L/R wheel bearing removal

[mellowyellow#7933]

Spacer doesn't move over on the left to get punch on edge of inner race but lots of movement on right side. I don't have a blind bearing puller. Any other method apart from punching out right side brg first to move spacer? Don't want to ruin right bearing for nothing if I don't have to.
Also bearing supply store only had a 7mm wide seal instead of the specified 8mm. Any harm except for sitting in cup a little more?

[hubcapsc]

There's the Honda tool to remove it. Ida know about the seal...



-Mike

[indybobm]

You could remove the right bearing and spacer and then you can get to the left bearing. Of course, this means replacing both bearings but why not? I did this the other day without a puller.

[Chrisj CMA]

AutoZone will loan you a slide hammer. Takes it right out like butter.  If you have something like that up there

[JimC]

Harbor freight also sells a blind bearing tool, works like a wedge and drives it right out.

Jim

[John Schmidt]

I found the Honda tool useless in most cases so rigged up my own method. When it comes to the left rear bearing, once it's out do the double row bearing mod and quit worrying about left rear bearings for good.

[hubcapsc]

I found the Honda tool useless

I've heard other people say that. I've used it numerous times on three
bikes. It not only works great, but I think it's fun, too. You can't be timid
about getting it set...

-Mike

[mello dude]

I also found that to be a frustrating task. I have the Honda tool too. Yah, kinda useless...  And after a hundred tries with "effe" bombs and  yelling,  - I decided - screw it.... Since the bearing was going into the trash, I epoxied the tool into the bearing and let set overnight. --- Finally --- that worked.  Of course then, with the bearing finally in hand,  I had to break the bond out of the bearing and clean the tool.. The epoxy kinda just peeled off...  --- the other side bearing is cake after the first one is out.

[John Schmidt]

I found the Honda tool useless

I've heard other people say that. I've used it numerous times on three
bikes. It not only works great, but I think it's fun, too. You can't be timid
about getting it set...

-Mike

Believe me....I wasn't timid. l worked with that thing for hours one day, determined to prove to myself it did work. Finally tossed it and came up with something else.

[Bighead]

My ? Why would you change one without chqnging both? 

[saddlesore]

I have a bearing puller but still had trouble.    I used heat on the wheel and that worked.   I also kept the new bearings in the freezer until I was ready to put them in.   Lessons learned on this site.   

[h13man]

My ? Why would you change one without chqnging both? 

If isn't broke don't fix it especially MC tire changes come more often than CT. $42 for the double row compared to the SR @ $10 local @ local supplier. Now if both were single row like on my Nomad, I replaced both but the DR bearing is a lot more durable than the SR bearing. And yes I done this @ 33,000 mi. (SR) and I'm @ 41,000 w/o replacing the DR bearing. That being said new tire time is within the next 1,500 mi. thus bearing check again. But I do agree for someone who hasn't the resources to do their own work I'd replace both. BTW I wouldn't use All Balls brand like I used on the Nomad as they felt "cheap" as their price.

[ridingron]

I would pop the seal off and check for grease. My buddy bought a set of bearings somewhere (wouldn't admit where) for $8. I suggested he check for grease. There was none. After greasing them, they lasted almost 10K miles! On the rear wheel of a Goldwing. Money and time well spent.

I would have replaced both at the same time. It's as easy to order/buy 2 as it is one. The tools are out and my hands are dirty. Sure the wheel is coming off again in 1500 miles. My luck is the other bearing will go out before the 1500 miles and tire change time. I would rather ride    than wrench  .

[Chrisj CMA]

My ? Why would you change one without chqnging both? 

In the case of a left rear bearing failure.  If it didn't grenade and lose shape the right bearing should be just fine.  If the left bearing had a catastrophic failure then a change in axle angle (not being level will stress the right bearing and in that case I would replace it.

[mellowyellow#7933]

Ended up changing both, couldn't locate puller in time. Should be good for another 170000 kms.
Thanks guys.

[Pastor John]

My left bearing came apart. The outer race and the balls are out.  How do I get the inner race out?  it doesn't look like there is any purchase from the other side.    Thanks in advance!

[Chrisj CMA]

My left bearing came apart. The outer race and the balls are out.  How do I get the inner race out?  it doesn't look like there is any purchase from the other side.    Thanks in advance!

You could use a dremmel tool with the small metal cutting wheel to cut the outer race. One cut should allow you to work it out. Worse case two cuts and then it’s in half

Go slow and be very careful. And make sure you clean up well so no filings can cause future problems

[Pastor John]

I thought maybe to do that.   That outer race is a pretty substantial chunk of steel.  Not sure how to cut it all the way through without getting into the wheel itself. 

(If anyone is interested, a 7/8 socket will go right through that hole with a little persuasion.)

[RonW]

They use to spot weld a bead partially around the race which shrunk the race after the metal cools. Shield the surrounding areas from spatter I guess. (spatter, not splatter). How about tack welding a bar spanning the walls of the race.

[h13man]

I thought maybe to do that.   That outer race is a pretty substantial chunk of steel.  Not sure how to cut it all the way through without getting into the wheel itself. 

(If anyone is interested, a 7/8 socket will go right through that hole with a little persuasion.)

The races are made of hardened steel. Once you cut a decent groove's into the race you should be able to crack/break the race with a punch and hammer. Be careful of flying shrapnel thus using a rag helps with detering fly parts.

As for removal from normal state, I use a 5/8" dia. steel round x 18" lg. with a sharp flat end, pry the spacer off center, and hold pressure on the rod up and against the inner race and carefully use a 16 oz. ball peen to tap out. There won't be much "catch" on the race but has worked for many a year for me. Tap lightly all around. The use of a heat gun may help but I've never have used one yet. There's only about .0005 press fit so finesse is needed as it's too easy to "rooster" it in place. You may have to sharpen/grind/sand the rod end during the process.

I always replace both bearings on front but guilty of only replacing the single row in the back wheel due to the double felt like new. That was about 2 tire changes ago and all is good still.