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MarkT Exhaust
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Author Topic: Crush Gaskets and Brake Pads  (Read 873 times)
pais
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One more turn should do it!

Kent, Ohio


« on: March 18, 2019, 02:15:27 AM »

    Good morning all,
   I'm about to put new pads on. The general consensus is to use OEM. I'm wondering if there is a safe way to change pads (front) on a lift table? I have a HF, roll into wheel chock on the front of my table. I'm thinking I'll have to lift front end too high to clear the chock. Mind you, I am in the thinking stage at this point. Any in put will be appreciated.
   I also want to do new exhaust gaskets. Does the same ring true? I seem to remember a little more debate/opinion on this one. Stock or is there an after market out there that guys are seeing better results? Any tips, tricks will be appreciated here also.

    Pais
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!

Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2019, 04:59:29 AM »

All you need to change the front pads is to remove the calipers from the forks. On the lift not on the lift front end raised or not makes no difference.

The complaint I heard about the fiber gaskets opposed to OEM was that they are thicker and hard to get the nuts on. Most prefer the stock ones even though it takes several tightenings to get them completely squished down
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Ken aka Oil Burner
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Mendon, MA


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« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2019, 05:18:35 AM »

All you need to change the front pads is to remove the calipers from the forks. On the lift not on the lift front end raised or not makes no difference.

The complaint I heard about the fiber gaskets opposed to OEM was that they are thicker and hard to get the nuts on. Most prefer the stock ones even though it takes several tightenings to get them completely squished down

Agreed. No need to remove the front wheel to change the pads. If you were changing the rotors or wheel bearings, yes, but pads, no.

Again, OEM crush seals fit well and work well. On automotive applications, I've had fantastic luck with Remflex gaskets, but I don't see the benefit here. The contact point in the cylinder heads is thin, and the o-ring style crush washers fit perfectly.

There are certain places where aftermarket parts may work better than OEM, but these two areas are not them, in my opinion.
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Bighead
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Madison Alabama


« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2019, 11:51:53 AM »

 Be sure when you install new crush gaskets that you get the old ones out. They can be stuck to the engine side and hard to see. Take a dental pick and make sure it is actually out.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
pais
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Posts: 723


One more turn should do it!

Kent, Ohio


« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2019, 02:00:32 AM »

    Thanx guys for the feedback!  cooldude
     The reason for front wheel removal was either to take it and have powder coated or attempt to clean. Not sure which yet. Leaning towards powder coating.
     Ordered parts this morning. Hope to get bike on the table and do some disassembly this week. Also wanting to clean up the stock pipes. They've had a burnt butter color to them since the day I got the bike. Running to rich? Since been rebuilt and synced. Hoping they clean up.
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Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!

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