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Author Topic: smoking left side after 38 jets/ desmog  (Read 1941 times)
TrapperJ
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Posts: 16


« on: November 20, 2009, 12:05:48 PM »

After doing a desmog and 38 slow jet change my left pipe is emitting smke and I have a gas smell. The pilot screws were set to 1 and 3/4 turns out. This morning here in Florida, when I took the bike out for a test run, the # 2 intake runner had moisture forming on it. It was also cooler than the other 5 runners.The bike also now has left side oil leak coating the side stand.  Could it be excess gas flowing into # 2 cylinder such as with a stuck float. Can you check for this w/o taking it all apart again? Should I change back to the 35 jets. At this point I'm really frusted. John
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Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2009, 04:35:51 PM »

Maybe depends on your nimble fingers.
Remove the carb to head intake manifold.
With a screwdriver tip, the type you insert into a handle and a hand wrench  or one of the small ratchet type tip drivers, you can remove the bowl and inspect the float. a flat screw driver tip and the wrench can be used to remove the pilot and main jets.

It may help to remove the adjacent intake for more room.

Flush the float valve in case it has trash in it.

Before starting the dis-assembly, tap the bowl with a solid wood handle to make sure that the float is not just hung.

Good luck Pete
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2009, 02:55:57 PM »

After doing a desmog and 38 slow jet change my left pipe is emitting smke and I have a gas smell. The pilot screws were set to 1 and 3/4 turns out. This morning here in Florida, when I took the bike out for a test run, the # 2 intake runner had moisture forming on it. It was also cooler than the other 5 runners.The bike also now has left side oil leak coating the side stand.  Could it be excess gas flowing into # 2 cylinder such as with a stuck float. Can you check for this w/o taking it all apart again? Should I change back to the 35 jets. At this point I'm really frusted. John

So it seems you'd really like to get back to from where you started. For what reasons did you change the jets in the first place. You made two modifications at the same time and now the difficulty of determining what is causing the problem has multiplied quite a bit. At to boot, there doesn't seem too be much help posting replies to your problem.

The moisture on the intake indicates a cold condition. If the float was sticking I'd say hydrolock is in the future. Since no hydrolock has occured you can surmise the cooling is caused by an over rich fuel/air mixture going through the cylinder. Check the plug to see! Maybe you upset something in that carburetor to cause the problem.

The oil on the kickstand means the the kickstand is not going to bind up anytime soon. If you clean the whole area of all the dirt and crud you probably could detect where the oil is coming from if you keep looking for the first signs of oil. I'd think the shifter oil seal is the most likely reason for that oil.

The desmog in my estimation is a change that can do no harm and while not necessary is an ok thing to do. You probably need to check to see the vacuum barbs on each runner are plugged adequately.

Maybe just going back over the whole job you did might reveal something. I'd suggest looking at the enrichment valves on each carburetor to insure the one on number 2 cylinder is not being held in an open position during normal running.

As to returning back to stock jets, I would have to wonder why you changed them to begin with.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
John U.
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Posts: 1085


Southern Delaware


« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2009, 06:08:17 PM »

Your change to 38 slow jets has nothing to do with any of these problems, Ricky-D's scoldings not withstanding.
It is indeed likely that the oil is coming from the shift rod seal.
If you had the carbs and fuel delivery system dry for an extended period while desmogging and jet replacement you may have some temporary fuel leaks. I can say at least that my fuel leaks were temporary after I did the same job.
As to the problem of #2 being colder, check the bowl drain to determine if you have fuel flow to that carb. As mentioned you may be able to tap the carb and dislodge the float if it's stuck.
Have you checked the condition of the gas tank. Rust can very quickly replug a slow jet.
If the bike fires on all cylinders with the choke on, then clogging of a slow jet is likely the problem. Get a flashlight and inspection mirror.
If so, cleaning the tank and a fuel filter could be your answer.
Meantime, be careful of hydrolock. Bump the starter, if you hear a clunk, pull the plugs and crank the engine. Do this outside and with the plug wires away from the plug holes.
Let us know how it goes.

P.S. Most of us know why you changed to 38 slow jets.
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John Schmidt
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Posts: 15224


a/k/a Stuffy. '99 I/S Valk Roadsmith Trike

De Pere, WI (Green Bay)


« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2009, 10:25:38 AM »

Got this from a friend and it worked quite well. Hook up a Vac pump used to bleed brake lines, plug it into the bowl drain tube under the bike and pump it up to a few lbs. of suction. Then open the drain screw on the carb you suspect. It will create some extra turmoil within the bowl and suck out stuff that otherwise won't just drain out. I'd tap on the bowl at the same time to dislodge anything that might be stuck in there. Nothing guaranteed on this procedure, but worth a try before going deeper. It will pull out debris not normally removed by gravity.

If you want to do it on all the carbs, you have to close each one and pump it up again before opening the next drain screw.
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Ricky-D
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Posts: 5031


South Carolina midlands


« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2009, 05:57:59 PM »

Got this from a friend and it worked quite well. Hook up a Vac pump used to bleed brake lines, plug it into the bowl drain tube under the bike and pump it up to a few lbs. of suction. Then open the drain screw on the carb you suspect. It will create some extra turmoil within the bowl and suck out stuff that otherwise won't just drain out. I'd tap on the bowl at the same time to dislodge anything that might be stuck in there. Nothing guaranteed on this procedure, but worth a try before going deeper. It will pull out debris not normally removed by gravity.

If you want to do it on all the carbs, you have to close each one and pump it up again before opening the next drain screw.

That is a good suggestion John.

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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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