Red Eye O-rings

[burple05]

Has anybody here used the red urethane O-rings to service the rear end from Red Eye?  I'm having a real problem getting the hub to get over the elusive 3rd o-ring when trying to install wheel.  It will slide over it fairly easily not attatched to the wheel.  But once installed on wheel I can't get it to go.  It is noticeably thicker than the black one I removed.  Foght with it for 5-6 hours yesterday and never got it to fully engage the spines because that o-ring.  New o-ring is trashed now.  I have another one.  Thinking about just putting the old one back in.  I can't deal with another day like that.  Is their some kind of trick to get the wheel on that I just don't know.

thanks, Ron.

[Chrisj CMA]

I have heard this complaint before. I just get Honda ones

[John Schmidt]

Ron, line everything up and slip the axle in place clear through to the left side but leave out the brake mount and the spacer. That lets you slide the wheel back/forth on the axle without holding the wheel up while doing so....giving less chance of ruining the o-ring. Once the wheel is in place, then pull the axle back out just enough to install the spacer and brake mount.

[Savage]

I am going to chine in because I have wasted so many hours on that BS. I couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong. Truth be told, I personally think the o-ring is just too thick but some would disagree.
It is way easier with another person helping.

Here is what I did last time that worked. There might be better ways, I don’t know, but I have used this method several times now including once in a parking lot in the middle of the night when I lost a rear wheel bearing and replaced it all alone with a spare I had in the saddlebag. You can try it out, might work for you.

-Jack up the bike
-Tie up the rear brake caliper
-Make sure there is a light coating of grease on the massive o-ring
-Lightly grease the axle, insert and remove it from the wheel (to align the spacer inside the wheel)
-Put the rear wheel, hub installed, in place inside the swingarm (I just stand it up in there and wedge it with a pice or two of wood)
-Meticulously adjust the heighth of the bike using the floor jack until you have a good lineup on the axle hole in the final drive, the hole through the center of the wheel, and the hole in the other side of the swingarm.
-DO NOT install any of the brake caliper/spacer/etc parts on the left side of the wheel YET.
-With everything lined up, install the axle through the final drive, wheel, and swingarm. This may take further adjustment/wiggling to get it in a straight line.
-Install the axle nut on the left side, capturing the axle
-Jack the bike up a bit more so the rear tire is fully off the ground
-Align the hub in the wheel with the teeth in the final drive
-Keeping it aligned, carefully use the extra space on the axle to gain a little momentum and slide the wheel on the axle and into the final drive. If you do it right, the feeling of it seating is unmistakable.

From here, I keep that wheel/hub installed in the final drive just where it is, and my goal is to gently and meticulously lower the bike so the tire is JUST touching the ground.then I loosen the axle nut. Just a little at a time, I adjust the height so the axle has as little pressure on it as possible and then I push the free axle put of the swingarm on the left side... then insert the brake caliper/spacer/etc parts one at a time, pushing the axle through that part from the other side just enough to hold it in place while I install the next part. Once it’s all in place I push the through as far as I can by hand and start to thread the axle nut on. If necessary the axle can be given a tap with a rubber mallet from the final drive side to push it the rest of the way through.

I might be missing something, and will check this post a bit later. I hope that helps, and doesn’t sound more overly complicated than it actually is. I’ve actually grown to find this method the easiest after pwrforming complete rear end teardowns on at least 20 Valks.

If you would like to chat on the phone I can give you a few minutes to clarify all this. PM me your phone number. Good luck brother!

[Savage]

Ron, line everything up and slip the axle in place clear through to the left side but leave out the brake mount and the spacer. That lets you slide the wheel back/forth on the axle without holding the wheel up while doing so....giving less chance of ruining the o-ring. Once the wheel is in place, then pull the axle back out just enough to install the spacer and brake mount.

Da%*it I wish I hadn’t typed all that now!!

[98valk]

I followed their instructions and had zero problems installing it. that was 10k miles ago no problems.

[da prez]

  I use the O-rings from Carolina bike and trike. Five sets about $12.00 plus shipping.  Have had no issues with them.

                                                da prez

[Randy52]

Had trouble getting wheel seated last tire change, think I put too much grease in spline recess causing a "hydraulic block". I removed excess grease and it went together.

 

[burple05]

Ding, ding, ding.  Randy52.  With the help of my Bud, Got it back together last night.  Although I re-installed original O-ring.  We fought New red one for about 20 minutes.  Said screw it and went back with the oe.  Still had a lot of trouble but got it to go.  One of my last thoughts were could there be too much grease in their and it's causing it to pressure lock it?  Not sure that was exactly what was going on but makes a lot of sense.  I'll test ride it tonight after work, making sure everything is good.  Hoping It doesn't sling grease all over.  It's got plenty already on it from my moly grease fingerprints all over the bike.  Thanks everybody.  It was so bad I don't ever want to do it again.  But with this gained knowledge I'm sure I will.  At least now I know it was properly cleaned and lubed.  It had a tone of old impacted grease I the cups.  And splines.  Oh!  I almost ripped my thumb nail off last night as a bonus.

Peace. Ron.

[SCain]

  I use the O-rings from Carolina bike and trike. Five sets about $12.00 plus shipping.  Have had no issues with them.

                                                da prez

 

[burple05]

Forgot to mention.  Local Honda dealer has changed my tires since I've had it.  It has 57,000 miles on it now.  Bought it 3 years ago with 31,000.  Splines did have some wear on them maybe 15-20 %.  Probably because it was missing the thrust washer.  How can a dealer not install such a critical part?  Never mind I know the answer.  Of course that's why I did it myself this time.  Surely it will go more smoothly in the many tire changes in the future.  Honda charged me $62 dollars just to mount my new Avon Cobra, that I didn't buy from them.  How hard are these big radial tires too change yourself?  Absolutely love this bike.  She's a beast.

Peace, Ron.

[da prez]

  Read my post in final drive spline damage.

                                    da prez

[SPOFF]

How hard are these big radial tires too change yourself? 

I bought 22-inch tire irons from Harbor Freight. I mounted my last rear tire in under 6 minutes (less than two songs on the radio). My trick is use real tire lube (not soap). The bead set at 10 psi with a satisfying pop. A Valkyrie tire is MUCH easier than a 17" knobby. God himself can't mount one of those.

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

I used the RedEye O-ring kit for mine, and had no problems installing the rear wheel just as the instructions that came with them said. I'm also guessing hydraulic lock as the potential cause of your issues. Heck, I've used grease to drive pilot bearings/bushings from crankshafts a number of times. I once had to replace a transmission case on a Jeep Grand Cherokee because a quick lube shop dropped the pan to change the filter. They used RTV instead of the standard gasket, and used way too much. About half of the pan bolts either blew the threads out of the aluminum or cracked the case itself because there was RTV in the holes when they drove the bolts in. Something had to give.

[burple05]

Thanks for all the input fellow Valkers.  I hope it was the grease hydroloc theory.  Only thing is with the hub off the wheel you could feel it stop at the o-ring and it would just pop in noticeably over the o-ring.  But while attached  on the wheel forget it.  Couldn't understand why it wouldn't go with gears already engaged, all but the 1/8" to go over the o-ring, and the axle slid all the way through as a guide.  Anyway, test road it for about 5 miles last night and it feels better than ever.  Smooth, quite, and  very little slack in the drive.  Amazing if you service it the way it's suppose to be done.  I'm sure re-installing the missing thrust washer helped along with correct cleaning and proper paste, and grease.  Halaluyahuah!!  I'll be more careful with amount of lube next time and we'll see.  Now to change the brake fluid, air filter, fuel line.  Headed to Santa Fe the week after Inzane for vacation.  Talk about bad timing on my part.  I hope to make one of those in the next couple of years.  Maybe you guys could let me know some of the best roads to travel around Santa Fe, Taos, areas.  Also doing Durango for 2 days.  It's gotta be cool as Hell on a group ride with  several hundred Valkyries ripping up the twisties.  It's gonna happen, some day!

Peace, Ron .

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thanks for all the input fellow Valkers.  I hope it was the grease hydroloc theory.  Only thing is with the hub off the wheel you could feel it stop at the o-ring and it would just pop in noticeably over the o-ring.  But while attached  on the wheel forget it.  Couldn't understand why it wouldn't go with gears already engaged, all but the 1/8" to go over the o-ring, and the axle slid all the way through as a guide.  Anyway, test road it for about 5 miles last night and it feels better than ever.  Smooth, quite, and  very little slack in the drive.  Amazing if you service it the way it's suppose to be done.  I'm sure re-installing the missing thrust washer helped along with correct cleaning and proper paste, and grease.  Halaluyahuah!!  I'll be more careful with amount of lube next time and we'll see.  Now to change the brake fluid, air filter, fuel line.  Headed to Santa Fe the week after Inzane for vacation.  Talk about bad timing on my part.  I hope to make one of those in the next couple of years.  Maybe you guys could let me know some of the best roads to travel around Santa Fe, Taos, areas.  Also doing Durango for 2 days.  It's gotta be cool as Hell on a group ride with  several hundred Valkyries ripping up the twisties.  It's gonna happen, some day!

Peace, Ron .

There have been a few reports of the Redeye o-rings being harder to install. I think it's because they are a different, tougher kind of "rubber".

[98valk]

Thanks for all the input fellow Valkers.  I hope it was the grease hydroloc theory.  Only thing is with the hub off the wheel you could feel it stop at the o-ring and it would just pop in noticeably over the o-ring.  But while attached  on the wheel forget it.  Couldn't understand why it wouldn't go with gears already engaged, all but the 1/8" to go over the o-ring, and the axle slid all the way through as a guide.  Anyway, test road it for about 5 miles last night and it feels better than ever.  Smooth, quite, and  very little slack in the drive.  Amazing if you service it the way it's suppose to be done.  I'm sure re-installing the missing thrust washer helped along with correct cleaning and proper paste, and grease.  Halaluyahuah!!  I'll be more careful with amount of lube next time and we'll see.  Now to change the brake fluid, air filter, fuel line.  Headed to Santa Fe the week after Inzane for vacation.  Talk about bad timing on my part.  I hope to make one of those in the next couple of years.  Maybe you guys could let me know some of the best roads to travel around Santa Fe, Taos, areas.  Also doing Durango for 2 days.  It's gotta be cool as Hell on a group ride with  several hundred Valkyries ripping up the twisties.  It's gonna happen, some day!

Peace, Ron .

There have been a few reports of the Redeye o-rings being harder to install. I think it's because they are a different, tougher kind of "rubber".

they are polyurethane
https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/18218041/final-drive-o-rings-for-valkyrie-polyurethane

[Paladin528]

Thanks for all the input fellow Valkers.  I hope it was the grease hydroloc theory.  Only thing is with the hub off the wheel you could feel it stop at the o-ring and it would just pop in noticeably over the o-ring.  But while attached  on the wheel forget it.  Couldn't understand why it wouldn't go with gears already engaged, all but the 1/8" to go over the o-ring, and the axle slid all the way through as a guide.  Anyway, test road it for about 5 miles last night and it feels better than ever.  Smooth, quite, and  very little slack in the drive.  Amazing if you service it the way it's suppose to be done.  I'm sure re-installing the missing thrust washer helped along with correct cleaning and proper paste, and grease.  Halaluyahuah!!  I'll be more careful with amount of lube next time and we'll see.  Now to change the brake fluid, air filter, fuel line.  Headed to Santa Fe the week after Inzane for vacation.  Talk about bad timing on my part.  I hope to make one of those in the next couple of years.  Maybe you guys could let me know some of the best roads to travel around Santa Fe, Taos, areas.  Also doing Durango for 2 days.  It's gotta be cool as Hell on a group ride with  several hundred Valkyries ripping up the twisties.  It's gonna happen, some day!

Peace, Ron .

Make sure the o-ring groove is full clean of crap.  my first wheel chage after I got the bike there was no groove.  It was full of old o-ring and glazed over.  you could not tell there should be an -o-ring there.  I cleaned it out good and got the o-ring to fit and is slid on with only a little resistance as expected.  Don't over grease the splines either.