OK, question about the forks.

[John Schmidt]

I already talked to my friend TJ about this but am looking for more input. I have Progressive springs installed and as part of my current maint. project, I'm changing the old fork oil and would like to replace both the dust and oil seals. Before removing the forks, I loosened the caps. Once removed, I tried removing the caps the rest of the way and the lower portion turned with it. OK, so I clamped it into place with the vise and a rag, now the upper part turns, and was too difficult to hold with one hand and use a wrench with the other so I reinserted both forks into the trees and just clamped the bottom tree snug. Next I slipped the axle through to prevent anything from turning and started to unscrew the left cap....and turned it and turned it and turned it. Finally the o-ring showed but at this point I have no idea how much more thread is left. Plus, there seems to be a fair amount of pressure from inside so I'm beginning to wonder if the spring is going to take off for the far side of the garage and splatter oil all over. So my question is.....has anyone done this that has Progressive springs installed? Is there actually a lot of pressure against the cap so the spring is going to come flying out? Kinda bugs me because when I did the forks on my GL1200 project it was a walk in the park. Maybe I'm overthinking it, just looking for some experienced information.

At present I'm waiting on a bunch of parts, rebuild the calipers, new pads, replace all three coolant hoses, etc.  Just wanted to get the forks done while I'm waiting for the rest of the stuff to come in.

[bentwrench]

If you hold the cap and turn the upper tube it should come right off.The caps are lock nutted to the damper and spring seats.

[turtle254]

I have got the progressive springs; I raise the front wheel(now have down pull on the cap), lowering the wheel to put light pressure is what you want. All the weight of bike on the forks puts an upward  pressure on the cap. Get it just right and the cap can be turned by hand and then lower bike and the cap will rise out of the forks so you can add oil or remove cap from the rod.

[John Schmidt]

OK, just realized a problem with the left cap. It appears the dimwit (not me this time) that installed the Progressives cross threaded the cap, at least that's how it's acting. I have it nearly all the way out and it keeps jumping a thread, won't come out any farther. Not sure my next move so just walked away from it for today. Not sure what the trouble is with that side but the threads look a bit galled compared to the right side.  

[Avanti]

I have got the progressive springs; I raise the front wheel(now have down pull on the cap), lowering the wheel to put light pressure is what you want. All the weight of bike on the forks puts an upward  pressure on the cap. Get it just right and the cap can be turned by hand and then lower bike and the cap will rise out of the forks so you can add oil or remove cap from the rod.

Allow a little more up pressure by lowering the front end, this may help push it up as you continue to back the cap out.

[John Schmidt]

FWIW, the wheel and fender have already been removed so adding pressure either up or down is not in the picture. I have the forks slipped back into the trees at the moment and have the axle slipped in place with the idea of preventing the bottom from rotating while turning the cap. To give it some additional downward extension on the forks I might try hanging a 35lb dumbell on the axle just to see if it makes a difference. Stay tuned! 

[turtle254]

Wrong way, push up on the bottom of the forks. Forks as they are now are pushing down, holding the cap down. That's why you can't unscrew them out of the tubes.

[John Schmidt]

Wrong way, push up on the bottom of the forks. Forks as they are now are pushing down, holding the cap down. That's why you can't unscrew them out of the tubes.

Aha....OK, getting late....tomorrow is another day. 

[..]

Any help?  VTX are the same as Valkyrie

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXZPzQqfAXc&feature=youtu.be

[Daniel Meyer]

It's okay if the lower portion turns while you're unscrewing the cap.

On the right fork, you did pull the allen bolt out of the very bottom, yes? (axle has to be out, there's a hole in the very bottom that goes up through the axle area to reach that bolt). That right spring is anchored in the bottom tube. The left one is not.

[John Schmidt]

It's okay if the lower portion turns while you're unscrewing the cap.

On the right fork, you did pull the allen bolt out of the very bottom, yes? (axle has to be out, there's a hole in the very bottom that goes up through the axle area to reach that bolt). That right spring is anchored in the bottom tube. The left one is not.

I've watched the VTX videos and they're not exactly the same. I'm wondering if that allen bolt has to be removed in order to change the seals on that fork. I don't want to completely disassemble it if not necessary. As for the oil seals, looks like they could easily be installed upside down. Doesn't seem to be any markings on the new ones to ID which way is correct. Guess I'll wait until I have one of the old seals out to see if there's any up/down side....which I'm sure there is, just haven't ID'd it at this point.

Guess you can tell, this is my first go-round on Valkyrie forks, more involved than the 1200 forks. Maybe now is a good time to go fix supper for my honey and check back for more input.  

[Valker]

Feel the inside of the seals. If your finger pulls smoother one direction than the other (A slight slant toward one direction) the angle toward which the seal's inside points goes toward the oil. I will TRY to make this clearer: the inner seal will angle this way /oil side or this way oil side\ .

[Itinifni]

Take a look at page 13-30 of the service manual. There a decent photo of the seal going onto the fork. The spring faces the dust seal. There's also a note "Install the oil seal with it's marked side facing the axle holder."

[John Schmidt]

Discovered something today; the right fork doesn't have to have the allen bolt removed in order to separate them for the purpose of replacing the seals. I tried my best with the tools I have and couldn't budge that bolt....believe me, I have a goodly collection of tools. So a short time ago, I figured I'll just pop out the dust seal and the snap ring, yank it a couple times and see what happens. Sucker popped out easier than the left fork, so now it's on with the seal business and new oil. Getting them ready to install when I'm done replacing all three coolant hoses and the radiator. So much easier when you're not hampered by wheels, fenders, forks, etc.,.....it's all right there in front of you.

I have one old pair of jeans that are a testament to the fact there is still a bit more old oil left in there when the forks come apart. Good washing will take care of that, they're a bit like me.....old but not obsolete.