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Author Topic: Bike troubles --- alternator noise  (Read 1966 times)
Mapper
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Montclair, VA


« on: August 16, 2019, 01:27:02 PM »

My '97 Valkyrie has developed a rattling noise in/near the alternator.

I noticed this on a road trip when starting up --- the RPM was lower than it usually is on a cold start, and there was a rattle.  The rattle lessens when the engine heats up.  Other than the rattle and lower than usual RPM on cold start, there is no noticeable change in performance.

I had to take it into the shop today and leave it --- the only consolation is that the shop has been open for 50+ years and the tech I talked to has been there since 1982.  I feel like I'm leaving my young kid with strangers  Undecided Embarrassed 

The guy said that it is either something wrong with the alternator (I replaced it in 2013, and the voltage is good still), or something in the back of the engine (would need to drop the engine) --- I thought these engines are bulletproof!  I've only got 77,000 miles. 

Something he said I hadn't heard before, but I'm not a mechanic --- he said the 1500 Goldwing and 1500 Valkyrie engines are completely different: like comparing apples to oranges.  I thought the big difference was the carb bank.

Anyone here have similar experiences? I couldn't figure out how to word the indications in a way that anything similar popped up in the search bar.

I may have been a little more defensive and irritable with the guy than I should have been, I'm sure the bike is in good hands.   Undecided
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Steel cowboy
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Moving ahead so life won’t pass me by.

Spring Hill, Fl.


« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2019, 02:22:17 PM »

My 2 year old alternator developed a rattle that got progressively louder. I removed the alternator and  disassembled it, I found the rear bearing was worn out. When I spun it on my finger I could feel it was rough. I replaced it with a used bearing from the original alternator and everything’s good now. I opened the rough running bearing and found it was dry inside no grease at all, it held up just long enough for the warranty to expire.
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2001 black interstate
2003 Jupiter Orange wing
The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2019, 03:48:06 PM »

I've experienced two different "rattle" issues with an alternator. One, the drive nut had loosened. Tightened up and staked the nut. Problem solved. Number 2 was more involved. Bearing in the alternator crapped out. Had to have the alternator rebuilt.
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gordonv
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VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2019, 05:18:43 PM »

1st, if they think they are not "the same", I would run. Parts are inter changeable between them both. They have different ratings, HP, and the like, but a lot of parts are exactly the same, or replaceable as a unit/assembly (the heads).

Here is my post on the alternator, I've just completed. A GW one to a Valkyrie.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,107156.0.html

It's not hard, do the job yourself and save $500, if they are talking dropping the engine. Like the others have posted, these are most likely what the problem is. But it's always about the cost. Seems at $100 for a new one from Amazon, it might be easier and cheaper to buy a working new one, and then spend time later fixing your original one and keep it as a spare.

The hardest part used to be installing it, but I think I've figured out what has been causing it to be difficult, and posted about it.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2019, 08:25:50 AM by gordonv » Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2019, 02:07:29 AM »


                 I feel like I'm leaving my young kid with strangers


I hear you there...  



 I would also suspect the commutator side bearing in the alternator (they lead a rough life), if it was replaced with an aftermarket alt, maybe a loose nut like meathead described, if so, the mechanic should be able to take care of it without much trouble,, although you probably would have been better off all around if you had done it yourself.

As far as apples and oranges between our motors and the Goldwing 1500, I just lost my confidence in him there. I would wait to see if he finds the trouble in the alternator, and if not, maybe back up a bit and rethink this.





« Last Edit: August 17, 2019, 02:12:03 AM by pancho » Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Mapper
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Montclair, VA


« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2019, 02:07:53 PM »

Guy came back today --- you were all correct --- seems to be the alternator.  I've never had an alternator start to mechanically fail while still outputting sufficient voltage.

I don't remember how long it took me to replace the old one almost 6 years ago.  What is the typical amount of time required?  I'm at work a lot lately and the kids have been keeping me busy when I'm at home with school almost starting back up --- thinking about having the shop do it. 

Does anyone here know what the listed labor time is for replacing the alternator?  He says he'll charge me for however long it takes, but don't want spend more than fair market value.


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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2019, 03:55:18 PM »

Guy came back today --- you were all correct --- seems to be the alternator.  I've never had an alternator start to mechanically fail while still outputting sufficient voltage.

I don't remember how long it took me to replace the old one almost 6 years ago.  What is the typical amount of time required?  I'm at work a lot lately and the kids have been keeping me busy when I'm at home with school almost starting back up --- thinking about having the shop do it. 

Does anyone here know what the listed labor time is for replacing the alternator?  He says he'll charge me for however long it takes, but don't want spend more than fair market value.



Ive done it in 15-20 minutes. I've also taken 4 hours of cussing and bitching before. I'm to the point now I can do it in less than a hour start to finish.
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Bighead
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Madison Alabama


« Reply #7 on: August 20, 2019, 04:54:34 PM »

Only done it twice and both on the same day(don’t ask 2funny) in about 30-40 minutes.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
TPGause
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Gainesville-LaCrosse, FL


« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2019, 04:11:21 PM »

My 1999 Interstate was having a noise around the alternator. I removed the alternator and replaced the rubber, pie shaped spacers that drive the alternator input disc with new ones. The noise vanished. The old rubber spacers must have been worn enough to sort of rattle. Easy fix and you certainly don't need to remove the engine. When the alternator is removed you can spin it and see if the bearings are OK. A new alternator would be easy to install. Remember to disconnect the battery.   
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Steel cowboy
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Moving ahead so life won’t pass me by.

Spring Hill, Fl.


« Reply #9 on: August 27, 2019, 02:26:58 AM »

Maybe put the word out for someone in the area to help. I've done my interstate alternator twice now. It should take you about an hour, but there is that one time were that estimate could go out the window. Lol
Make sure you grease up that Oring and seat plus use copper anti seize on the bolts.
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2001 black interstate
2003 Jupiter Orange wing
MarkT
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Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #10 on: August 27, 2019, 05:50:59 AM »

If he hasn't done it much before and he wants to charge T&M from his actual effort, beware.  There's a "trick" to removing and reinserting the alternator which can take much longer if he doesn't know it. Search for that on this board, I among others have spoken to that.  I'd say have a Valk friend who's knowledgable on it help you instead.  Also if this is the guy who said the GW 1500 is way different - run, don't walk away.
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
Mapper
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Posts: 390


Montclair, VA


« Reply #11 on: September 04, 2019, 03:07:56 PM »

Thanks guys, for all the help and advice!  I've done a Valk alternator before about 6 years ago, but what got me concerned was the rattle --- as someone mentioned, this turned out to be a bad bearing.  The actual swap out was much quicker than my first time trying many years ago --- all and all it took just over an hour at a somewhat leisurely pace.  

I've never had an alternator bearing go bad!  I also broke the connector between a couple spacers, so I'm ordering new ones for next time.  Oh yeah!  Someone mentioned using some grease to help in getting the spacers to stay in place --- this worked great!  The same person mentioned they wondered about putting the spacers on the fins with grease and trying to insert it that way... this didn't work for me. 

I'm keeping the alternator to see if I can repair it --- this will be something new for me.

I would have gotten back sooner, but as an oceanographer/meteorologist, I've been at work for the last 12 days due to all the storm activity.
« Last Edit: September 04, 2019, 03:10:33 PM by Mapper » Logged
cookiedough
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southern WI


« Reply #12 on: September 04, 2019, 08:14:43 PM »

I made the mistake this spring of taking my old car to replace front struts (fully assembled one piece) to a young kid/adult in hometown him opening up his own repair shop trying to give him some business for it would have taken me much longer than 2-3 hours lifting one side up at a time with jack.   I got a few estimates from other more reputable local shops and all said 2 hours labor basically 1 hour each side which I felt was reasonable.  So, since when I asked this young kid age 20 or so who did go to  2 year tech school for automotive mechanics how long BEFORE doing job he said 2 to 2 1/2 hours tops.  Since his labor rate was 50 vs. 80+ elsewhere I figured why not right?  He came back at 3 hours labor costing me 150 bucks darn near same 80+80 at larger more reputable chain shop. 

I will not make that mistake twice will get it in writing if he says 2 hours or 2 1/2 hours tops he better mean it in writing.  I do not trust anyone anymore that says he/she will just charge however LONG it takes since not paying for them to goof around sipping coffee or hoarsing around on their cell phone me paying for it being near 1 hour too long of a job.    If the BOOK repair manual states 2 hours normal job, then I expect pretty close to that unless something drastically out of the ordinary happens.
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Mapper
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Posts: 390


Montclair, VA


« Reply #13 on: September 06, 2019, 12:17:43 PM »

I made the mistake this spring of taking my old car to replace front struts (fully assembled one piece) to a young kid/adult in hometown him opening up his own repair shop trying to give him some business for it would have taken me much longer than 2-3 hours lifting one side up at a time with jack.   I got a few estimates from other more reputable local shops and all said 2 hours labor basically 1 hour each side which I felt was reasonable.  So, since when I asked this young kid age 20 or so who did go to  2 year tech school for automotive mechanics how long BEFORE doing job he said 2 to 2 1/2 hours tops.  Since his labor rate was 50 vs. 80+ elsewhere I figured why not right?  He came back at 3 hours labor costing me 150 bucks darn near same 80+80 at larger more reputable chain shop. 

I will not make that mistake twice will get it in writing if he says 2 hours or 2 1/2 hours tops he better mean it in writing.  I do not trust anyone anymore that says he/she will just charge however LONG it takes since not paying for them to goof around sipping coffee or hoarsing around on their cell phone me paying for it being near 1 hour too long of a job.    If the BOOK repair manual states 2 hours normal job, then I expect pretty close to that unless something drastically out of the ordinary happens.

You and me both, brother.  No one on here rogered up to having the BOOK that states the labor time required, getting a consensus on how long it has taken others was just as helpful.  I'm very skeptical when someone tells me that they'll see how long it takes and then let me know.  I was also strapped for time, but it ended up not taking that long.


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