Jersey's Shifter Mod- 2nd Group purchase anyone?

[indybobm]

I guess I do not understand the confusion about the left lower subframe. according to Partzilla, all 1997-2003 lower subframes have the same part number.

Left Subframe Part Number      
    Std/Tourer                           IS
1997   50184-MZ0-000   
1998   50184-MZ0-000   
1999   50184-MZ0-000   50184-MZ0-000
2000   50184-MZ0-000   50184-MZ0-000
2001   50184-MZ0-000   50184-MZ0-000
2002   50184-MZ0-000   
2003   50184-MZ0-000   

[Jersey]

I guess I do not understand the confusion about the left lower subframe. according to Partzilla, all 1997-2003 lower subframes have the same part number.

Left Subframe Part Number      
    Std/Tourer                           IS
1997   50184-MZ0-000   
1998   50184-MZ0-000   
1999   50184-MZ0-000   50184-MZ0-000
2000   50184-MZ0-000   50184-MZ0-000
2001   50184-MZ0-000   50184-MZ0-000
2002   50184-MZ0-000   
2003   50184-MZ0-000   

May want to check that:  Showing 99-01 frame as: 50100-MBY-000
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1999/gl1500cf-a-valkyrie-interstate/frame

I just noticed that I did refer to the Frame p/n as 'subframe' and the SubFrame as 'left brace'.  Pardon if that caused any confusion.

[indybobm]

You are right on that but i thought we were talking about the lower sub-frame item #4 in the fiche.
So you are thinking that because the frame is a different part number, the engine might be located in a slightly different position?

[Jersey]

You are right on that but i thought we were talking about the lower sub-frame item #4 in the fiche.
So you are thinking that because the frame is a different part number, the engine might be located in a slightly different position?

Well it's something to consider, especially since someone had posted a different measurement.

[indybobm]

Edited
this is the collection of Posts concerning Shifter Modification that I have bookmarked over the years.

Shift Mod Post started by:

peppilepew on Sep 30, 2014  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,74563.0.html

Fisch on June 10 2015 (second page of peppilepew post) http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,74563.40.html

PharmBoy on Aug 30, 2015 (later on second page of peppilepew post) http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,74563.40.html

ammpro on Sep 30, 2015   http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,81509.0.html

Jersey on Nov 25, 2018   http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,104285.0.html

pancho on Nov 29, 2018   http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,104321.0.html

[Jersey]

Indybobm:  nice listing.  The 30mm offset of the shift extension makes sense and folks seems to be consistent in designing to that.  (Although I'll highlight my dim is 1/32" off ).  What has me concerned is the range of distances on the vertical brace off the crash bar bolt that folks have shown success... anywhere from 5/8 to 1-1/4".  Why such a variation? 

[turtle254]

5/8" dim is my measurement c/c trans shaft to frame bolt. But I made a proto, and 1" works fine. 5/8" would bind and 1.25 would bind, used 1" instead.
I think that the frame bolt hole is not 90 deg from engine/trans shaft, so the bolt head is like 6" away from trans shaft; a few deg of lean of the bolt off 90 deg would move point of rotation a lot.  I had assumed the frame bolt was parallel  with trans shaft, not so.

[Jersey]

5/8" dim is my measurement c/c trans shaft to frame bolt. But I made a proto, and 1" works fine. 5/8" would bind and 1.25 would bind, used 1" instead.
I think that the frame bolt hole is not 90 deg from engine/trans shaft, so the bolt head is like 6" away from trans shaft; a few deg of lean of the bolt off 90 deg would move point of rotation a lot.  I had assumed the frame bolt was parallel  with trans shaft, not so.

Actually 1" matches Ammpro's 25mm distance.  So maybe there isn't a difference among the models????

[WintrSol]

5/8" dim is my measurement c/c trans shaft to frame bolt. But I made a proto, and 1" works fine. 5/8" would bind and 1.25 would bind, used 1" instead.
I think that the frame bolt hole is not 90 deg from engine/trans shaft, so the bolt head is like 6" away from trans shaft; a few deg of lean of the bolt off 90 deg would move point of rotation a lot.  I had assumed the frame bolt was parallel  with trans shaft, not so.

+1 I just went down, and sighted as straight down the gearshift arm as possible, to see the distance from the center of the spindle to the bolt, and it appears, to me, that it is 7/8" to 1".

[indybobm]

5/8" dim is my measurement c/c trans shaft to frame bolt. But I made a proto, and 1" works fine. 5/8" would bind and 1.25 would bind, used 1" instead.
I think that the frame bolt hole is not 90 deg from engine/trans shaft, so the bolt head is like 6" away from trans shaft; a few deg of lean of the bolt off 90 deg would move point of rotation a lot.  I had assumed the frame bolt was parallel  with trans shaft, not so.

Actually 1" matches Ammpro's 25mm distance.  So maybe there isn't a difference among the models????

If you look at the pictures in ammpros post (RIP) you will notice that the Shift Gear Arm (bellcrank) is NOT parallel to the rear Crash Bar Bolt.

Also the piece that he used from McMaster Carr is 1" center-to-center.

[Jersey]

5/8" dim is my measurement c/c trans shaft to frame bolt. But I made a proto, and 1" works fine. 5/8" would bind and 1.25 would bind, used 1" instead.
I think that the frame bolt hole is not 90 deg from engine/trans shaft, so the bolt head is like 6" away from trans shaft; a few deg of lean of the bolt off 90 deg would move point of rotation a lot.  I had assumed the frame bolt was parallel  with trans shaft, not so.

Actually 1" matches Ammpro's 25mm distance.  So maybe there isn't a difference among the models????

If you look at the pictures in ammpros post (RIP) you will notice that the Shift Gear Arm (bellcrank) is NOT parallel to the rear Crash Bar Bolt.

Also the piece that he used from McMaster Carr is 1" center-to-center.

yeah, that's what I meant.  1" = 25.4mm

[Jersey]

5/8" dim is my measurement c/c trans shaft to frame bolt. But I made a proto, and 1" works fine. 5/8" would bind and 1.25 would bind, used 1" instead.
I think that the frame bolt hole is not 90 deg from engine/trans shaft, so the bolt head is like 6" away from trans shaft; a few deg of lean of the bolt off 90 deg would move point of rotation a lot.  I had assumed the frame bolt was parallel  with trans shaft, not so.

Actually 1" matches Ammpro's 25mm distance.  So maybe there isn't a difference among the models????

If you look at the pictures in ammpros post (RIP) you will notice that the Shift Gear Arm (bellcrank) is NOT parallel to the rear Crash Bar Bolt.

Also the piece that he used from McMaster Carr is 1" center-to-center.

yeah, that's what I meant.  1" = 25.4mm

So after a few checks by other members it does appear that all the Valk models are the same measurement of the discussed bolt/spline offset... despite the I/S having a different frame p/n for 99-01

1" or 25.4mm appears to be the sweet spot and will be what my design will use.

So, regardless of the model we should be golden (as they say) for all models.  If you're interested send me a PM.  Money can be sent to my paypal addy in my profile.  I'll be creating an email listing to keep everyone informed who joins in.

[JimC]

Jersey,
I have not seen a price listed, or did I miss it?
Jim

[Jersey]

Jersey,
I have not seen a price listed, or did I miss it?
Jim

It's in the first posting "Update"  $70 shipped Cont US

[Jersey]

Thought I'd show the Final Shifter Mod. 

[Avanti]

Looks nice and neat.

[Jersey]

Looks nice and neat.

Thanks! I think the shiny Stainless Steel should do well over time. 

[Tfrank59]

Thought I'd show the Final Shifter Mod.  

That looks great.  Could you possibly make a short video of it in motion, like shifting it up and down with your boot?

[RonW]

there's a similar video at (unsure of the author) .....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vjrRYBCwY4

[indybobm]

there's a similar video at (unsure of the author) .....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vjrRYBCwY4

Same guy - Jersey

[Jersey]

there's a similar video at (unsure of the author) .....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vjrRYBCwY4

Yep. That's my video of the prototype.  The final design is a bit nicer I think!

[WintrSol]

Just got the hardware from Jersey - very shiny! Note that the lines on the surface are exaggerated by the flash, and are almost invisible to the eye.

Starting the install process right away!

[Tfrank59]

there's a similar video at (unsure of the author) .....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vjrRYBCwY4

Yep. That's my video of the prototype.  The final design is a bit nicer I think!

Okay, I now remember you had posted that!  diminishing grey matter between my ears

[WintrSol]

I installed the mod today, and everything liked up perfectly - didn't need to change the spacing of the engine guard at all. I deviated from the instructions, in that I drilled an 8mm hole for the main bracket bolt, instead of 11/32" (8.73125mm), since there is more than adequate clearance in the  curved slot in the main bracket to allow for minor deviation in centering. Shifting by hand, it feels much smoother, with none of the end wobble in the shifter that was there before.  Too much snow and ice around for a test ride, so that will have to wait; from the looks of the forecast, it won't be very soon.

[Brewer]

Like WinterSol, I have mine in hand and it will be sometime before a test ride. North facing driveway and snow in the street. Also colder in the garage than I like for wrenching.

[indybobm]

Got mine today. Too damn cold to be messing with it but it looks great.

[3W-lonerider]

got mine monday. gonna install it this weekend. great looking apparatis.

[Paladin528]

how do i get me one of these?

[mrgeoff]

I like the way it seems to work...Was wondering if there is some modification for those that have a Rattlebar Heel/Toe Shifter...The H/T Shifter comes out more on the front with a kind of loop that I see might interfere with the mounting bolt on the shift lever...Maybe an extra long bolt to mount so the H/T Shifter bracket has the proper spacing...It is kind of hard to describe but I am sure there is a way to modify your Shifter Bracket so the Rattlebar H/T Shifter doesn't bind or hit your Shifter bolt...!!! If this could be accomplished, I would be interested in buying one...!!!

[WintrSol]

how do i get me one of these?

You can try sending a PM to Jersey, see if he has any to spare.

[Jersey]

I like the way it seems to work...Was wondering if there is some modification for those that have a Rattlebar Heel/Toe Shifter...The H/T Shifter comes out more on the front with a kind of loop that I see might interfere with the mounting bolt on the shift lever...Maybe an extra long bolt to mount so the H/T Shifter bracket has the proper spacing...It is kind of hard to describe but I am sure there is a way to modify your Shifter Bracket so the Rattlebar H/T Shifter doesn't bind or hit your Shifter bolt...!!! If this could be accomplished, I would be interested in buying one...!!!

Can you send a few pictures from different angles?  I'll take a look.

[3W-lonerider]

I like the way it seems to work...Was wondering if there is some modification for those that have a Rattlebar Heel/Toe Shifter...The H/T Shifter comes out more on the front with a kind of loop that I see might interfere with the mounting bolt on the shift lever...Maybe an extra long bolt to mount so the H/T Shifter bracket has the proper spacing...It is kind of hard to describe but I am sure there is a way to modify your Shifter Bracket so the Rattlebar H/T Shifter doesn't bind or hit your Shifter bolt...!!! If this could be accomplished, I would be interested in buying one...!!!

I looked at mine and I don't think its going to interfere with my rattle bar shifter. But I'll go to the shed this morning and post back about that. I'll put it up against where it will go and check.

[3W-lonerider]

I like the way it seems to work...Was wondering if there is some modification for those that have a Rattlebar Heel/Toe Shifter...The H/T Shifter comes out more on the front with a kind of loop that I see might interfere with the mounting bolt on the shift lever...Maybe an extra long bolt to mount so the H/T Shifter bracket has the proper spacing...It is kind of hard to describe but I am sure there is a way to modify your Shifter Bracket so the Rattlebar H/T Shifter doesn't bind or hit your Shifter bolt...!!! If this could be accomplished, I would be interested in buying one...!!!

I looked at mine and I don't think its going to interfere with my rattle bar shifter. But I'll go to the shed this morning and post back about that. I'll put it up against where it will go and check.

Ok i just checked. It does interfere. But i have a way around that. Put extra washers behind my heel to toe shifter. And shim it out so the other peice can go behind it without binding.

[Jersey]

So, we've successfully sponsored a round of purchases for the Shifter Mod.  The responses from everyone have been great!  The improvement makes shifting solid (no more sloppiness!!), the cost is reasonable and installation is very easy.

With this success, I'll be continuing to take orders for group purchases. 

How this will work:  I'll continue to submit orders for 10 or more pre-paid units for as long as people want to get this.  I'll also try to keep a few extra units on hand if I can so folks won't have to wait.  (Right now I have 2 extra units if anyone is interested.)

The cost is still $70, which includes shipping.  Just PM me or paypal as 'friends' to my email address ggatinc@gmail.com.

One improvement I've made to the design from the first round is to have them deburr the backside edge of the Shiny 304 Stainless Steel.  The laser cutting seems to great a slight ridge around all of the edges.  It wasn't noticeable from the front, but I didn't like it.

Don't hesitate to PM if you have any questions.  Also, I encourage those who've already received these to post here on what they think of the mod. 

[pancho]

Nice campaign Jersey,, glad to see it all working out and adding to the improvement of several members rides.

[Avanti]

Probably to late to change from laser cutting to water jet. Water jet may give a cleaner cut, but usually comes at a higher price.  

[Jersey]

Probably to late to change from laser cutting to water jet. Water jet may give a cleaner cut, but usually comes at a higher price.  

You're correct.  It's a bit more, plus those suppliers seem to also charge more for the same material.  Lot's of markup.  The laser cut seemed to be the best compromise.  The finished look is really quite nice.

[WintrSol]

One improvement I've made to the design from the first round is to have them deburr the backside edge of the Shiny 304 Stainless Steel.  The laser cutting seems to great a slight ridge around all of the edges.  It wasn't noticeable from the front, but I didn't like it.

No big deal - I just put a buffing wheel in my Dremel and polished the cut edges. It improved the shine and smoothed the slight burrs at the same time. Not that it really needed it, I just had the time.

[psckam]

so i am stupid, what is the purpose of the hole being oblong  in the bracket that attaches to the shifter lever. in the video it appears to be a to non functional. is it merely an adjustment function prior to tightening everything up?
 

[Avanti]

It is so you can adjust the foot lever to different angle; for those that have lowered the angle to give more foot room.