Ultrasonic carb cleaning: chemicals

[PatrickDoss]

I read up before starting the project and decided to use the AtticRat's suggestion of Krud Kutter in the gray labeled bottle.  It says it's safe for most metals (long list on the bottle) and doesn't specify cutting with water for immersion cleaning, so I used it full-strength.  It seemed to work well overall on the first carb, but did still seem a little dirty/dull on the outside and the bronze parts in the bowl area.  Can't look new without being new, I figured.  My concern/question is that on the second carb (cylinder number 4, to be specific; I figured I'd work my way up one bank and down the other), it developed some whitish crud around the linkage plates where the balance screws go.  At first I thought it was where the cleaner bubbles had migrated to the high point as my tank is small and I couldn't completely cover the carb.  I turned the carb body over half-way through, figuring it would go away, but by the time I took it out of the cleaner, the "chrome" or whatever is no longer existent on those linkage plates.  The first carb, number 2, wasn't exactly bright and shiny, but I had figured that was just age.  There is still white powdery residue on the linkage plates, even coming out from underneath the cylindrical portion held on by the nut.  There's no instructions for removing the nut/linkage in the Honda service manual, and I didn't want to screw anything up (further) by trying to take it off to see if it was something underneath that needed cleaning out.  It also seemed to dull the butterfly in both carbs, which was relatively clean to start with.  So, how bad is it?  Did this eat off the finish, or am I seeing something else?  What's strange is, the first carb actually soaked in the cleaner overnight because I just let the timer run out and never went back to remove it, but it isn't anywhere near like this one, which came out and was rinsed off immediately.

(Ok, I don't have a page to host the pics since photobucket went stupid, so if someone who does wants to PM me and let me email you the photos, everybody can see)

[hubcapsc]

I'd post them...

-Mike

[Bighead]

Well Bob cleaned mine with the Krudcutter and they look as good as the day I bought her 22 years ago. Just sayin

[PatrickDoss]

I'd post them...

-Mike

Sent you an email.

[hubcapsc]

Here's Patrick's pictures:







-Mike

[indybobm]

Chemical reaction between the krudkutter and the container?

[pancho]

This has come up before,,  seems that anyone except the Attic Rat who uses Krud cutter has similar or worse results than you getting Patrick. To my knowledge, this mystery has not been solved.

[PatrickDoss]

Mike - thank you again for posting the pics.

Indybobm - it's a hornady ultrasonic unit that, I believe, is a stainless tub and basket. Unless you meant something else by container?

Pancho - do you remember if any of the others you read about had issues with function/performance as a result?

Thanks to everyone so far, and anyone else who has an idea.

[Ricky-D]

There are a half dozen different "Krud Cutter" labeled products.

Some may be safe for Valkyrie carburetors, and some may not be safe for Valkyrie carburetors.

***

[Forge]

I also used the same product in an Ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and had it screw up my carbs. I had a previous post on this subject and all of my carbs came out with a heavy, white, corrosion on them. Mine would not completely submerge, so I cleaned them for 9 minutes with heat and then turned them over and did another 9 minutes with heat. I used the straight Krud Cutter from Tractor Supply and rinsed them off immediately and then blew them out with compressed air. I used the same cleaner as Attic Rat. It’s worked great for some and corroded for others. My pics are in the link below.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,103455.msg1037080.html#msg1037080

[Itinifni]

Looking at the Krud Kutter web page they list far more than a half dozen products, can you tell us specifically which one you used?

While the "Parts Washer Cleaner/Degreaser" label looks grey so does the "Metal Clean & Etch".

I've always used Simple Green cleaners in my ultrasonic cleaner.

[PatrickDoss]

Ricky-D, Itinifni - it was the "parts washer cleaner/degreaser", as that's what I saw Attic Rat specifically mention in a post he made, and I knew he was well known for his work.

Forge - I really wish I'd kept looking and seen your post when doing my search before I bought the Krud Kutter.  I had gone with the KK because it was half the price of Berryman's Carb Dip, but I think I'm going to go ahead and get that for the remaining four (probably without heat).  My experience is pretty much like yours (except I ran mine hotter and longer) on the two I've done so far.  Right down to having to turn them over because of a shallow unit.  The only other thing I can think of, but I didn't see you mention anything of it in your other post, is how I cleaned them before disassembly. The bike had sat a good while and was grimy all over, so I sprayed the outside of the 6-carb assembly with a 50:50 Simple Green/water solution and scrubbed with an old toothbrush before thorough rinsing, before I ever separated them.  I don't know if there might have been some residual SG that reacted with the KK, or if it's completely unrelated.  But it is good to see you had no ill effects outside of cosmetics. That was my biggest concern. I'll post an update on how the others turn out once I get them done.

Thanks again to everyone for their assistance and input.

[RWhitehouse]

My go to has always been a 50/50 mix of simple green and water. Carbs always come out looking shiny and new and I've never had any sort of corrosion or adverse reaction, even on plastic parts. I just have the cheap harbor freight cleaner, which has actually been perfectly reliable and seen quite a bit of use for a few years.

*Just the original, regular simple green, none of the specialty variants they have now

[Attic Rat]

I use the Krud Kutter in the white bottle that says Parts wash and it is for ultrasonic cleaners. I turn the heat on low and run for 30 minutes that is all and they come out very clean. You can't leave carbs in overnight or the heat turn up too high that will cause a chemical reaction causing your problem

[nogrey]

I use the Krud Kutter in the white bottle that says Parts wash and it is for ultrasonic cleaners. I turn the heat on low and run for 30 minutes that is all and they come out very clean. You can't leave carbs in overnight or the heat turn up too high that will cause a chemical reaction causing your problem

What ultrasonic cleaner machine do you use?

[PatrickDoss]

Just to update, I finally got the chance to finish the remaining carbs (after losing quite some time to a deceased ultrasonic control panel I had to diagnose and then bypass). I experimented a bit with chemicals and time and what I found seemed to work well was about 15 minutes in the Krud Kutter followed by a thorough rinse with hot water in the utility sink, then spray can carb cleaner and compressed air. After that, since it wasn't spotless, I did 30 minutes in distilled water and a small amount of Simple Green (about 6oz. in the half-gallon or so of water my cheapo unit would hold), followed again by hot rinse and carb cleaner. Blew all the passages with air, and everything seemed good to go. Doesn't look "new", but no longer looks like it sat for two years before I bought it, either.  I didn't use heat after the control panel crapped out, doesn't seem to have made much difference.

Now if only I hadn't found 3 of the air cut valves to be bad (and to cost $60 each!).

[Ricky-D]

Air cut valves are not necessary for the correct operation of the engine. They are only designed to help eliminate popping when decelerating.

You could just block them off and see how it goes, and you may find it's acceptable to run under those conditions.

***

[hubcapsc]

This feller agrees with RickyD and is a fun read too...

https://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/aircut_valve_more.html

-Mike