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Jruby38
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« on: October 03, 2019, 12:34:40 PM » |
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I don't think my clutch lever is disengaging all the way. It used to start to engage about have way up, now it's right at the handle bar. Also it is hard to move the foot shift lever and find neutral when stopped and wants to creep sometimes with the lever pulled in. I changed oil a bunch, replaced and bled the clutch cylinder and slave under the bike with no improvement. The clutch does not slip , but do you think it should be replaced?
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2019, 12:45:21 PM » |
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Sounds like the master cylinder is not pushing the pressure it should
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16774
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2019, 12:52:29 PM » |
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Is your clutch lever floppy? Mine's nice now. When the bushing wears out and the lever gets floppy your bike has a hard time knowing, electrically, if it is in neutral... messes with your neutral light. Also, there's a rubber boot in there that protects your master cylinder from dirt where the pushrod engages it... If you have to fool with your master cylinder, and your lever is floppy, it is well worth getting a new bushing and boot... http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,108109.0.html-Mike |
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Jruby38
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« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2019, 04:03:22 PM » |
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I wanted to buy a master cylinder from Pinwall, but they said they only had the Interstates and they wont work on my standard.
Something is wrong because the bike shifted like butter for 19 years and this problem had been getting worse and worse in the last two.
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Valker
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Posts: 2995
Wahoo!!!!
Texas Panhandle
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« Reply #4 on: October 03, 2019, 04:16:15 PM » |
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I wanted to buy a master cylinder from Pinwall, but they said they only had the Interstates and they wont work on my standard.
Something is wrong because the bike shifted like butter for 19 years and this problem had been getting worse and worse in the last two.
Sounds like the rivets sheared off in the pressure plate. If it starts to smoke terribly, that's it for sure. By smoke terribly, I mean like a WWII destroyer laying down a screen. New master cylinders are pretty cheap (<$75 IIRC). |
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I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2019, 04:17:48 PM » |
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You can get a rebuild kit for your M/C
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2019, 04:50:01 PM » |
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I wanted to buy a master cylinder from Pinwall, but they said they only had the Interstates and they wont work on my standard.
Something is wrong because the bike shifted like butter for 19 years and this problem had been getting worse and worse in the last two.
Sounds like the rivets sheared off in the pressure plate. If it starts to smoke terribly, that's it for sure. By smoke terribly, I mean like a WWII destroyer laying down a screen. New master cylinders are pretty cheap (<$75 IIRC). My symptoms of sheared rivets were much different. Sounds to me like a master cylinder rebuild kit and a slave cylinder rebuild kit are in order. |
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16774
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #7 on: October 03, 2019, 05:08:47 PM » |
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I wanted to buy a master cylinder from Pinwall, but they said they only had the Interstates and they wont work on my standard.
Something is wrong because the bike shifted like butter for 19 years and this problem had been getting worse and worse in the last two.
The difference between the Interstate and the STD/Tourer seems like it might just be the bar clamp... the little F-4 inset thing...  I put a rebuild kit on my brake side a few years ago, it wasn't complex. -Mike |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #8 on: October 04, 2019, 04:35:24 AM » |
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I would not discount the possibility that in bleeding the system you are still leaving some air in the line.
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Jruby38
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« Reply #9 on: October 04, 2019, 12:05:16 PM » |
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I agree with you Ricky. I will try bleeding it more. I replaced the slave with a used low low mileage one from Pinwall, and rebuilt the master cylinder. New lever and bushings too, at first symptoms 2 years ago. It was better but not as good as new. Now it 's bad again.
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indybobm
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« Reply #10 on: October 04, 2019, 12:39:01 PM » |
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Common area for trapped air is at the banjo joint at the end of the master cylinder.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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klb
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« Reply #11 on: October 04, 2019, 04:59:35 PM » |
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I had the same problem and couldn't get it bled good. Bought a Mighty Vac and had it fixed in just a few minutes.
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redripper
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« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2019, 05:55:56 PM » |
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I was changing the fluid and upon the process the clutch lever went limp. No resistance at all as was bleeding the clutch. Found the return spring in the master cylinder broken in three pieces. Worked ok before. Go figure?? Replaced with a kit solved issue.
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Jruby38
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« Reply #13 on: October 07, 2019, 12:58:13 PM » |
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I think the master cylinder is possibly worn out. I have a new one on the way, only 80 dollars. Take a shot, Christopher Columbus took a one.
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Jruby38
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« Reply #14 on: October 10, 2019, 02:44:55 PM » |
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I installed and bleed a new OEM clutch cylinder and the bike will still creeps in first with the lever depressed. I guess its time for a new clutch.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #15 on: October 10, 2019, 02:50:40 PM » |
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I installed and bleed a new OEM clutch cylinder and the bike will still creeps in first with the lever depressed. I guess its time for a new clutch.
Did you rebuild or replace the slave cylinder also ? |
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Jruby38
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« Reply #16 on: October 10, 2019, 04:37:26 PM » |
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Brand new.
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3W-lonerider
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« Reply #17 on: October 11, 2019, 06:10:15 AM » |
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Did you check the brass bushing that pushes the pin in the master cyl. To make sure it isn't worn out. If the hole is deeper than it should be then your not getting total clutch disengagement.
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #18 on: October 11, 2019, 11:01:42 AM » |
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I installed and bleed a new OEM clutch cylinder and the bike will still creeps in first with the lever depressed. I guess its time for a new clutch.
Not yet. The creeping indicates less than total clutch disengagement. Air in the system would still be the most common reason for your problem. If you can feel any kind of free play when pulling in the clutch lever, well, that there is an indication you have a problem. You should be able to feel the clutch springs resistance immediately when pulling the lever. Some of the reasons you cannot feel the clutch springs immediately when pulling the lever are: 1) Air in the system 2) Worn out master cylinder, parts, seals, piston 3) Worn out lever, pivot hole, bushing 4) Slave cylinder worn out, seals, piston, push pin. Did I mention air in the system? I think you are failing to completely rid the system of air. The smallest bubble of air can be difficult to get rid of, but cause the biggest problem. *** |
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Jruby38
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« Reply #19 on: October 11, 2019, 12:14:30 PM » |
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Thanks Ricky D. The new master cylinder came with a new brass bushing. Just had to swap the mirror and the lever which almost new. I took it to the Honda dealer said there should be a little free play at the top with I have now. The tech said the leather streamer on the lever might not let the lever go all the way to the bar to disengage so I removed with no change, they had been on for more than 15 years and 100k miles.
I bleed from the bottom slave with a horse syringe till no more bubbles were visible in the top. I will try to bleed it some more, but am leaning to a clutch replacement this winter.
Its nice to ride a cool old bike, but am not going to beat a dead iron horse. I will buy a new BMW twin adventure touring bike for the less weight.
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