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Author Topic: Fork oil  (Read 1710 times)
Glaserbeam
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Southern California


« on: April 29, 2019, 10:44:35 AM »

Getting ready to rebuild the front forks.  My bike wasn't serviced much by the PO and still has the original fork oil, which has deteriorated and is not damping the forks much.  Ordered new seals and bushings.  Shop manual calls for Honda SS8 - 10W oil.  Wondering if I can get a plusher ride with SS7 - 5W oil.  Has anyone used 5W or maybe mixed 5W and 10W to get something in-between?
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Jersey
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VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2019, 10:57:31 AM »

I use 7wt.  Seems to work well.
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Jersey
Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2019, 11:12:07 AM »

I have read that all fork oils are not equal; and I don't mean some are better than others, I mean one's 10wt may not be the same as another's 10 wt.

Depending on teardown, some measure the height of the oil in the shocks, and others measure the volume added.

I think the crucial thing in this project is not to overfill by one iota.  And better yet, go for a one or two ounce underfill, regardless of oil weight.

Years ago, I paid a dealer large money to rebuild mine (and add Progressive springs) (with 10 wt),  and the finished product was hard as a rock and I hated it.  Short of taking them to court, they would not go back in for less than another full payment.  It took about two years for them to soften up a bit (I never pulled any oil).  I'm not the only one to have this problem, and some did the work themselves.
« Last Edit: April 29, 2019, 12:03:41 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
flash2002
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Posts: 268


Montreal, Que


« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2019, 11:54:35 AM »

When I rebuild my forks I use transmission oil. I have progressive springs and with 23oz of oil they work fine.
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sandy
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Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2019, 01:30:10 PM »

When I rebuild my forks I use transmission oil. I have progressive springs and with 23oz of oil they work fine.
Trans oil is 10W and works fine. I recently rebuilt my forks and installed Hyper Pro springs. Lots more $$$ but I feel they're worth it. They came with a liter of 15W with HP label. I used it in the right damper side and had to mix 10W with the remainder of 15W in the left side. The bike rides great and has very little dive on hard braking.
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Glaserbeam
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Southern California


« Reply #5 on: April 29, 2019, 01:49:37 PM »

I should have specified: does anyone use 5W/7W with stock fork springs? (since I won't be changing my springs)
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h13man
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To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2019, 06:12:36 AM »

I have #80 Racetech springs and I use Belray HVI 10w when possible/available but Spectra and Belray regular 10w. I use also and seem to be available everywhere. Tranny fluid is about a 7w and I used it alot when was younger/poorer as it was recommended by manufacturers in the pocket service manual.
« Last Edit: May 01, 2019, 07:35:15 AM by h13man » Logged
Paladin528
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Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #7 on: April 30, 2019, 06:51:08 AM »

I just did mine and put progressive springs in and BelRay 15W.  I am a heavy guy.  The ride is definitely firmer but nice
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #8 on: April 30, 2019, 07:19:24 AM »

I should have specified: does anyone use 5W/7W with stock fork springs? (since I won't be changing my springs)

with that light weight oil and stock springs, the bike will nose dive upon braking, esp heavy braking which could cause the suspension to bottom out resulting in possible loss of control of the bike if not braking on a smooth surface.

progressive springs and that weight oil is a great upgrade for a smooth ride and braking control.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
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Glaserbeam
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Southern California


« Reply #9 on: April 30, 2019, 08:46:58 AM »

Good point, CA.  Hadn't considered hard-braking nosedive.
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Paladin528
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Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2019, 08:59:57 AM »

I dont get the dive I used to.  Get the progressive springs while you are in there.  Great upgrade
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #11 on: April 30, 2019, 09:15:02 AM »

Good point, CA.  Hadn't considered hard-braking nosedive.


thanks, plus I see in your pic u have fairing.  if keeping it I would put the progressives in.
as u see as many posted suspensions are not really a cut and dry.

I don't have a fairing on my std/tourer, run small hellcat windshield most of the yr and run full size rifle windshield in winter temps.
put progressives in with amsoil 10w suspension fluid and even put slightly less of it as others had recommended. every small bump like a rock, not smooth at all. remove some fluid, was better. removed more and replaced with a mix of amsoil 5w and 10wt which is about 7.5wt. Now she rides perfect. no more jarring over small bumps.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #12 on: April 30, 2019, 11:50:01 AM »

         When we redid my I/S left the springs stock but new seals and bushings and picked the 10 wt oil up from Honda. STILL rides good after 3 or 4 years. And under heavy braking situations she do NOT bottom out and scare the crap outa this old guy!  2funny RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #13 on: April 30, 2019, 02:42:40 PM »

         When we redid my I/S left the springs stock but new seals and bushings and picked the 10 wt oil up from Honda. STILL rides good after 3 or 4 years. And under heavy braking situations she do NOT bottom out and scare the crap outa this old guy!  2funny RIDE SAFE.

The I/S has different valving than the std/tourer to handle the weight of the fairing hence doesn't nose drive easily. all models use the same springs.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
srteach
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Twin Falls Idaho


« Reply #14 on: April 30, 2019, 03:24:22 PM »

The higher the weight of oil, the more damping you get. Better than stock springs (Progressives) will support the bike in hard braking. Overfilling will hit a hard stop when the air space is compressed. Better to underfill (very slightly) as previously stated.
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Paladin528
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Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #15 on: May 01, 2019, 04:49:06 AM »

         When we redid my I/S left the springs stock but new seals and bushings and picked the 10 wt oil up from Honda. STILL rides good after 3 or 4 years. And under heavy braking situations she do NOT bottom out and scare the crap outa this old guy!  2funny RIDE SAFE.

The I/S has different valving than the std/tourer to handle the weight of the fairing hence doesn't nose drive easily. all models use the same springs.

Before I upgraded to progressive and 15 wt oil my IS nose dived like crazy.  Its good now.
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Glaserbeam
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Southern California


« Reply #16 on: June 10, 2019, 01:01:25 PM »

Got the forks rebuilt.  New oil seals, dust seals, metal bushings, and a blend of Honda 5W/10W oil.  Now it's compliant and doesn't nose-dive.  And now the stock rear shocks feel harsh by comparison, even at setting "1."  What do you recommend for replacement rear shocks that are the same height but softer?
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