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Author Topic: electrical maintenance  (Read 1805 times)
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« on: October 03, 2019, 03:42:32 PM »

I haven't made any more "maintenance" posts in about a week. I had to work was lucky
enough to still be needed at work last Thursday and Friday. On Saturday I started trying to figure
out how to rewire my accessories... I've always used the void in front of the battery for
all the wires and relays that need added, but it is very cramped there and hard to
add circuits or any other stuff... I use a PDM60 programmable circuit breaker instead
of a fuse block, here's how I installed it five or six years ago when I got it...



I disconnected and labeled all the wires for all the circuits... BigBF quad horns, Motolights, Cobra
lights and heated gear... plus I added a new circuit to run the BFGPS. I struggled to decide how
to set everything up, I wanted it to be slick and neat like some setups people have
posted here. I gave up pretty quickly on putting everything behind the side cover, that seemed
just too cramped. I really wanted to install the PDM60 like you see it here, but that would have
meant having a ton of visible wires having to somehow disappear behind the center covers,
so I gave up on that...



The casings on the cheap relays I had been using just pulled apart when I pulled the connectors
off the spades, I hope the new ones I got (for $20 each!) are better. I never mess with relays
unless I print out the Rattlebars relay picture  cooldude ...



I needed a good ground bus, so I made one, it works, I hope it is good  Smiley ... I plasti-dipped
it after it was assembled.



I finally gave up on not using the manual slot and tool bag area... I put the ground bus down
in the manual slot along with the two relays, and put the PDM60 in the tool area along with
my new waterproof USB receptacle... I have a 6 foot kevlar USB cable that stretches back
to the handlebars. I had to remove the PDM60 numerous times before I remembered how to
program it correctly, so my goal of having an accessible harness was met, even if it is not "neat"
like I wanted it to be. The PDM60 is not hard to program, but it needs windows, so I had to
drag out an old windows laptop and remember stuff like "what COM port is associated with
the PDM60 when it is hooked up via the USB programming cable"...



Next I moved on to the alternator... the Log Truck has 98,500 miles on it now and I've never
looked at the alternator, I feel like I'm riding on borrowed time and risking messing up a ride
if it goes out while I'm riding with a group. I ebayed this nice looking alternator  from a low
mileage bike for $40 or $50 a few years ago.



Here's my old alternator. I'll send it to the MARS guy if he is still around.



Back when alternator covers quintupled in price I ebayed a good one for about $30 before
used ones went up too... my alternator cover has begun to wrinkle, so I decided it was
time to match up the nice looking alternator with a nice cover...



My theory is that flexing the cover while removing it from the metal bracket leads to
the chrome failing... my "new" cover came still on the bracket, so I haven't flexed it.

Getting the old alternator out and new one in went pretty easily. I removed the center cover
bolts so I could move it up out of the way, and moved the ground wire, tank vent tube and
coolant overflow tube out of the way and moving the alternator up and back did the trick
without much trouble.



What was REALLY hard for me was loosening the alternator from the pins in the holes where
it mounts to the engine... when I helped Stanley Steamer a few years ago, I think we
just bonked the old alternator a few time with a rubber mallet and it was loose. On mine
I resorted to banging in some wooden carpenter's wedges and progressed to a plastic
wedge before it came loose. I got the plastic wedge from a kit of plastic "car interior" tools
that people use when they take the interior lining off their car doors so they can
fix something inside the door... I'm keeping it in my tool box as a Valkyrie special
tool...



I fished a few other ebayed items out and installed them... the little holder-downers on the
smog caps are no longer available, but I got several good ones recently...



The thing your headlight mounts on if you have a Standard or a Tourer is no longer available,
but I got a good one of them recently too...



I got started putting my tins back on, but stopped after just the rear fender. It has been
95 or so (96 today) every day for the last few weeks and I'm about over it. I'll go into work
tomorrow (95 again) and finish up (I hope) on Saturday - it will only be 71 on Saturday  Shocked ...
It will probably be snowing or something in two weeks for the Fall Color Ride  2funny ...

We haven't had any rain to speak of the whole month of September... prior to that, all through
the winter and all through the spring and summer, we had plenty of glorious rain, and the
most bountiful muscadine season I've EVER seen... check this out, these are wild muscadines
not those awful cultivated ones you get in the supermarket... September's lack of rain
caused all the leaves to fall off the vines...



It breaks my heart that not even I could eat that many muscadines, so tons of them are already
shriveling up and dropping to the ground  Cry ...

I hope to test out the Log Truck Saturday and find that everything works!

-Mike
« Last Edit: October 03, 2019, 03:50:29 PM by hubcapsc » Logged

..
Member
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2019, 04:31:50 PM »

Falling back in lurve with the Log Truck.  cooldude

You'll  be selling the cat catcher next.  Roll Eyes
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #2 on: October 03, 2019, 04:47:19 PM »

Nice work Mike  cooldude My alt covers were crinkling after just 20k or so. After going thru a couple of the ones we got cheap a few years back, my inventory was dwindling quickly. On my last one I put some heat insulation tape on the inside of it. 30k and it still looks pristine. I got a small amount at an auto store similar to this :
https://www.amazon.com/Heatshield-Products-340020-Thermaflect-Shield/dp/B000QFN3DU
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2019, 04:49:59 PM »

Falling back in lurve with the Log Truck.  cooldude

Gotta keep it up or it will really turn into a Log Truck!

You'll  be selling the cat catcher next.  Roll Eyes

I rode a really nice Indian Springfield the other day. The
cat catcher has nothing to worry about...

-Mike "I don't know what will happen when you can get a Motus for $15,000"
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2019, 05:12:18 AM »


On my last one I put some heat insulation tape

That's probably a good idea, I'll try it if my "new" one doesn't last...

-Mike
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2019, 05:09:47 AM »


I finally cranked my bike this morning... I had a multimeter on the battery leads,
the battery is well charged, but when I rev the engine, the multimeter doesn't go
up a volt or two like I thought it should... I hope my shiny "new" alternator works...
I look around more after Church...

-Mike
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The emperor has no clothes
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Posts: 29945


« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2019, 06:58:03 AM »


I finally cranked my bike this morning... I had a multimeter on the battery leads,
the battery is well charged, but when I rev the engine, the multimeter doesn't go
up a volt or two like I thought it should... I hope my shiny "new" alternator works...
I look around more after Church...

-Mike
You probably already have, but just in case. Check the dog bone fuse.
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gordonv
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Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #7 on: October 06, 2019, 10:11:10 AM »

when I rev the engine, the multimeter doesn't go
up a volt or two like I thought it should... I hope my shiny "new" alternator works...

Now that you verified the alt isn't getting power to the battery, you need to check the alternator for power. Like mentioned, the input to the battery, the alt side of the dog bone fuse. Then the other side of the fuse if there's power coming from the alt.


I installed my new/repaired alternator last weekend. Upon start up, I had no power. Pissed, so I walked away. Came back Tues night, and removed the alt again (might be about 20x now this year), and found the light wires broken from the alt. No power going to the alt, means it isn't energizing to be able to produce voltage to the battery. Spend 2 hrs yesterday and replaced the OEM leads with the new one that came with the alt, removing the battery box to get to the main wire harness and connector. Replaced everything, alt, and then started it up again. 2 sec later I had 13.8V on my meter.  cooldude
« Last Edit: October 06, 2019, 10:27:31 AM by gordonv » Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #8 on: October 06, 2019, 10:43:57 AM »


Thanks for the tips... my alternator fuse is blown, I just ordered more. The same fuse
is in a whole bunch of Hondas, so a local place might have them, but motorcycle stores
close on Monday, so Partzilla might get my fuses to me quickest.

and found the light wires broken from the alt.

There's the heavy power cable that hooks onto the alternator on a stud with a bolt,
and there's the little wire assembly that plugs into the alternator and disappears
off into the harness-mess in front of the battery box... I guess this is the one you
found to be broken? My "new" alternator came with a nice looking one of those, but fishing
the other end out from in front of the battery box convinced me to just reuse
the old one... If I decide to replace it, I'll have to take the alternator back out and
fiddle with all those wires in front of the battery box. I have a pinwall battery box
here, it "kind of" demystifies what's going on there... just looking at it while it is
installed on the bike it just looks like a convoluted mess to me...

I'll test for power on both sides of the fuse if a new fuse doesn't fix the problem.

I still need to flush the coolant, change the oil and polish the tins (and who knows what else Smiley )
so I'm not stuck twiddling my thumbs...

-Mike
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indybobm
Member
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Posts: 1600

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #9 on: October 06, 2019, 11:50:41 AM »

If this is the dogbone fuse, there is usually an extra one in the fuse cover.
« Last Edit: October 06, 2019, 03:56:58 PM by indybobm » Logged

So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #10 on: October 06, 2019, 03:12:11 PM »

If this is the dog one fuse, there is usually an extra one in the fuse cover.

My hero  smitten

So I replaced the fuse. My multimeter reads more when the bike is running than
when it is not, but it doesn't do like I expect... the way the 1800 does. The Log
Truck has never (in the times I've tested it, which are not too many) done like
I expected. I've had a lithium ion battery (Autocraft lfp-4) in the Log Truck since
December of 2014, maybe that has nothing to do with it. I changed the oil and
flushed the radiator, I'll bolt on the rest of the tins tomorrow and hopefully
ride it some... if it keeps going and the battery stays charged, Bob's your uncle  cooldude

-Mike
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indybobm
Member
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Posts: 1600

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #11 on: October 06, 2019, 03:59:35 PM »

Hopefully everything is ok. I would put a spare fuse in the for (hopefully not) next time.
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #12 on: October 06, 2019, 04:07:47 PM »

Hopefully everything is ok. I would put a spare fuse in the for (hopefully not) next time.

I'll have a few extra when they get here from Partzilla... I'll definitely
add one back to the spare slot in the fuse holder...

-Mike
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..
Member
*****
Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #13 on: October 06, 2019, 04:12:30 PM »

Hopefully everything is ok. I would put a spare fuse in the for (hopefully not) next time.

I'll have a few extra when they get here from Partzilla... I'll definitely
add one back to the spare slot in the fuse holder...

-Mike

For others reading this thread. You can get them at a Honda car dealer.

And crush washers.

And silicate free 50/50 anti freeze
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #14 on: October 06, 2019, 04:18:43 PM »

NAPA also carries them.
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #15 on: October 07, 2019, 01:02:15 PM »


I went on a ride... not as long as I'd wished, I ran into some problems...

My alternator is probably charging, I only went 25 or so miles, but my battery is still fully charged.

My neutral light, which was working, quit.

My tachometer, which was working, quit.

My tail light (not brake light) quit, I bet it is the fuse again.

My front left turn signal doesn't work, all the other do. The rear left turn signal flashes extra quick.
I noticed the turn signal first and stopped to get a new bulb. The new bulb doesn't flash when I
hit the left turn signal switch, but stays on when I switch the signals off.

Perhaps I'll find blown fuses for the tach and neutral light circuits, I'll have to trace them down. A
short somewhere, I guess, could be making fuses blow and be the main problem.

The wiring I have added for my accessories doesn't touch the factory wiring at all, except
to use the accessory lead under the right side cover as an ignition trigger for my PDM60
circuit breaker - I hope that means my wiring is not part of the problem.

I had to take the Cobra light bar off (my front turn signals are in the Cobra light bar) to take
my forks off, I guess I'll have to tear into the wiring in the left one to see if I pulled something loose
there.

Before I started all this maintenance, the tail light had gone out and the neutral light
had stopped working - that was what made me decide I needed to go ahead and do all
this maintenace... it is one thing to think "I need to change my air filter, check my petcock
and rebuild my forks one day soon" and another thing to have stuff that other people notice
stop working  Wink ... since the neutral light had started working again, I figured I'd fixed it when
I did the clutch-lever maintenance, but I guess not...

-Mike
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #16 on: October 07, 2019, 03:15:51 PM »


The front left turn signal wires were totally disconnected in the headlight bucket. The
naked bullet connector being able to touch against the headlight bucket could
count for the short.

The tail light fuse was blown, when I replaced it the neutral light started working,
so they are associated.

After I fixed the turn signal by plugging it's wires back up, I cranked the bike and
the tach was working again.

If the loose turn signal connection was the short that has been causing the tail light fuse to
blow, perhaps I'm fixed.

-Mike "I guess I'll have to go ride again tomorrow and find out"
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #17 on: October 08, 2019, 06:24:24 AM »


Phooey... I only fixed the turn signal. I'll go back out and search for some kind of short
associated with the tail light, or the neutral light or the tachometer...

I'm not experienced in tracing down electrical problems, so if anyone
wants to post advice or suggestions, keep 'em clean  Wink ...

-Mike
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indybobm
Member
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Posts: 1600

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #18 on: October 08, 2019, 03:23:09 PM »

Didn't you have taillight problems some time ago?
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VRCC # 5258
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #19 on: October 08, 2019, 04:01:52 PM »

Didn't you have taillight problems some time ago?

This is that problem, I only changed out the fuse to fix it, it was the first thing I did a
month  Shocked ago when I started this maintenance shot. It is only in the last few
days that I have realized the tail light problem is also the neutral light problem and
the tachometer doesn't work either...

I tore back into the rear fender wires today, the relevant wires (or circuit, I guess) for
the tail light are green and brown. As soon as they pass through the first connector,
it is green and brown with a white line. For whatever reason the brown/white wire
turns other colors before it gets to the fuse box or the tachometer or the neutral
light, but I pulled all that apart too. Found no problem anywhere. The wiring diagram
in the manual shows the green brown/white circuit goes other places too, including
the light in the speedometer. While checking the speedo and the tach, I put new
LED bulbs in there. The speedo light bulb was burned out, it hasn't worked in ages.
The new LED bulb in the speedo didn't work either. So I checked closer, there's
a green brown-white sub-harness that goes from the speedo bulb into the
headlight bucket. Along the way it was pinched flatter than a pancake under
the windshield bracket...



The little sub-harness is plenty long enough that I just cut out the bad part and soldered
it back together. I rode up and down the paved road out past the driveway and everything
kept working. So I put on my gear and went for a good 20 mile or so ride, still everything
works. And now that I wasn't thinking about the turn signals or tachometer or neutral
light, I was thinking about how awesome the brakes and forks are and how
nice and crisp the clutch lever is  cooldude ... I'll have to ride it again a few times
before I believe I fixed it.

While I had the rear fender section off, I took the tail light off the fender so I could
look at the wires hidden in there. It was really dirty under there. I hope Jeff from
Florida has taken his tail light off the fender and cleaned under there  Grin ...

-Mike
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hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16773


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #20 on: October 09, 2019, 08:59:24 AM »


Thirty more miles down bumpy curvy roads, everything still works  cooldude

Shifts nice... I like the sound of the new piggies + triple tips...

-Mike
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