Timing wheel modification rehash

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

I searched the forum, and most of the posts I'm looking for are in the now-defunct old tech archive. I have a 98 standard. I've added IS carb slide springs, and have a used IS ICM coming. I also have timing belts on the way, and the recent post about Hondaline clearancing the 6 degree wheels got me thinking. I don't want the 6 degree wheel, especially with the IS ICM. I'm also thinking that 4 may be more than I'm looking for. I am thinking about filing down the alignment tooth on the OEM trigger wheel. Many of the old pics are no longer working. Anybody have a picture of a 4 degree wheel and a stock wheel together, so the offset of the alignment tooth is visible? I'm really only looking to add another 2 or 3 degrees by way of the wheel. I added a hitch and wiring over the winter, and plan to pick up a trailer at some point. Too much advance with the extra load may lead to detonation. If I wasn't planning on towing, I'd probably drop in a 4 degree wheel and be done with it, but even then, I've seen some posts saying that the aftermarket wheels have teeth that are too rounded.

I know this is all old news to you Valk veterans, but us relatively new owners can't always access the older info here due to broken links and pictures.

Thanks for any info you could share.

[Jess from VA]

I just know that one of my interstates came with a 4 degree wheel, and sometimes it knocked pretty good (bad) on crummy corn gas (regular), mostly on hard acceleration.  So I pulled it out and gave it away and went stock. 

[Cracker Jack]

Oil, the tooth width on a stock trigger wheel calculates to  almost exactly 4 degrees. What a coincidence! Use that information to file the tab to the advance you would like.  

Keep in mind that the engine turns counter clockwise looking at it from the front, therefore you need to file the left (counter clockwise) side of the alignment tooth looking at it from the front (marked outside).

The best part of this modification is that it is reversible.

[RWhitehouse]

I just went through this exact same thing. Lots of old threads, also lots of missing pictures and dead links.

I also have a '98 Standard. The only place I found still selling timing wheels is Cyclemax, who only seems to offer a 4* wheel.

I swapped in the 4* wheel (stock ECM) and really like the change. Noticeably more grunt in the lower-mid range, and I noticed a consistent 3-4 mpg gain across the board. Easily 15-20 more miles per tank. To me, that's worth it all on it's own. Not that I really care about fuel cost, but the bump in range is certainly welcome.

Cyclemax suggested using 90+ octane, although being a cheap arse I've continued to use 87 and noticed no signs of knock, even deliberately lugging the hell out it so see if it would. This is at essentially sea level, in Texas summer. Cold weather may be a different story.

I did not notice any of the occasionally reported side effects, like difficult cold starting (then again, "cold" here is maybe 55*) or a loss of top end power. It still eagerly pulls up to the limiter at 7500rpm. If there's less top end, my butt certainly can't tell the difference, but it does seem most of the benefit is in the 1500-3500rpm range.

I investigated the ECT mod, but 10* of advance seems very aggressive and I can definitely see causing issues and mandating premium fuel. I saw there's an adjustable version that lets you dial it from stock to 10*, which seems much better but I wasn't big on the idle going up and down depending if you were in gear or not. Also from what I read, the ECT mod is only effective up to about 3000rpm, where the ECU goes back to stock curve regardless of the temp signal it has. If your highway is 55mph that might be fine, but highways down here are more like 80, meaning the RPM is out of the effective zone and the MPG benefit is null.  So, I went with the 4* wheel.  Easy install and Cyclemax provides detailed instructions also.

Check your belt tensioners also. One of mine was shot with about 40k on it. Grease spitting out of the bearing and the idler had a lot of slop. The other wasn't leaking or as sloppy, but still had more play than I'd consider acceptable. Rebuilt both with the Gates idler for a bunch of Kia four cylinders that fits perfectly.  (there's a write up about it somewhere here, the idlers were like $9 on rock auto, vs like $120 for the whole assembly from Honda)

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

Thanks for the replies. Appreciate the input.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Air-Lake and HondaDirectLine offered Trigger Wheels when our 1500s were first produced.

The Air-Lake parts were laser-cut, whereas the HDL offerings were stamped. As such, you had to pay closer attention to pickup sensor position with the latter due to the overall shape of the teeth.

That said...I have a couple of HDL wheels kicking around the stash. Pretty sure there's both a 4 degree and an 6 degree, and they're eventually going to be offered in the Classifieds to anyone who wants them.

[John Schmidt]

My Tourer is set up with I/S carb springs, I/S ECM, and a 4* TW. The I/S ECM gives you 2* up to around 4500rpm if I recall correctly so with a 4* TW you get a 6* advance. The difference is with the 6* TW it stays at that much advance full time, thereby causing some loss of top end. With the set up I mentioned, the advance drops back to the 4* given with the 4* TW and the top end loss is negligible, yet gives you the same amount of "grunt" on the bottom end. As for starting, the 4* hasn't given me any problems in the 15+ yrs. I've had it, and I can use regular gas but usually opt for the mid-grade.

[Ricky-D]

I've a "La Monster" 6° degree wheel if anyone is interested.   Ricky-D

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