Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« on: September 27, 2018, 09:29:18 AM » |
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Well I've been in denial for about a year, but after 75k and 20 years it's past due. I did an EBC for my rear a couple years ago and it's working out okay, but it's not as good as OEM and I'm open to suggestions what's best for replacing my fronts. If I'm going to keep the bike--and I see no reason not to, it's hands down the best bike I've owned in 45 + years riding--I might as well do this right. What say ye, OEM rotors? if so, what's the best source--and please don't say a Honda stealership 
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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98valk
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« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2018, 10:02:05 AM » |
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I'm using VFR800 rotors right now. actually stop better than the oem rotors, didn't change the pads, metallurgy must be different. used off ebay +/- $100. new oem spec is 4.4-4.6mm. ones I got are 4.4mm. CBR600F4 (not Fi, rotors are different) are same exact rotors and same prices. both are same exact hub bolt pattern. there also is a CBR900rr that fits. I have a set of galfer wave rotors listed in the classifieds if interested. They measure brand new spec, but are used. they were installed and only ran a few hundred miles.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Jruby38
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« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2018, 11:58:05 AM » |
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I went with the 1800 GW. Go with kevlar organic pads. Stop better, cheaper, don't gouge the rotors, they polish them. A little more dust but it wipes right off to a mirror finish.
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98valk
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« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2018, 02:48:41 PM » |
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I went with the 1800 GW. Go with kevlar organic pads. Stop better, cheaper, don't gouge the rotors, they polish them. A little more dust but it wipes right off to a mirror finish.
Sintered Bronze pads provide the best braking which is what OEM pads are. kevlar comes in second and they are the worst for brake fade, meaning repeated stops or going down a mountain one will lose their brakes. they also need more warm-up than SB type. https://www.sixity.com/brake-pad-selection-guide.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2018, 03:50:10 PM » |
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The Gold Wing rotors are a mm or two narrower than the Valk rotors, but you can still use them with OE pads and they supposedly work great. I think a lot of guys did this because they were significantly cheaper than OE Valk rotors.
However, at some point, the prices of the OE Valk rotors came down to closer to the Gold wing rotors.
But this info is a bit dated, so do your homework.
My original '99 rotors on both bikes are somewhat cupped (or more accurately, lipped on the outside edge beyond the brake pads). However, they seem strong as ever, and aside from a little fiddling to get new pads in when needed, they continue to work to perfection. (so far as I know)
Just remember, I seem to recall a bit of difference for '97 front rotor bolts (heads instead of countersunk).... but have no idea if this would affect using gold wing rotors. (You didn't mention the year of your bike)
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« Last Edit: September 27, 2018, 03:52:12 PM by Jess from VA »
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gordonv
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Posts: 5760
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2018, 04:17:05 PM » |
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I don't remember if the rotors where still on the front rim with tire that I gave to a Vermon Rider from Seattle a few years ago. I would look at the price for a whole unit, then you would be able to swap with you need a new tire.
Gives you more time to find a replacement. Have you taken a micrometer to the rotor yet? It says right on it, 4mm min thickness I believe. Used ones come available from time-to-time on ebay for low prices.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #7 on: September 28, 2018, 05:39:19 PM » |
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Thanks fellas for your help. Guess I'll go with the GW rotors unless I can find Valk rotors for a reasonable price. Jess, my rotors are also lipped, and if I reach past the lip and mic the thickness it's like .020" under the limit. they still stop me but I wonder for how much longer.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #8 on: September 28, 2018, 07:04:12 PM » |
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Thanks fellas for your help. Guess I'll go with the GW rotors unless I can find Valk rotors for a reasonable price. Jess, my rotors are also lipped, and if I reach past the lip and mic the thickness it's like .020" under the limit. they still stop me but I wonder for how much longer.
I just don't know. But .020 doesn't sound that bad, if the metal and surface is in good shape. Honda does good work and decent manuals, but you know everyone likes to build in safety margins. My dealer tech who installs my tires puts a micrometer on them and has said I was OK, for now. 95K on one and 60K on the other, but I am always easy on my brakes, and get years on my pads. And FWIW, I can't ever remember reading a story about MC rotors traumatically failing all at once causing a mishap of some sort. Now if you were fading badly with good pads, that would be worrisome.
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98valk
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« Reply #9 on: September 28, 2018, 07:23:17 PM » |
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Thanks fellas for your help. Guess I'll go with the GW rotors unless I can find Valk rotors for a reasonable price. Jess, my rotors are also lipped, and if I reach past the lip and mic the thickness it's like .020" under the limit. they still stop me but I wonder for how much longer.
I still have the valkyrie rotors I took off. I'll mic them over the wknd and I'll PM u, if your interested.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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ShiftHappens
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« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2018, 07:01:43 AM » |
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I ordered 2 new rotors in August 2018. I did look at the Goldwing rotor option, which at one time was less money, but not now. OEM Valkyrie Rotors have come down in price. I paid $170.18 each from https://www.partzilla.com/, which is less than the Goldwing price. There is a difference in right and left rotors that is not discernible by looking at them. 45120-MZ0-003 DISK, R. FR. BRAKE 45220-MZ0-003 DISK, L. FR. BRAKE Also, I decided to try Non metallic organic pads, Kevlar I believe from https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/ and am very happy with them. They are a bit confused as to Valkyrie years, but they worked fine on my 1999 Interstate. A complete set of 6 six pads - 4 for the 2 front rotors and 2 for the back rotor for $18.99 with free shipping. https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/2000-2003-honda-gl-1500-valkyrie-interstate-front-rear-carbon-kevlar-organic-nao-brake-pads-set.htmlWith 85,000 miles, the front calipers were also rebuilt and I noticed a significant braking improvement. Thanks daprez for doing the work. My reasoning is that if I did not like the kevlar pads, I could always switch back to OEM which I had always used up until now. Swapping out pads is easy. I do not believe I would go back. I know there are many opinions, just like motor oil, but this has been my experience.
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« Last Edit: September 29, 2018, 07:08:23 AM by ShiftHappens »
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1999 Interstate 
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mello dude
Member
    
Posts: 951
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #11 on: September 29, 2018, 07:19:46 AM » |
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Current Partzilla prices.,. Valkyrie ----- $178 GW -------$245
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me....... * Mr. Murphy was an optimist.... * There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius..... * My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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98valk
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« Reply #12 on: September 29, 2018, 08:50:17 AM » |
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I ordered 2 new rotors in August 2018. I did look at the Goldwing rotor option, which at one time was less money, but not now. OEM Valkyrie Rotors have come down in price. I paid $170.18 each from https://www.partzilla.com/, which is less than the Goldwing price. There is a difference in right and left rotors that is not discernible by looking at them. 45120-MZ0-003 DISK, R. FR. BRAKE 45220-MZ0-003 DISK, L. FR. BRAKE Also, I decided to try Non metallic organic pads, Kevlar I believe from https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/ and am very happy with them. They are a bit confused as to Valkyrie years, but they worked fine on my 1999 Interstate. A complete set of 6 six pads - 4 for the 2 front rotors and 2 for the back rotor for $18.99 with free shipping. https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/2000-2003-honda-gl-1500-valkyrie-interstate-front-rear-carbon-kevlar-organic-nao-brake-pads-set.htmlWith 85,000 miles, the front calipers were also rebuilt and I noticed a significant braking improvement. Thanks daprez for doing the work. My reasoning is that if I did not like the kevlar pads, I could always switch back to OEM which I had always used up until now. Swapping out pads is easy. I do not believe I would go back. I know there are many opinions, just like motor oil, but this has been my experience. front brake rotors have Direction arrows indicating which side they install on.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #13 on: September 29, 2018, 09:15:41 AM » |
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Thanks fellas for your help. Guess I'll go with the GW rotors unless I can find Valk rotors for a reasonable price. Jess, my rotors are also lipped, and if I reach past the lip and mic the thickness it's like .020" under the limit. they still stop me but I wonder for how much longer.
I just don't know. But .020 doesn't sound that bad, if the metal and surface is in good shape. Honda does good work and decent manuals, but you know everyone likes to build in safety margins. My dealer tech who installs my tires puts a micrometer on them and has said I was OK, for now. 95K on one and 60K on the other, but I am always easy on my brakes, and get years on my pads. And FWIW, I can't ever remember reading a story about MC rotors traumatically failing all at once causing a mishap of some sort. Now if you were fading badly with good pads, that would be worrisome. I'm not too worried about the rotors cracking or some instantaneous brake failure, but I'm not always easy on my brakes--some drivers require me to clamp down dang hard! Still, I haven't had any fading or anything and the rotors don't have any deep grooves, it's just that they're worn and with 20 years on them I think it's time to replace them.
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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Valker
Member
    
Posts: 2995
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #14 on: September 29, 2018, 09:53:09 AM » |
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I'm not too worried about the rotors cracking or some instantaneous brake failure, but I'm not always easy on my brakes--some drivers require me to clamp down dang hard! Still, I haven't had any fading or anything and the rotors don't have any deep grooves, it's just that they're worn and with 20 years on them I think it's time to replace them.
Feel free to ship those old things to me. I’m sure they’re in better shape than my 20 year old ones with 174,000 mile on them. Let me know if you want my address.
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #15 on: September 29, 2018, 03:25:10 PM » |
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Well I'm the worst packrat ever, I never throw anything away I'm sure I'll keep the old rotors  . They're probably as good or better than most of the ones for sale on fleabay
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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Tfrank59
Member
    
Posts: 1364
'98 Tourer
Western Washington
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« Reply #16 on: September 29, 2018, 03:30:14 PM » |
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Thanks fellas for your help. Guess I'll go with the GW rotors unless I can find Valk rotors for a reasonable price. Jess, my rotors are also lipped, and if I reach past the lip and mic the thickness it's like .020" under the limit. they still stop me but I wonder for how much longer.
I just don't know. But .020 doesn't sound that bad, if the metal and surface is in good shape. Honda does good work and decent manuals, but you know everyone likes to build in safety margins. My dealer tech who installs my tires puts a micrometer on them and has said I was OK, for now. 95K on one and 60K on the other, but I am always easy on my brakes, and get years on my pads. And FWIW, I can't ever remember reading a story about MC rotors traumatically failing all at once causing a mishap of some sort. Now if you were fading badly with good pads, that would be worrisome. you know what I have to correct myself my rotors measure about .152" which is only like .005 under the minimum, which is 4 mm which in inches is about .157. so I am under the thickness limit but not by much
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-Tom
Keep the rubber side down. USMC '78-'84 '98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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SPOFF
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« Reply #17 on: September 29, 2018, 08:32:29 PM » |
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Just remember, I seem to recall a bit of difference for '97 front rotor bolts (heads instead of countersunk).... but have no idea if this would affect using gold wing rotors.
Your memory is good. My 97 has rounded heads. Does anyone know if tapered bolts can be substituted on my bike to use Goldwing or even later model Valkyrie rotors?
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #18 on: September 30, 2018, 04:36:08 AM » |
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There is no difference year to rear on front rotors/ bolts on the Valkyrie.
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Savago
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« Reply #19 on: October 01, 2018, 09:45:54 AM » |
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Not trying to hijack the topic, but would GW 1800 rotors fit an I/S?
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Daniel Meyer
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Posts: 5492
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
The State of confusion.
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« Reply #20 on: October 01, 2018, 10:12:20 AM » |
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Just remember, I seem to recall a bit of difference for '97 front rotor bolts (heads instead of countersunk).... but have no idea if this would affect using gold wing rotors.
Your memory is good. My 97 has rounded heads. Does anyone know if tapered bolts can be substituted on my bike to use Goldwing or even later model Valkyrie rotors? There is no difference year to rear on front rotors/ bolts on the Valkyrie.
Correct. The rear is different, but the fronts are the same for all years.
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CUAgain, Daniel Meyer 
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mello dude
Member
    
Posts: 951
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #21 on: October 04, 2018, 05:54:07 PM » |
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I ordered 2 new rotors in August 2018. I did look at the Goldwing rotor option, which at one time was less money, but not now. OEM Valkyrie Rotors have come down in price. I paid $170.18 each from https://www.partzilla.com/, which is less than the Goldwing price. There is a difference in right and left rotors that is not discernible by looking at them. 45120-MZ0-003 DISK, R. FR. BRAKE 45220-MZ0-003 DISK, L. FR. BRAKE Also, I decided to try Non metallic organic pads, Kevlar I believe from https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/ and am very happy with them. They are a bit confused as to Valkyrie years, but they worked fine on my 1999 Interstate. A complete set of 6 six pads - 4 for the 2 front rotors and 2 for the back rotor for $18.99 with free shipping. https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/2000-2003-honda-gl-1500-valkyrie-interstate-front-rear-carbon-kevlar-organic-nao-brake-pads-set.htmlWith 85,000 miles, the front calipers were also rebuilt and I noticed a significant braking improvement. Thanks daprez for doing the work. My reasoning is that if I did not like the kevlar pads, I could always switch back to OEM which I had always used up until now. Swapping out pads is easy. I do not believe I would go back. I know there are many opinions, just like motor oil, but this has been my experience. Just for grins - I ordered a set. For 20 bucks, i thought why not. I blow that going to dinner. Just got them.... they look fine . Will give them a shot. 
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me....... * Mr. Murphy was an optimist.... * There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius..... * My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109
VRCC# 32796
columbus indiana
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« Reply #22 on: October 05, 2018, 06:59:27 AM » |
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I ordered 2 new rotors in August 2018. I did look at the Goldwing rotor option, which at one time was less money, but not now. OEM Valkyrie Rotors have come down in price. I paid $170.18 each from https://www.partzilla.com/, which is less than the Goldwing price. There is a difference in right and left rotors that is not discernible by looking at them. 45120-MZ0-003 DISK, R. FR. BRAKE 45220-MZ0-003 DISK, L. FR. BRAKE Also, I decided to try Non metallic organic pads, Kevlar I believe from https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/ and am very happy with them. They are a bit confused as to Valkyrie years, but they worked fine on my 1999 Interstate. A complete set of 6 six pads - 4 for the 2 front rotors and 2 for the back rotor for $18.99 with free shipping. https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/2000-2003-honda-gl-1500-valkyrie-interstate-front-rear-carbon-kevlar-organic-nao-brake-pads-set.htmlWith 85,000 miles, the front calipers were also rebuilt and I noticed a significant braking improvement. Thanks daprez for doing the work. My reasoning is that if I did not like the kevlar pads, I could always switch back to OEM which I had always used up until now. Swapping out pads is easy. I do not believe I would go back. I know there are many opinions, just like motor oil, but this has been my experience. Just for grins - I ordered a set. For 20 bucks, i thought why not. I blow that going to dinner. Just got them.... they look fine . Will give them a shot.  i have been running those pads for several years. They work just fine. They do buzz a little the first few hundred miles but are fine after that. they stop just as well as oem pads. they will lock up a car tire also  just for testing reasons though. You do really have to try to do it.
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ShiftHappens
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« Reply #23 on: October 05, 2018, 08:41:09 AM » |
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I had no buzz on "break in". Perhaps it is just adjusting to some ridges on rotors and since I had new rotors, no ridges.
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1999 Interstate 
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mello dude
Member
    
Posts: 951
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Dayton Ohio
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« Reply #24 on: October 05, 2018, 09:29:47 AM » |
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I ordered 2 new rotors in August 2018. I did look at the Goldwing rotor option, which at one time was less money, but not now. OEM Valkyrie Rotors have come down in price. I paid $170.18 each from https://www.partzilla.com/, which is less than the Goldwing price. There is a difference in right and left rotors that is not discernible by looking at them. 45120-MZ0-003 DISK, R. FR. BRAKE 45220-MZ0-003 DISK, L. FR. BRAKE Also, I decided to try Non metallic organic pads, Kevlar I believe from https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/ and am very happy with them. They are a bit confused as to Valkyrie years, but they worked fine on my 1999 Interstate. A complete set of 6 six pads - 4 for the 2 front rotors and 2 for the back rotor for $18.99 with free shipping. https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/2000-2003-honda-gl-1500-valkyrie-interstate-front-rear-carbon-kevlar-organic-nao-brake-pads-set.htmlWith 85,000 miles, the front calipers were also rebuilt and I noticed a significant braking improvement. Thanks daprez for doing the work. My reasoning is that if I did not like the kevlar pads, I could always switch back to OEM which I had always used up until now. Swapping out pads is easy. I do not believe I would go back. I know there are many opinions, just like motor oil, but this has been my experience. Just for grins - I ordered a set. For 20 bucks, i thought why not. I blow that going to dinner. Just got them.... they look fine . Will give them a shot.  i have been running those pads for several years. They work just fine. They do buzz a little the first few hundred miles but are fine after that. they stop just as well as oem pads. they will lock up a car tire also  just for testing reasons though. You do really have to try to do it. If the pads work out, I may sell the brand new, never used, OEM pads I just bought a month ago.... 
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« Last Edit: October 05, 2018, 09:36:40 AM by mello dude »
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* There's someone in my head, but it's not me....... * Mr. Murphy was an optimist.... * There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius..... * My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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