handle bar replacement

[Tx Bohemian]

Is there anything specific about the Valk (Standard) handlebars (maybe holes for certain aligning like for the brake/clutch mstr cyl, etc...) or would any 1" bar work?

Maybe I just got weird hands or I'm use to the C50 but the position of the bars at  the throttle/clutch controls just bug the heck out of me!!  Kinda cramps too after a lengthy ride. 

I can pick up a set of old Volusia bars quite cheap and I'm thinking with that (different hand positioning) and the right risers I can make this thing fit me better.

[Black Dog]

You are correct, that there are 'nubs' that help align the switch boxes on either side, but you can use bars without them.  Another thing are the 'nubs' that hold the plastic clips that hold the cables in place, again, you can work around this.

These are 'Wild1 Chubbys RK518's' ( http://www.wild1inc.com/ )...  1 1/4", but 'necked down to 1" at the clamp area, and the bar ends.  I like the increased pull back, and the slightly lower hand position.  I also have Cycle House risers, and did not change cables, but they are at their limit.



They have everything from 'Beach Bars' to 'Apes'...

Black Dog

[Tx Bohemian]

Thanks Black Dog,

I see the "nubs" for the wire hangers you talk about.  The previous owner had the wires from the switches run inside the bars but the nubs are still there.  Unfortunately where the wires run into the bars at the grips is the same place the clamp for a "throttle lock" goes.

The brake/clutch lines and throttle cables have been replaced and are longer so hopefully I won't have a length issue with whatever bars or risers I need to use.

Thanks again, Al

[John Schmidt]

I got a 1 1/4" Blem from Wild1, works great and I ran the wires inside. One thing if you decide to run the wires inside; remove the large plastic tubing around the wire bundle and wrap with elec. tape or wire bundle tape. If you use the bundle tape which isn't sticky, you have to tape down the ends. By taping the wires it makes them smaller as a bundle and easier to pull through. And when pulling through, be sure to use regular rubbing alcohol for a lube. Works great anytime you're trying to move anything like soft plastic or rubber against or inside metal. It evaporates quickly and doesn't leave any residue.

[Jess from VA]

I have heard that Yami venture bars are very similar to valk bars in profile, but 2 inches narower.

The guy who sold me my supervalk had them, but I didn't get them.  He still has them.

[Tx Bohemian]

I have heard that Yami venture bars are very similar to valk bars in profile, but 2 inches narower.

The guy who sold me my supervalk had them, but I didn't get them.  He still has them.

Thanks again for the info fellas. 

I measured the Valk bars and the C50 bars, the C50 bars are 2" wider at the end of the grips, this I like plus to me they are more ergonomically pleasing.  They both have the same pullback distance from the centerline at the risers to an imaginary line across the end of the grips, 13", down the centerline of the bike.

As far as running the wires inside the bars, I don't see a need.  If everything ran through the bars (wires, clutch lines, etc...) to me it would be different, but just the wires doesn't do it for me when the other lines are still there.  But, you know, "to each his own".