Need some sage advice - 2001 Interstate steering issue

[Dagwood]

Hi all,
I got the chance to pull the trigger on a 2001 Interstate, 50K miles, $3600, runs great but needs some TLC. Never rode an Interstate so was real surprised to find the bike almost acts like it wants to counter steer when I try any type of low speed maneuver. Kinda freaked me out. Forks look fine, thinking head bearing. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

[HBFL]

You’ve got a nice low mileage bike. I have an I/S and they are much heavier than the standards. I think they raked them out. They fall in a bit at low speeds. Lots of variables at work here. Tire brand, size, inflation, head bearings, cables, etc. enjoy your bike.

[GRR]

Loose steering head bearings will result in a wobbly feeling. You may be experiencing over-tightened steering head bearings. Which might have been done if the the seller was getting the 50k mile bike ready to sell. A way to tell is to get the front wheel off the ground (not easy to do) and see how hard it is to turn the forks right and left. They should move smoothly with just a little resistance. If they stay in place at any off-center  position, they are probably too tight.

[sandy]

I would guess tire pressures are low. 50K is too low a mileage for head bearings.

[nogrey]

I just purchased a 2001 Interstate with 30K on it last November. When I got it, the steering was sluggish and harsh. Hard to put into words, but it was a fight just to maneuver it into the garage. I spent 4 months getting the bike back to pristine. Among other things, I cleaned and re-packed the triple tree bearings, replaced the front and rear tires, rebuilt the front and rear brake cylinders, etc, etc. I imagine you’ll need to do much the same. Tires get old, even if there is lots of tread depth, they shouldn’t be run if over 6 years old. Inflation is a huge factor as well. Head bearings are 18 years old and no doubt are very dry and crusty. Clean and re-pack them. Make sure the front brakes aren’t creating drag. Put the bike on a lift. Front wheel should turn freely and steering should be silky smooth from left to right. Very little resistance. Rear tire can also negatively impact steering. It needs to be in good condition. Brakes need to be resistance free in neutral. Rear shocks should be inspected. Bushings replaced. It’s a bit of a project renewing a bike, but once completed, you’ll have a “new” Valkyrie.

[Dagwood]

Your probably right about the tire, need to be replaced. Guy just bought it at auction, old fart like me (64), never rode a Valk before, bet he got a real surprise   . Looks like the bike has not seen much in the way of PM, I should be more concerned about the rear end. Will go front to back this winter so it's ready next year. Thanks!

[nogrey]

Your probably right about the tire, need to be replaced. Guy just bought it at auction, old fart like me (64), never rode a Valk before, bet he got a real surprise   . Looks like the bike has not seen much in the way of PM, I should be more concerned about the rear end. Will go front to back this winter so it's ready next year. Thanks!

Guess being an old fart sortof runs in the Valk lineage. The ‘01 I bought was $3800 and is my umpteenth Valkyrie. I enjoy projects and sold my ‘12 Rocket III to get another crack at an Interstate. I had sold my pristine ‘01 several years prior because I “had to have” a Triumph Rocket. Don’t get me wrong, strong, crazy fast bikes, but no where near the bike a Valk is (no flaming please, just my opinion here). Anyway, when I got my “new to me” Interstate last year, I immediately put her on a lift and began the process of “refreshing” the bike to a safe and rideable machine:
Timing belts      
Exhaust gaskets
Steel Valve stems
Tail light
Replace exhaust
Lift adapter
Shock Bushings
De-smog kit
Strobe stop lamp
Custom front brake & Clutch lines
Spiegler rear brake line
Replace choke cable
Front Tire:  Michelin Pilot 130/90-17
Rear Tire:  Austone Taxi
Front/Rear Brakes


SERVICE HISTORY
The following was performed at 30,300 miles, 2019:
Cleaned carburetors and replaced gaskets, slow #35 jets and float valves
Replaced rear shock bushings with Polyurethane bushings
Front brake calipers frozen: cleaned and lubricated.
Final drive unit replaced (installed unit was damaged), lubricated, O rings changed, new thrust washer.
Exhaust changed back to stock exhaust
Rear bearings replaced (both sides).
Drain and replace antifreeze with Honda 50/50
Final drive fluid replaced
Engine oil and filter changed (Castrol 10W-50 full synthetic MC racing oil & Mobile M110 filter)
Rear tire replaced (Austone Taxi)  
Rear tire valve stem replaced with steel stem
Ride-on installed in front and rear tires
Front tire replaced
Front tire valve stem replaced with steel stem
Timing belts replaced
Installed desmog kit.
New air filter.
Tore down and cleaned/lubricated Hi/Lo beam switch and turn signal switch.
Installed “Signal Boss” turn signal controller
Installed electronic cruise control
Adjusted Valves to factory specification
Lubricated both throttle cables.
Installed Hella supertone horns.
Rebuilt front brake master cylinder and replaced rubber boot.
New DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid and system bled for front, rear, and clutch.
Rebuilt clutch master cylinder and replaced rubber boot.
Cleaned and repacked grease in Triple tree bearings, top and bottom.

[Bagger John - #3785]

...I immediately put her on a lift and began the process of “refreshing” the bike to a safe and rideable machine:
...
Steel Valve stems
...

Tell me/us more.

Whose valves (OEM, etc.) did you use - and why? Or did you replace the guides?

[nogrey]

...I immediately put her on a lift and began the process of “refreshing” the bike to a safe and rideable machine:
...
Steel Valve stems
...

Tell me/us more.

Whose valves (OEM, etc.) did you use - and why? Or did you replace the guides?

The valve stems referenced were to replace OEM valve stems in the tires.

[Bagger John - #3785]

The valve stems referenced were to replace OEM valve stems in the tires.

Ah.

There's another valve stem in that there bike ...  

[Ramie]

Hi all,
I got the chance to pull the trigger on a 2001 Interstate, 50K miles, $3600, runs great but needs some TLC. Never rode an Interstate so was real surprised to find the bike almost acts like it wants to counter steer when I try any type of low speed maneuver. Kinda freaked me out. Forks look fine, thinking head bearing. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

The shock bushing made a big difference on mine when I first got it, that and tire pressure.

[..]

Hi all,
I got the chance to pull the trigger on a 2001 Interstate, 50K miles, $3600, runs great but needs some TLC. Never rode an Interstate so was real surprised to find the bike almost acts like it wants to counter steer when I try any type of low speed maneuver. Kinda freaked me out. Forks look fine, thinking head bearing. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Put it on bike lift if you have one.

Now push the handlebar with one finger, say from fill lock left to right. If the movement is slow and steady it's all OK.

If the bar passes center and suddenly flops to the right the head bearing may be too loose.

If it stiffens up as it gets to center it may be too tight  .