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Author Topic: OEM Rear Brake Pipe replacement part about 10mm short  (Read 1639 times)
mello dude
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*****
Posts: 950


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« on: August 10, 2019, 07:44:23 PM »

I thought I would post this as kinda heads up thing.....

Since I discovered this as I work on the rear brake line replacement, I discovered the OEM part is short!
Kinda PIA, I can do a work around, but you dont expect a Honda replacement part to not match what is on the bike.....


Caliper end...


And fitting that mounts up to OEM hose....


Well, damn...  Tongue
« Last Edit: August 10, 2019, 07:52:20 PM by mello dude » Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
mello dude
Member
*****
Posts: 950


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2019, 07:46:22 PM »

Oh, .... as a BTW.... Anybody know or find the torque assembly value for new brake pipes and hoses?  Cool

I looked in the FSM, but I could be blind.... Cool
« Last Edit: August 10, 2019, 07:48:12 PM by mello dude » Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
9Ball
Member
*****
Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2019, 03:29:19 AM »

I would think that values similar to banjo fitting torque specs would work as a baseline...here’s a link to an example...

http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds573.pdf

This is a guide for hydraulic fluid lines...

https://www.new-line.com/information/tightening-torque-recommendations-for-hydraulic-couplings

« Last Edit: August 11, 2019, 03:33:11 AM by 9Ball » Logged

VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13460


South Jersey


« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2019, 04:29:35 AM »

Oh, .... as a BTW.... Anybody know or find the torque assembly value for new brake pipes and hoses?  Cool

I looked in the FSM, but I could be blind.... Cool

tech manual page 15-15   called brake hose oil bolt throughout manual
Install the brake hose with the oil bolt and new sealing
washers.
Push the eyelet joint against the stopper, then tighten the oil
bolt to the specified torque.
TORQUE: 34 N-m (3.5 kgfmm. 25 Ibf-ft)
Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
9Ball
Member
*****
Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2019, 06:23:29 AM »

Oh, .... as a BTW.... Anybody know or find the torque assembly value for new brake pipes and hoses?  Cool

I looked in the FSM, but I could be blind.... Cool

tech manual page 15-15   called brake hose oil bolt throughout manual
Install the brake hose with the oil bolt and new sealing
washers.
Push the eyelet joint against the stopper, then tighten the oil
bolt to the specified torque.
TORQUE: 34 N-m (3.5 kgfmm. 25 Ibf-ft)

That’s the correct specs for the oil bolts used at the banjo fittings that use a sealing washer on both sides of the oil bolt, but his question is about the pipe torque specs that don’t use sealing washers...it’s just where the flexible hoses meet the rigid pipes that run along the frame/swingarm.  Most would just tighten until it no longer leaks when the brake is applied, but he was looking for an actual torque spec.  Page 3-16 says to just tighten or replace if deterioration, cracks, damage, or leakage is present (paraphrasing).

I replaced the hoses last summer and just snugged the fittings so they didn’t leak while flushing the brake system.  All my banjo fitting oil bolts were torqued to the 25 lbf-ft specified in the manual.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2019, 06:37:51 AM by 9Ball » Logged

VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13460


South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2019, 07:52:42 AM »

Oh, .... as a BTW.... Anybody know or find the torque assembly value for new brake pipes and hoses?  Cool

I looked in the FSM, but I could be blind.... Cool

tech manual page 15-15   called brake hose oil bolt throughout manual
Install the brake hose with the oil bolt and new sealing
washers.
Push the eyelet joint against the stopper, then tighten the oil
bolt to the specified torque.
TORQUE: 34 N-m (3.5 kgfmm. 25 Ibf-ft)

That’s the correct specs for the oil bolts used at the banjo fittings that use a sealing washer on both sides of the oil bolt, but his question is about the pipe torque specs that don’t use sealing washers...it’s just where the flexible hoses meet the rigid pipes that run along the frame/swingarm.  Most would just tighten until it no longer leaks when the brake is applied, but he was looking for an actual torque spec.  Page 3-16 says to just tighten or replace if deterioration, cracks, damage, or leakage is present (paraphrasing).

I replaced the hoses last summer and just snugged the fittings so they didn’t leak while flushing the brake system.  All my banjo fitting oil bolts were torqued to the 25 lbf-ft specified in the manual.

Suggest Torque Values  pg 1-13
Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
mello dude
Member
*****
Posts: 950


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2019, 10:13:01 AM »

I understand 25 ft-lbs for the banjos, but that seems high for the brake pipe assemblys.
Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2019, 10:25:12 AM »







Who has been using a 7/16 wrench on a 10mm fitting ?  Angry
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The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #8 on: August 11, 2019, 10:44:26 AM »

Oh, .... as a BTW.... Anybody know or find the torque assembly value for new brake pipes and hoses?  Cool

I looked in the FSM, but I could be blind.... Cool
How would you get a torque wrench on it to begin with ?
Logged
9Ball
Member
*****
Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #9 on: August 11, 2019, 11:06:24 AM »

I understand 25 ft-lbs for the banjos, but that seems high for the brake pipe assemblys.

the 25 value is for banjo bolts only, not the pipe connection.

Snug to prevent leaks is the proper value....these can be over-tightened.  The picture you show looks like they were over tightened and with the wrong size wrench.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2019, 11:12:08 AM by 9Ball » Logged

VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
9Ball
Member
*****
Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #10 on: August 11, 2019, 11:46:47 AM »

Oh, .... as a BTW.... Anybody know or find the torque assembly value for new brake pipes and hoses?  Cool

I looked in the FSM, but I could be blind.... Cool

tech manual page 15-15   called brake hose oil bolt throughout manual
Install the brake hose with the oil bolt and new sealing
washers.
Push the eyelet joint against the stopper, then tighten the oil
bolt to the specified torque.
TORQUE: 34 N-m (3.5 kgfmm. 25 Ibf-ft)

That’s the correct specs for the oil bolts used at the banjo fittings that use a sealing washer on both sides of the oil bolt, but his question is about the pipe torque specs that don’t use sealing washers...it’s just where the flexible hoses meet the rigid pipes that run along the frame/swingarm.  Most would just tighten until it no longer leaks when the brake is applied, but he was looking for an actual torque spec.  Page 3-16 says to just tighten or replace if deterioration, cracks, damage, or leakage is present (paraphrasing).

I replaced the hoses last summer and just snugged the fittings so they didn’t leak while flushing the brake system.  All my banjo fitting oil bolts were torqued to the 25 lbf-ft specified in the manual.

Suggest Torque Values  pg 1-13

The torque spec he’s looking for is not listed on the page you referenced, sorry.
Logged

VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
mello dude
Member
*****
Posts: 950


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #11 on: August 11, 2019, 12:23:40 PM »




Who has been using a 7/16 wrench on a 10mm fitting ?  Angry

It wasnt me.... the Spiegler guy tried to take it apart...
Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
mello dude
Member
*****
Posts: 950


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2019, 12:27:07 PM »

Oh, .... as a BTW.... Anybody know or find the torque assembly value for new brake pipes and hoses?  Cool

I looked in the FSM, but I could be blind.... Cool
How would you get a torque wrench on it to begin with ?

I was thinking in relative terms... I somewhat know what say 17 ft-lbs feels like, as do 25ish or 12....
Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #13 on: August 11, 2019, 12:32:40 PM »

Oh, .... as a BTW.... Anybody know or find the torque assembly value for new brake pipes and hoses?  Cool

I looked in the FSM, but I could be blind.... Cool
How would you get a torque wrench on it to begin with ?

I was thinking in relative terms... I somewhat know what say 17 ft-lbs feels like, as do 25ish or 12....

cooldude
Logged
The emperor has no clothes
Member
*****
Posts: 29945


« Reply #14 on: August 11, 2019, 12:34:36 PM »




Who has been using a 7/16 wrench on a 10mm fitting ?  Angry

It wasnt me.... the Spiegler guy tried to take it apart...
Shocked (makes me a little nervous about a brake guy)
Logged
mello dude
Member
*****
Posts: 950


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #15 on: August 11, 2019, 12:37:30 PM »




Who has been using a 7/16 wrench on a 10mm fitting ?  Angry

It wasnt me.... the Spiegler guy tried to take it apart...
Shocked (makes me a little nervous about a brake guy)

They provide brake parts and go.... here you go..... but refuse to assemble it all...
Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
PatrickDoss
Member
*****
Posts: 169


Alabama


« Reply #16 on: August 11, 2019, 12:59:00 PM »

...you dont expect a Honda replacement part to not match what is on the bike.....

I ran into a similar problem on an OEM Honda radiator hose for my Goldwing. The angle at a bend was wrong and would nearly pinch closed when forced around to the radiator. If I had to guess at yours, I'd say they measured the "finished" length and *then* bent it, rather than the "total" length. Seems the original supplier to the factory is no longer the supplier to the replacement parts stream. I called corporate Honda and complained, but their response was that I needed to take it to a certified Honda motorcycle dealer and let their mechanic figure out why the part didn't fit correctly.
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98valk
Member
*****
Posts: 13460


South Jersey


« Reply #17 on: August 11, 2019, 01:27:21 PM »

Oh, .... as a BTW.... Anybody know or find the torque assembly value for new brake pipes and hoses?  Cool

I looked in the FSM, but I could be blind.... Cool

tech manual page 15-15   called brake hose oil bolt throughout manual
Install the brake hose with the oil bolt and new sealing
washers.
Push the eyelet joint against the stopper, then tighten the oil
bolt to the specified torque.
TORQUE: 34 N-m (3.5 kgfmm. 25 Ibf-ft)

That’s the correct specs for the oil bolts used at the banjo fittings that use a sealing washer on both sides of the oil bolt, but his question is about the pipe torque specs that don’t use sealing washers...it’s just where the flexible hoses meet the rigid pipes that run along the frame/swingarm.  Most would just tighten until it no longer leaks when the brake is applied, but he was looking for an actual torque spec.  Page 3-16 says to just tighten or replace if deterioration, cracks, damage, or leakage is present (paraphrasing).

I replaced the hoses last summer and just snugged the fittings so they didn’t leak while flushing the brake system.  All my banjo fitting oil bolts were torqued to the 25 lbf-ft specified in the manual.

Suggest Torque Values  pg 1-13

The torque spec he’s looking for is not listed on the page you referenced, sorry.

did u read the page and foot notes?  something that is not listed is not critical so they give a torque per size of bolt/nut.
Logged

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
9Ball
Member
*****
Posts: 2183


South Jersey


« Reply #18 on: August 11, 2019, 04:05:56 PM »

Oh, .... as a BTW.... Anybody know or find the torque assembly value for new brake pipes and hoses?  Cool

I looked in the FSM, but I could be blind.... Cool

tech manual page 15-15   called brake hose oil bolt throughout manual
Install the brake hose with the oil bolt and new sealing
washers.
Push the eyelet joint against the stopper, then tighten the oil
bolt to the specified torque.
TORQUE: 34 N-m (3.5 kgfmm. 25 Ibf-ft)

That’s the correct specs for the oil bolts used at the banjo fittings that use a sealing washer on both sides of the oil bolt, but his question is about the pipe torque specs that don’t use sealing washers...it’s just where the flexible hoses meet the rigid pipes that run along the frame/swingarm.  Most would just tighten until it no longer leaks when the brake is applied, but he was looking for an actual torque spec.  Page 3-16 says to just tighten or replace if deterioration, cracks, damage, or leakage is present (paraphrasing).

I replaced the hoses last summer and just snugged the fittings so they didn’t leak while flushing the brake system.  All my banjo fitting oil bolts were torqued to the 25 lbf-ft specified in the manual.

Suggest Torque Values  pg 1-13

The torque spec he’s looking for is not listed on the page you referenced, sorry.

did u read the page and foot notes?  something that is not listed is not critical so they give a torque per size of bolt/nut.


Did you read the instructions that just says to tighten so it doesn’t leak?

You can admit you were mistaken,,,it’s ok.  The stuff you’re referencing is for bolts, not hydraulic lines.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2019, 04:14:21 PM by 9Ball » Logged

VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
mello dude
Member
*****
Posts: 950


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #19 on: August 24, 2019, 10:03:53 PM »

Adding new rear line install....
Overview shot.... New OEM front line and tube + Spiegler dongle for last line by caliper. They have the specs for the fitting and dimensions if you wanted to order.


Overview #2 - you can see the OEM line snake by the front of the swing arm.


« Last Edit: August 24, 2019, 10:25:28 PM by mello dude » Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
mello dude
Member
*****
Posts: 950


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #20 on: August 24, 2019, 10:18:50 PM »

Since the OEM tube is short I had to trim the rear hold down clamp and also I cut a piece of thick wall rubber tubing to allow the clamp to grab on to. Worked out ok.
- The front OEM line mounts up fine in the stock mounts exactly. The clamp that hold the hose down by the swing arm bolts down together as it should... at top of the photo.

OEM tube lined up... zip tie is temporary.


Close up- I trimmed the hold down clamp + rubber tubing. The OEM clamp would not fit over the fitting hex if it wasn't trimmed.. since everything is shifted forward.

« Last Edit: August 24, 2019, 10:55:09 PM by mello dude » Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
mello dude
Member
*****
Posts: 950


Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #21 on: September 03, 2019, 03:33:03 PM »

Final Assembly

Logged

* There's someone in my head, but it's not me.......
* Mr. Murphy was an optimist....
* There's a very fine line between Insanity and Genius.....
* My get up and go, must have got up and went.....
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