New Valkyrie owner with some questions to get valk ready for touring.

[big_adv_rider]

Hello there my name is Dustin.  I have been looking on this forum a bit however I just got an active account so I can post. 

I have a smaller cruiser (2006 Suzuki Boulevard M50) and a dual sport (2011 KLR 650).   I really liked the look, comfort, and power of the older Valkyries.  I ended up buying a 2003 Valkyrie non-touring model.  It has 34k miles on it.  I think I got a pretty good deal but I think it also needs some standard maintenance work.  The previous owner said he took it to a shop but didn't know when stuff like fluids were done.  I am assuming that I need to do pretty much all the periodic maintenance stuff. 

I am looking to do some touring on it this summer so I want to get it ready for the road. 

What is good
 - Bike is overall in pretty good cosmetic shape except for a little rust on the frame below the engine
 - For the most part it starts and runs well.  It died once after a cold start with no throttle.  I had to start it and give it a bit of throttle to get it up to temp. 
 - fuel petcock seems to work.  If I turn it off the bike does shut off after like a mile of riding. 
 - front tire is newer.  PO replaced it. 
 - battery seems ok.  PO replaced it last year

So far I have done:
 - replaced rear and front brake fluid (it was pretty old looking)
 - replaced clutch fluid(also pretty dark looking)
 - replaced rear diff fluid. 
 - replaced the spark plugs (old ones were kinda fouled

Need to do:
 - rear brake pads look pretty worn. 
 - assuming fronts are worn as well. 
 - oil & filter change
 - check valve clearances
 - check/change air filter


Future:
 - rear tire probably could use replacing soon
 - carb cleaning?
 - thinking about different saddlebags.  The ones on there are leatherish with chrome studs.  PO said they were OEM but I don't know. 
 - the plastic on the alternator cover is broken and the chrome is like blistering. 

My questions:
 - I am aware of the hydrolock issue and I am getting in the habit of turning the petcock off.  At first I thought that there was a problem with the fuel petcock because the bike ran for a really long time on OFF.  I have since realized that I just didn't wait long enough and it will die after like a mile of riding on off.  I ordered a petcock rebuild kit but I don't know if it is worth the time to rebuild it if it seems to be working.  Is there a way to know?  Should I just do it to be safe. 
 - Any thoughts about the Shinko SE890 tires?  They are like $116/131 front/rear on bikebandit. 
 - What about these brake pads?  "Non-Metallic Organic NAO Brake Pads by KMG Brakes" on amazon.  They are cheap at $22 for all front and rear.  Other than wearing out fast is there any thing I should know?
  - I have a k&n oil filter and rotella T5 5w40 synthetic "diesel" oil that I use in my other wet clutch bikes.  Any reason not to use this?
 - Is there a good source for a  replacement alternator cover? 
 - should the fouled spark plugs a concern?  Should I do something to check that it is not running too rich?
 - The idle sounds a little bit rough.  The bike starts but it is not immediate (I have to hold the button for like a second)  Oddly it seems to start better without choke.  If I choke it too far it won't start or will die if already started.  The choke is kinda hard to pull down but I understand this is common.  I put some seafoam in the tank (1 can into full tank)  I am going to run some chevron tecron stuff next.  Any thoughts?  Think a carb cleaning is in order? 
 - Any thoughts on the K&N re-usable air filters for this bike?  Is it a pain to wash and re-oil them?  Should I stick with the replacement ones?
 - Anyone have a recommendation for some hard bags that lock?  The bike is gloss black so that would probably be best.  I don't want to spend top dollar but I want something decent. 
 - Do I need to have the bike on a lift to change the oil?  The service manual says to put the bike straight up.  I have a lift but I don't have the adapter or wood thing to be able to support it.  Think I can just hold it straight to get the last of the oil out?

I know that this is alot and some has probably been addressed before on the forum.  Thanks in advance for any help for a new Valk owner! 

[Tfrank59]

 I can give you a little feedback I know others will chime in as well. You don't need to put the bike on the lift to change oil so that's nice. Might want to pick up a filter before doing the job so that you can change that as well.  I personally won't buy another Shinko tire but that's just me -- they vibrate because the tread pattern sort of sucks in my opinion. Go with something Like a Meztler or Dunlop. When you do change the rear tire you will need to have that lift adapter that is specked out on shop talk. You're gonna want to check out the shop talk pages for everything maintenance wise even oil changes,  changing brake pads, rear wheel service etc.   I don't think the organic brake pads are any good, stopping power sucks, go with something like the sintered metal ones.   I am not sure on the carb cleaning maybe just what you're doing running the seafoam or  techron through it for a couple of tankfuls and see what that does. might want to determine if your bike has been desmogged because if it has that's usually a good thing if it hasn't been Desmogged that might be why it's running or idling rough because it could be pulling in a some small vacuum leak.  With 34K I wouldn't worry about the valve clearances again that's just me. I don't do a K&N air filter on this bike even though they're great, I just go with the OEM paper air filter.

[hubcapsc]

* don't mess with the carburetors unless you have to... I've never messed with my
97's carburetors, I rode it today...

* locking OEM hard bags are good for travel, and people like these too:
https://www.tsukayu.com/jumbo%20strong%20_valkyrie.html

* chrome alternator covers used to be cheap  

* numerous people on here who are hard riders like Shinko tires...

* OEM brake pads

* I like the OEM air filters

-Mike

[old2soon]

      O E M brake pads. O E M air filter. Run a half can of B-12 chem tool thru yer new to you Valkyrie. Stay at or below 2000 R P M for a lot of miles-30-40 or so. I've had Shinkos before still have one up front i are D/S rear. I'm on an I/S soooooo I already gotz hard bags and a trunk.  More and more of our bling is becoming/has become unobtanium. If the broken piece is there for the alt cover get the plastic "chrome" off of said cover and paint it to match or contrast with yer bike. You could ask fer someone to sell you one and if someone has a new alt cover and they wanna sell it be prepared to dig Very DEEP into yer pockets to pay fer it!  Check our classifieds fer some of yer needs and wants and even if the ad is old P M the selling party and see IF they still have said item for sale unless already marked sold. I personally have been running Mobil 1 15-50 full synthetic with cursed good results. NO/NONE/NADA engine oil with ANY kind of energy saving crap. Our wet clutches slip with that stuff. Pull the bolts out of the top shock mounts. If NOT centered R&R shock bushings. By a manual or look up and down load i believe a P D F. Let's see-i covered oil and tires!  B T W-Welcome to our sand box. Add yer location to yer avatar. Icy cold adult beverages and cursed good BBQ will git ya lotsa help!  RIDE SAFE.

[Bighead]

Dont worry with the valve clearances. 120k and never been out of spec (others may disagree). The biggest thing uou need to do is check the drive splines,and make sure they are greased properly. And then ride it like ya stole it.

[Willow]

Bags.  If they are really leather they probably are OEM add ons.  If they are plastic but look like leather they are likely Leatherlyke bags and not OEM.

Honda didn't make a non-touring Valkyrie.     Some tour more conveniently but they all are good for touring.

If you do upgrade the bags Valkyrie OEM are best.  Tourer or Interstate will fit fine.  It should cost you about $1,000 plus whatever paint you need.

[big_adv_rider]

Thanks.  I like those bags.  Not sure if I would get the "strong" or "strong jumbo" or "strong easy."  

One of the first trips I plan to do is go down the great river road through memphis, st. louis and then K.C. on the way back.  Plenty of good BBQ opportunity!

[Fazer]

I'm surprised no one emphasized the importance of the final drive maintenance.  (Unless I missed it.)  Check it out on shop talk, even if you don't need a new rear at this time, I would do the rear end just to be sure.  Of course if you are changing the rear, now's the time.  It would be on the top of my list of things to do.

Basically agree with most of what has been suggested above--OEM oil filter, brake pads and air cleaner.  I had a K&N when purchased, but changed to OEM. 

Desmog is a good thing to do and there are easy and not so easy ways.  Check the forum. 

If bike is running well, not missing at higher rpm, I would not mess the carbs.  Maybe someone close to you could check the sync, which does not require disassembly, just the Digisync tool.

Choke does not engage till about the last 1/2" of travel.  Seems like all Valks need a stronger push to get the enricher fully engaged.

[..]

Alternator cover is chrome plastic. They used to be relatively inexpensive but now are $$$$$.

Sand it down and spray it gloss black? Unless you are a chromeaholic.

[Fazer]

Add your location to your profile and you may find there is a lot of local help available.

[Gryphon Rider]

My questions:
 - I am aware of the hydrolock issue and I am getting in the habit of turning the petcock off.  At first I thought that there was a problem with the fuel petcock because the bike ran for a really long time on OFF.  I have since realized that I just didn't wait long enough and it will die after like a mile of riding on off.  I ordered a petcock rebuild kit but I don't know if it is worth the time to rebuild it if it seems to be working.  Is there a way to know?  Should I just do it to be safe.

If the fuel valve isn't giving you problems, leave it alone.  If it gives you symptoms, i.e. gas dripping out of the vent hole on the bottom or it seems like it is running out of gas when you have lots of fuel, and you haven't had the tank off recently (you can kink and pinch the vent hose if you aren't paying attention to it), then do the rebuild with the cover set kit.

- What about these brake pads?  "Non-Metallic Organic NAO Brake Pads by KMG Brakes" on amazon.  They are cheap at $22 for all front and rear.  Other than wearing out fast is there any thing I should know?

see this recent thread: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,107235.0.html.  OEM pads, although probably the most expensive, are a sure thing.

- I have a k&n oil filter and rotella T5 5w40 synthetic "diesel" oil that I use in my other wet clutch bikes.  Any reason not to use this?

Many here use Rotella.  I have stuck to Mobil 1 15W-50.

- Do I need to have the bike on a lift to change the oil?  The service manual says to put the bike straight up.  I have a lift but I don't have the adapter or wood thing to be able to support it.  Think I can just hold it straight to get the last of the oil out?

I remove the drain plug and filter when it's on the side stand, then lean it to the right by putting a stool under the crash guard with a short piece of 2x4 between the stool and the crash guard (as a spacer so it doesn't lean too far).  Use whatever sturdy thing you have in your garage to do the same.  You're not putting a lot of weight on it, perhaps 30 pounds.  Lean it back onto the side stand before reinstalling the plug and new filter.

[big_adv_rider]

Thanks gryphon for the tips including the stool under the side stand.  I think that will give me just enough room to get my drain pan under there.  I was able to get it under the coolant drain plug and am giving the radiator a good flushing as well. 

[Gryphon Rider]

Thanks gryphon for the tips including the stool under the side stand.  I think that will give me just enough room to get my drain pan under there.  I was able to get it under the coolant drain plug and am giving the radiator a good flushing as well. 

Just to be clear, the stool goes under the right engine guard so you can lean the bike to the right, not under the side stand.

[big_adv_rider]

Gotcha.  I couldn't find something the right height for the engine guard so I ended up just holding it upright and side to side for awhile to let it drain out. 

I think that the oil was overfilled by the P.O. because it was way over the top mark on the dip stick.  It was past the top of the flat part.  This was after resting it, not screwing it down.  I see two marks, one at the very tip of the dip stick, and one in the middle of the flat part.  I ran it for a bit and topped off as exact to the top mark(middle of flat part) as I could get because I want to check periodically to see if it is using/losing any oil. 

Now have everything done fluids wise.  Probably do brake pads soon and wait on the valves/carbs. 

[big_adv_rider]

Add your location to your profile and you may find there is a lot of local help available.

Done.  I am in Minnesota near Minneapolis. 

[Cracker Jack]

Gotcha.  I couldn't find something the right height for the engine guard so I ended up just holding it upright and side to side for awhile to let it drain out. 

I think that the oil was overfilled by the P.O. because it was way over the top mark on the dip stick.  It was past the top of the flat part.  This was after resting it, not screwing it down.  I see two marks, one at the very tip of the dip stick, and one in the middle of the flat part.  I ran it for a bit and topped off as exact to the top mark(middle of flat part) as I could get because I want to check periodically to see if it is using/losing any oil. 

Now have everything done fluids wise.  Probably do brake pads soon and wait on the valves/carbs. 

I use an 8 inch concrete block which is just the right height for this with some folded newspapers on top for scratch prevention. The block is substantial enough to keep from sliding around.

[F6Dave]

It sounds like you have a pretty good handle on what needs to be done.  Here are a few thoughts:

• Stick with the Honda brake pads.  I've had mixed success with 2 other brands but decided it wasn't worth the trouble experimenting when the OEM pads work so well.  Honda Direct Line is running a brake pad sale with a full set for about $103.  That's a pretty good deal even with their shipping charges which tend to be high.
• Stay with the Honda air filter, too.  A K&N costs more, is a pain to clean and oil, and doesn't filter as well.  And contrary to the myth, a K&N clogs up faster.
• As has been said, I'd only mess with the carbs as a last resort.  You might want to add a dose of Techron to a full tank of gas.  And, make sure the vacuum hoses aren't cracked or missing.
• If your rear tire is near the end, I'd order a new one and do the shaft and final drive maintenance when you replace the tire.  I like Avon the best.  The rear end isn't as flimsy as some might have you believe, but more damage has been caused by improper maintenance then neglect.  If you pull the final drive from the shaft housing, the bolt retightening sequence is absolutely critical.  Most drive spline damage is caused by tightening the bolts out of sequence.  The lubrication of the pinion cup is also important.
• Automotive oil filters work as well or better than the Honda filters, and usually cost less.
• I'd pull the plugs again in a few thousand miles for another look.

[F6Dave]

One more thought.  Attic Rat (a board sponsor) had a nice set of Honda bags for sale at Inzane.  It might be worth giving him a call.  The Honda bags are spacious, look good, and are well made.

[Factor]

Choke does not engage till about the last 1/2" of travel.  Seems like all Valks need a stronger push to get the enricher fully engaged.

This is not entirely true. The choke plate begins to move almost immediately (if correctly setup). The last 1/2" is where it begins to bump up the idle - and that is something folks notice. You can access the cable mechanisms under the plate that runs along the top of each carb rack. Take that off and see how it operates. You may need to adjust the end nut or lube the cable sheaths.

Synching the carbs is pretty easy once you have a synch tool (of any sort, even home built). It's not an exact measurement as it's a pretty bumpy, dynamic thing to adjust. Just getting it into the ballpark is really all you can ask for. It may also change as the rpms increase. As such, some folks synch their carbs at cruising rpms (2,500 - 3,000), others at idle as the manual suggests.

Adjusting the valves is even easier and I'd suggest you take at least one look at them (I set mine once a year and at least 2-3 need an adjustment as they tighten over time).

When trying to get an even running engine there's a sequence you ought to follow so you're not chasing your tail.
1) run chems through your gas system
2) adjust the valves
3) synch the carbs
4) check compression, valve leakdown
5) dig into carbs

Hopefully you won't have to get into #4 & 5.

Replace your brake fluids with DOT 4 or 5 (3 can boil under heavy use).

Finally - the final drive. As others have said, read up on servicing, pull it apart, replace o-rings and DON'T forget to reinstall the nylon bushing.

[Jersey]

Welcome to the group!  Agree with all before on the OEM parts.  They have shown to give the best performance all around. 

On the lift stand topic, I installed this many years ago and regularly use it with a motorcycle lift I bought from Harbour Freight.  It's great to be able to lift the bike whenever I'm doing anything.

https://www.ebay.com/i/172256920900?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=172256920900&targetid=484372159639&device=c&adtype=pla&googleloc=9007731&poi=&campaignid=1498383093&adgroupid=60666402667&rlsatarget=pla-484372159639&abcId=1139446&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAjwx_boBRA9EiwA4kIELoCO9SpYm6fq26VJE5KPPl0kp6oaRGM2PCp0jBrHETJZqZdZ1goKgRoC2xgQAvD_BwE

With low miles you probably aren't noticing too much looseness in the shifter.  However, you may want to consider researching this and getting a Jersey Shifter Bracket to avoid future problems.  Hopefully others will weigh in on this suggestion.

Again, welcome to the group!
Jersey

[PatrickDoss]

Replace your brake fluids with DOT 4 or 5 (3 can boil under heavy use).

He said he already replaced the brake/clutch fluids.  It's important to note, though, that DOT 5 is not compatible with DOT 3/4 brake systems.  Do not use DOT 5!  The newer DOT 5.1 stuff may be compatible, but it's easier to just use the DOT 4 the Valk system calls for.

[bigdanIA]

i'd stick with the stock air filter and ditch the k & n oil filter as well, the mobile 1 oil filters can be had at walmart and are a much better oil filter.

over on the triumph forum there is a really good write up on motorcycle oil filters, i spend a little time over there as i've got a 955i.  i also have an '11 klr, love that thing!  it's been a lot of fun    do you spend any time over at klr650.net?  great group of guys over there...

[Gryphon Rider]

Replace your brake fluids with DOT 4 or 5 (3 can boil under heavy use).

He said he already replaced the brake/clutch fluids.  It's important to note, though, that DOT 5 is not compatible with DOT 3/4 brake systems.  Do not use DOT 5!  The newer DOT 5.1 stuff may be compatible, but it's easier to just use the DOT 4 the Valk system calls for.

Ditto.  DO NOT PUT DOT 5 BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR SYSTEM!  mixing DOT 5 with Dot 3,4, or 5.1 will cause the fluid to clump somewhere in your system.  DOT 3, 4, & 5.1 are polyglycol-ether based, while DOT 5 is silicone based.



Note:  Wet boiling point is when there is 3.7% water present in the brake fluid.

[Willow]

Different strokes as they say.  Everyone has an opinion.

I run  K&N air filters on my Valkyries, one of which has over 180,000 miles.

I'm pretty sure Honda doesn't manufacture oil filters and I doubt their manufacture of air filters as well.  If you change oil regularly there are a number of filters that are acceptable. 

I use Rotella but Mobil 1 synthetic is also good.

[Bighead]

I'm surprised no one emphasized the importance of the final drive maintenance.  (Unless I missed it.)  Check it out on shop talk, even if you don't need a new rear at this time, I would do the rear end just to be sure.  Of course if you are changing the rear, now's the time.  It would be on the top of my list of things to do.

Basically agree with most of what has been suggested above--OEM oil filter, brake pads and air cleaner.  I had a K&N when purchased, but changed to OEM. 

Desmog is a good thing to do and there are easy and not so easy ways.  Check the forum. 

If bike is running well, not missing at higher rpm, I would not mess the carbs.  Maybe someone close to you could check the sync, which does not require disassembly, just the Digisync tool.

Choke does not engage till about the last 1/2" of travel.  Seems like all Valks need a stronger push to get the enricher fully engaged.

yes you missed it.
As far as the alt cover. I have a spare or three if you are interested.

[big_adv_rider]

I used dot 4 brake fluid.  I already had bought a k&n oil filter for it so I used that.  I use them for my other bikes.  I really have no idea if they are any better but I like the 17mm bolt on the front. 

I just got the air filters today (Honda OEM).  The old air filter was really dirty so that may explain the spark plug fouling.  It has been a PITA. 

After changing it my bike was spilling gas all over the place.  After taking everything apart again and removing the air box I guess in removing the fuel line from the tank I inadvertenly disconnected the line from one side of the T that goes to the carbs.  I bought some better fuel line and hose clamps and am in the process of putting it back together again. 

I am going to make the fuel line longer going to the tank to make it easier to remove next time.  In examining my carbs I guess that my choke isn't actually engaged until near the end of the travel like was mentioned. 

[big_adv_rider]

i'd stick with the stock air filter and ditch the k & n oil filter as well, the mobile 1 oil filters can be had at walmart and are a much better oil filter.

over on the triumph forum there is a really good write up on motorcycle oil filters, i spend a little time over there as i've got a 955i.  i also have an '11 klr, love that thing!  it's been a lot of fun    do you spend any time over at klr650.net?  great group of guys over there...

I might try the mobil 1 next time. Does it have the 17mm bolt on the front?  I have been on klr650.net and it was very useful when I was getting my klr650 all kitted out for my alaska trip.  Unfortunatly my account doesn't work anymore.  I emailed the webmaster but never got a response.  I haven't gotten around to following up. 

[The emperor has no clothes]

I used dot 4 brake fluid.  I already had bought a k&n oil filter for it so I used that.  I use them for my other bikes.  I really have no idea if they are any better but I like the 17mm bolt on the front. 

I just got the air filters today (Honda OEM).  The old air filter was really dirty so that may explain the spark plug fouling.  It has been a PITA. 

After changing it my bike was spilling gas all over the place.  After taking everything apart again and removing the air box I guess in removing the fuel line from the tank I inadvertenly disconnected the line from one side of the T that goes to the carbs.  I bought some better fuel line and hose clamps and am in the process of putting it back together again. 

I am going to make the fuel line longer going to the tank to make it easier to remove next time.  In examining my carbs I guess that my choke isn't actually engaged until near the end of the travel like was mentioned. 

I think you would be making a mistake to lengthen the fuel line. It may be fine at first, but over time as the engine heats the line it will kink and stop or slow the flow.

[Bighead]

I used dot 4 brake fluid.  I already had bought a k&n oil filter for it so I used that.  I use them for my other bikes.  I really have no idea if they are any better but I like the 17mm bolt on the front. 

I just got the air filters today (Honda OEM).  The old air filter was really dirty so that may explain the spark plug fouling.  It has been a PITA. 

After changing it my bike was spilling gas all over the place.  After taking everything apart again and removing the air box I guess in removing the fuel line from the tank I inadvertenly disconnected the line from one side of the T that goes to the carbs.  I bought some better fuel line and hose clamps and am in the process of putting it back together again. 

I am going to make the fuel line longer going to the tank to make it easier to remove next time.  In examining my carbs I guess that my choke isn't actually engaged until near the end of the travel like was mentioned. 

I think you would be making a mistake to lengthen the fuel line. It may be fine at first, but over time as the engine heats the line it will kink and stop or slow the flow.

+1 mother Honda git it right. Lenghten it if you wanna ant but you WILL habe problems.

[F6Dave]

K&N oil filters used to be made by Champion Labs and were reported to be pretty good.  But Champion and Fram merged several years ago and I've read K&N has since outsourced to Mexico, Korea, and more recently China.  They may still be an OK filter but there are better choices available for much less than the premium prices K&N charges.

K&N air filters are a different story.  It's more than an opinion that they let more dirt into your engine.  There are reports around the internet of elevated silicon levels showing up in used oil analyses of K&N equipped engines, indicating sand entering through the filter.  If you want some detailed documentation just read Arlen Spicer's extensive ISO 5011 test of air filters at: http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm

I used a K&N air filter and the past, as well as another oiled fabric filter.  I stayed away from them on my Valkyries because I didn't like the cleaning/drying/oiling routine.  But when I bought an F6B I considered trying K&N again, because the GL1800 filter takes several hours to change and I believed the hype that a K&N would last longer.  Then I did some research and found plenty of evidence, including the test linked above, showing that they don't filter as well and clog up quicker.

[Jess from VA]

A lengthened gas line is (or will be) trouble. The trick to using the stock short one, is a 2 X 4 on end under the rear of the tank; then you can use both hands to work (and an LED headband light will come in handy too).

The K & N when freshly cleaned and oiled is as good as you need.  The problem is after a year (or two) of drying out under the tank, it may no longer be doing it's job... but an OE filter will be. 

[big_adv_rider]

I used dot 4 brake fluid.  I already had bought a k&n oil filter for it so I used that.  I use them for my other bikes.  I really have no idea if they are any better but I like the 17mm bolt on the front. 

I just got the air filters today (Honda OEM).  The old air filter was really dirty so that may explain the spark plug fouling.  It has been a PITA. 

After changing it my bike was spilling gas all over the place.  After taking everything apart again and removing the air box I guess in removing the fuel line from the tank I inadvertenly disconnected the line from one side of the T that goes to the carbs.  I bought some better fuel line and hose clamps and am in the process of putting it back together again. 

I am going to make the fuel line longer going to the tank to make it easier to remove next time.  In examining my carbs I guess that my choke isn't actually engaged until near the end of the travel like was mentioned. 

I think you would be making a mistake to lengthen the fuel line. It may be fine at first, but over time as the engine heats the line it will kink and stop or slow the flow.

+1 mother Honda git it right. Lenghten it if you wanna ant but you WILL habe problems.

The fuel line I got ended up being a little smaller inner dimension and after seeing the posts here I decided not to use it.  I ended up using the stock fuel lines.  I did replace a bunch of the flimsy hose clamps with the screw type.  It is much sturdier now and I don't think I am going to pull them lose again.  It was such a PITA to get that airbox re-installed.  I hope to never do that again. 

I probably will need to take the tank off to change the filter again.  I ended up using a long needlenose to get the hoses back on. 

Bike now seems to start easier with the new air filter and the idle is a bit less "wimpy". 

[Deerslayer]

K&N oil filters used to be made by Champion Labs and were reported to be pretty good.  But Champion and Fram merged several years ago and I've read K&N has since outsourced to Mexico, Korea, and more recently China.  They may still be an OK filter but there are better choices available for much less than the premium prices K&N charges.

stick with a Honda oil filter
a buddy of mine ran K&N oil filters.

two of his so called upgraded K&N's ruptured & it sucked the paper filter into the engine.

[big_adv_rider]

Was out riding today and it started to run pretty rough after a few miles.  I was at about 100 miles on the trip counter since last filling up so it had gas but it was not full.  I filled it up with gas and soon afterwards it started running better.  I am going to use the chevron tecron stuff in this next tank. 

I checked the vacuum on the carbs.  I only had one gauge and it doesn't have a valve so I kink the hose to get the needle to stabilize.  They were all pretty close.  Within one cm-hg.  I tweaked them a bit and now they are all about 8cm-hg.  I am going to get additional gauges and valves and check again. 

Idle was a little slow.  It is hard to tell on the tach but it was maybe 800-900.  I upped the idle speed to about 1000 as the book says. 

At what point is reserve nescessary?  How many gallons? 

There is a little bit of a ticking sound that comes and goes.  Any idea what that is?  Could it be the valves?  I am going to check the clearances next. 

[Jess from VA]

Idle is supposed to be 900, but I like closer to 1K.   It's not a big deal, and I spend little time idling, but at 8-900 it's not clear the bike is charging (much).

Reserve is 1.1 gallons.  And most Valks don't just run out of gas all at once, they kind of imperceptively begin to loose power for a while (though it is speeded up a bit at freeway gas use).  Once you feel it, hitting the throttle hard will tell you; that forces it to stumble.

The valves are more of a rattle (like lugging the bike around 2K, then throttling up without downshifting).  Ticking is usually the pair valves. 

I think the best quick carb cleaner is Berryman's B12.   
   

[F6Dave]

Sounds like you're getting there!  The symptoms you describe sound like you were getting close to reserve.  Like Jess said, these bikes don't run out suddenly, they give you hints for several miles.  It might have something to do with six carbs holding a lot of fuel in the bowls.  Some Techron in the next tank couldn't hurt.  A bottle has enough for several treatments.

I wouldn't worry about a little valve ticking either.  You're always going to hear some, especially when cold.

[Gryphon Rider]

I can see going from a full tank to needing reserve in 100 miles if you have been doing lots of idling and stop-and-go riding, or on the highway at high speeds and/or fighting a stiff headwind, but my experience is more like 125-145 miles to reserve.

If you seem to be running out of gas sooner that you should, but it recovers for a mile or so when you pull over and let it idle for 30 seconds or a minute, there are two usual suspects:
1. Your fuel tank vent line may be blocked.  Often this is caused when the vent hose is accidentally kinked when installing the fuel tank.  If you use something to prevent the gas cap from sealing, like an electrical tie-wrap held in place while you close the cap on it, or using a spare key to keep the cap open while (carefully) riding, and the problem disappears, you know the vent line is the issue.
2. The vacuum-operated side of the fuel valve may not be working, either due to a leak in the vacuum hose or failure of the vacuum diaphragm within the valve.  See my post, http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,37577.0.html.

[F6Dave]

I can see going from a full tank to needing reserve in 100 miles if you have been doing lots of idling and stop-and-go riding, or on the highway at high speeds and/or fighting a stiff headwind, but my experience is more like 125-145 miles to reserve.

I usually get way more than 100 miles to a tank, too.  I was thinking that since the bike may have been sitting for some time and he's doing a lot of catch up maintenance, he could be taking lots of test rides to evaluate his work.  When I do that mileage drops like a rock.

[Jess from VA]

Plus, whenever someone starts talking about getting so many miles on a tank, I always wonder if they really filled the tank to the top last time, or just pulled it out after the first auto shutoff. 

That can easily be another half gallon of gas (and certainly throw off mileage calculations).

Whether you slow feed and fill to the neck every time (like I do), you will not get a reliable reading or average, if your fill-ups aren't consistent.

[big_adv_rider]

I can see going from a full tank to needing reserve in 100 miles if you have been doing lots of idling and stop-and-go riding, or on the highway at high speeds and/or fighting a stiff headwind, but my experience is more like 125-145 miles to reserve.

I usually get way more than 100 miles to a tank, too.  I was thinking that since the bike may have been sitting for some time and he's doing a lot of catch up maintenance, he could be taking lots of test rides to evaluate his work.  When I do that mileage drops like a rock.

Yeah I guess I was idling it alot.  I also realied that I had a clamp on the vacuum line from cylinder 6 to the petcock from when I was syncing the carbs.  oops. 

UPDATE I also checked the valves.  They were all a little tight, but not way off.  It might be just the way I measure with the feeler gauges.  I adjusted them all and checked them twice.  The the ticking is much louder.  I don't know exactly if that is normal.  It kinda sounds like a stock ticker machine or a sewing machine.