LED headlight INOP

[Gondul]

I bought a set of Eaglelites back in October and everything worked great.

Noticed yesterday while out riding that the low beam did not come on.
When I turn on the High Beam, those lenses come on, but the Low Beam lenses stay off

Not much of an electrical person but youtube is my friend.
Low beam on, connector shows 11.6v
High beam on, connector shows 11.6v for High Beam and 0 volts for low beam?

I've checked/cleaned both the starter switch and the HI/LOW switch... is there anywhere else I can check to rule out it is the bike?

And I've sent an email to Eaglelites as well

[RonW]

unclear, do you have low beam at all? That aside, it's an either/or thing. The high beam and low beam have their separate circuits. Either/Or. Don't know if it's true with a sealed beam led, but for incandescent headlights, if both filament were on at the same time, the heat would fry the sockets, etc. 

[Gondul]

I have no low beam at all.
However, I am getting power at the connector.
Which would mean the LED headlamp is bad, no?  Unless I'm missing something.


No power to the low beams with the high beams on makes sense for the old filament bulbs...thanks.

[WintrSol]

From the photos on their website, when the high beam is selected, both the high and low beam LEDs should be on. From your description, you have an internal failure of the lamp, as it will only get power on the high beam wire or the low beam wire, so the bulb has to connect the two internally when high is selected. Time to check your warranty.

[RonW]

just visited the Eagle Lights website. $ 219.99!!

[edit] How good was their adapter? Possibly why their Led is so expensive.

[Gondul]

You can pick up cheap LEDs all day... they won't be bright and there won't be a warranty.
The adapter is made by a fellow Valk Rider, and while there is a cheaper one to buy, it is flimsy.

The LED itself is plug/play... nothing electrical to do in the housing, the adapter makes it stupid easy to install...remove the old housing, install adapter on the LED and done.

[RonW]

the adapter in the Valk pic on the Eagle Lights website is Josh's? He's doing very well.

[Gondul]

the adapter in the Valk pic on the Eagle Lights website is Josh's? He's doing very well.

I don't know if he is 'doing well' or not, I guess having Eaglelites as a reseller is a god thing, but yeah it is  his adapter.

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

The easiest way to actually load test the headlight high and low beam circuits is by simply plugging your original bulb back (or known good bulb) in and see if it works. Checking voltage, while helpful, doesn't tell the whole story. You can take a battery cable and cut every strand in it but one, and still read voltage on the other end. It would never carry enough amperage to crank a starter, though. A headlight bulb is an actual load that will test the integrity of the circuit.

[Gondul]

The easiest way to actually load test the headlight high and low beam circuits is by simply plugging your original bulb back (or known good bulb) in and see if it works. Checking voltage, while helpful, doesn't tell the whole story. You can take a battery cable and cut every strand in it but one, and still read voltage on the other end. It would never carry enough amperage to crank a starter, though. A headlight bulb is an actual load that will test the integrity of the circuit.

Thanks... now to find a bulb.

[Bighead]

The easiest way to actually load test the headlight high and low beam circuits is by simply plugging your original bulb back (or known good bulb) in and see if it works. Checking voltage, while helpful, doesn't tell the whole story. You can take a battery cable and cut every strand in it but one, and still read voltage on the other end. It would never carry enough amperage to crank a starter, though. A headlight bulb is an actual load that will test the integrity of the circuit.

Thanks... now to find a bulb.

You can get one at any auto parts store. Get a cheap one.

[Gondul]

You can get one at any auto parts store. Get a cheap one.

Exactly what I was going to do!

[DarkSideR]

Gents,

Josh here, and jumping into the conversation.

I am doing well thank you, and yes have teamed up with Eagle Lights. I am a distributor of his headlights, and he is a distributor of my brackets.

For future note you can still buy directly from me. You are more than welcome to use any headlight of your choice, and purchase the bracket from myself.

If you are interested in buying an Eagle Lights headlight I sell the kit (bracket mounted to headlight) and offer a $10.00 discount off the website prices.

Lastly I will be a Vendor at this years InZane selling brackets, headlights, and my new product Tourer Windshield Bags. I am looking forward to seeing my fellow VRCC brethren again.

As to this specific issue. It would also be my suggestion to simply plug a stock halogen bulb back in and test. May be able to simply use one out of your car whereas its just an H4 bulb.

If it is indeed a defective headlight I'm sure Eagle Lights will take care of you.

[Bambam650]

Or as an alternative to a new LED headlight you could replace your standard bulb with one of these.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-led-bulbs/motorcycle-h4-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink-2000-lumens/3930/8566/

[Gondul]

Thanks, but that housing is long gone.

[Gondul]

H4 bulb works just fine in the plug... email back to Eaglelites requesting a warranty replacement.

[Gondul]

They are shipping a new headlight today.

No complaints with the service.

[Bighead]

 

[WintrSol]

Gents,

Josh here, and jumping into the conversation.

I am doing well thank you, and yes have teamed up with Eagle Lights. I am a distributor of his headlights, and he is a distributor of my brackets.

I sent them a note, but maybe you can answer directly. The lamp comes with washers for the top and bottom screws, which, I assume, are spacers for the brass bits that fit into the plastic lamps. But, they are so thin that they just rattle around, with an extra mm or so gap between the head of the brass bit and the bracket. Is that what they were meant to do?

[DarkSideR]

Gents,

Josh here, and jumping into the conversation.

I am doing well thank you, and yes have teamed up with Eagle Lights. I am a distributor of his headlights, and he is a distributor of my brackets.

I sent them a note, but maybe you can answer directly. The lamp comes with washers for the top and bottom screws, which, I assume, are spacers for the brass bits that fit into the plastic lamps. But, they are so thin that they just rattle around, with an extra mm or so gap between the head of the brass bit and the bracket. Is that what they were meant to do?

The brass barrel probably missed the hole in the mount causing it to sit proud. Check to make sure that everything lines up, and the washers will then sit tight.

[WintrSol]

Gents,

Josh here, and jumping into the conversation.

I am doing well thank you, and yes have teamed up with Eagle Lights. I am a distributor of his headlights, and he is a distributor of my brackets.

I sent them a note, but maybe you can answer directly. The lamp comes with washers for the top and bottom screws, which, I assume, are spacers for the brass bits that fit into the plastic lamps. But, they are so thin that they just rattle around, with an extra mm or so gap between the head of the brass bit and the bracket. Is that what they were meant to do?

The brass barrel probably missed the hole in the mount causing it to sit proud. Check to make sure that everything lines up, and the washers will then sit tight.

I checked and double-checked; the brass barrel doesn't go through the hole in the mount, but the end if it is tapered a bit, allowing it to center itself in the hole. The washers are very thin, and only take up a bit more than 1/2 the exposed part of the barrel, so wouldn't have been snug if the barrel had gone all the way through. Assuming the washers are there to prevent the barrel rocking against the mount, I used a thin slice of reinforced automotive hose with one washer, and it is snug, now.