Coolant

[Big Rig]

Correct antifreeze for our bikes?

How much is required?

[Bighead]

Silicate free and fill it til it is full.

[F6Dave]

Back when out Valks were new, many coolants contained silicates.  There were many stories of silicated coolants destroying water pump seals.

Today, most common coolants (like Prestone) are Dexcool clones, which are silicate free OAT (organic acid technology) formulas.  This coolant type was developed by GM, but now Ford and others have adopted it as well.  I've used Dexcool on both of my Valks for 270,000 combined miles.

Technically, Honda uses a phosphated hybrid OAT coolant.  Valvoline markets this as their 'Zerex Asian' coolant, and you can also buy the formula at Japanese car dealers (Honda/Toyota/Mazda etc).

[mello dude]

I run  "Honda Blue"..... Type 2 coolant, buy at the car dealer. Its a tick pricey, I dont care, it works fine in all my Honda's.... 

[hubcapsc]

Are you flushing it? Read in the manual (there's on online at valkyrienorway.com) about
how to "burp" the system...

-Mike "keep the fluid away from your animals!"

[Jess from VA]

Back when out Valks were new, many coolants contained silicates.  There were many stories of silicated coolants destroying water pump seals.

Today, most common coolants (like Prestone) are Dexcool clones, which are silicate free OAT (organic acid technology) formulas.  This coolant type was developed by GM, but now Ford and others have adopted it as well.  I've used Dexcool on both of my Valks for 270,000 combined miles.

Technically, Honda uses a phosphated hybrid OAT coolant.  Valvoline markets this as their 'Zerex Asian' coolant, and you can also buy the formula at Japanese car dealers (Honda/Toyota/Mazda etc).

I used that Zerex Asian coolant last change on both bikes.  Big BF wanted me to use Honda, but I've had no problem I'm aware of in three years or so. 

[Valkorado]

Heck Prestone 50/50 for all makes has been working for me.  Just changed out Ruby's today!

[MarkT]

Well, I've posted this repeatedly in past threads - because it bears repeating.  I run Evans permanent waterless coolant in all my vehicles.  All 3 running (of my 4) Valks, the Gold Wing, the Kubota diesel tractor, and my 4Runner Limited.  Cooling system maintenance and internal corrosion are things of the past for me.  Yeah the stuff is expensive and so is the prep fluid - at first.  But you never buy it again - or do cooling system maintenance.  None of the negatives some mention apply in my case - except the initial cost.  See Jay Leno's videos on it.  Here's the first one:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ

[-mike-]

Just to specify the possible drawbacks of the waterless coolant or to add what the manufacturer won't tell you:

https://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

If changed correctly (see: water removal) I do believe Evan's won't harm our Valk motors, as these ain't known for thermal problems and well over engineered in their cooling system.

The rest is snake oil imho. Expensive one, too.

-mike-

[MarkT]

Just to specify the possible drawbacks of the waterless coolant or to add what the manufacturer won't tell you:

https://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

If changed correctly (see: water removal) I do believe Evan's won't harm our Valk motors, as these ain't known for thermal problems and well over engineered in their cooling system.

The rest is snake oil imho. Expensive one, too.

-mike-

"Snake oil imho."  Ever use it yourself?  Of course not.  What's your opinion on the "darkside"?

I conclude that Norosion - a competing company to Evans - has an agenda to run down Evans and here they have done so.  I'd bet a dollar to a donut Evans could commission an "unbiased" research company to "research" and publish very negative conclusions on Norosion's product.  Take this report with a SHAKER of salt.  I call BALONEY on them.

Meanwhile my engines have no corrosion, run fine and I'll continue to use their product and mention this to others.  And I have no cooling maintenance anymore.  My fan doesn't run anymore than it used to.  I don't run on racetracks where you can't use ANY coolant, but only water. My cost to convert on the bikes was about $78 each, $40 for a gallon of Evans and another $38 for the prep fluid. I don't hear any knock on any of my vehicles, w/o going to higher octane.  I don't notice any lost hp, if that claim is even true - or any of this "report" for that matter. BTW I bought a refractometer and measured my coolant on ea install.  I always got it below 0.5% water.

The main thing to me is, I don't want my aluminum engine and cooling system corroding from the inside out.  Bonus, I get to cross cooling maintenance off my schedule.

[Gideon]

Heck Prestone 50/50 for all makes has been working for me.  Just changed out Ruby's today!

  When I changed the Coolant I used Prestone 50/50.
However, with my hand tremors getting worse,  I had the Dealer do this year. They used the Honda brand. It's important whether you use Honda motorcycle coolant or automotive coolant that it is silicate free!

[cookiedough]

I just get the Prestone yellow gallon jug from Walmart but instead of the 50/50 mix,  get the 100% jug of pure coolant and buy a gallon jug of distilled water and do a 50/50 mix myself and makes double the amount for even less money spent.  No need to do that if having only 1 cycle, but 3 or more like I have saves a lot of dough even though is pretty cheap just to get the premixed 50/50 jug.

takes almost the full 4 quarts if  you also fill up the reserve tank bottle behind left side cover.

some say change it more than once every 5-6 years, but I see no real need to do that.

Am sure the Evans stuff is better and makes our bikes run a tad bit cooler, but I am not in Arizona or elsewhere where hot temps and super cold temps are a factor and doubt the more expensive stuff makes our coolant systems last much longer, if any.

[Avanti]

Been using Snake Oil (Evans Coolant) in Valk, and 4 Diesel cars, one with over 500,000 miles and a Diesel Truck for 350,000. I have never replaced a water pump or ever had a cooling problem and never changed it after the first install.
I use what works for me, use what ever seems good to you.

[Dagwood]

Keeping in line with this thread, any thoughts on if we should use some type of product to try and remove any existing corrosion in the system before changing coolant. I am assuming normal flushing doesn't do anything to remove or arrest any existing corrosion issues.

[98valk]

Been using Snake Oil (Evans Coolant) in Valk, and 4 Diesel cars, one with over 500,000 miles and a Diesel Truck for 350,000. I have never replaced a water pump or ever had a cooling problem and never changed it after the first install.
I use what works for me, use what ever seems good to you.

60k miles with the Evans in the Valkyrie. Zero problems, never changed it or needed to add any extra.