with the strings or wires attached at the head of the screw into each of these vacuum lines. Secure the string ends to the choke cable on each side of the bike.
Find the PAIR valve vacuum hose located under the center bottom of the air box. It is visible best between the #4 and #6 carbs (left side) looking in at about a 45’ angle (also visible from the right side). The PAIR valve vacuum hose runs from the steel tubing (top of PAIR valve, (just below the air box)down to the top center of the engine area and is connected to a plastic “Tee” fitting with the #3 and #4 vacuum lines from each side connected to the Tee fitting also. With the long screwdriver pry the small spring clamp open or off of the top PAIR valve hose (it will not be reused). Now position the screwdriver from the right side of the bike and pry the vacuum line off the steel tubing under the air box.
From the left side of the bike find the top of the PAIR valve hose and grab it with the needle nose pliers. Gently pull the 3 hoses out from above the left rear and left center carbs. Pull slowly and gently as you may need to wiggle the hoses some to prevent the strings from falling off. It is not a disaster if they do fall off but you will need to route the hose by hand through the engine if they do! Pull all three hoses out and above the motorcycle.
Duplicate the hoses with the new vacuum line. Make the side lines several inches longer as you will cut these to fit after install them of the bike. Make the #10 PAIR valve hose 3 inches longer that it originally was. Install the side hoses onto the Tee fitting but not the PAIR valve hose (center of Tee). Set the Tee assembly aside for now.
Now the work begins. We are going to re-install the new PAIR valve vacuum hose using the antenna wire to place it onto the PAIR valve steel tubing. This requires the use of the flashlight and good vision as the PAIR valve steel tube fitting end is barely visible under the air box.
The antenna wire works best when the end is ground down (or filed) to a rounded point. This allows it to seat into the steel tube easier.
From the left rear of the engine find the steel tubing on top of the PAIR valve where the new #10 hose attaches. Working over the left rear carb (45’ angle into the center of the bike), place the end of the wire in the inside of the PAIR valve steel fitting. With the wire in place wet the end of the new PAIR valve hose (#10) and slide it onto the wire. Slide the hose up to the steel fitting and rotate the vacuum hose until it starts onto the PAIR fitting. Remove the wire, (the hose should stay on the fitting) use the long screwdriver to slide the new hose as far as possible onto the PAIR valve fitting. Work from both sides of the bike to accomplish this. You should be able to get the new hose all the way to the radius (bend) of the steel fitting. Any less and the hose may fall off at a later time.
Congratulate yourself, mission almost accomplished!
Work the new hose around the #6 carb rubber to a position between the #4 and #6 carbs where the strings are sticking up.
Attach the now installed PAIR valve hose to the other hose assembly at the center of the plastic Tee.
Now gently work the free ends of the #3 and #4 new vacuum hose down into the center of the engine. Use the strings to gently pull the new hose in; the PAIR valve hose will follow down into place. Don’t try to make this a quick job, work slowly on all three hoses until the entire new hose assembly is back to the position it was before you started. Use of the screwdriver may be needed to move the hoses around as needed.
The #3 and #4 new hoses where left long to make installation easier. Calculate their installation back onto the respective riser tube fittings. Cut and reattach the new hoses using the needle nose pliers. Be sure the hoses slide completely onto the fittings.
Now is a good time to replace the vacuum line attached to the #6 chrome riser tube. This vacuum hose runs back to the small fitting off the fuel petcock on the fuel tank. Its replacement is very easy compared to the PAIR valve hose.
Now is also a good time to replace the air filter while the tank is off the bike.
Sit the fuel tank back on the frame, reattach the fuel level sender wire if you have an Interstate, attach the small vacuum hose from the right side of the bike while gently raising the rear of the tank. Sit the tank down completely on the frame, be careful not to damage the petcock.
Reaching up and in,from the left side, re-attach the 3/8 fuel supply hose with needle nose pliers to the petcock. Place the wire spring clamp back in place on the fuel supply line.
Find the fuel vent line running up from the center frame cover (battery area) and reattach this hose to the rear center of the tank.
Replace the bolts in the front and rear of the tank. Screw the fuel selector handle back on to the fuel petcock.
Install the seat.
Go ride!
Raymond
Wood lift adapter
http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/lowtechlift.htmhttp://www.davequinnmotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/webc/HAGON_TWIN_SHOCKS.htmlI've been wanting to raise the ass end of my bike for a long time now, as I ride it like a sportbike and the stock trail, at almost 6 inches, makes the valk a little too stable to toss into turns with abandon. A higher rear end will decrease the rake and trail, with the added bonus of increasing ground clearance.( I SCRAPE the crap out of my pegs. )
There are lots of options for shorter shocks, but aside from the minor lift you get from 440's or I/S shocks, the only other route was custom.
Surfed into a "Hagon" site recently, they're UK made shocks. Affordable, but the valk wasn't listed. I got in touch with the USA distributor listed, Dave Quinn Motorcycles out of Conneticut.
He was extremely helpful, mentioning spring rates, sizes, pricing, options, etc. I'm very impressed with his service. Quick responses, good guy.
Seems the Pacific Coast 800 (tupperware dish on wheels) uses LONG shocks... 14.8 inches, with 35 kg/cm springs (heaviest hagon makes). Also had GL 1200's at 13.6 and 35 kg.
Little longer than I'd wanted, but at ~ 180.00 I couldn't not try. Tupperware Cruiser shocks!!!
They bolted up without any problems, simply pressed the metal bushings out of the stockers, they slid right into place. Black bodies, chrome springs. Chrome shrouds are available if you want.
Wow. I now need some " KISS" boots. I'm 5'10, I touch the ball of one foot at stops now, rather than flatfooting it. The kickstand's a little too short now too, but a few washers under the right bolt should cure it.
Remember when you first put on Avons? The feeling of power steering, of the bike being so much more responsive, happy to fall into turns and change direction willingly? Well,I still run avons, and the feel's like that all over again. Still stable in a straight line, too, just will come into turning mode much more readily.
The ride is firm, I like it, but only a few extended trips will tell if it's supple enough. For twisties, it's PERFECT. Seems balanced front to back.. a bounce in the saddle has both ends compressing and rebounding about the same.
The ground clearance is incredible, out to the edges of the tires and still barely scraping the feeler nuts. Chicanes are a matter of a light bit of countersteering... point and pull the trigger.
BIG grins inside the helmet... My favorite nearby switchback laden jaunt is so much more entertaining now.
I run drag bars, the riding position has me leaning forward into the wind slightly... no back pain or stress, I can feel exactly what that big front tire and wave rotors are doing. Hanging off and hanging with sportbikers in the curves is a true blast...the valk's low down grunt of torque is just the thing to slingshot out of corners. Decided to do an intake polish, port match, new plugs, and got a new set of thunder pipes (3-1 collector) to wake the dragon a little, the 6-6 cobras are now in retirement. She likes to wheelie and spin now.
P.S. There are a few sets of cosmetic blem thunder pipes left on their website at 499 instead of > 600.
I like the new pipes... More pep and they tuck in MUCH better. Also removed the engine guards... I'm thinking a set of black sportbike sliders will bolt to the guard mounting point and be inobtrusive, yet protect the cases more than nothing at all without losing much clearance.
I'll post pics, and a more in-depth riding perspective, as well as the new geometry numbers, when I get some more miles in and the shocks settle a bit.
'97-'99 bikes are more likely to have corrosion on them... and eventually can FRY the relay. Honda wants $70 for the relay, and $300 for the wiring harness connected to it. Disconnect the battery before diggin' around in there though. When you're done cleaning/greasing (as you did in the switch housing) wrap some electrical tape above the relay, making a "hood" to shed moisture away from the connections. The 2000/newer bikes have a secondary rubber "hood" that the '97-'99 bikes don't have.
The ground wire from the neg. terminal to the left side of the motor was where I found my intermittent connection.
Unbolt the bolt, and grind off the coating on the block so the line makes a solid connection. Little clear silicone over everything, and my hiccups have been scared away for good.
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Rear rotor thickness the rear disc service limit is 6.0 mm (0.24 inch) while the thickness new is 7.5 mm (0.30 inch)
Final Drive O Rings
Quantity Part number/Description
O-Ring Part number 91358-MG9-003 (50.5mm x 3.5mm)
goes in a groove adjacent to the splines on the final driven flange
O-Ring Part number 91304-KT8-003 (61mm x 2mm)
goes on the shoulder of the wheel. An alternate number is 91302-MA6-003. You will see this one when you pull the final driven flange off the wheel.
O-Ring Part number 91356-MG9-003 (39.5mm x 2.4mm)
It is found in the final drive, where the final driven flange splines mate up to the ring gear splines
Part number 42616-MAJ-G20,
Thrust Washer Honda Code #5023353
Spline maintenance
GD-525 Moly Grease provides uniform and durable lubrication under extreme pressure to prevent wear on the surfaces of the two mating steel parts over a wide temperature range.GD-525 is tacky and adhesive to prevent wash out and sling off. Guard Dog reduces friction and wear.
Cleaning piston heads
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/ky/cleaning_piston_tops.htmhttp://www.guarddogmoly.com/gd525.shtmlMoly grease and paste
Alternator service
http://www.thebergquistfamily.com/valkyrie/maintenance/alternator/ratdog.htmhttp://www.thebergquistfamily.com/valkyrie/maintenance/alternator/AlternatorService.htmGOLD WING ALTERNATOR ALTERNATIVE:
Save some money by getting a Gold Wing alternator to fit your Valkyrie! Part # is 31100-MT2-015 for '97 Goldwing Aspencade. The only difference is the terminal & plastic insulator are different where you connect the alternator battery wire. You have to take off the capacitor that is mounted on the Gold Wing alternator and rotate the front housing to match the holes from the Valkyrie model so that it will fit.
Build your own trailer
http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/trailer.htmPosted By: 98valk <
fitness7days@nospam.juno.com>
Date: 12/30/2003 at 10:45:32
Wal-Mart ST filters are made by Champion Labs who also make STP, Bosch and Mobil-1 filters.
ST6607 52 sq in of media. same size as OEM
ST7317 62 sq in media same dia 1/2 longer then OEM
ST3593A (160 sq in? not confirmed) larger dia but shorter than ST3717
all of the above have the required 8-11 psi by-pass valve.
this site has cut opened 6607 and 7317 filters
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001207 this site has a cut opened ST3593A and is a cross reference with the honda/toyo filter from the oildrop site.
http://community.webshots.com/album/81528451STiyTw It looks like the 3593 is the best for filter area and flow. Cost is $2 at Wal-Mart.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------http://www.amadirectlink.com/features/concept.html Valkyrie concepts
Engine guards outside diameter. The "straight" pieces are 1"...the curved areas around the timing belt cover take 1 1/8" clamps.
Lifting The Fat Lady Without a Hoist
http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Floor_Jack/floor_jack.html Timing belt change
Before you begin do the following
1. Remove all 6 spark plugs (removes any chance of compression spinning the cams once the tension of the belts are removed)
2 Get a good sealing (gasket maker) compound...I yse Yamilube 4 from the honda/yamaha shop to seal one of the bolts that has oil behind it
3. Remove the timing cover while the bike is still warm, then let it cool before removing the belts and all
I use "whiteout" to mark everything just to make sure that nothing moves.
http://www.f6rider.com/GL1/gl49.jpg Swing Arm
http://www.f6rider.com/GL1/gl42.jpg Seat, Sissy bar, lock
http://www.f6rider.com/GL1/gl39.jpg Rear wheel
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------How to pick up a Valkyrie
http://www.f6rider.com/Articles2004/HowToRightaDumpedValk.htmReplacing carb springs
http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/shims.html--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fork rebuild part #'s
#required
2 - ring back up 51412-KZ3-003
2 - bush guide 51414-MT7-003
2 - bush slider 51415-KZ3-701
1 - ring piston 51435-KZ3-701
2 - ring oil seal stopper 51447-KZ3-003
2 - seal set front fork 51490-MW0-003
1 - bolt socket 8mm 90116-KV3-701
1 - washer special 8mm 90544-283-000
2 - o-ring 91356-KZ3-003
Side Cover Tab Repair
http://www.geocities.com/verminNW/side_cover_tab_repair.htm
