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Author Topic: Dust seal & Seal Doctor  (Read 2128 times)
Relax
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Power & elegance...just like the Valk

Oslo, Norway


« on: May 28, 2019, 04:31:30 AM »



Smiley
Standar, 2001, close to 100 k miles on the clock

I have a small leak from right fork ( dried away on pic)
Want to go for Seal Doctor, and , as i get it, I should remove the dust seal first.
From the manual it look like they use a flat screw driver, pulling it  in and drag it down C A R E F U  L Y.
I did a small test, but it seems like I have to push rather hard on the screw driver to get it in to grab the seal.  I am afraid to destroy the dust seal !!!
Any good advise?


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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2019, 04:42:53 AM »

just be careful. It’s not hard
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Valkorado
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VRCC DS 0242

Gunnison, Colorado (7,703') Here there be twisties.


« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2019, 04:43:15 AM »

I use a putty knife to break the seal, then a wide thin screwdriver.  As mentioned, being careful is important as you don't want to nick the top of the seal.  Once the seal is broken you can pull it down the rest of the way with your hand.  Run that Seal Doctor 360° a couple times, wipe down with a clean cloth and reseal.  Then get on the bike, hold  your front brake and bounce the forks several times. I have had to repeat the procedure to stop the leak.  It usually works, at least temporarily.

Oh yeah. I wrap a shop towel around the lower fork when doing this to keep the fluid from slopping out.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2019, 04:46:43 AM by Valkorado » Logged

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97 Tourer "Silver Bullet"
01 Interstate "Ruby"

Jess from VA
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« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2019, 04:48:49 AM »

Just work around the edge with a thin blade screwdriver (like removing a paint can lid), it'll come loose and slide down out of the way.

Once you push the Dr cleaner lip up under there, the idea is to work it around the fork a few times.

It's much easier if you pull the chrome fork protector off first.  A small wrench (8-10 mm?)

Expect some additional fork oil to leak on on cleaning, no big deal.

When done, get on the bike and bounce the forks hard up and down a few times. Clean and repeat until no more leaking.  Replace protector.

I used the Seal Mate and not the better Seal Doctor, and was able to get my forks to stop leaking for long periods before it came back;  for like 5-6 years before the forks were finally removed and fixed with new parts.

Even though I lost oil from leaking and from cleaning, in all that time I never lost any appreciable fork function that I could tell.

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F6Dave
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« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2019, 06:12:43 AM »

Like Jess said, working around it like a paint can works best.  That lets it come out straight.  It will be at an angle and bind if you just pry from a single point.

The Seal Doctor is a great tool.  I'm sure the Seal Mate can get the job done, but with the Doctor it's easier to do a thorough and uniform job of cleaning the seal.  It also works without removing parts, which is nearly impossible with the Seal Mate.
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Relax
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Posts: 322


Power & elegance...just like the Valk

Oslo, Norway


« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2019, 06:24:44 AM »

Mission accomplished !

Removed the chrome fork protecktors (10 mmwrench) , careully and rather easily removed dust protector and follow your istruction. It looks good now, but of course I won't know for sure if the sealing is good until I have had a bit longer run..which will not be in a day or two  Embarrassed

Thanks guys for quick replies! cooldude
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RonW
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Newport Beach


« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2019, 07:29:01 PM »

Seal Doctor is too thick to use on an old oil seal. You'd be safer to use Seal Mate or plastic of equivalent thinness. At least that's my experience. Feel free to confirm this "fact" though.
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
h13man
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To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2019, 09:27:32 PM »

35mm camera film is one the oldest tool for this situation.
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Relax
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Posts: 322


Power & elegance...just like the Valk

Oslo, Norway


« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2019, 11:28:43 AM »

Feed back....

Finally had a ride,,about 300 miles,,and the fork is just as clean from oil now as when I left !
No leaks so far!  Wink Smiley Smiley

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Jess from VA
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« Reply #9 on: May 31, 2019, 11:36:09 AM »

35mm camera film is one the oldest tool for this situation.

My first attempts were with 35mm film negatives.  The small amount of oil leaked out made it impossible for me to grasp it firmly enough to perform the sawing motion around the forks.  Too slippery.  Nitrile gloves didn't help either.  It wasn't much better with the Seal Mate, but I did make that work.
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Old71Rider
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St. Augustine, Florida


« Reply #10 on: July 01, 2019, 03:29:13 PM »

Same problem with my 1999. I used the seal mate product. It got a lot of dirt out. Then I went one step further. I soaked cotton balls in transmission "Honey". The type that is used in transmissions to soften hardened seals. Left the dust cover down and stuffed the cotton up the fork tube around the inner seal. Let it sit overnight. Repeated the process a couple of more times. Stopped the leak. I'm still researching the makeup of the transmission "Honey". I think I could put a small amount of it in fork tubes and that might prevent drying up of the seals.
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RonW
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Newport Beach


« Reply #11 on: July 02, 2019, 05:56:34 PM »

Just asking, how long ago was this done?
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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #12 on: July 03, 2019, 03:02:40 AM »

when done, install a piece of felt saturated with power steering fluid with leak stop and reinstall the dust seal.
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