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Author Topic: Dust Seal Question  (Read 890 times)
Fazer
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Posts: 947


West Chester (Cincinnati), Ohio


« on: September 27, 2018, 10:52:56 AM »

Does it make sense to change just a dust seal that is dry rotted, or should one go ahead and change all the seals and bushing since the fork is out anyway?  This is on a 2000 Tourer with 23,000 miles. 

Amazon has the All Balls bushing kit for $34.  Wide range of prices for dust seals.  Suggestions?
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Nothing in moderation...
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2018, 11:26:06 AM »

Valkyrie forks are the same as VTX

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXZPzQqfAXc&feature=youtu.be
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sandy
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Posts: 5383


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2018, 02:16:21 PM »

All Balls also makes oil/dust seals for Valks. They are the best ones I've used.
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Ken aka Oil Burner
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Posts: 1127


Mendon, MA


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« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2018, 05:17:13 PM »

You're going to have to separate the inner fork tubes from the outers just to do the dust seals, and you'll likely end up destroying the fork seals in the process. I did the bushings when I did mine, but my old ones were still in OK shape. At minimum, expect to do the fork oil seals and dust seals. Bushings are likely optional at 23K, unless the roads in your area are absolutely awful. I did the All-Balls kit. Worked OK. No leaks so far.
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Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2018, 06:16:12 AM »

The dust seals on my '99 Tourer forks were slightly (VERY slightly) weathered when I replaced all the internals last year, so I held off replacing them. I used the All Balls seal and bushing kits...which I'm very happy with.

I'll probably lay in a couple of sets of OEM dust seals for down the road, but will look elsewhere for the other consumables if/when the need arises.

Climate has a lot to do with the way rubber ages. Some folks may need to replace such parts more often than others.
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