Hard throttle --- UPDATE -- fixed, kinda!!

[Tx Bohemian]

The throttle on the '99 I just bought seems to be really hard to turn. My hand/arm tires/cramps after a short time riding.

Are these things normally hard or is there something that needs to be done like lubing the cables?  This bike did sit up for a couple of years.  It has chrome covered lines and aftermarket grips.  


Al

After working on the driving lights (second time, but right this time; corrosion problems) I had a bit of time so I decided to take the advice here and lube the cable and the throttle flange (the part that fits in switch housing) and WOW!!! big difference!  I just sprayed some chain/cable lube on the flange part once I split the housing but I have stock grips and different handlebars coming so when I replace all that I'll do a good lube job.

But with just this it's waaay better!!  Thanks again guys.

[Valkocalypse]

While I haven't adjusted the throttle on mine, I did notice the procedure mentioned in the Clymer manual.  I'm sure it's in the honda manual too.  You can probably get the honda manual in .pdf format on the Valkyrie Norway site.  Seems like it's in the chapter on lubrication and maintenance.

www.valkyrienorway.com

here is a link to the Valkyrie Norway site.  There's some really cool data on exhaust systems on there as well.

[DFragn]

Check your cable routing first. maybe they're being pressured to bind.
Next I would open the throttle housing and look for a frayed cable. When cables fray it usually at one end or the other and it's generally at the throttle grip housing with the push cable.

If they spent a significant amount of time maladjusted [too slack] they could kink a bit. In time the kink will fray even after they've been correctly adjusted back.

There could also be something interfering with the throttle linkage at the carb bank. Any recent alterations below the tank?

OEM cables have an inner nylon sheath and shouldn't need lubricating.

[hubcapsc]

My throttle pull went from awful to awesome with some lube.

One way to get to where you can lube the cables without too much trouble
is to loosen the handlebars at the risers so that you can slide them to
the left. Then there's enough slack so that when you loosen your throttle you
can slide the grip off to the right. With the grip off, you can take the cable
knuckles out of their slots and put lube in the cable. Once you go to this trouble,
use some good lube (like Tri Flow)... put the lube in at the top and after
a while it will come out down near the carb linkages and then you're done.

Protect your gas tank with multiple layers of like towels or something,
don't let your loose handlebars swing down and put a big dent in your tank...

-Mike

[Cruzen]

Be advised, especially if you are coming from a diferent type of bike, the throttle on a Valk is harder to turn than a throttle on most bikes.  Get the return springs used on the Interstate which I am told are the lightest return springs available for a Valk.  I also use one of those palm throttle type devices that fits onto the grip when on long trips to keep my hand from cramping.  The return spring on my Valk is significantly stronger than on my Magna.  It takes some getting used to.

[DFragn]

 Get the return springs used on the Interstate which I am told are the lightest return springs available for a Valk.

Cruzen Are you referencing the needle diaphragm springs from the I/S?
If so, those have "0" effect on the throttle control cables.

The throttle return springs are integral of the carb throttle linkages (4) and are identical on all Valk models.
I imagine one or more of those linkage springs could break on a heavily corroded bike, but unlikely. In order to replace these springs the entire carb bank would need to be removed and completely disassembled.

His problem has got to be within the throttle cables themselves somewhere.

It may be possible [with way too much cable slack] for a cable to slip off the throttle control cam at the carb linkage. That should be visible with a flashlight between carb #1 & #3 for confirmation.

Tx Bohemian: Does your throttle return to idle on its own?

[Jess from VA]

Aside from the throttle cables or return springs, isn't it also possible that the throttle sleeve under the grip is just binding on the handlebar?  And if so, couldn't you just pull the grip end cap and spray some lube up between the sleeve and handlebar?  I am not a fan of water-based WD40 except to keep my shovel from rusting.  CRC is better.

Also, if there are aftermarket grips, is it possible the PO allowed grip glue to gum up the works (at the top)?

[Tropic traveler]

Aside from the throttle cables or return springs, isn't it also possible that the throttle sleeve under the grip is just binding on the handlebar?  And if so, couldn't you just pull the grip end cap and spray some lube up between the sleeve and handlebar?  I am not a fan of water-based WD40 except to keep my shovel from rusting.  CRC is better.

Also, if there are aftermarket grips, is it possible the PO allowed grip glue to gum up the works (at the top)?

A worn throttle sleeve was the problem I had on my Rocket 3. Riding back from the Keys last year the throttle was getting progressively harder to turn, getting to the point that I had "cruise control". I had swapped Valk bars to the R3 while using the R3 sleeve that I had trimmed down to fit Kury Iso grips. Sure enough the sleeve warped and was binding on the bar. A new Valkyrie throttle sleeve & a quick polishing of the bar cured the problem. 


 

[Cruzen]

 Get the return springs used on the Interstate which I am told are the lightest return springs available for a Valk.

Cruzen Are you referencing the needle diaphragm springs from the I/S?
If so, those have "0" effect on the throttle control cables.

The throttle return springs are integral of the carb throttle linkages (4) and are identical on all Valk models.
I imagine one or more of those linkage springs could break on a heavily corroded bike, but unlikely. In order to replace these springs the entire carb bank would need to be removed and completely disassembled.

His problem has got to be within the throttle cables themselves somewhere.

It may be possible [with way too much cable slack] for a cable to slip off the throttle control cam at the carb linkage. That should be visible with a flashlight between carb #1 & #3 for confirmation.

Tx Bohemian: Does your throttle return to idle on its own?

I don't know for sure,  however the next time you have a Standard next to an Interstate twist the throttles and you will feel the difference.  I have no personal info other than having that experience.  Somewhere on this board I read about someone changing out those springs but I may be wrong.  I do know there is a difference in throttle feel between the Standard and Interstate.  What is causing it I do not know.

[Tx Bohemian]

 Get the return springs used on the Interstate which I am told are the lightest return springs available for a Valk.

Cruzen Are you referencing the needle diaphragm springs from the I/S?
If so, those have "0" effect on the throttle control cables.

The throttle return springs are integral of the carb throttle linkages (4) and are identical on all Valk models.
I imagine one or more of those linkage springs could break on a heavily corroded bike, but unlikely. In order to replace these springs the entire carb bank would need to be removed and completely disassembled.

His problem has got to be within the throttle cables themselves somewhere.

It may be possible [with way too much cable slack] for a cable to slip off the throttle control cam at the carb linkage. That should be visible with a flashlight between carb #1 & #3 for confirmation.

Tx Bohemian: Does your throttle return to idle on its own?

I don't know for sure,  however the next time you have a Standard next to an Interstate twist the throttles and you will feel the difference.  I have no personal info other than having that experience.  Somewhere on this board I read about someone changing out those springs but I may be wrong.  I do know there is a difference in throttle feel between the Standard and Interstate.  What is causing it I do not know.

In answer to the "return" question: yes it does return by itself.

I'm thinking it is at the grip because my C50 had a similar problem, felt like it dragged, and it turned out to be the bar end weight was too close to the handgrip to where it was dragging.  This feels like that although I don't have bar end weights but after market grips.  I'll try the lube thing first.

Thanks Guys!