Red Diamond
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« on: April 24, 2019, 04:16:56 AM » |
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Had a wobble before I installed fork seals and new front tire, I thought the wobble would be gone after the work was completed. I’ve checked the shock bushings, new tire on rear, everything seems to be okay, after 20 years maybe the steering head needs a little adjustment, looking for information from anyone who has experienced this issue. The Interstate has 42k miles and the wobble usually goes away with the installation of a new tire. I would appreciate any information available. Thank, Eli
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
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Avanti
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2019, 11:44:54 AM » |
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I would check wheel bearings and steering stem bearings. You would have it all the time if your front wheel (rim) was bent, so probably not that.
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2019, 01:01:24 PM » |
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I checked the wheel and rotor runout when I balanced the tire, things are fine there. Thanks for the heads up on the bearings, will pull and take a look.
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
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Disco
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Posts: 4897
Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject
Republic of Texas
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« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2019, 05:52:35 PM » |
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I'm with Avanti about checking steering stem and wheel bearings. If the fronts are OK, check the rears, too.
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2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike 22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT 78 CB550K 71 Suzuki MT50 Trailhopper .jpg) VRCC 27,916 IBA 44,783
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SideCar
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Posts: 1493
Bikers don't need shrinks!
Colleyville, TX
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« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2019, 06:17:29 AM » |
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And, while you can pull the stem bearings to check, this can also be caused by good bearings just being loose. I suggest you check that they are tight enough first and ride to see if that fixes before you go through the trouble of pulling them.
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Gitter
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« Reply #5 on: May 03, 2019, 08:08:21 AM » |
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Eli the wobble I had was due to the rear DS tire the side walls were surprisingly flimsy and I feel that’s where the wobble was coming from. With the new tire it is completely gone now. Did you change brand of tire this time?
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Kevin 1997 Standard "The Jet" 2000 Valkyrie IS 2001 Valkyrie IS 2000 Valkyrie IS 1986 Honda Shaddow
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #6 on: May 03, 2019, 03:32:18 PM » |
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Yes Kevin, I installed a Bridgestone Exedra Max, I usually run Elite3’s.
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
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Gitter
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2019, 03:43:05 AM » |
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If sitting on the bike at a stop and you quickly turn the handle bar left and right and it feels like the wobble continues for another second? Because that is what mine was doing but with the new DS tire it is gone.
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Kevin 1997 Standard "The Jet" 2000 Valkyrie IS 2001 Valkyrie IS 2000 Valkyrie IS 1986 Honda Shaddow
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Tx Bohemian
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« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2019, 04:49:21 AM » |
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So, has this issue been resolved yet?
Maybe I missed it but when does it wobble?
Slow speeds? up to 15-20mph All speeds? 0 - however fast you want to go Certain speeds, comes and goes? starts at 20 goes away at 30
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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!! Al
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2019, 05:50:43 PM » |
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The wobble is somewhere above 35 to 45mph, if above that then when slowing down until it gets to about 45mph. All this takes place while removing hands from the bars, which I never do unless checking for a wobble.
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
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nogrey
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Posts: 939
Live every day as if it were your last
Nampa, Idaho
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« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2019, 06:37:11 PM » |
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I have made repairs to several Valks that were experiencing wheel wobble. Bushings good, new tires, front forks straight etc. in each case the wobble was due to triple tree bearings needing re-packed. These bikes are getting old, and the triple tree bearings are often overlooked in routing maintenance. In each case, the grease in the triple trees was completely turned to dust. In one case the triple tree bearings were loose. It’s not a very difficult job if you do it my (redneck) way. I’ve had good success. Put the bike on an ATV lift. Raise it until the bike is level leaving the front wheel on the ground but loose. Loosen the top clamps to the triple tree. Remove the top triple tree bolt and washer. Remove the top triple tree. This exposes the lock nut, the locking ring and the torque nut. Remove all three of these (using a screw driver and a hammer is adequate). This exposes the top triple tree bearing. Remove it and clean it and the triple tree race. Now raise the bike slowly allowing the front fork assembly to drop away about 4 inches. This will expose the lower triple tree bearing. It can be cleaned and re-packed on the bike. Clean the lower race as well. Re-install everything and tighten the torque nut until the wheel turns with a bit of friction. Install the lock washer and the top lock nut. Make sure you get it torqued tight enough to feel resistance when you turn the handlebar. If it is too loose you will still experience wobble. There must be some resistance. Hope this helps.
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Tx Bohemian
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« Reply #11 on: July 10, 2019, 05:22:34 AM » |
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Looks like nogrey has quite a bit of experience on this. And a great write up on how to repair it.
One thing I'd add is once the Trees are apart, examine the races for "dings".
Good luck on this issue.
When I first got my bike, 7-8yrs ago, it only had 17K miles on it. There was quite a lot of talk here about dings in the races that could possibly cause a steering issue (not sure about a wobble though). So when I changed out my forks and triple trees due to horrendous peeling chrome I changed out my neck bearings too. Didn't see or feel much wrong with them but with all the talk here...
Hardest part of the job was removing the outer-races. There was quite a few suggestions here that seemed extreme to me. Involved welding and heating and such. I modified an angled punch and was able to get to the back side of the race and punch it out. Worked well. And easy! These are "tapered roller bearings" just like the ones on older RWD cars/trucks.
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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!! Al
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Red Diamond
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« Reply #12 on: July 10, 2019, 08:20:04 AM » |
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It was suggested by Sidecar (Gary) that the head bearings may only need an adjustment, but given the amount of time I have to dedicate to the issue my Interstate had been in the sitting position. I hope to be able to get to it later this summer.
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 If you are riding and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.
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Tx Bohemian
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« Reply #13 on: July 11, 2019, 05:21:50 AM » |
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...but given the amount of time I have to dedicate to the issue my Interstate had been in the sitting position. I hope to be able to get to it later this summer.
Totally understand that!! I've been walking past my bike for the last 3 weeks, on the way to more pressing events, thinking "I really need to at least crank it up and drive it around the block a couple of times!"! Hopefully I'll remedy that this Friday. A small group of us are planning to go to a brewery in Port Lavaca. As long as Barry doesn't change our minds.
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Logged
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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!! Al
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