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Author Topic: Universal Switch module  (Read 1102 times)
Troystg
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Posts: 208


DC


« on: April 23, 2019, 01:30:20 PM »

Hi All,

I sold my Valk and went lighter, however I ran into the same issue with the new bike as I had with the interstates.  How to connect and control accessories without a mess at the battery.   Below is that I posted in the CTX1300 group and just as I am posting it here.  (I may need some help posting the picture...)

As you can see in my new thread (https://www.ctx1300forum.com/forum/h...tml#post372599) I have been working on a mono wheel trailer and a "trailer Light Module" to power the lights on the trailer. In that design I decided that I also want front fog lights, upgraded horn and probably something else in the future. The problem is the battery terminals start to get congested and dangerous (even fused) with all the wires and it becomes an unmanageable mess. Not to mention the original issue of connecting to the LED signal controller system without damage.

With all that said, I had a friend design a switching module that I will be making for my bike(s).

If there is enough interest, I can have these produced in a fabrication shop and save everyone time and money. If there is no interest, I will just make mine and one for the PCB designer and be done with it.

Please reply to this thread if you are interested in joining a group buy for this module to help make it cheaper for everyone.

First, this is not a cheap ____ (insert country here) knock off, it will be well made and most likely over engineered.

Secondly it will be universal to use on any bike, boat or whatever.

Thirdly it does have some limitations like any product.

As always, I know every ones first thought is "how much?"

For my single PCB (no enclosure) I expect it to cost me around $75. That does not include the money I will give the designer for all his work on the PCB nor the time I will spend assembling(soldering) the PCB.
If >10 were needed, I could have a fabrication house make them and the cost would be less and zero work on our part. So I am putting this out to this group, my old Magna and Valkyrie groups. The more we have made the cheaper they get.



Description:

**ONLY ONE** 30 amp fused main circuit to the battery
Ignition switch activated outputs
Four switched outlets @1 amp for trailer lights.
Four switched outlets @8 amps for auxiliary uses such as horns, fog lights, etc.

Currently 2.5"W x 4.5"L Will have to assemble to measure height.

Below is the first revision of the board layout. It is being changed to include mounting holes.



https://photos.app.goo.gl/J7toiAJ5YXgBnzJ69

« Last Edit: April 23, 2019, 01:32:35 PM by Troystg » Logged

Troy
9Ball
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Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2019, 04:43:59 AM »

There are several good choices for a fuse panel and power supply that is relay activated by your ignition power circuit and options to have continuous power directly from the battery.

I bought and installed a weather resistant automotive power panel made by Painless.  I used the 4 circuit with three relay activated power and one continuous circuit.  There are many options for larger systems if you have need for many accessories such as heated gear, trailer, aux driving lights, stebel horn, gps, phone charger, etc.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Painless-Performance-Products/764/70213/10002/-1

I also installed relays for the stebel horn and driving lights.

I’m sure others will pipe in about their systems.  The painless harness was about $50 at the time I bought it but I’m sure prices have gone up in the past 12 years or so.

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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2019, 06:19:15 AM »

I did a quick 'Net search for "automotive power panel" and came up with literally dozens of results. Some tend towards the cheap; others, rugged and waterproof. Most are in the sub-$100 price range.

When I owned Chet's (Rattlebars) old VTX1800C, it was set up with an Electrical Connection "Power Plate". This choice made a lot of sense, as the under-seat area was limited in height. I added relay switching in series with the supply lead, so all circuits were energized with ignition key ON (instead of being constantly energized).

My two Concours 14s are set up with Fuze Blocks. The constant-on circuit is wired to a Powerlet connector (to facilitate charging the battery with a Battery Tender) and the bike's Accessory +12v connector is used to trigger the relay for the other accessory circuits.

This year I need to look into redoing the power distribution arrangement of both my I/S and Tourer. As with the VTX, under-seat space is limited  - thanks to the installed radios in each - and I'll need to use a low-profile setup. Preferably, one with a dust cover over the fuses...if such an animal exists.
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Fazer
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Posts: 947


West Chester (Cincinnati), Ohio


« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2019, 07:52:52 AM »

Hard to beat the PC8 from Easter Beaver.  Search the forum for PC8 and you will get lots of info.  The wiring harness that comes with a relay is very handy.  Here is a link...
https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

Not cheap, but it won't let you down.
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Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2019, 08:56:42 AM »

Just took a look at the Eager Beaver site...I'm very impressed with their product portfolio, especially the Connectors section. I think this is the way I'll go.  cooldude
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Paladin528
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Posts: 722


Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2019, 08:59:18 AM »

I have the PC8 on my interstate.  Its a great addition
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