Low Tech Lift Adapter

[hungryarian]

At home for my 1999 IS I assembled Herbert's adapter as it was described. After the first test attempt I realized that the 2x4 lumber as base board was too thick - I could not get the jack underneath. I reassembled the adapter replacing the 2x4 base board with a 15 mm (0,59") filmfaced plywood, everything else remained original and it worked perfectly.
I just wonder what is the max time period a jack can hold on? Should I prepare any additional support for security?
Thanks for your comments in advance.

[Jess from VA]

Unless you are doing something quickly, the smart move with any jack is always to engage the safety bar, usually a notched bar into which another part fits. So you lift a little higher than you need, engage the safety bar, then barely release the hydraulic lever so the jack settles into the locked position.  Once this is done, I always reengage the hydraulic lever (though the jack is now entirely supported by the safety bar, not the hydraulics) (but if it somehow jumped off of the safety bar, the hydraulics would still be engaged).

Now if it will be up for a while, or you are going to be pulling on wrenches, you should add at least one jack stand under one engine guard up front.  If you want to do this right away, do it together with setting the jack safety bar.  Jack a bit higher than you want, get the jack stand as high under an engine guard as you can, set the safety bar in a notch, then let off the hydraulic lever slowly and the bike should settle nicely onto both the jack safety bar AND the jack stand up front.  Now you can jump up and down on the bike (but don't actually do it).  

Others have simply shoved a 2 x 4 in between the scissors of the jack, and then let it down on that... which is the same as using the jack safety bar, though it is probably safer yet, as it's possible the safety bar could come out of the notch, but it's impossible for the 2 x 4 to come out of the scissors without pulling it out.

A trick for helping get the jack and home made adapter under the bike for lifting is to put a piece of 2 x 4/6 under the kickstand.  Holding the bike more upright gives you a bit more room underneath to slide the jack and adapter underneath.

Do not fold up your kickstand once up on the jack.  It's too easy to forget and let the bike down WITHOUT the kick stand deployed, and then the bike will lay all the way over on it's side when you let it down off the jack.  (a WTF maneuver).

Another pointer is to always avoid leaving parts and tools (especially round ones) right next to the bike as you work.  It's real easy to step on a screwdriver/socket extension/yada and slide or fall into the bike, maybe knocking it off the jack.  I always put my parts and tools either under the bike or behind me while working.  

Another nice thing to get is a couple of those magnetized dishes to set nuts, bolts and other small things  in so they don't wander off, never to be found again.  

PS. I also made my adapter using a big flat 1 x 12 as the base.  It slides under easily, and it not really carrying the weight anyway, it's just sandwiched between the jack and the engine bottom.    

[hungryarian]

Jess, thanks for the detailed and thorough explanation, I will process accordingly.

[Jess from VA]

The only other thing I didn't cover is putting a ratchet strap over the bike to the jack.

I've never done it, so I didn't talk about it.  Using a jack stand (or two), you'd have to want to knock the bike over, to knock it over.  IMHO

Also, it goes without saying you want to use the jack on level ground.  My drive is slightly angled, and never been a problem.

The last thing that comes to mind is the handlebars.  Up on the jack, working low, I have come up under a handlebar and smacked my head so hard I see stars, a dozen times.  I refuse to wear a helmet while working on the bike, so the only advice I have is watch out for that. 

[hubcapsc]

I jack mine up on my cheap sears jack, jamb a 1x2 into the
jack scissors and leave it there for days sometimes.

You're very right to think you shouldn't trust just the jack...

-Mike

[0leman]

a Plus 1 on the jack stands.   Been using them since I got my Valk in '08.  once they are in position, I lower the MC jack down a bit.  Rock steady.

There was a several week period when waiting on parts, when she sat there without wheels and forks.   The jack stands kept her up without problems (the MC jack didn't go down either).

[hungryarian]

I would like to attach pictures but I don't know how to do it. Anybody could help me out here?

[..]

I would like to attach pictures but I don't know how to do it. Anybody could help me out here?

https://postimages.org/
Create an account using SIGN UP box top right
Create a new gallery by clicking on the box towards the top left

Upload photos. Do max of 4 at a time or it can take too long.

Once uploaded put your cursor on the image you want to put on the VRCC forum

Now move your cursor to the symbol to left of the trash bin symbol
Click on it
Now copy the "Hotlink" for forums.

Now go to the VRCC post you want the photo to appear in and right click and paste.

Once you then post your comment the photo should appear for all to see.

[hungryarian]

Britman, thanks for your kindness. Let's give a try:

Oops, it looks like working! Great! Thanks again, Britman!
Jess & Mike, thanks for all that handy and pactical advices. I think I could lift and  stabilize my Valk securely - please take a look at the pictures:

[hubcapsc]

I never jack my bike up very far, since I take the rear fender
section off to get at the wheel. You'll have to decide by looking
at your jack and the boards you wedged in there if it seems
safe when you have the bike jacked up very high...



-Mike