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Hoosiervalk
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« on: July 21, 2019, 06:16:33 AM » |
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Good Morning, did I read somewhere that you can clean the jets and carb bowls on A IS with out removing the carbs? Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2019, 06:25:21 AM » |
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It seems physically possible. But I wouldn’t attempt it without JIL (I think that’s what they are called) screwdrivers. The screws on the carb bowls are hard to brake loose with the carb bank off. You strip a couple of them and you will make your short cut a very long cut ???
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Hoosiervalk
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« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2019, 06:42:41 AM » |
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THANKS Chrisj it sounded to good to be true !
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da prez
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« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2019, 07:07:01 AM » |
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The screwdrivers are JIS. It stands for Japanese industrial standard. They are a full cross point. A fillips is not. When you compare the two , you will see the difference. I bought a set from Amazon and also bought the impact screwdriver. It is a little difficult to break the screws loose in that small area.
da prez
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2019, 07:11:42 AM » |
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Those float bowl screws are very special screws. They are purposely made soft so that they strip out before the threads in the carburetor strip out. So, if you mess them up, the smart move is to replace them with the same OEM item. That's a much cheaper way to go, rather than replacing a carburetor body.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Leathel
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« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2019, 12:03:22 PM » |
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I have changed jets on a std without removing the carbs, you need a good small ratchet screwdriver with the correct tips.... But if I hadn't checked the float levels recently I would have removed the carbs just to check the float levels at the same time, the floats do distort and you risk hydroloc if ignored  |
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Challenger
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« Reply #6 on: July 22, 2019, 08:26:02 AM » |
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I've done it on two Valks, I/S and a Std. Both machines needed choke to start even when 70° out. Good time to replace o-rings while intake runners are off. The hardest part for me was cleaning the jets themselves. Used a .035 fuel injection cleaning wire to get the plugged crap out. Might be easier to buy new ones since they are already out. . Thought about replacing carb bowl screws with Allen heads but did not. They both fire up with no choke now unless really cold.
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RWhitehouse
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« Reply #7 on: July 22, 2019, 10:14:23 AM » |
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I mean I guess it's physically possible, but I'm fairly sure you'll spend way more time and frustration on that than just removing the carb rack and then having clear access. It's really not as scary or difficult as people like to think. I think my first time doing it, took maybe an hour to have the carbs off. Second time took maybe half that.
If you've had to pull carbs on an older Honda I-4 or worse, a V65, the ones on the Valk are a breeze to get on and off.
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Paladin528
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« Reply #8 on: July 22, 2019, 05:36:21 PM » |
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I replaced the carb bowl screws with internal wrenching machine screws. works great.
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rug_burn
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« Reply #10 on: July 23, 2019, 04:17:13 PM » |
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I've had my carb carrier off probably 4 times now- yeah, it's a real biotch, especially the first time.
You just gotta bite the bullet, pull off the tank, air box, those two black steel top motor hangar mounts, switch, coil and all the hoses. Easy, right?
Actually, once you get familiar with it, it doesn't seem so hard. On the carb carrier, you got the top vapor lines, the mid- elevation various vacuum lines, then the fuel drain lines on the bottom. Then there are the carb air box lines, and the big ones actuated by the vacuum lines. Some, or many of the lines can stay with the carb carrier when you carefully guide it out of the left side of the engine (how I do it- other ways may work as well or better)
You pretty much gotta have the sketch from the manual to get it all back together right the first few times. I can scan on for you if you haven't got a manual.
Then, yeah, clean the carb orifices well, clean the needles with your fingernail, replace the fuel and vapor rail o-rings, 6 new carb seal kits, and a little new fuel and vacuum line as needed.
I just bought new idle jets for about $6 each after dicking with my clogged ones for way too long.
You can also pull off the chrome diaphragm covers without pulling the carbs at all (careful when you first pull them off- there's a big long spring that'll fly off. You can then clean the needle jet with a #38 drill in a pin vise, but you gotta have a light touch.
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« Last Edit: July 23, 2019, 04:22:34 PM by rug_burn »
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...insert hip saying here..
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TPGause
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« Reply #11 on: July 29, 2019, 05:56:09 PM » |
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Taking the carb bowls off is not too bad. I used a small 1/4 " ratchet wrench with a 1/4 drive JIS bit inserted. The small ratchet wrench has a very light ratchet mechanism. Just a little wrench wiggle with turn the screw. There is very limited room for tools under the carbs. The rear most carb bolt must be done by feel but it is doable. When reinstalling, be careful to keep the bowl rubber gasket in the correct position. Mine slid off and caused a gasoline leak. Easy enough to redo. Second time was fine. Use a piece of electrical tape to prevent the bit from falling through the ratchet wrench.
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