Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
June 16, 2025, 07:40:33 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Print
Author Topic: adding a back off module and lback off led license plate frame  (Read 2878 times)
JD
Member
*****
Posts: 7



« on: January 17, 2019, 01:43:29 PM »

Just added  a back off brake light module and I used one  mode wire to energize the brake light and the other mode wire to energize the back off led brake, running light, license plate frame.  it seems to work fine BUT,,,,
I just heard about Can Bus, and I am worried that by splicing into the brake wire that I may have problems when I start the bike.  Planning a big trip this spring after the thaw and don't want any problems.  Cant run her in the garage, to see if a warning pops up.  I'm also installing the big bike tridium fog light, DRL, turn signal kit, which means more splicing.

Is the 2014 GL1800c using Can Bus.  Is anyone familiar with this system that can give me a heads up.
Logged
Robert
Member
*****
Posts: 16956


S Florida


« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2019, 02:51:06 PM »

As long as you wired it to the stop light wire you should be fine, I and others have wired leds to the stop light wire and not had any problems.  This is a straight 12v off the brake light switches. The issues are not the same as the wing since we dont have much or any can bus circuit. The real problem with our bikes is the use of leds and the modules to power them. But each module acts pretty much independent of the other.

Can bus is more like a communication line between modules so each can communicate with the other. If you want to start your car the ignition switch communes with the power module and then talks to the engine control module, dash module, ac, light, wiper and other assorted modules to turn on.

As an example,

If you switch on your lights the light switch is manually turned on, that sends a signal or code to the front sam (signal acquisition module) that goes to the headlight module then if you have hid goes to the hid module and your headlights turn on. But in doing this the front sam can send a signal to the engine ECU to raise the idle up and in turn raise the alternator output and also may send a signal from the light switch that may turn on the instrument cluster or it may have a light module that turns on the various other lights around the car. All this communication is the can bus responsibility to act like a phone service between all the modules.

The wiring for a can bus line is usually whats called "twisted pairs" wires of small gauge twisted tightly together to stop electro magnetic interference in the line. Old phone lines were twisted pairs, cat cables like cat 5 and cat 6 are twisted pairs.

All of this requires programing, communication, and each module has to be introduced to the other so each knows its ok to speak to that module and a whole host of other issues. Not to mention there is NO standard in how signals are routed so each manufacture, even each car has different routes and different modules to do the same end result.

In the can bus signal being digital it can have a far greater range in what it can command an electronic module to do. Simple signals like on off of a 12v circuit are easy, like our stop lights, but telling the dash lights to come on at 1/4 brightness can be communicated over a can bus line, module to module or to dim or brighten lights in response to ambient lighting.

Voltage on a can bus line is not enough to power anything and its not constant. If you short a can bus line you take a chance of blowing out the module that supplies the power to the can bus line or something else in the line.

If one module ties up the can bus line it can cause all sorts of seemingly unrelated problems. The only effective way to diagnose a problem like this is to disconnect modules till the modules start come back and communicate with each other and the function that they control works again or check the voltage of the can bus line. Some will say check the signal, which is possible but requires knowing the signal.

I doubt if the 2014 wing uses can bus, the new wing I believe does. If this seems a bit long its not. Can bus lines are a pain to deal with when they go out and they are simply complex. So if that statement confuses then you are at a good place to start to understand can bus.  Grin Grin
« Last Edit: January 17, 2019, 03:38:42 PM by Robert » Logged

“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
Bill Havins
Member
*****
Posts: 413


A roadster!

Abilene, Texas


« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2019, 07:01:55 AM »


There is a CAN Bus on your Valkyrie.  It attaches to Pins 1 and 2 on the Combination Gauge on the handlebars (i.e., the "Speedometer").  The other end of this CAN Bus appears on the "Audio Connector" hidden in the left-side radiator cowling.  So, the CAN Bus on our scooters is not "active"; heck, it doesn't even have a CAN Bus Controller - it is just a pair of wires that were put on the bike for an audio "accessory" that never made it to market.

I'm sure if someone wanted to dig deep enough into a Goldwing schematic they would find that a similar "network" is attached to the big audio control system on the left side of the Goldwing.  There the CAN Bus is actually energized and actually does something.

If your bike has ABS the CAN Bus is not involved.  Everything is "direct wire" on the Valkyrie ABS system.

Any LED light (system?) attached to the Valkyrie requires a combination of diodes and current-limiting resistors to ensure, a.) that current does not feed back through the accessory system into other lights on that circuit (e.g., the OEM brake light), and, b.) that the accessory lights (LEDs) do not draw too much current and cause the LED to burn out.  Better manufacturers now build diodes and current-limiting resistors into their systems; check the data sheets for the systems you purchased just to be sure diodes/current-limiting resistors are already installed.

Where you attach the power wires for your systems can be an issue.  The wire gauges for the Valkyrie lights are very small.  These wire runs are not designed to carry very much current at all.  Be careful where you access power for your systems if they draw much current.

Good luck!

Bill
Logged

"So many windmills, so little time." - Don Quixote
"Dawg I hate windmills!" - Sancho Panza
Robert
Member
*****
Posts: 16956


S Florida


« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2019, 04:51:48 PM »

Bill just curious you said the brake light on our valks needs a diode to prevent feedback, why would you say that since its not in the led controller circuit but a straight 12v off the brake light switches.  Smiley
Logged

“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
Bill Havins
Member
*****
Posts: 413


A roadster!

Abilene, Texas


« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2019, 05:38:06 PM »

Robert,

In the "early years" of automotive LED bulbs some riders would replace incandescent bulbs with LEDs, expecting them to perform "just the same."  But they would sometimes find that their new bulbs stayed on at a low level all the time, or they might find that other bulbs would also illuminate at a low level, or other such anomalies.  The "cure" was to install a "blocking diode" in the circuit prior to the newly-installed LED.  Now manufacturers are almost always including the diodes as part of their assembled units.

So, the working rule is, when you wire in any extra LED lights, if "unexpected" lights come on, there is a need to install one or more diodes in the circuit prior to the new LED(s) to "block" the "leaking" voltage.


Well, the above is total "cerebral flatulence."  I was thinking of something very different.  The resistors issue IS important.  The diodes thing only in "unusual" situations (think "Moto Guzzi California 1400").  There, that's better.

Bill


« Last Edit: January 18, 2019, 08:23:20 PM by Bill Havins » Logged

"So many windmills, so little time." - Don Quixote
"Dawg I hate windmills!" - Sancho Panza
Robert
Member
*****
Posts: 16956


S Florida


« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2019, 04:24:26 AM »

Thank you Bill, that was pretty funny, only because I find myself doing the same thing.  Grin
Logged

“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
Adirondack Bill
Member
*****
Posts: 219

Upstate New York Near Lake George


« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2019, 08:03:08 AM »

Robert, your technical expertise never ceases  to amaze me. If I may ask, what do you do or did do for a living?
Logged
JD
Member
*****
Posts: 7



« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2019, 10:37:02 AM »

Thanks to all, for the info.  At this point, I'm thinking about putting it back to stock.  I am looking forward to several IBA rides this spring and would really like the additional lighting but, there isn't going to be time between now and then to insure everything will work as required.  I learned along time ago, never add an accessory just before leaving on a timed trip, the hard way, twice.

I questioned the light gauge wiring, looks like 22 maybe 20, its very light.   The voltage comes from the rear brake wire and is cut at the harness below the seat.  It then powers the Brake light mod.  Out of the modulator there are 2) output wires, I connected one to the original brake light and the other to power the led, brake/running light license plate frame.  Obviously that adds a extra load, and since I have know way to know how many. amps are being drawn, I'll sacrifice rear end safety for reliability until this can be sorted out at a later date.

The older older Valks are easier
Logged
Robert
Member
*****
Posts: 16956


S Florida


« Reply #8 on: January 29, 2019, 03:02:43 AM »

Just for a little FYI you can connect a light to the stop light wire that goes to the tail light without a problem at all. Thats how I have mine and then the running light to the accessory wire off the fuse box. This does not interfere with the led controller at all and you still get your extra lighting.
Logged

“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Print
Jump to: