Starter gear

[Dereckt94]

Well I finally pulled the trigger and put the Valk on the operating table. I could not stand that loud starter gear skipping over that tooth no longer, hahah made an awful changing noise. I have The engine out and the rear case cover removed to find the gear and it’s missing tooth  . I just have one question for you guys I replaced all my carb needle float valves and the floats on the carbs that lean with kickstand, should I be able to leave the fuel on and get no fuel past the needles now? Before it would still hydrolock with me turning the gas off as soon as a came to my destination, so I would have to plan ahead and shut the gas off a little before I turn her off??? It has a Pingel fuel selector as well. I’m just scared to break this stater gear because this is a lot of work and no ride time hahaha

[Chrisj CMA]

Yes should be able to.  And I would test it. Leave the fuel on for enough time and then remove the spark plugs and either hand roll it in gear or touch the starter and see if you get a fountain or (hopefully) not.

[indybobm]

If the fuel stills flows past the float needles, make sure that the floats are not bottoming out (bottoming up?) against the top of the float chamber. Easy to tell if the carbs are off the bike and upside down with the float bowls removed. One or more floats could be deformed.

[Ricky-D]

Well I finally pulled the trigger and put the Valk on the operating table. I could not stand that loud starter gear skipping over that tooth no longer, hahah made an awful changing noise. I have The engine out and the rear case cover removed to find the gear and it’s missing tooth  . I just have one question for you guys I replaced all my carb needle float valves and the floats on the carbs that lean with kickstand, should I be able to leave the fuel on and get no fuel past the needles now? Before it would still hydrolock with me turning the gas off as soon as a came to my destination, so I would have to plan ahead and shut the gas off a little before I turn her off??? It has a Pingel fuel selector as well. I’m just scared to break this stater gear because this is a lot of work and no ride time hahaha

Are you saying that you still had gotten hydrolocked having the Pingel already on your Valkyrie?

***

[Chrisj CMA]

Well I finally pulled the trigger and put the Valk on the operating table. I could not stand that loud starter gear skipping over that tooth no longer, hahah made an awful changing noise. I have The engine out and the rear case cover removed to find the gear and it’s missing tooth  . I just have one question for you guys I replaced all my carb needle float valves and the floats on the carbs that lean with kickstand, should I be able to leave the fuel on and get no fuel past the needles now? Before it would still hydrolock with me turning the gas off as soon as a came to my destination, so I would have to plan ahead and shut the gas off a little before I turn her off??? It has a Pingel fuel selector as well. I’m just scared to break this stater gear because this is a lot of work and no ride time hahaha

Are you saying that you still had gotten hydrolocked having the Pingel already on your Valkyrie?

***

Having a Pingel fuel valve will not protect against hydrolock if it is left on.  It only eliminates the unknown of a malfunctioning vacuum operated valve.  With a Pingel it's on when it's on and off when it's off.  With the OE valve it could be almost on when on and almost off when off and you won't know till it's too late.

[Dereckt94]

I checked the carbs and it doesn’t appear to be bottoming out I have them upside down on the bench rite now, and I’m not a very good explainer but I was trying to say that when I purchased the bike I knew it had a starter gear tooth missing hence I only paid 1600$ for a nice tourer in pretty good shape besides the windshield being foggy. So I immediately put the Pingel on and capped that vacuum nipple after reading so much good info on here  (thank you all) ))) then I rebuilt the carbs  everything you can and reinstalled, rode it around for 6 months but I noticed it would hydrolock every now and then unless I turned the gas to off maybe a couple blocks away from where I was going, or other wise it would somehow fill up a cylinder with the remaining fuel in the line from the Pingel???  Even tho the Pingel was off and I did check that it does shut completely off, could it be cause I used k&l float needles should I have used one?

[indybobm]

Something else to check with the carbs upside down. The float valves are spring loaded. Gently push down on the float until you meet resistance. Make sure that the float is not hitting the carb body. It does happen especially running ethanol.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I think Indybobm is on to something here. Your floats could very well be warped to the point of even new K&L needles won't let them shut completely.

[Dereckt94]

Okay so I did a little more fiddling around since I’m still waiting on my parts to come in to finish the gear replacement, I swapped all the floats and valves from the left to the rite side of the carb banks to see what would happen and sure enough no more drips so I think you are rite the oe floats are warped beyond there limits so I ordered 6 more floats for all the carbs, I will updat once I get the case back together, thanks guys for the brainstorming

[Dereckt94]

Okay first off thank you all for the advice and help she’s all back together and running smooth I got the oem floats in put everything back together and no more fuel past the needles  I think in the near future I will put the original peacock back on. I would like to know if anyone has any recommendations on the handle bar risers? Which brand would you go for and do the help with your hand going numb? Or do I need a doctor hahaha thanks guys

[Bagger John - #3785]

...I would like to know if anyone has any recommendations on the handle bar risers? Which brand would you go for and do the help with your hand going numb?

Tell us a bit about your torso. And height. Plus your sleeve length. And your riding position.

Show Chrome makes a set with 1/2" rise and 1/2" pullback. Blondie - my ex - is 5'6" with (IIRC) a 33" sleeve length. I set her Tourer up with a set of these risers and it fit her very well. When the bike "came home" (so to say) I put a set of chromed OEM-length risers back on it. Those work well for me, at 6'4" with a 35" sleeve length.

Bar style is going to play into the ergonomic picture too.

[Dereckt94]

I’m 5.9” With a 33” sleeve length I sit pretty normal I try not to slouch so to say and I have lowered the handlebars by loosening the plate and twisting them down. But I still end up having to lock the cruise control every couple of 25 to 30 miles because I can’t feel my right hand.

[Bagger John - #3785]

I’m 5.9” With a 33” sleeve length I sit pretty normal I try not to slouch so to say and I have lowered the handlebars by loosening the plate and twisting them down. But I still end up having to lock the cruise control every couple of 25 to 30 miles because I can’t feel my right hand.

Any shoulder pain?

Does elevating the bars make the condition worse?

How about your left hand if you use the clutch a lot in stop-and-go driving?

Change the grips and see if that helps. Chet (Rattlebars) had a set of Iron Braid (IIRC...) grips on his VTX1800 when he sold the bike to me, and their purpose was to deal with a numbness issue. The grips had a slightly larger-than-stock diameter with a swollen palm area to boot.

[RWhitehouse]

I just got some generic Bikemaster "half moon" spacers you put between the stock riser and the bar. Not as pretty as the actual taller risers, but they're like $25 instead of $150 and accomplish the same thing.

I'm only 5-7 and the stock rise I was leaned forward a bit and not touching the backrest at all. About 1.5" closer (what the spacer kit is in total) was perfect. The stock cables and wires are fine, as is the Galfer brake line. (the throttle gets a little tight at full right lock, but it's not a big deal).

The kit comes with I believe 3 pieces of different lengths so adjust the distance, or you can stack them together.

[Dereckt94]

No shoulder pain just the numbing of the hand and nothing ever happens to the clutch hand. I will try the grips and the risers I like the idea of the stack ones to adjust and see what makes it better. And raising the bars make the hand go numb really quick. Thank you guys for the opinions I really appreciate it

[Jess from VA]

I’m 5.9” With a 33” sleeve length I sit pretty normal I try not to slouch so to say and I have lowered the handlebars by loosening the plate and twisting them down. But I still end up having to lock the cruise control every couple of 25 to 30 miles because I can’t feel my right hand.

I'm also 5'9" with 33" sleeves.  These are spendy but perfect.  I don't know why there is no picture.
https://www.aeromachmfg.com/RISER_SET_4_VTX_Retro_1300_p/am-4190c.htm

There may be other risers (or even a riser spacer) that gives about the same movement of the bars for less money, but I've had these Aeromachs for years and they are great for me (unlike the OE risers).

The fancy design is kind of wasted on my interstate, buried and largely unseen.  But they work.  The OE single long top clamp does not work with them, they come with individual clamps on each side.


A lot of guys have reported throttle side hand numbness.  I've had it too; mostly on longer/faster/freeway rides (tingling turning to pain).  I think it has nothing to do with riser or bar position.  I think it is because of a loose (by design) throttle sleeve in combination with Kuryakin ISO grips.  The bike is smooth compared to Vtwins, but there is ultrasonic-like vibration, and the ISO grip rubbers and throttle sleeve transmit it.  No one has ever reported left side grip numbness, so I think it is assisted by the floating throttle sleeve.  I use RTV silicone to glue my ISO grips on, and it works loose, only on the throttle side, every year or two.  I have taken to using an excess amount of RTV, squirting it down into the ISO grip when re-gluing them.  This requires more cleanup, but I believe it has reduced my throttle side vibration.

Besides that, what has worked for me is my ISO grip throttle boss (and a throttle lock, no cruise control), and wearing heavier, padded or insulated gloves.  And bike gloves with gel palms can be found for sale.

You didn't say what grips you have.

[Dereckt94]

Awesome info and I like the designs of the areomatch I’m probably goin to buy those and see how they are especially since you have tried them and liked them. My grips say “Calindo by design” they are fat and feel okay I guess.

[Jess from VA]

Maybe the ISOs have nothing to do with it.  It's all I've run for many years.

I still think heavier gloves is the way to go.

My Harley shook so hard, the handlebar risers were mounted with rubber/poly bushings at the triple trees.  Still, I never got vibration numbness throttle hand on that bike.  And it went over 100K.