New to Valkyrie’s and a clutch problem

[Sleepy]

If y’all could, please be patient with me. I’ve never been on a forum before and this is all new to me. Ok, my story is I’m 49 and bought my first bike. It’s a 97 GL1500 and I love it. It’s just got clutch issues. I’m the 3rd owner, it’s never had a new clutch and the fluid was the color of very strong tea until yesterday. I changed it praying that it would fix the slippage, but it didn’t. I’m guessing that I’m gonna have to change clutches but I was really hoping that y’all could give me a cheaper alternative to that. Thanks

[Deerslayer]

How many miles you got on that 97?

[Sleepy]

Almost 72,000

[bikerboy1951]

I am guessing that the pressure relief hole is plugged causing the slipping. In the clutch reservoir there is a small duckbill (for lack of a better word) on the bottom.  It pulls out revealing a small hole. I am betting that that hole is plugged.  Clean out that hole (there is nothing you will damage by cleaning it out) and I bet you will be back riding with no more clutch issues.

Brad

[Bighead]

Also as suggested chexk the bushing in the clutch lever and make sure your oil has Zero/Zilch/Nada (stole that line from O2S )friction modifiers. The clutches will last waaaaay longer than 72k.  

[Sleepy]

Thanks guys. I’m just guessing, but I’m thinkin that pressure relief valve is a very small hole just to the headlight side if the supply hole in there. If that’s the one your talkin about , when I changed the fluid, there were air bubbles coming back out of it. I finally got ALL the air bubbles out and the the clutch lever actually had more pressure on it than when I bought the bike.

Now, I’ve seen other posts that talk about a “bushing” . Where exactly is this bushing located on the bike and how do I go about changing it?

And guys, thanks. And I mean it. I greatly appreciate all the advice.

[hubcapsc]

There's a bushing in your clutch lever you'll see if you remove the lever.

After a while it gets wallowed out.

A worn-out bushing makes your lever floppy and sometimes prevents
your motorcycle from knowing - electrically - whether the clutch is in or out.

I don't think it can make your clutch slip...

-Mike  "22885-mb0-006"

[Grandpot]

Start with the advice Bighead stated.   72,000 miles is too early to have mechanical clutch issues.  If the fluid looked like tea, then it most likely was fresh oil.  Remember, the motor oil and transmission oil are the same.  Make sure the oil in the bike is designed for motorcycles.  Try Valvoline 4Stroke MC oil. Keep it simple until you are sure you have a serious problem.

[Gryphon Rider]

If y’all could, please be patient with me. I’ve never been on a forum before and this is all new to me. Ok, my story is I’m 49 and bought my first bike. It’s a 97 GL1500 and I love it. It’s just got clutch issues. I’m the 3rd owner, it’s never had a new clutch and the fluid was the color of very strong tea until yesterday. I changed it praying that it would fix the slippage, but it didn’t. I’m guessing that I’m gonna have to change clutches but I was really hoping that y’all could give me a cheaper alternative to that. Thanks

By slippage you mean that while riding with the clutch engaged and the bike in gear, when you twist the throttle the engine will speed up without a directly proportional increase in speed?  As Bighead said, If the previous owner used a motor oil labelled "energy conserving" within the circular API medallion on the back of the bottle, the friction modifiers can cause slippage, as can pressure relief issues per bikerboy1951's comment, as can a worn (at 72,000 miles, abused) clutch.

Also as suggested chexk the bushing in the clutch lever...

There are no clutch lever bushings that will cause the clutch to slip.  Problems with the clutch lever might cause difficulty disengaging the clutch, or problems with the bike knowing the clutch lever is pulled in, but will not cause slipping.  The bushing that hubcapsc is talking about is part of the lever, cannot be purchased separately, and requires buying a new lever to fix.  Levers are not expensive.

[Chrisj CMA]

I see you did change the oil but what oil was in there, and what oil is in there now?

[RainMaker]

Welcome to the world of Valkyries.  Maybe you can describe when the slipping happens - all gears, only 1st, hard acceleration, etc.  It will assist in diagnosis and suggestions.  Might be the oil, might be a stripped pinion gear, worn splines - lots of possibilities but I think the clutch isn't the problem as the problems there are usually related to rivet failure and inability to disengage the clutch. Even the dealers service guys don't know - they convinced one of our most esteemed members his clutch was bad when it was just a ujoint failure.  Make a video of the slipping.  And post where you are so maybe one of us veteran Valk pilots can see what's going on.  There are folks in the Austin area.

[ridingron]

Not sure which Valk you have but I think the clutch  master cylinders are the same.  Look at part number #2 at this site:


https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/506cb555f870023420a4163d/clutch-master-cylinder

Item #1, piston push rod, fit into a small indention in part #2, brass bushing. The small indention wears into a deeper hole reducing the clutch piston stroke length.

The photo relates to the lever pivot bushing wearing.

[ridingron]

Is the clutch engagement/disengagement only very close to the grip? Bleed the clutch thoroughly.

[Bighead]

Also as suggested chexk the bushing in the clutch lever...

There are no clutch lever bushings that will cause the clutch to slip.  Problems with the clutch lever might cause difficulty disengaging the clutch, or problems with the bike knowing the clutch lever is pulled in, but will not cause slipping.  The bushing that hubcapsc is talking about is part of the lever, cannot be purchased separately, and requires buying a new lever to fix.  Levers are not expensive.

Yep it can happen. Matter of fact I had it happen. I put on a set of aftermarket chrome levers and no problems for the first couple hundred miles then while riding in 3rd gear I roed
On the throttle and no pull but rpm’s jumped way up.  Didnt do it as long as I was easy with the throttle. Next gas stop I took it apart and it had a small burr in the bushing and it made the lever stick. I took a file and deburred put a little lube on it and never happened again and that was some 80k miles ago.

[Sleepy]

Ok guys, thanks. I’ve been very busy last few days with3 yr old birthdays and helping brother in law move. Sorry I haven’t been here to check out the forum. Been exhausted at the end of the days.

Ok, it only slips when giving heavy throttle.

It had DOT 3/4 brake fluid in it. That stuff is clear when new and it was color of strong tea when I changed it. Is now mostly clear as the last red Solo cup of fluid I pulled out of it was about 2 shades darker than clear. A HUGE improvement. It was a 32 ounce bottle. Probably gonna do that again to make sure and maybe a third time since one of you (sorry I can’t remember which one) said I should change it a few times to totally flush the discs.

And yes, the handle is VERY sloppy. I have looked at and tried to tighten it up but can’t find a way to. Now I know why.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Ok guys, thanks. I’ve been very busy last few days with3 yr old birthdays and helping brother in law move. Sorry I haven’t been here to check out the forum. Been exhausted at the end of the days.

Ok, it only slips when giving heavy throttle.

It had DOT 3/4 brake fluid in it. That stuff is clear when new and it was color of strong tea when I changed it. Is now mostly clear as the last red Solo cup of fluid I pulled out of it was about 2 shades darker than clear. A HUGE improvement. It was a 32 ounce bottle. Probably gonna do that again to make sure and maybe a third time since one of you (sorry I can’t remember which one) said I should change it a few times to totally flush the discs.

And yes, the handle is VERY sloppy. I have looked at and tried to tighten it up but can’t find a way to. Now I know why.

It is the motor oil that they were referring to about flushing out the clutch discs.

[Sleepy]

How would the motor oil flush out the discs?

[The emperor has no clothes]

How would the motor oil flush out the discs?

If a previous owner or you used oil that had friction modifiers in it, that oil would be absorbed by the fiber clutch discs. I think what they are meaning, is if this is the case it may take a few oil changes to alleviate that.

[Sleepy]

Holy moly, I did not know that the engine and tranny fluid are a shared fluid in this bike and that the clutch pack was in there too. Thanks guys, I’ll change the engine oil a few times now to try to get the discs cleaned. Thanks. You guys are a God send.

[9Ball]

It almost sounds like the wrong oil was added at the last oil change.

Synthetic 4T oil is expensive but it can remove all doubt regarding clutch issues.  If it was my bike I would use cheaper Honda motorcycle oil for the next change, then go to full syn after that.  Oil, even expensive oil, is a minor cost compared to the initial investment in the bike or replacing the clutch.

Good luck...

[hubcapsc]

I did not know that the engine and tranny fluid are a shared fluid in this bike

Aren't most bikes this way? ... I remember a separate oil tank on my Harley...
they have separate engine oil and clutch oil?

All my japanese dirt bikes had "shared" oil...

-Mike

[Chrisj CMA]

Holy moly, I did not know that the engine and tranny fluid are a shared fluid in this bike and that the clutch pack was in there too. Thanks guys, I’ll change the engine oil a few times now to try to get the discs cleaned. Thanks. You guys are a God send.

You say that like it’s unusual. Almost all bikes work this way. I never did see where you answered what kind of oil has been used.

[Grandpot]

I did not know that the engine and tranny fluid are a shared fluid in this bike

Aren't most bikes this way? ... I remember a separate oil tank on my Harley...
they have separate engine oil and clutch oil?

All my japanese dirt bikes had "shared" oil...

-Mike

Some bikes have 3 oils.  Engine, Primary case, and Transmission oil.  Good grief!

[Sleepy]

This is my first bike guys. Previous owner had it changed by someone else before he sold it to me. I don’t know what kind of oil is in it.

[The emperor has no clothes]

This is my first bike guys. Previous owner had it changed by someone else before he sold it to me. I don’t know what kind of oil is in it.

Odds probably are that the incorrect kind of oil caused this issue. At least everyone that I’ve read about having it, was due to the wrong oil. Were it me, I would put in some Dino oil that doesn’t have the friction modifiers, run it for a couple hundred miles and repeat. Then switch to the more expensive synthetic oil. I would also avoid getting hard on the throttle and causing it to slip while doing this. Checking that your clutch lever is not binding up would also be prudent.  This is your first motorcycle ? Congratulations  if motorcycle riding courses are offered in your area, it would be an excellent idea. There are many people on the roads who seem intent on injuring us. Having as much info, knowledge, and experience is helpful to your survival.
  I’m sure most of us here enjoy having new Valkyrie riders. Any questions, just ask away 

[Sleepy]

Thanks, I took the course in Abilene before I went to El Paso and trailered it back. Been goin on short 50-100 mile runs just to get used to it.

And was planning on doing that very thing with changing the oil.

Guys, y’all have no idea how much I appreciate your help. Anyone ever get to Brady, please don’t hesitate to send a message.

I’ll let y’all know how it turns out after the third oil change.

[longrider]

Sleepy

You are fortunate that you have many valkyrie experts at your disposal.  I personaly have and will continue to service my two valks.  I purchased my first in 98 and  miled up the first two pretty well and have 60k on this one in three years.  They have NEVER seen the dealer not even for tire changes.  Trust yourself to maintain your valk with the knowledge from this board

Welcome

Warren

[Ramie]

My brother in-law screwed up his 4 wheeler using the wrong oil.  He changed to the correct oil then added some Seafoam for engine.  Did that a couple of times with more oil changes and it helped clean the clutch plates.

[jag39]

My brother in-law screwed up his 4 wheeler using the wrong oil.  He changed to the correct oil then added some Seafoam for engine.  Did that a couple of times with more oil changes and it helped clean the clutch plates.

Did I understand that he added the seafoam to the engine oil? Just curious, since I am having a slipping clutch problem also. Just bought a 2000 Valk about a month ago, 12,000 miles, been sitting for a long time. I changed out the oil, the clutch slave unit, a new braided clutch line, and still slipping under power. Tomorrow I'm going to check the small hole in the master cylinder, that was mentioned. Might try the seafoam in the oil, if I understood that part correctly.

Have to agree, this is a great site for Valk owners.

[luna negra]

My brother in-law screwed up his 4 wheeler using the wrong oil.  He changed to the correct oil then added some Seafoam for engine.  Did that a couple of times with more oil changes and it helped clean the clutch plates.

Did I understand that he added the seafoam to the engine oil? Just curious, since I am having a slipping clutch problem also. Just bought a 2000 Valk about a month ago, 12,000 miles, been sitting for a long time. I changed out the oil, the clutch slave unit, a new braided clutch line, and still slipping under power. Tomorrow I'm going to check the small hole in the master cylinder, that was mentioned. Might try the seafoam in the oil, if I understood that part correctly.

Have to agree, this is a great site for Valk owners.

jag, try this - go for ride and take a 10mm wrench with you.  When it starts slipping, pull over and see if you can bleed any air off the clutch while holding the lever in.  If you can and the slipping goes away, the problem's in your master cylinder.   Mine was doing exact same thing and this helped confirm where the problem really was -needed to be rebuilt.

[Big Rig]

Just make sure fluid is clear...fluid is cheap and it takes some time to get all the olf clutch fluid out. CLEAN EVERYTHING in the reservoir...

Since you are new...dont ask what sort of motor oil to use...or tires...or political affiliation and you will be fine... 

This group knows these bikes inside and out and are willing to help you out. That is why I still have mine for 20 years...

Welcome.
Ride Safe

[jag39]

I am guessing that the pressure relief hole is plugged causing the slipping. In the clutch reservoir there is a small duckbill (for lack of a better word) on the bottom.  It pulls out revealing a small hole. I am betting that that hole is plugged.  Clean out that hole (there is nothing you will damage by cleaning it out) and I bet you will be back riding with no more clutch issues.

Brad

I was just cruising through this post, as I have been having a slippage problem also. Woke up at 3:30 this morning and went to the shop. Found the small hole under the "duckbill", got the finest wire that was in my torch tip cleaner and pushed it in and out a few times. Just got back from a 62 mile round trip test ride, trying everything I could to get the clutch to slip, with no luck.  Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I was already getting in clutch removal mode. The Valk Forum, and members have saved my butt again.

[jag39]

My brother in-law screwed up his 4 wheeler using the wrong oil.  He changed to the correct oil then added some Seafoam for engine.  Did that a couple of times with more oil changes and it helped clean the clutch plates.

Did I understand that he added the seafoam to the engine oil? Just curious, since I am having a slipping clutch problem also. Just bought a 2000 Valk about a month ago, 12,000 miles, been sitting for a long time. I changed out the oil, the clutch slave unit, a new braided clutch line, and still slipping under power. Tomorrow I'm going to check the small hole in the master cylinder, that was mentioned. Might try the seafoam in the oil, if I understood that part correctly.

Have to agree, this is a great site for Valk owners.

jag, try this - go for ride and take a 10mm wrench with you.  When it starts slipping, pull over and see if you can bleed any air off the clutch while holding the lever in.  If you can and the slipping goes away, the problem's in your master cylinder.   Mine was doing exact same thing and this helped confirm where the problem really was -needed to be rebuilt.

You know, I did try that several times. Once it got worse and worse until I couldn't move. Bled some off and got home fine, but didn't know why. If I had seen this 3 weeks ago, would probably have already cured the problem. Thanks for the tip.