FIXED. Rear wheel installation

[..]

Seeing Mikes post about working on his "Log Truck" got my teeny paranoia head whirring.

Before the ride to Taos I serviced my bike. Found the rust on my splines. First time ever.

Even though its only been about 5,000 miles since I decided to take a look.

Great day for it. After nearly 4 weeks of rain we had a good soaking last night and the humidity is shower like. I drank 3 bottles of water whist working on the bike and I reckon 2 of those are in the shirt I was wearing. Eeeeeew!

Shocks off and cleaned.

Wheel out and hurrah, no rust. Cleaned all the old goop off and applied new goop.

Now for the life of me I can't remember how to get the bloody wheel installed.

Reply "do the reverse of what you did removing it" and I will sell your grand kids to Chinese pirates.

Shop Talk has disappeared so I'm screwed there.

Upon removal





After clean up

[..]

This is the link I get for the Home Page

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php

No Shop Talk button.

[WintrSol]

Above your post, there is a row of buttons: Home, Help, etc. Above the space with the instant search line, is a row of links: Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk and so on. Clicking Shoptalk gets me here: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/
Hope what you need is there.

[..]

Above your post, there is a row of buttong: Home, Help, etc. Above the space with the instant search line, is a row of links: Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk and so on. Clicking Shoptalk gets me here: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/

I wish there was.

From the Home page I see. Not the usual VRCC home page with graphics and stuff.

Home
Help
Search
Profile
My Bookmarks
My Messages
Chat
Members
Logout

[Chrisj CMA]

Britman. Start by loosening the four nuts that secure the final drive to the swing arm. From there it’s sort of impossible to do anything wrong at least until you have all the parts on.

When the wheel is on and you rotate the caliper plate in place and get that spacer in so the axle can be inserted you are ready for the critical part.

Install the caliper plate pin and finger tighten the axle nut. Make sure the tire is not touching the ground and the right shock is not attached to the final drive. And the four nuts are loose.

Now torque the axle nut to 81 and immediately torque the four nuts to 47. Now install the shock and bags and you should be done.

[WintrSol]

Above your post, there is a row of buttong: Home, Help, etc. Above the space with the instant search line, is a row of links: Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk and so on. Clicking Shoptalk gets me here: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/

I wish there was.

From the Home page I see. Not the usual VRCC home page with graphics and stuff.

Home
Help
Search
Profile
My Bookmarks
My Messages
Chat
Members
Logout

Above that line of buttons, on this page, is the line of links I described.

[mello dude]

After clean up

I admit I am probably the least experienced rear drive Valkyrie mechanic here in this batch of pros.. but still I am just as OCD with the best of them as wrenching geek foole of 30 years plus....  

That said, I just went thru a strip down on my rear drive and I hate to bring this up, but look at my photo and then look at your photo.... I think your spines are chewed up and shot beyond service, you probly need new... ---- The mating spline gears need to be looked at too..

 Ok ... Chrisj CMA, ValkPilot, Bagger John,... .what do you think?

 

[Chrisj CMA]

There is definitely wear noticeable on Britmans splines. However, I have seen much worse. There are many miles and years of service left in there as long as they are lubed and installed properly

[..]

There is definitely wear noticeable on Britmans splines. However, I have seen much worse. There are many miles and years of service left in there as long as they are lubed and installed properly

 

[..]

Above your post, there is a row of buttong: Home, Help, etc. Above the space with the instant search line, is a row of links: Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk and so on. Clicking Shoptalk gets me here: http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/

I wish there was.

From the Home page I see. Not the usual VRCC home page with graphics and stuff.

Home
Help
Search
Profile
My Bookmarks
My Messages
Chat
Members
Logout

Above that line of buttons, on this page, is the line of links I described.

Sadly,  not for me.

[..]

Britman. Start by loosening the four nuts that secure the final drive to the swing arm. From there it’s sort of impossible to do anything wrong at least until you have all the parts on.

When the wheel is on and you rotate the caliper plate in place and get that spacer in so the axle can be inserted you are ready for the critical part.

Install the caliper plate pin and finger tighten the axle nut. Make sure the tire is not touching the ground and the right shock is not attached to the final drive. And the four nuts are loose.

Now torque the axle nut to 81 and immediately torque the four nuts to 47. Now install the shock and bags and you should be done.

I can't get the frickin axle in. Raise, lower, raise, lower........

[mello dude]

There is definitely wear noticeable on Britmans splines. However, I have seen much worse. There are many miles and years of service left in there as long as they are lubed and installed properly

Really? I give you have the experience.... for me its a set aside...

[Chrisj CMA]

Britman. Start by loosening the four nuts that secure the final drive to the swing arm. From there it’s sort of impossible to do anything wrong at least until you have all the parts on.

When the wheel is on and you rotate the caliper plate in place and get that spacer in so the axle can be inserted you are ready for the critical part.

Install the caliper plate pin and finger tighten the axle nut. Make sure the tire is not touching the ground and the right shock is not attached to the final drive. And the four nuts are loose.

Now torque the axle nut to 81 and immediately torque the four nuts to 47. Now install the shock and bags and you should be done.

I can't get the frickin axle in. Raise, lower, raise, lower........

Walk away. Take a few deep breaths. Keep the bike up on the lift with the tire not touching the ground. Be gentle and stay calm. It will go. You may have to move the wheel a little as you change the angle of the axle initially until it starts in.

If you didn’t loosen the four bolts on the drive your job to put it back together is harder.

[hubcapsc]

I can't get the frickin axle in. Raise, lower, raise, lower........

I take my shocks off when I remove the wheel, do you?

I hardly lift my bike, just enough to get the wheel off the ground, and remove the
rear fender section.

I "replace" the left shock with a turnbuckle.



When it is time to put the axle back in, I can adjust the turnbuckle to "the right place"
and roll the wheel in place with the axle holes in the wheel and in the swingarm
lined up to slide in the axle... no need for three hands or Arnold Schwarzenegger's
arms...

Prior to that I can use the turnbuckle to lift the swingarm up real high so that
the driveshaft slides back in easy...

-Mike "I like the turnbuckle..."

[mello dude]

Another tid bit.. if you have a 2nd axle available, its helpful to get the wheel aligned straight. Then tap the  Valk axle gradually across so the spare axle will fall out.




The turnbuckle idea is great.... along the same lines... I think Chris suggested to make a strap support like the photo.. .it really helped too...

[..]

Has anyone got Daniel's write up?

[The emperor has no clothes]

Has anyone got Daniel's write up?

I don't, but will this link to Jeff's write up help ?
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx


Up at the top of your page, next to the date. There is a little box with an arrow in it. I think you might have clicked that, hiding what you are looking for.

[..]

What a difference 6 pints of water and a good nights sleep makes.

Yesterday I did a couple of hours yard work before the splines inspection.

I think I was getting dehydrated.

Walked into the garage this morning.

Raised the bike. Slipped the axle in. Attached the brake caliper which has been a PITA previously.

Tightened everything that needed to be including THOSE 4 bolts.

Test rode it and all seems to be well.

Thanks for the replies, PM's and emails.

[..]

Forgot to mention that after I had a shower at about 5 I crashed for nearly 2 hours. Slept like a log and had bike dreams.

[RonW]

fmi, what's the spacing in inches, center-to-center? I wasn't able to find it in chrisj' write up.

[Chrisj CMA]

fmi, what's the spacing in inches, center-to-center? I wasn't able to find it in chrisj' write up.

10” center to center should do you fine

[Valkpilot]

Britman's have some wear, but will probably provide service if well lubed and properly re-assembled.

mellodude, your look new.

[..]

Britman's have some wear, but will probably provide service if well lubed and properly re-assembled.

mellodude, your look new.

Fingers crossed

[RonW]

10” center to center should do you fine

thanks!

[Gizmo]

I've found that a tie down strap over the bike (seat off) and under the swing arm has worked perfectly for me during 5 rear wheel removals. Gives me the flexibility I need.
Can't recall where I first saw it but it could have been on this board somewhere.

[mello dude]

fmi, what's the spacing in inches, center-to-center? I wasn't able to find it in chrisj' write up.

I used 12 inch - although I dont know if that would work out if the pipes are on...


Other tidbits... I used a ATV jack on the bike with the home made wood holder thing and then at the rear, I used a scissors jack for a millimeter adjustment for height, super helpful to get things lined up.  

[Chrisj CMA]

for me I would replace.. new is $165, not bad.. .

Maybe for the flange but you have to replace the female splines in the drive too. That’s the expensive part.

[mello dude]

Britman's have some wear, but will probably provide service if well lubed and properly re-assembled.

mellodude, your look new.

My bike has 20k on it..... I hear you guys, your experience... 
..- Just for reference --coming from personal taste.. lots of years wrenching and for work I'm a automotive engineer... My OCD talking, for me I couldnt bring myself to use it .. new is $165, not bad..

btw - No disrespect intended for anybody...

[mello dude]

for me I would replace.. new is $165, not bad.. .

Maybe for the flange but you have to replace the female splines in the drive too. That’s the expensive part.

Agree with that - they would need inspection too... It does get expensive fast, dont it..

[hubcapsc]

for me I would replace.. new is $165, not bad.. .

Maybe for the flange but you have to replace the female splines in the drive too. That’s the expensive part.

Agree with that - they would need inspection too... It does get expensive fast, dont it..

The flange and the ring gear wear together, inspection would be almost superfluous.
There are no new final drives available, rebuilding or finding a perfect new one are
the only options. I'd choose to smear on some more moly and go another 60,000
miles on Britman's  ...

-Mike

[RonW]

I used 12 inch - although I dont know if that would work out if the pipes are on...

Thanks, about anything beats the strap method. Nice wood lift adapter.

[Gizmo]

Thanks, about anything beats the strap method. Nice wood lift adapter.

Can you say why you don't like the strap method? I have found it simple and effective, but if there's something that you think might bite me, I'd like to know.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thanks, about anything beats the strap method. Nice wood lift adapter.

Can you say why you don't like the strap method? I have found it simple and effective, but if there's something that you think might bite me, I'd like to know.

I like the strap method also. Not the ratchet kind, but cam buckle kind . Quick and infinitely adjustable. 

[Valkpilot]

I like the strap method also. Not the ratchet kind, but cam buckle kind . Quick and infinitely adjustable.  

+1

[mello dude]

Thanks, about anything beats the strap method. Nice wood lift adapter.

Can you say why you don't like the strap method? I have found it simple and effective, but if there's something that you think might bite me, I'd like to know.

Probably just a personal taste thing... I am kinda fumbly with straps too, rather not mess with them.

The classic saying of theres always more than one way to skin a cat applys here...  

[Gizmo]

Probably just a personal taste thing... I am kinda fumbly with straps too, rather not mess with them.
The classic saying of theres always more than one way to skin a cat applys here...  
[/quote]

Yeah, they can get in the way sometimes.
I have a bright lime green cam buckle one cut down to size so I can always see it and no long trailing strap so I don't trip over it 
Probably time to renew it soon...boy does that moly paste turn everything black really quick!

[Bagger John - #3785]

I'd keep those splines lubed/moly'ed, ride and inspect semi-regularly.

Then save your nickels up for a new driven flange and drive flange set. Or salvage the final-drive side from a 'Wing ring gear as others have mentioned.

We once did a rear-end inspection on a Standard owned by 'Yeah, JustDale' at an Ohio VRCC Tech Session. Dale indicated that the bike's final drive area had been serviced during its latest tire change. Something told me to go diving into yon rear end, and when we got the assembly off the bike I found that his drive splines were basically powdered rust. Mind you, this tire change was VERY recent. (There's no way the shop should have let the thing out the door in its current shape without a call to the owner.)

Luckily, Ike had a spare final drive unit w/ good splines plus another drive flange - so we were able to get the bike back on the road and get Dale home.

Britman's splines are in a lot better shape, FWIW.

[RonW]

Can you say why you don't like the strap method? I have found it simple and effective, but if there's something that you think might bite me, I'd like to know.

I use a ratchet strap. It's hard to crank it to pull up the swingarm. Might have to do with where the ratchet is positioned over the frame. Or, sumpthin.

Perhaps, I should use a more hefty ratchet strap?

[The emperor has no clothes]

Can you say why you don't like the strap method? I have found it simple and effective, but if there's something that you think might bite me, I'd like to know.

I use a ratchet strap. It's hard to crank it to pull up the swingarm. Might have to do with where the ratchet is positioned over the frame. Or, sumpthin.

Perhaps, I should use a more hefty ratchet strap?

I wrap the hook around the swing arm itself and back on to the strap. I’d be worried about that hook getting wedged and breaking the aluminum mount area.

[Chrisj CMA]

Can you say why you don't like the strap method? I have found it simple and effective, but if there's something that you think might bite me, I'd like to know.

I use a ratchet strap. It's hard to crank it to pull up the swingarm. Might have to do with where the ratchet is positioned over the frame. Or, sumpthin.

Perhaps, I should use a more hefty ratchet strap?

I wrap the hook around the swing arm itself and back on to the strap. I’d be worried about that hook getting wedged and breaking the aluminum mount area.

It’s not ideal to strap to the final drive since you are going to remove the drive. Also you would have to take that strap off during final drive alignment. So it just makes no sense to connect there