Clunking from front forks

[auditray2007]

I have a clunking noise from the front forks when I go over a speed bump. It has always been there even after forks were overhauled. Very same noise!

I looked through the site and only found this post by Rickey D
"Going over anything that will unload the front will allow the forks to fully extend and usually will involve some kind of clunk, the seriousness of the unloading will necessarily affect the intensity of the "clunk"!

This describes the problem to a T! Could this be the way Honda let the bikes out? Why not put some sort of a rubber washer etc to prevent it?

Can anyone elaborate on this.

[Chrisj CMA]

Another thing it can be is the brake pads.  If going over that same bump with front brakes applied changes the sound, then tightening the springs that control the pads can help

[hubcapsc]

It has been a long time since I got into my forks. I'm sure they shouldn't
seem clunky, though. There's some "length adjustment" frobs (that's what
they seem to do to me) inside the forks (at the top I think)... they
can be threaded on an arbitrary amount while you're re-assembling
the forks after a rebuild. If you don't get them normalized to each
other you have to squish one of the forks some to line up the
axle holes. Maybe one side is way tighter than the other and
the loose side goes clunk when you top out? Whatever your problem
turns out to be, Valkyrie forks shouldn't bother you with a bunch of
excessive clunking like you're describing.



I guess you're pretty sure the clunk is from the forks?

-Mike

[auditray2007]

Does it when brake is applied also.

The axle bolt slides in almost for itself. It was there before rip down and after. Adhered to manual all the way during reassembly.

Why does Rickey D make that statement then???

[hubcapsc]

Does it when brake is applied also.

The axle bolt slides in almost for itself. It was there before rip down and after. Adhered to manual all the way during reassembly.

Why does Rickey D make that statement then???

Our bikes' front brakes absolutely can make a clunk related to how
they "float" on those pins, especially when the pins are clean
and lubed.

If the axle (bolt?) slides right through both forks without having
to try and line them up, my suggestion has nothing to do with
your problem.

Only RickyD can speak for himself 

-Mike

[Ricky-D]

Does it when brake is applied also.

The axle bolt slides in almost for itself. It was there before rip down and after. Adhered to manual all the way during reassembly.

Why does Rickey D make that statement then???

First of all, if it is your forks, it's your forks. It's not the brakes, it's not the wheel, it's nothing else but the forks. Stop inhaling all the smoke that's always posted on these threads and lead the ill-informed away in a million different directions.
 
When you had the shocks overhauled, what exactly was performed. If you don't know, then say so. If you do know, then be specific.

***

[Tfrank59]

Does it when brake is applied also.

The axle bolt slides in almost for itself. It was there before rip down and after. Adhered to manual all the way during reassembly.

Why does Rickey D make that statement then???

First of all, if it is your forks, it's your forks. It's not the brakes, it's not the wheel, it's nothing else but the forks. Stop inhaling all the smoke that's always posted on these threads and lead the ill-informed away in a million different directions.
 
When you had the shocks overhauled, what exactly was performed. If you don't know, then say so. If you do know, then be specific.

***

 I think the point is he doesn't know. He says the proper procedure for reassembly was adhered to according to the manual, so we of the ill informed are trying to help him diagnose

[gordonv]

Mine makes noise, but I found a broken bolt for the front fender.

What Ricky-D is saying is, if you say it's the forks, then we have to go by what you said.

If you say there is a noise in the front when you go over a bump, and you ask how do you figure out what might be causing it, are 2 different statements/questions.

[Lyle Laun]

I've got 3 Valks and they all have a clunk in the front forks when going over a speedbump. Not really a big clunk, but a clunk none the less. And mine have all been rebuilt (2 with Progressive springs) and work well otherwise.

Lyle

[auditray2007]

RIHGT! and you made that statement and didn't elaborate on your previous statement which I alluded to. Instead you choose to lambaste me. WHY???

I myself did the overhaul and was malicious in "doing it" for the very reason there was a clunk there!!!! An overhaul to me and to the wider world I would suspect is " a breakdown of components; measured and calibrated and suspect parts replaced. As those efforts leave room for mistakes or errors most people like to replace right of the bat! "As I am in there I may as well replace those items also" comes into play. In my case I replaced every wearable part available "because of the clunk". Thats an overhaul to me and most others!!!

Does it when brake is applied also.

The axle bolt slides in almost for itself. It was there before rip down and after. Adhered to manual all the way during reassembly.

Why does Rickey D make that statement then???

First of all, if it is your forks, it's your forks. It's not the brakes, it's not the wheel, it's nothing else but the forks. Stop inhaling all the smoke that's always posted on these threads and lead the ill-informed away in a million different directions.
  
When you had the shocks overhauled, what exactly was performed. If you don't know, then say so. If you do know, then be specific.

***

[auditray2007]

I've got 3 Valks and they all have a clunk in the front forks when going over a speedbump. Not really a big clunk, but a clunk none the less. And mine have all been rebuilt (2 with Progressive springs) and work well otherwise.

Lyle

Thank you for that Lyle.

I had my suspicions it was nothing serious. When the tubes were done I replaced rotors, pads, seals and springs so that took the brakes out of the equation. The side flaps were stuck fast and it was still there without the windshield and brackets so "they" were not the issue.

I have the wheel off for tire and bearings right now and just wanted to assure myself / readdress the issue  as I "was in there".

Obviously then there is no mod for that clunk or we would be talking about it instead. Screams "buffer" or fibre washer of some kind required to me!

I find it strange that Honda let them out like this or haven't modded it later. Is it even possible? 

I've had Wings for 35 years and never heard anything like that or from other MC either! Then again its only recently all these dam speed bumps have been placed all over the roads here! AND now they want them taken out because of their failure to do what they were suppose to do! Go figure!

[9Ball]

This has come up many times in the last 17 years I have been around here.

Many of the clunking noise issues when going over bumps have been attributed to coming from the front calipers.  They freely float and can make a clunking noise, assuming the pins and boots are in good shape and lubricated.

If the noise is coming from the top of the forks and all your bushings, seals and fluids are new, then I would say not to worry.  These bikes have known quirks but I’ve never heard of a severe safety or handling problem occurring from noisy forks (assuming they haven’t leaked out all the fork fluid!).

You can test the noise from the calipers by moving them by hand in and out until the pads make contact.  The fact that they are recently rebuilt does not take them out of contention for making contact noises.

Just rebuilt my front forks and calipers with all new parts this past August.  Used OEM parts and replaced some that were not needing replacement as I know this will be the last time I do it for my bike...don’t plan on being capable of riding in another 17 years.

Good luck...

[Chrisj CMA]

Does it when brake is applied also.

The axle bolt slides in almost for itself. It was there before rip down and after. Adhered to manual all the way during reassembly.

Why does Rickey D make that statement then???

I missed that statement.  Ricky d has a different point of view than many on the board regularly.  You're doing just fine, if you're still grasping for straws for a cause maybe try lifting the front of the bike so the front wheel is off the ground and see if the steering head bearings are loose.

[auditray2007]

Thanks for the replies guys!

I am aware of the caliper issue and I can say without a shadow of a doubt it is not that sound I am hearing. I hear that issue first thing every time I reverse it out of my garage so I know what it sounds like.

It is when the forks are unloaded I hear it and thats why I mentioned Rickey D post. Its the only post prior to Lyle's I found on this issue which suggests it may be normal to a certain extent!

Again; it sounds like its coming from the top of the forks/ headlight area. Headlight is tight but it does bounce around a bit when slapped up side the head. Normal vibration I have to think! Nothing in that area it could be hitting off after the windshield is removed though. If I am not mistaken I took it off and went for a drive and the noise was still there. Was going through knee ligament damage at the time so maybe I am mistaken on that. Its something I will do again to make sure.

The cut out in the windshield always had less clearance on the top of the circle that the bottom. 5/8" on the top to  3/4" on the bottom !  As all the brackets are straight and it mounts back on without any trouble I am left with the fact that the PO sliced an inch off the top of the screen. "I wonder if that's all he did to it". The circle seems to be untouched in that it looks like a factory precision cut out and finish as opposed to the finish on the top which leaves more to be desired! I am now wondering if it is the "unloading" which is sending the headlight skyward and hitting the shield cutout. Its an area I will address again. 

Sorry; I forgot to mention the steering head bearings were also done at that time ! Whilst in the area and all that!!!

[longrider]

Well Auditray I know your pain.   I was chasing the exact same clunk for a long time.  Changed out most wearable parts Finally even changed steering bearings.    Guess what.    It’s still there.   I’m just going to ride.

[indybobm]

I know that is hard to chase down mysterious noises. Sometimes it is difficult to be sure where they are actually coming from. I do not think that this is a noise that is a common noise for the 97-03 Valkyries.

Have you checked the circled bolt in the following picture for tightness? 

[hubcapsc]

The windshield hooks onto brackets which are near the top of
the forks. There's a hard to reach bolt on each side associated
with the brackets up under the top plate on each side... One of
them was loose on my 1500 recently, and when I hunted for
the clunk sound I heard when riding down my unpaved driveway
out onto my unpaved street, that's what it was...



-Mike

[nogrey]

Is it possible that the forks are over-filled with hydraulic fluid? If (just saying if) they were, it seems like a loud clunk would be possible when the forks were compressed hard enough. I know you followed instructions, but hey, a mistake is possible. Just a thought.

[Moonshot_1]

Thanks for the replies guys!

I am aware of the caliper issue and I can say without a shadow of a doubt it is not that sound I am hearing. I hear that issue first thing every time I reverse it out of my garage so I know what it sounds like.

It is when the forks are unloaded I hear it and thats why I mentioned Rickey D post. Its the only post prior to Lyle's I found on this issue which suggests it may be normal to a certain extent!

Again; it sounds like its coming from the top of the forks/ headlight area. Headlight is tight but it does bounce around a bit when slapped up side the head. Normal vibration I have to think! Nothing in that area it could be hitting off after the windshield is removed though. If I am not mistaken I took it off and went for a drive and the noise was still there. Was going through knee ligament damage at the time so maybe I am mistaken on that. Its something I will do again to make sure.

The cut out in the windshield always had less clearance on the top of the circle that the bottom. 5/8" on the top to  3/4" on the bottom !  As all the brackets are straight and it mounts back on without any trouble I am left with the fact that the PO sliced an inch off the top of the screen. "I wonder if that's all he did to it". The circle seems to be untouched in that it looks like a factory precision cut out and finish as opposed to the finish on the top which leaves more to be desired! I am now wondering if it is the "unloading" which is sending the headlight skyward and hitting the shield cutout. Its an area I will address again. 

Sorry; I forgot to mention the steering head bearings were also done at that time ! Whilst in the area and all that!!!

Few years back I had an issue that seems very much like the one you are describing. Had a very distinct "clunk" coming from the top of the forks and headlight area when going over bumps and when I would use the front brake and compress the forks.

After trying to track it down to the point of insanity, I discovered that one of the retaining springs for a front brake pad had not been installed properly and had no longer held the pad solidly in place. When I hit a bump or used the brake, the pad would strike the top of the caliper and transmit the sound to the headlight. EVEN WHEN I DISCOVERED THIS AND COULD MAKE THE NOISE BY PUSHING THE PAD UP BY  HAND the sound seemed to come from the headlight area. I could feel it at the pad but hear it way up at the top of the forks.

For quite a while I had figured it was a fork problem. But then I noticed that it didn't make the clunk when I went over bumps with the brake applied. It would clunk when I used the brake initially but while going over bumps with the brake applied killed the clunk until I released the brake. The clunk clunk clunk.

Just another story. Maybe it helps, maybe not.

Good luck and let us know if you find the gremlin.

I know you don't think it has anything to do with the brakes.

[auditray2007]

RIHGT! and you made that statement and didn't elaborate on your previous statement which I alluded to. Instead you choose to lambaste me. WHY???

I myself did the overhaul and was malicious in "doing it" for the very reason there was a clunk there!!!! An overhaul to me and to the wider world I would suspect is " a breakdown of components; measured and calibrated and suspect parts replaced. As those efforts leave room for mistakes or errors most people like to replace right of the bat! "As I am in there I may as well replace those items also" comes into play. In my case I replaced every wearable part available "because of the clunk". Thats an overhaul to me and most others!!!

You poor abused man, I didn't really mean to hurt your feelings, I just thought you knew what your problem was.

I was honestly trying to help you, but I see now that that was futile, I should have known better.

I'm sure you will receive adequate help from others.

***

Sorry ass comment no more than the first one!!!!!!!!!!!

[auditray2007]

Thanks for the replies guys!

The oil is spot on to the ml. Purchased a measured container to make sure of that.

Hubcapsc; definitely tight! Will drive it again without all of those gubbing on there to see what happens.

Indybobm; Definitely tight!

Chrisj; Nice one!

Moonshot; I'll check this out again taking your advise on board. Its off the road for winter so I will post my findings ASAP. Thanks

[Jess from VA]

I have two Interstates.

Soon after the higher mileage one had a complete fork rebuild (all wear parts, oil, and PS springs), I started to get a mild clunk whenever braking (more at slower speeds, but I think this is just because there is less other noise at lower speeds).  It's kind of a hollow sounding clunk (thoink).  

I've put it up on the lift and rapped all over with a rubber mallet, and shook the front end/wheel, but can never get it to replicate what happens when riding.

I think it's just my brakes/one caliper (maybe a weak pad spring).  I think the sound transmits up the forks (or one of them), inside the fairing on top, and this is what makes it sound hollow.

I gave up looking, everything works fine.

What you absolutely don't want to do, it hit speed bumps hard enough to rub/bend your kickstand cross-member and attachment parts.

Years ago, I lowered a Kawasaki 800A for my wife.  To lower the forks, you put in longer than OE internal PVC tube spacers.  Thereafter, that bike's forks clunked when loading and unloading.

[turtle254]

Thanks for the replies guys!

The oil is spot on to the ml. Purchased a measured container to make sure of that.

Hubcapsc; definitely tight! Will drive it again without all of those gubbing on there to see what happens.

Indybobm; Definitely tight!

Chrisj; Nice one!

I had same problem … checked oil amt. and right on … changed it out, same clunk.

tried adding more than the set amt. each side(1/2oz). and problem when away.
So just for good measure added another 1oz; so have 1 1/2 oz more than set amt.
Better ride to. Could fell the clunk all the way into the handlebars. 

ease to do and undo … might be worth a try for you.

Moonshot; I'll check this out again taking your advise on board. Its off the road for winter so I will post my findings ASAP. Thanks

[Punisher]

I worked on one that had a fork clunk as you describe, could feel it in the handlebars.

It turned out to be the cap in the right fork.   The threads were stripped where the rod screws into the bottom of it and the rod was floating around on bumps and smacking the bottom of the cap.

Replaced the cap (expensive!) and all was well.

[Led]

Mine have always "clunked" from day one.   Even all my Honda dirt bikes did that.  If you hit something hard, they will do that.....

Just all the fork fluid, looking for a place to go........REAL fast, is all!!  

Never worried about it, and they still work...............

[9Ball]

I worked on one that had a fork clunk as you describe, could feel it in the handlebars.

It turned out to be the cap in the right fork.   The threads were stripped where the rod screws into the bottom of it and the rod was floating around on bumps and smacking the bottom of the cap.

Replaced the cap (expensive!) and all was well.

That’s a good heads up for anyone rebuilding their forks....one side (I forget which) has a tight gap that makes it hard to get a wrench in place to properly tighten the locking nut.  When I installed progressive springs back in 2001 I had to grind an open end wrench to a thinner profile to fit into the gap.

Those fork caps sure are pricey!