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RiderMike
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« on: October 19, 2018, 02:03:13 PM » |
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I"m seriously looking at buying a first generation Valkyrie. What are some things I need to be aware of that may not be readily obvious with bikes that appear in great condition? What are the availability now of spare parts and accessories.
Mike
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sandy
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« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2018, 02:30:58 PM » |
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Mike; You don't show your location. It might help us find a valk for you. D&D Discount MC has an interstate that will be for sale once he gets new tires and a carb rebuild done. I saw it yesterday and it's nice. It has the pod lights which are hard to find. Also has a very nice custom paint job. They are in Tempe, AZ. Call 480-731-9003 and ask for Mark (owner).
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5760
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2018, 04:05:23 PM » |
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There is a doc in Shoptalk with all your answers. Known Valkyrie Problems |
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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rocketray
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« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2018, 03:31:41 AM » |
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Fortunately the bikes are very reliable--in 16 years and 55k mine has been garaged nearly every nite--really nothing broke-and I didn't baby it nor abuse it-I replaced the seals in the rear end at 50k as rec and the front fork seals at 54k--I had a carb rebuild I didn't need--at 45k--I was trying to put a K&N filter on and somehow screwed that up and it wouldn't run..to local Honda dealer after awhile and had carbs redone but that wasn't the issue...always pay a little more for a cream puff..not much aftermarket stuff/bling anymore but what little you might need--cup holder type stuff/grip heaters/new windshields are easily available---lots of motorcycle for $4-6k.....
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LB
Member
Posts: 84
2003
Upstate South Carolina
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« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2018, 04:04:28 AM » |
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Honda does not make the exhaust system for it anymore. Any replacement will have to be aftermarket, or used parts.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2018, 04:41:17 AM » |
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All the parts you need are available.
All the parts you might like for bling or accessories are not always available, and/or expensive used. So IMHO, it's worth paying more for a bike with bling already on it. (bling may include better seats, windshields, CB radios, better shocks, racks, and bag rails are especially nice to have).
Ask if the forks leak, ask if the bike has been de-smogged (removed of a half mile of vacuum lines prone to drying out and cracking after 20 years), ask if the petcock has ever been repaired/rebuilt, ask when the brake/clutch/radiator fluids and brake pads and battery were last changed and if the carbs were ever synched, and ask if he did anything to the exhaust pipes. Ask him to show you how to use the choke/enrichener for cold starts. Ask if he broke any side-cover mount tabs, and if so how he repaired them (they must be popped off in front, then pivoted out to unhook the back). Ask if he replaced the shocks, and if so what length did he get (13" is stock, and 12.5" is OK, but shorter than that makes you drag parts too soon in leans, unless you never lean). Ask if he kept a maintenance log (you want it), and for a factory manual.
Pull the dipstick to look at the oil quality. Look through the sight glass on the master cylinders to see how dark the fluid is. Shiny wheels are nice (and the hardest cleaning job there is on most of these bikes); battleship grey wheels are a lot of work to make shiny.
Ask if he is throwing in a bike jack and adapter.
Good tires are nice, but how old are they? (learn how to read the mfr dates on the sidewalls)
Make up your mind if you want an Interstate with fairing, trunk, 7 gal tank, gauges, radio (maybe a CB) before your buy a Tourer or Standard made into a Tourer, and later wish you had bought an Interstate. Historically, a used Interstate went for around a $1K higher than the others, but it costs more than that to try and add things to a std/tourer to make it similar to an Interstate.
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« Last Edit: October 20, 2018, 04:50:48 AM by Jess from VA »
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Cracker Jack
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« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2018, 07:33:15 AM » |
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All the parts you need are available.
All the parts you might like for bling or accessories are not always available, and/or expensive used. So IMHO, it's worth paying more for a bike with bling already on it. (bling may include better seats, windshields, CB radios, better shocks, racks, and bag rails are especially nice to have).
Ask if the forks leak, ask if the bike has been de-smogged (removed of a half mile of vacuum lines prone to drying out and cracking after 20 years), ask if the petcock has ever been repaired/rebuilt, ask when the brake/clutch/radiator fluids and brake pads and battery were last changed and if the carbs were ever synched, and ask if he did anything to the exhaust pipes. Ask him to show you how to use the choke/enrichener for cold starts. Ask if he broke any side-cover mount tabs, and if so how he repaired them (they must be popped off in front, then pivoted out to unhook the back). Ask if he replaced the shocks, and if so what length did he get (13" is stock, and 12.5" is OK, but shorter than that makes you drag parts too soon in leans, unless you never lean). Ask if he kept a maintenance log (you want it), and for a factory manual.
Pull the dipstick to look at the oil quality. Look through the sight glass on the master cylinders to see how dark the fluid is. Shiny wheels are nice (and the hardest cleaning job there is on most of these bikes); battleship grey wheels are a lot of work to make shiny.
Ask if he is throwing in a bike jack and adapter.
Good tires are nice, but how old are they? (learn how to read the mfr dates on the sidewalls)
Make up your mind if you want an Interstate with fairing, trunk, 7 gal tank, gauges, radio (maybe a CB) before your buy a Tourer or Standard made into a Tourer, and later wish you had bought an Interstate. Historically, a used Interstate went for around a $1K higher than the others, but it costs more than that to try and add things to a std/tourer to make it similar to an Interstate.
I believe you've got that side cover removal procedure backards.  |
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #7 on: October 20, 2018, 11:26:04 AM » |
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All the parts you need are available.
All the parts you might like for bling or accessories are not always available, and/or expensive used. So IMHO, it's worth paying more for a bike with bling already on it. (bling may include better seats, windshields, CB radios, better shocks, racks, and bag rails are especially nice to have).
Ask if the forks leak, ask if the bike has been de-smogged (removed of a half mile of vacuum lines prone to drying out and cracking after 20 years), ask if the petcock has ever been repaired/rebuilt, ask when the brake/clutch/radiator fluids and brake pads and battery were last changed and if the carbs were ever synched, and ask if he did anything to the exhaust pipes. Ask him to show you how to use the choke/enrichener for cold starts. Ask if he broke any side-cover mount tabs, and if so how he repaired them (they must be popped off in front, then pivoted out to unhook the back). Ask if he replaced the shocks, and if so what length did he get (13" is stock, and 12.5" is OK, but shorter than that makes you drag parts too soon in leans, unless you never lean). Ask if he kept a maintenance log (you want it), and for a factory manual.
Pull the dipstick to look at the oil quality. Look through the sight glass on the master cylinders to see how dark the fluid is. Shiny wheels are nice (and the hardest cleaning job there is on most of these bikes); battleship grey wheels are a lot of work to make shiny.
Ask if he is throwing in a bike jack and adapter.
Good tires are nice, but how old are they? (learn how to read the mfr dates on the sidewalls)
Make up your mind if you want an Interstate with fairing, trunk, 7 gal tank, gauges, radio (maybe a CB) before your buy a Tourer or Standard made into a Tourer, and later wish you had bought an Interstate. Historically, a used Interstate went for around a $1K higher than the others, but it costs more than that to try and add things to a std/tourer to make it similar to an Interstate.
I believe you've got that side cover removal procedure backards. I believe you're right.  |
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RiderMike
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« Reply #8 on: October 21, 2018, 12:02:30 PM » |
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Thanks to all for their input. |
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Bagger John - #3785
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« Reply #9 on: October 22, 2018, 07:21:27 AM » |
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That "known problems" link is missing the clutch damper plate failure. The U-joint failure is also missing.
In another thread, some posters commented they're on the original clutch/damper plate assembly @ well over 100k miles, while others over the years have gotten significantly less that that. Ditto the U-joints.
Design defect? Bad run of parts? Drag racing, towing heavy trailers, dumping the clutch? Would be interesting to get a data matrix together and identify commonalities (or not...).
I do none of the latter three, and haven't had a clutch or U-joint problem with the five Valkyries I own or have owned. Nonetheless, I plan to lay in a spare damper plate. Blondie bought a spare U-joint for us many years ago and I keep it in my parts stash, against the day of need.
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2018, 11:09:56 AM » |
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I lost a Ujoint in the year after buying my 2d Valk.
That bike had had two bottles of nitrous hooked up for some wet-shot drag strip launches.
I asked him to remove it (before I took possession) since it's unlawful in VA.
I cannot say for sure what caused my Ujoint to grenade, but I have my suspicions.
(On the other hand, that bike has a perfect clutch, all these years later.)
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