Tightening fork pinch bolts

[RonW]

When you bounce the forks to set the axle, which fork pinch bolts are left loose? Manual states the right fork bolts are left loose (13-15), but there was a debate about the right side vs. the left side pinch bolts.

[indybobm]

The left pinch bolts should be loose when you bounce the forks.
I have said that with the axle bolt tightened to spec, the right fork cannot move even with the right pinch bolts loose.

[Chrisj CMA]

It only makes sense that the clutch side pinch bolts would be loose. That's the fork that can move.  Also they should be re-tightened without letting up on the brake .

[sandy]

Ron; Go with the manual. The left vs right is viewed from the riders seat.

[indybobm]

Even when viewed from the seat, it is the left pinch bolts which should be loose when you bounce the forks.
As viewed from the seat, the right pinch bolts (brake side) are captive in the lock-up assembly when you tighten the axle bolt.
The left, or clutch side, fork is the only one that can move.

At least the Honda Service Manual instructs you to check for rotor clearance on the left side (as viewed from the seat).

[Chrisj CMA]

Ron; Go with the manual. The left vs right is viewed from the riders seat.

It won't hurt to bounce the forks with the right (brake) side pinch bolts loose, it just won't do any good either. It won't accomplish anything as far as axle/fork alignment.

[RonW]

thanks everybody for which fork in the road to take, don't want to get overhumorous with mechanical procedures.

[RonW]

Rio Wil in an earlier thread mentioned a factory *reference mark* on the left shoulder of the front axle. The reference mark supposedly lines up with the inner surface of the Left fork (red line, bottom pic). Doing this aligns the front axle with the forks. However, if you left the pinch bolts on the Left fork loose and bounced the bike, what's the odds of the reference mark also lining up where it should be?? Or, if you align the reference mark with the inner side of the Left fork, why is it necessary to then bounce the bike??

[Chrisj CMA]

When you bounce the front end with the clutch side pinch bolts loose the brake caliper and pads clamp down and if the fork can move it will center itself on the axle.  If the brake is held until the pinch bolts are re tightened then it's all good. 

[WintrSol]

OTOH, if you do it the way the manual states, bouncing it takes out any residual misalignment of the starboard fork due to tolerances around the axle bolt. The port side has all that smooth surface of the axle to prevent any such alignment issues. Of course, it also has a clearance measurement for the starboard caliper, which can only deviate if the spacer is damages.

[indybobm]

OTOH, if you do it the way the manual states, bouncing it takes out any residual misalignment of the starboard fork due to tolerances around the axle bolt. The port side has all that smooth surface of the axle to prevent any such alignment issues. Of course, it also has a clearance measurement for the starboard caliper, which can only deviate if the spacer is damages.

Except the manual does not tell you to loosen the left side pinch bolts.
With the right side pinch bolts tight, no amount or bouncing will take any slop out of anything. Once the axle bolt is torqued, it cannot move.

[RonW]

Manual states to keep the Right Fork's pinch bolts loose when bouncing the bike, so the manual states or was it the Mayan calender. Don't recollect. Anyways, it's starting to make me wonder if the purpose of bouncing the forks is to align the Left Fork horizontally on the axle shaft. I believe the forks' vertical position is set by the lock nuts underneath the fork caps. Those lock nuts being adjustable.

Chrisj, never thought of holding the brake lever ..... only releasing the brake lever until ..... after the Left pinch bolts are tightened, good point. I assume you read my note about working on the Island of the Valleys, and here.

Wintrsol, okay.

[indybobm]

Manual states to keep the Right Fork's pinch bolts loose when bouncing the bike, so the manual states or was it the Mayan calender. Don't recollect. Anyways, it's starting to make me wonder if the purpose of bouncing the forks is to align the Left Fork horizontally on the axle shaft.

Bouncing is not going to do anything to the left fork unless the left fork pinch bolts are loose.
That is the key.

[RonW]

I know that, but what does the act of bouncing the bike actually align? Left bolts loose.

[WintrSol]

Manual states to keep the Right Fork's pinch bolts loose when bouncing the bike, so the manual states or was it the Mayan calender. Don't recollect. Anyways, it's starting to make me wonder if the purpose of bouncing the forks is to align the Left Fork horizontally on the axle shaft.

Bouncing is not going to do anything to the left fork unless the left fork pinch bolts are loose.
That is the key.

Yes, but why would it need to, as there is no real play between the fork and axle? I don't see anything that can change on the left side when bouncing it, except maybe shifting it away from the reference line. The right fork, however, does have some play in it, because of how the bolt holds it to the axle. Bouncing it could shift the bottom of the fork somewhat, correcting any small misalignment. The brake would grab the rotor, and the bounce help pull the right fork into better alignment with the caliper.

[indybobm]

I know that, but what does the act of bouncing the bike actually align? Left bolts loose.

Look back at ChrisJ's last comment. That says it all.

"When you bounce the front end with the clutch side pinch bolts loose the brake caliper and pads clamp down and if the fork can move it will center itself on the axle.  If the brake is held until the pinch bolts are re tightened then it's all good."

He is talking about the left fork (clutch side).

[WintrSol]

But, the left fork has an alignment line on the axle; letting it shift away from that could create problems, and negates the purpose of that line.

[RonW]

I tried this (ChrisJ method). This way, the front brakes only get released after having tighten down the left pinch bolts, after bouncing. Might make a difference. We'll see. As far as the *reference mark,* there was so much grease around that section (squeeze out) that I didn't know where the reference mark ended up. I always grease the axle liberally. Wasn't about to wipe off the extra grease just to verify the factory line. Done is done. To begin with, I wasn't able to find those 2 right angle bolts that's used with the lift adapter and I didn't realize it until I had all the tools etc staged in my basement parking stall. Anyways, I ran a length of solid copper wire through the aluminum tunnel to hold the adapter against the bottom of the engine, where those right angle bolts usually go. Extra heavy duty zip ties would also work I guess.

[Chrisj CMA]

But, the left fork has an alignment line on the axle; letting it shift away from that could create problems, and negates the purpose of that line.

We're not talking about a massive shift.  That line is a very close starting point.

[indybobm]

But, the left fork has an alignment line on the axle; letting it shift away from that could create problems, and negates the purpose of that line.

Not all Valkyrie front axles have that line. This from personal observation. Honda uses different manufacturers.

[indybobm]

Not to beat a dead horse, ok, I am beating a dead horse; but I noticed something interesting about front axles for sale on the internet.

I looked at over a dozen front axle/spacer units from various salvage vendors and notice something strange.

There seems to be two type of front axle spacers that go between the fork and the speedometer gear.

One is more or less straight and the other has a very visible step built into it.

In every instance, when the axle had a straight spacer, there is a reference line on the end of the axle for fork alignment.

When the axle had a stepped spacer, there was no reference line, just a wear mark.

This might be a coincidence and not significant, but it is strange.
I wonder if this is predominantly the case on bikes that have not had front axle parts replaced.

[Paladin528]

The alignment line is there for assembly in the factory hence no mention in the manual. aligning everything like that in the factory speeds the process and moves the line faster.  they cannot do the bounce process on the assembly line.

Leaving the pinch bols loose and bouncing the bike centers the "old parts" to where they should be.