Started Maintenance and Performance Upgrades. UpDate No. 2

[98valk]

New steering stem bearings and then new ported and polished heads which were flow benched. Will install R1 camshafts after comparing them to the R2 cams that my '98 has.

Will look into installing inverted fork air pressure relief valves.  Inverted forks of other motorcycles always have relief valves due to the design of the forks building up air pressure which starts pushing fork oil pass the seals. so then the owner thinks their seals are bad which I've read on other sites where owners don't use the relief valves. Will see if this is true, since my forks leak sometimes.  So then I would do the expansion and contraction of the forks as talked about on other sites and then they will not leak for thousands of miles.

Will be comparing Std and I/S triple trees. According to service manual I/S has slightly different rake numbers indicating the frame is different, since all models have the same trail numbers.  If the I/S trees are different then putting them on the Std will reduce the trail providing better handling.

Amazing the narrow visual aspect of the bike with the crash bars removed.

[John Schmidt]

Keep in mind, the upper I/S tree will have to be drilled/tapped to mount the instruments if it's going on either a Std. or Tourer.

[98valk]

Keep in mind, the upper I/S tree will have to be drilled/tapped to mount the instruments if it's going on either a Std. or Tourer.

yep. hopefully only the bottom one has the different rake, since that is done also, where both trees are different. if I'm correct then this can be a low cost way to improve the handling.

[98valk]

after taking some measurements I can confirm that the I/S fork clamps do have more offset than the std/tourer fork clamps. installing the I/S fork clamps on a std/tourer will reduce the trail number.

After measuring a few times, I was hoping for more offset, however, the I/S clamps only have 1/32" more offset than the std/tourer clamps.
That and with a 130/90-17 front tire and raising the forks up to a max of 1/2 inch will lower the Trail number to approx 5.62 from stock of 5.98. according to the calculator used in link.

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/advchoppercalc.html

will use this drilling, tapping and deburring, three-in-one bit set https://www.harborfreight.com/metric-drill-tap-deburr-bit-set-95529.html
this set only works for deeper or thru holes. I had to drill and tap.
to attach the speedo and tach.

[98valk]

 replacing steering stem bearings at this time. I just made a tool today for the adjusting nut, not the top chrome nut.  An electric water heater element wrench, $7.27 Home Depot.  If any remember I also used one of these wrenches to make the Fork Tool.

The round end outside diameter is the same. once material is removed and you have your four tabs, the tabs need to be made thinner on the inside by removing some material to fit onto the nut.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-in-Element-Wrench-15016/205680998

[98valk]

The installation of the I/S triple clamps onto my std/tourer is completed. The electric water heater element wrench worked perfectly for the stem bearing adjustment nut. Used the service manual initial 30 ftlbs and then 12ftlbs.
Polished them up also to a nice mirror finish.


Started taking the heads off. Have removed one camshaft so far. It is a R2 camshaft and I compared it to two sets of R1 camshafts I have. There is a difference in the lobes between them and there are different markings on the camshafts.
more to follow.

[mello dude]

Some pics would be nice... 

[Roadog]

  Who did the portwork on your heads and what were the flow numbers ?   Pics would be good too , and thanks .

Roadog
Ride Safe

[f6john]

Fantastic! A hotrodding post. Following this one for sure.

[98valk]

 Who did the portwork on your heads and what were the flow numbers ?   Pics would be good too , and thanks .

Roadog
Ride Safe

yes need to get some pics posted. but not too happy right now, after pulling one head and finding one cylinder with one scratch down the length of the cylinder bore. can only see two bores right now until I remove the other camshaft so I can rotate the engine.

https://dfperformancellc.com/   did the head work
stock cams have .303 valve lift

 flow test was at .320 valve lift
intake org  81.2,  final 94.6 @28"

exhaust org  78,  final 93.6  @28"

rpm stock airflow 6278  after 7313

the exhaust ports (center ports do not have this) actually have a scoop into the exhaust stream to catch exhaust for the PAIR system. This is why such low stock numbers and such a big gain on the exhaust once the scoop is taken out. HP/TQ and mpg have a lot to do with the exhaust port.

intake manifold was used for all testing. He said the head/engine never sees the manifold. He also shimmed the springs to bring pressure up about 10lbs from new set of oem springs.
I had given him a test head to play with. So with the flow bench he knew right away which way to go for what the head wanted since he never worked on one before. He said he went one way first and the velocity dropped off. and then went the other way and the velocity stayed up.

[Roadog]

   Thanks 98 Valk , thanks for posting your head info .  It shows  some pretty good numbers . You will be pleased .

Roadog
Ride Safe

[98valk]

   Thanks 98 Valk , thanks for posting your head info .  It shows  some pretty good numbers . You will be pleased .

Roadog
Ride Safe

he said there is plenty of room to port for the web cams which have 330 lift.  He said the heads could easily support close to 500 lift, there is that much room to port for that. but there is not enough deck height to support more than the web cams.

[98valk]

R1 vs R2 camshafts.  There have been disagreements over this before.  Pictures show a definite difference btwn the lobe positions.



R2 on left R1 on right. both key ways up position.

[98valk]

R2 on left R1 on right. both key ways down position.

[98valk]

here is the scratch I found in the one cylinder bore. Had my friend who is a certified diesel mechanic take a look. first thing he said, that is nothing, it happened during install, there is no excessive carbon at the top of the cylinder in that area he said indicating it is of no concern.  Later on I found an Acura and Honda service bulletin stating also that it is not a concern and happens sometimes during piston assembly.
pg 10  https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10153886-0001.pdf

here is my cylinder

[98valk]

here is my top desmog plugs. Used shortened 9/16" bolts. Fill the holes with quicksteel. Then some hi-temp silicone and install the bolts.
did this to the original heads. zero problems even after 50k miles.

[98valk]

bottom desmog plate. just fill the hole and plate surface with hi-temp silicone.

did this to the original heads. zero problems even after 50k miles.

[98valk]

Ride Report

1) I/S trees are great, the additional offset has helped the handling and the low speed stop light unstableness is now almost non-existent.

2) The new ported heads with R1 camshafts caused the carbs to go pig rich, so bad that on a 90+F high humidity day the water and oil temps were running 20F higher than normal btwn 50-60 mph.  Interesting that mpg still increased by 2 mpg over two tank fulls even being so rich.

3) Re-jetted down two jets sizes middle and rear carbs and went down three sizes front two carbs. Now the bike runs fantastic, power everywhere, acceleration amazing.  needs very little throttle, much less than before, on the hwy. Will see how mpg is now.

4) We all know how smooth running these engines are, but it is definitely smoother now than it was before esp during acceleration. Based on the internal EGR design of the R2 emissions cams, they would cause how the engine used to feel.

5) Installed Jersey Shifter. So much smoother shifting as in I'm not really paying attention to the shifting like I did before installing it.

6) Re-ceramic coated the Viking Headers with ITC coatings. Used two base coats and then two top coats. Then painted with Rust-Oleum Specialty 12 oz. High Heat Ultra Semi-Gloss Silver Spray Paint.
Very shinning paint. has a lot of metal flake in it, can see it in air while spraying. they do suggest wearing a mask.

Very happy with these mods.

[98valk]

Re-torqued the steering head bearings at 600 miles per the tech manual requirement. They were loose and I could feel the looseness going through some 30mph S-curves in my area.
They were loose. Tightened them to 14ftlbs, scale pulled 3-4 lbs.
Rides great now esp., with the reduced trail number.

[RonW]

R2 on left R1 on right. both key ways down position.

Is there a Right and a Left camshaft? Irregardless of the R1 or an R2 version. The oem parts page state different product numbers for the Right and a Left. For some reason.

[98valk]

yes, all of the camshafts are left and right.  The key way ends are different lengths due to the offset of the cylinder heads, so the belt pulleys line up. In the parts diagram u can see the difference.

[RonW]

thanks, then they can't be installed wrongly which was my thought.

[98valk]

thanks, then they can't be installed wrongly which was my thought.

all of the cams are identified L or R on the shaft area.

[RonW]

My memory is returning, and there were R & L markings. 

My 2000 tourer had R2 cams even though going by the vin it wasn't a California model. I was replacing the heads. The vendor didn't ship the cams with the used heads, I discovered to my chagrin after delivered, but sold them separately. I was in no mood to buy them ala carte, so, I re-used my Valk's cams and noticed the R2. I would have bought brand new camshafts but the mileage on the used heads were almost the same as my Valk's mileage, so I thought it was better to re-use my Valk cams instead of new cams. But they were R2 despite my non-California version.

[98valk]

I think I have the carbs dialed-in for all of the mods since the last I/S tank fill, when I netted 47 mpg avg.

Looks like I can close the idle mixture screws 1/2 turn to fine tune even more, maybe even better mpg.

During mid-range acceleration when on the needles there is still the EPA vibration leanness in the 2-3k rpm range.  Factory Pros installed with I/S slide springs. Running the richer Std slide springs makes it too rich when the engine is fully hot and in higher ambient temps. It is nothing major since the engine is still pulling really hard.

Sold the two sets of Dyno Jets needles I had which are richer than the FPs, which didn't work well with the stock heads. Looks like I should have kept one set.
I'll have to get another set and try them with these heads and camshafts and see how it runs and then get it back on the dyno.

[Chrisj CMA]

New steering stem bearings and then new ported and polished heads which were flow benched. Will install R1 camshafts after comparing them to the R2 cams that my '98 has.

Will look into installing inverted fork air pressure relief valves.  Inverted forks of other motorcycles always have relief valves due to the design of the forks building up air pressure which starts pushing fork oil pass the seals. so then the owner thinks their seals are bad which I've read on other sites where owners don't use the relief valves. Will see if this is true, since my forks leak sometimes.  So then I would do the expansion and contraction of the forks as talked about on other sites and then they will not leak for thousands of miles.

Will be comparing Std and I/S triple trees. According to service manual I/S has slightly different rake numbers indicating the frame is different, since all models have the same trail numbers.  If the I/S trees are different then putting them on the Std will reduce the trail providing better handling.

Amazing the narrow visual aspect of the bike with the crash bars removed.

This is very interesting about air pressure building up in the forks. Let’s say there is increased air pressure in a Valkyrie fork. Couldn’t one just unscrew the top cap. Wouldn’t that let any pressure out?  I’m just asking.

[98valk]

New steering stem bearings and then new ported and polished heads which were flow benched. Will install R1 camshafts after comparing them to the R2 cams that my '98 has.

Will look into installing inverted fork air pressure relief valves.  Inverted forks of other motorcycles always have relief valves due to the design of the forks building up air pressure which starts pushing fork oil pass the seals. so then the owner thinks their seals are bad which I've read on other sites where owners don't use the relief valves. Will see if this is true, since my forks leak sometimes.  So then I would do the expansion and contraction of the forks as talked about on other sites and then they will not leak for thousands of miles.

Will be comparing Std and I/S triple trees. According to service manual I/S has slightly different rake numbers indicating the frame is different, since all models have the same trail numbers.  If the I/S trees are different then putting them on the Std will reduce the trail providing better handling.

Amazing the narrow visual aspect of the bike with the crash bars removed.

This is very interesting about air pressure building up in the forks. Let’s say there is increased air pressure in a Valkyrie fork. Couldn’t one just unscrew the top cap. Wouldn’t that let any pressure out?  I’m just asking.

Chris caps could be removed. the correct procedure would be front wheel off the ground relieve pressure then install caps.  this is what the off road dirt bike people do.

first time I thought about pressure building up was when the bike was just sitting in the shop and then weeks later the one fork started leaking. temperature had changed and that is why I thought of pressure increase and started researching about inverted forks.

[98valk]

I think I have the carbs dialed-in for all of the mods since the last I/S tank fill, when I netted 47 mpg avg.

Looks like I can close the idle mixture screws 1/2 turn to fine tune even more, maybe even better mpg.

During mid-range acceleration when on the needles there is still the EPA vibration leanness in the 2-3k rpm range.  Factory Pros installed with I/S slide springs. Running the richer Std slide springs makes it too rich when the engine is fully hot and in higher ambient temps. It is nothing major since the engine is still pulling really hard.

Sold the two sets of Dyno Jets needles I had which are richer than the FPs, which didn't work well with the stock heads. Looks like I should have kept one set.
I'll have to get another set and try them with these heads and camshafts and see how it runs and then get it back on the dyno.

netted another 47 mpg avg.   260 miles took 5.5 gals to refill.   std/tourer with I/S tank, shocks and triple clamps for a reduced trail number. dyna ignition curve 7 for max ignition advance and modified oem TW for six degrees.  205/65-16 dark side which lowers RPM by 200.
130/90-17 D404, which is very pressure sensitive at hwy speeds. must keep it at 41-42psi otherwise it will wobble at 85-90 mph.

I think I can do better on the mpg, seems the idle mixture screws can be turned close another 1/2 a turn.

[98valk]

Update.

Idle mixture screws now two turns open. MPG went up. Water and oil temps dropped 5-10 degrees at 60-80 mph.

MPG avg another 47 mpg however this tank had more hwy 75-85 mph.

did 76 miles after a fill up.  filled up again same level and netted 53mpg,  back roads 50-65 mph. temps 80-95F.

[yrunvs]

Both of my shocks started to weep oil and i made a homemade seal doctor and ran it up under both seals and now zero leakage. Im convinced that I released the pressure they were under.

[98valk]

Both of my shocks started to weep oil and i made a homemade seal doctor and ran it up under both seals and now zero leakage. Im convinced that I released the pressure they were under.

I just recently did the same. both started leaking, then did a homemade seal clean and then no leaks.
I also put a piece of felt saturated in power steering stop leak and also added some to the fork fluid.
been leak free for over 700 miles.  69k miles on original seals. was some oil from the felt but after a few hundred miles forks are dry.

[98valk]

few more tanks, still netting 46 to 50 mpg avg depending on hwy speeds, and back road 50mph which gives me the high.

[98valk]

another 46 mpg avg tank.  high speed and country back roads, w/lots of 15-20 mph turns.

My ODO is spot on via checking against the hwy mile markers per two different states.


with 205/65-16 dark side at 3500rpm,  85mph indicated how ever with 130/90-17 rear tire on front it is actually approx 80mph.

[98valk]

part of these mpg numbers are a  result of adding TC-W3 two stroke additive. been seeing a consistent 1-2 mpg increase, plus I know the carb internals are being lubricated.

https://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/

""you guys know I test constantly and oil/tribology is my thing so here goes. I know the gasoline today is crap. Very dry and poor quality. Throw in ethanol and you got crap/corrosive gasoline. I use Fuel Power/Lucas UCL with great success in my cars and other peoples cars. At the first of the year some of us "lubrication physcho's" (mainly from the aircraft industry) discussed the crap quality of gasoline and the absolute advantages of running a fuel additive with lubrication capabilities and I think the testing is now complete and the results are very good. Biggest problem we had was the proper amount but we are now satisfied this works very well and you will have a smoother running engine/more power/better MPG....so here it is.....
What we are trying to accomplish ( The deliverables)
We need to lubricate the fuel pump/seals/injectors.
We need to clean the fuel system and scavenge water that ethanol attracts.
We need a film of protection in our fuel system to stop corrosion.
We need a cleaner for our spark plugs/valves/combustion chambers.
We need to clean the ring packs
We need to leave a film on the cylinder walls to eliminate cold start metal wear.
This was my groups short list of deliverables. Of course we knew if we accomplished this list the car should A) Run Smoother B) Run more efficiently C) Parts will last longer i.e. fuel pumps/injectors etc. D) We should see more RWHP and MPG
We did it. For pennies.
2 Stroke oil. Not just any two stroke oil But we needed the detergents etc. and found the perfect oil/add packs/viscosity in a marine 2 stroke oil you can get""

[Jersey]

Gotta say, so much appreciate your engineering and development discipline!  I'm also in aviation and there is no room for error in the planning!

I couldn't find it (I probably read right past it!), but curious which 2-stroke oil you used and how much per I/S Gas tank?

Great Job!!!!
Jersey

[98valk]

Gotta say, so much appreciate your engineering and development discipline!  I'm also in aviation and there is no room for error in the planning!

I couldn't find it (I probably read right past it!), but curious which 2-stroke oil you used and how much per I/S Gas tank?

Great Job!!!!
Jersey

Thank you.

any TC-W3 two stroke oil.   TC-W3 is actually a std by NMMA that must be met to label it as such.
https://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/tc-w3

this is from the LS1 website
"Use 1oz of the two stroke oil per 5 gallons of gas ( 1oz-5gallons/ 2ozs - 10 gallons etc. and that is the perfect ratio. Too much and it will make your engine run worse....too little and it wont do anything.....use the proper amount.....get a little bottle and keep it in your car.....We have seen a maximum of 5% better MPG down to a minimum of 2% better MPG. All of our test mules reported much smoother idles and cruising. No smoking or ill effects. No residue on plugs our pistons....actually the opposite....we saw "cleaning"....."

[Mooskee]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164918168751?hash=item2665e38caf:g:c7YAAOSwXkJauqP8#:~:text=NEW%20Bettix%20Twin-Neck%20Measure%20%26%20Pour%20Alcohol%20Fuel%20Dispensing%20Bottle%20WITH%20CAPS%C2%A0

I have been doing this for  awhile now. I use a twin neck bottle that you squeeze to measure oil in the second neck.

[..]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164918168751?hash=item2665e38caf:g:c7YAAOSwXkJauqP8#:~:text=NEW%20Bettix%20Twin-Neck%20Measure%20%26%20Pour%20Alcohol%20Fuel%20Dispensing%20Bottle%20WITH%20CAPS%C2%A0

I have been doing this for  awhile now. I use a twin neck bottle that you squeeze to measure oil in the second neck.

Or this one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164918168751?hash=item2665e38caf:g:c7YAAOSwXkJauqP8#:~:text=NEW%20Bettix%20Twin-Neck%20Measure%20%26%20Pour%20Alcohol%20Fuel%20Dispensing%20Bottle%20WITH%20CAPS%C2%A0

[98valk]

nice bottles guys. thanks

[Avanti]

I save my marine stable bottles. Small, handy and so far do not leak.