Losing electrical power randomly, PITA electrical bugs.

[SPOFF]

I have a electrical problem where I suddenly lose all power. It will be a bear to track down because it only happens once or twice a year and the problem corrects itself even before the bike coasts to a stop. There are plenty of threads in the archives so I know I need to check the ignition switch, redo the engine ground, check the secret 30 amp fuse on the starter relay, and generally look for loose connectors and wires.

Here's my question: About two years ago a bad connection to the starter relay burnt up the relay, melted the plug and some of the wiring. As many of you know, the wiring harness is not easily repairable so I spliced in a starter relay plug from a Honda CBR 929. I also replaced the starter relay with a unit used in many Honda ATVs. It is identical to the OEM Valkyrie relay except it was $6 on Amazon, not $68 at the dealer. Of course this is the unit with the 30 amp fuse. Would it be advisible to get a "real" OEM relay and maybe a better 30 amp socket? Or is Honda bending me over for the $68?

Meanwhile I can't diagnose a problem that may not show up again for months. But if my Valkyrie randomly dies when I'm passing a truck in the White Mountains... that would be bad. Also if it is the ignition switch that is dying it will eventually strand me. I plan to prefabricate jumpers to hot wire the bike. Anyone done this?

[WintrSol]

It could be those things you mention, but it could also be a battery that has internal damage, like a cracked terminal connection. Rare, but if you take the seat and battery cover off, you can try pulling on the cables, so see if you get power glitches.

[indybobm]

I don't think I would trust a $6 starter relay. Even a used Honda relay would be better.

[Valker]

When you sy "all power", do you meean the lights and stuff goes off, or just the engine? If engine only, the kill switch has also been a source of many issues. I take mine apart on occasiona and really do a thorough job of cleaning with an electrical contact cleaner.

[SPOFF]

When you sy "all power", do you meean the lights and stuff goes off, or just the engine?

It's all (or most) of the power in that the directionals go out as well as the ignition. If the power would stay off more than 30 seconds I would have time to check to see if the headlight goes out as well. If the headlight is still on, this narrows it down to circuit one in the ignition switch. But a momentary interruption at the 30 amp starter relay fuse would kill both ignition switch circuits. I will start there. Meanwhile, I don't think I will riding at night.

Sadly it is October and the start of New Hampshire's 6-month winter, so this teardown will need to wait.      I'll be switching to my KLR until Spring.   

[longrider]

Give us a better idea of long long the engine cuts off.  Is it a few seconds or just a split second

[RonW]

Perhaps, post some pics of the starter relay. Somebody may spot a non-obvious problem.

[gordonv]

My first thought is the main wire harness coupler. The one below the battery box.

as the bike been through the wet? Mine would act up when riding in the rain, and go away a few days later when dry.

Of course, it is less likely than those other items you mentioned.

[Doug1952]

Hi SPOFF;

My 2001 was doing the same thing as you described.  The problem turned out to be the starter relay connector and was easy to spot after it left me stranded in La Crosse, WI.   I purchased a used wiring harness from e-bay and spliced the new-to-me relay socket in my 01 wiring harness.  I'm not convinced it won't happen again, and may install a Ford relay that was described in an earlier thread. 

[Wayn-O]

If it were me, I'd clean my starter relay and kill switch and add a secondary ground wire from the neg of battery to the frame.  Then wait and see.

[SPOFF]

Thanks for the feedback. When the power drops it is only for about 15 to 30 seconds. And it has happened twice in maybe 2,000 miles. The Valk was apart all summer for a frame up restore. It looks brand new and runs better than new. I just need to stomp out this bug so I can trust it.

The first thing I will do is recheck my work repairing the OEM starter solenoid. The problem started after that repair. Partzilla has a "real" OEM solenoid for $48 and a brand new 30 amp fuse can't hurt. And of course fix the engine ground. I remember reading a comment about someone who went through 3 solenoids before he fixed the ground.

[SPOFF]

Quick update: I checked the solenoid and its connections and the 30 amp fuse is a piece of crap, with one of the tangs sort of loose. I replaced it with the OEM spare. Let's see if the problem comes back.

[Paladin528]

check for corrosion on the kill switch contacts.  Had the same issue when I first got the bike. cleaned the contacts and never had an issue since